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rtsteed
Sep 12, 2011, 1:15 AM
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Like many others I starting climbing at a gym and then moved outdoors into the outdoors. Since the transition two years ago I have not taken a lead fall. I am a rookie who is starting to transition to trad climbing and I am wondering if me not falling has caused me to not push myself. while placing pro I get nervous once I get above the pro. but I constantly stay on routes I know I can handle. Will this come back to bite me in the butt?
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DougMartin
Sep 12, 2011, 1:42 AM
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rtsteed wrote: Like many others I starting climbing at a gym and then moved outdoors into the outdoors. Since the transition two years ago I have not taken a lead fall. I am a rookie who is starting to transition to trad climbing and I am wondering if me not falling has caused me to not push myself. while placing pro I get nervous once I get above the pro. but I constantly stay on routes I know I can handle. Will this come back to bite me in the butt? As long as you are staying on routes that you don't fall how would it bite you in the butt? If your climbing 5.2 or so then I say grow a set and get out there! If your out there in the 10's or better IMO you have every right to be wired above your pro as a lead fall sucks! There is no grab a rock and pull your self back in to where you fell off, you have to climb your butt back up, if you can even get back to the rock face to begin with. Some would say that falling is part of the sport we love, and something you must not be afraid of, and I agree with them. However falling is not the intended outcome of a climb! If the fear of falling is keeping you down then fall a few times on purpose (sport climbing is great for learning how to fall that's all they do) but if that fear is just keeping you focused on your climbing then its doing its job! Just remember no matter how easy or hard you climb your gonna fall sometime! Its best to know what it feel like before it happens unexpectedly that way the fall itself doesn't freeze you up the rest of the day!
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TarHeelEMT
Sep 12, 2011, 2:48 AM
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It'll come.
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wonderwoman
Sep 12, 2011, 4:01 PM
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Someday, you will take a lead fall. You may not even see it coming. On trad, make sure you know your gear placements and do a ton of groundwork before you get on anything challenging enough that you might take a fall. Also, think about the consequences of the fall and never allow the rope to get behind your leg because you might flip upside down and smack your head. I learned that lesson the hard way.
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robx
Sep 12, 2011, 4:36 PM
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I feel like clean/safe falling is something you can only learn through doing. it might be worth your time to take a couple falls on bolts. Find a route out of your comfort rating, but with a very safe fall area and push yourself. It might also help your comfort level as your transition. That being said, there are absolutely places you shouldn't fall.
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Mariofercol
Sep 12, 2011, 4:54 PM
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Well if you want to continue with climbs that you are familiar and that are in your comfort zone the chances of you falling are low. Now, do you want to climb harder stuff, do you want to push it, then you are going to fall. Your comfort zone is not only limited by your physical ability, but mostly by your mental strength. I've seen plenty of gym rats, very athletic and muscly, who will not dare to lead anything outdoors.
(This post was edited by Mariofercol on Sep 12, 2011, 5:01 PM)
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zealotnoob
Sep 12, 2011, 4:58 PM
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If you're not flying, you're not trying. Which may be fine for you, but, if you want to progress through the grades, you're going to hit a serious wall. For me it was around 5.10+. And you won't be able to break through until you get comfortable taking the whip. Getting comfortable doesn't mean being stupid. It's about taking ownership of the consequences. Some falls are safe, others dangerous. You can read about it a book and make a good guess, but you'll never know until you log some air and ingrain the experience (though you better have guessed right). Take some backed up practice falls to test your falling technique (see: Arno Ilgner and the Rock Warrior's Way). Identify harder climbs with great gear and clean falls, and commit. Sport climbing helps too. Take it in small, manageable steps. Good luck.
(This post was edited by zealotnoob on Sep 12, 2011, 6:03 PM)
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tolman_paul
Sep 12, 2011, 5:21 PM
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Two points. 1) Just because you are belayed with a rope and have placed gear doesn't mean falling is without hazards. There are places on many climbs where falling isn't a good idea, so making a habbit of falling isn't always a good plan. 2) As others have said, you'll likely find that to push the grades, you are going to end up falling.
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njrox
Sep 12, 2011, 5:29 PM
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I haven't lead yet. I'm pretty nervous about taking a fall on gear (not a lot of sport routes here in NJ). But, I suppose before I even try a lead climb I ought to set up a fall on gear just so I'm not freaking out at what to expect.
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wonderwoman
Sep 12, 2011, 5:53 PM
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njrox wrote: I haven't lead yet. I'm pretty nervous about taking a fall on gear (not a lot of sport routes here in NJ). But, I suppose before I even try a lead climb I ought to set up a fall on gear just so I'm not freaking out at what to expect. You can easily simulate a lead fall on top rope. Just have your partner lock off and proceed to climb a little further. Rock Warrior's Way has some good practice exercises in the back of the book. I wouldn't recommend taking practice falls on gear if you're new. Just keep on getting mileage on easier stuff and do the groundwork so you have confidence in your gear. If you do take some practice falls in a controlled environment, make damn sure that your partner is experienced and capable of catching you. You don't want experimental catches with your experimental falls on your experimental gear.
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njrox
Sep 12, 2011, 6:14 PM
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The lock-off on Top Rope actually sounds like a really good idea.
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Mariofercol
Sep 12, 2011, 6:27 PM
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njrox wrote: I haven't lead yet. I'm pretty nervous about taking a fall on gear (not a lot of sport routes here in NJ). But, I suppose before I even try a lead climb I ought to set up a fall on gear just so I'm not freaking out at what to expect. I would suggest try taking lead falls in the gym. You do not want to submit your gear to unnecessary wearing. I would never try lead falls on gear. I place my pieces and pry that I won't have to test them. The few times that I've fallen in gear they have hold, and I'm thankful for that, but I won't push my luck just to see if they hold.
(This post was edited by Mariofercol on Sep 12, 2011, 6:28 PM)
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njrox
Sep 12, 2011, 6:35 PM
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Mariofercol wrote: I would suggest try taking lead falls in the gym. You do not want to submit your gear to unnecessary wearing. I would never try lead falls on gear. I place my pieces and pry that I won't have to test them. The few times that I've fallen in gear they have hold, and I'm thankful for that, but I won't push my luck just to see if they hold. Good point. It's not something to play around with. I do place gear for TR anchors. Having 4-5 cams/nuts above is a lot easier on the mind than a peice here and there below my feet. More of a mental strain with regards to trusting that one peice below to catch a fall and wanting to climb higher.
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tH1e-swiN1e
Sep 12, 2011, 7:50 PM
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If youre not falling, youre not climbing hard enough. /thread
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rangerrob
Sep 12, 2011, 11:29 PM
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I've taken a crapload of falls on gear. I'm known as the flight master in my climbing circle. That being said, i didnl;t just start climbing and falling right away. It was two or three years of climbing a shitload of easy routes, placing tons of gear, and having it inspected by very competent climbers before I pushed myself hard enough to start falling. I hit my wall at around 5.10b. Also, as someone has previously mentioned, always pay attention to where that rope is with respect to your legs. taking the extra second to get it out from behind your leg is well worth the energy burned. Falling with the rope wrapped around your leg is a sure way to f*** yourself up. Stay alert, keep the rope clear all the time, and just slowly start pushing the grade. Eventually you will find your lead limit.
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hugepedro
Sep 13, 2011, 4:16 AM
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njrox wrote: Mariofercol wrote: I would suggest try taking lead falls in the gym. You do not want to submit your gear to unnecessary wearing. I would never try lead falls on gear. I place my pieces and pry that I won't have to test them. The few times that I've fallen in gear they have hold, and I'm thankful for that, but I won't push my luck just to see if they hold. Good point. Not really.
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hugepedro
Sep 13, 2011, 4:31 AM
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rtsteed wrote: Like many others I starting climbing at a gym and then moved outdoors into the outdoors. Since the transition two years ago I have not taken a lead fall. I am a rookie who is starting to transition to trad climbing and I am wondering if me not falling has caused me to not push myself. while placing pro I get nervous once I get above the pro. but I constantly stay on routes I know I can handle. Will this come back to bite me in the butt? Place a couple pieces before cruxes. Equalize them if it makes you feel better. Then see how your comfort level increases. Not a bad practice anyway in situations of greater fall risk.
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jacques
Sep 13, 2011, 4:52 AM
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rtsteed wrote: . while placing pro I get nervous once I get above the pro. but I constantly stay on routes I know I can handle. Will this come back to bite me in the butt? The games is to reach the summit without falling or rest on th rope. Falling is an accident when you don't see or analyse the move. It is like a fire training, you always did it for one time. I save my life a couple of time with that mentality Learning and training safety most always be your major concern. Many climber learn how to do hard move and never think about what happen in a fall. worse, when they told them to place a pro because they are going to be in danger, they laught as if they can not be in danger
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jt512
Sep 13, 2011, 6:28 AM
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njrox wrote: Mariofercol wrote: I would suggest try taking lead falls in the gym. You do not want to submit your gear to unnecessary wearing. I would never try lead falls on gear. I place my pieces and pry that I won't have to test them. The few times that I've fallen in gear they have hold, and I'm thankful for that, but I won't push my luck just to see if they hold. Good point. It's not something to play around with. I do place gear for TR anchors. Having 4-5 cams/nuts above is a lot easier on the mind than a peice here and there below my feet. More of a mental strain with regards to trusting that one peice below to catch a fall and wanting to climb higher. You've never even led a climb. What the hell makes you think you're qualified to express an opinion on this issue? You know how sometimes people on the internet say "STFU, n00b"? Well, they mean you. Jay
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blueeyedclimber
Sep 13, 2011, 1:54 PM
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jt512 wrote: njrox wrote: Mariofercol wrote: I would suggest try taking lead falls in the gym. You do not want to submit your gear to unnecessary wearing. I would never try lead falls on gear. I place my pieces and pry that I won't have to test them. The few times that I've fallen in gear they have hold, and I'm thankful for that, but I won't push my luck just to see if they hold. Good point. It's not something to play around with. I do place gear for TR anchors. Having 4-5 cams/nuts above is a lot easier on the mind than a peice here and there below my feet. More of a mental strain with regards to trusting that one peice below to catch a fall and wanting to climb higher. You've never even led a climb. What the hell makes you think you're qualified to express an opinion on this issue? You know how sometimes people on the internet say "STFU, n00b"? Well, they mean you. Jay Jay, he wasn't giving advice. Sometimes a good 'ol STFU is warranted. Not in this case. Josh
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njrox
Sep 13, 2011, 1:59 PM
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jt512 wrote: njrox wrote: Mariofercol wrote: I would suggest try taking lead falls in the gym. You do not want to submit your gear to unnecessary wearing. I would never try lead falls on gear. I place my pieces and pry that I won't have to test them. The few times that I've fallen in gear they have hold, and I'm thankful for that, but I won't push my luck just to see if they hold. Good point. It's not something to play around with. I do place gear for TR anchors. Having 4-5 cams/nuts above is a lot easier on the mind than a peice here and there below my feet. More of a mental strain with regards to trusting that one peice below to catch a fall and wanting to climb higher. You've never even led a climb. What the hell makes you think you're qualified to express an opinion on this issue? You know how sometimes people on the internet say "STFU, n00b"? Well, they mean you. Jay Haha, I have no idea what "STFU, n00b"? means.
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ceebo
Sep 13, 2011, 3:09 PM
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Bombers aside problem is, how do you know what a good placement is?. I have been shown ''good'' placements from many people, yet when i ask them about their trad falls.. zero. It is hard to gain confidence in questionable placements shown by people who have never fell on them. Personally im like you, never fell in trad and tbh don't realy plan on it. I will only consider falls on a project where i know the placements are good (as in i have safe tested them). Onsight wise.. no fucking way.. im not that confident.
(This post was edited by ceebo on Sep 13, 2011, 3:11 PM)
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climbingtrash
Sep 13, 2011, 3:53 PM
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wo0! Falling on sport routes and falling on trad routes are two different things for the most part. Pushing yourself means falling, just don't push yourself on the wrong climb.
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tolman_paul
Sep 13, 2011, 4:38 PM
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ceebo wrote: Bombers aside problem is, how do you know what a good placement is?. I have been shown ''good'' placements from many people, yet when i ask them about their trad falls.. zero. It is hard to gain confidence in questionable placements shown by people who have never fell on them. Personally im like you, never fell in trad and tbh don't realy plan on it. I will only consider falls on a project where i know the placements are good (as in i have safe tested them). Onsight wise.. no fucking way.. im not that confident. With time you'll get a feeling for what qualifies as a good placement. There is something to be said for clean aid climbing, if it won't hold bodyweight, it certainly won't hold a fall. You just get a feel over time of when a chock is fully seated in a crack vs. hung up on a single crystal. With cams, you yearn what type of placements are solid, and which lead to the cam walking and some of the cams loosing contact with the rock. There is also much value in cleaning routes that have been lead by somebody who knows how to make good placements, and following routes by people who don't. You get to compare and contrast the placements. And sometimes the leader that knows how to make good placements will occasionaly make a bad one or two, because there are no options and a purely psychological placement near a crux or shortly before a better placement can be made has a value to the leader.
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jt512
Sep 13, 2011, 6:24 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote: jt512 wrote: njrox wrote: Mariofercol wrote: I would suggest try taking lead falls in the gym. You do not want to submit your gear to unnecessary wearing. I would never try lead falls on gear. I place my pieces and pry that I won't have to test them. The few times that I've fallen in gear they have hold, and I'm thankful for that, but I won't push my luck just to see if they hold. Good point. It's not something to play around with. I do place gear for TR anchors. Having 4-5 cams/nuts above is a lot easier on the mind than a peice here and there below my feet. More of a mental strain with regards to trusting that one peice below to catch a fall and wanting to climb higher. You've never even led a climb. What the hell makes you think you're qualified to express an opinion on this issue? You know how sometimes people on the internet say "STFU, n00b"? Well, they mean you. Jay Jay, he wasn't giving advice. Sometimes a good 'ol STFU is warranted. Not in this case. Josh In your opinion. I think it is always worth calling out ignorant foolishness. Jay
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jt512
Sep 13, 2011, 6:31 PM
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tolman_paul wrote: ceebo wrote: Bombers aside problem is, how do you know what a good placement is?. I have been shown ''good'' placements from many people, yet when i ask them about their trad falls.. zero. It is hard to gain confidence in questionable placements shown by people who have never fell on them. Personally im like you, never fell in trad and tbh don't realy plan on it. I will only consider falls on a project where i know the placements are good (as in i have safe tested them). Onsight wise.. no fucking way.. im not that confident. With time you'll get a feeling for what qualifies as a good placement. There is something to be said for clean aid climbing, if it won't hold bodyweight, it certainly won't hold a fall. You just get a feel over time of when a chock is fully seated in a crack vs. hung up on a single crystal. With cams, you yearn what type of placements are solid, and which lead to the cam walking and some of the cams loosing contact with the rock. This has nothing to do with "feelings." You can tell by visual inspection whether pro is good or not. You can see whether a nut is well seated of if it's hung up on crystal. Experience will tell you whether you can trust marginal placements. But either way, it's your brain that tells you whether a piece is good or not, not your "feelings." And clean aid will tell you a lot more about whether placements will hold just body weight, if you bounce test the pieces. Jay
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tolman_paul
Sep 13, 2011, 9:20 PM
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Panties wound a bit tight? I didn't say feeling, I said feel. Just as a craftsman is able to work by feel and sense, so to the experienced climber has a feel for when a placement is good, or not.
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jt512
Sep 13, 2011, 9:29 PM
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tolman_paul wrote: Panties wound a bit tight? I didn't say feeling, I said feel. Just as a craftsman is able to work by feel and sense, so to the experienced climber has a feel for when a placement is good, or not. You said "feeling."
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ceebo
Sep 13, 2011, 9:40 PM
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tolman_paul wrote: ceebo wrote: Bombers aside problem is, how do you know what a good placement is?. I have been shown ''good'' placements from many people, yet when i ask them about their trad falls.. zero. It is hard to gain confidence in questionable placements shown by people who have never fell on them. Personally im like you, never fell in trad and tbh don't realy plan on it. I will only consider falls on a project where i know the placements are good (as in i have safe tested them). Onsight wise.. no fucking way.. im not that confident. With time you'll get a feeling for what qualifies as a good placement. There is something to be said for clean aid climbing, if it won't hold bodyweight, it certainly won't hold a fall. You just get a feel over time of when a chock is fully seated in a crack vs. hung up on a single crystal. With cams, you yearn what type of placements are solid, and which lead to the cam walking and some of the cams loosing contact with the rock. There is also much value in cleaning routes that have been lead by somebody who knows how to make good placements, and following routes by people who don't. You get to compare and contrast the placements. And sometimes the leader that knows how to make good placements will occasionaly make a bad one or two, because there are no options and a purely psychological placement near a crux or shortly before a better placement can be made has a value to the leader. Bounce testing a piece and taking a E6 fall on it are for me two differant things. Maybe that is just my lack of experiance shining through. As a side not, trad is just a funy fuking thing i can't quite work out. So much of the mentality is ''don't fall''. If you really just can't fall then why place gear to begin with ... if it aint even gune help. I guess allot of the mentality derived from old folk trying to put down some drama. Whats the word, ''sherlard'' or somehting?. Like those extreme logger guys.. they make out like everything is out to kill them. ''Oh yeah man... those damn squirels... gotta watch em like a hawk!! take your arm off with ought a moments notice''. On the verge of a random rant now .
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tolman_paul
Sep 13, 2011, 9:44 PM
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Sorry, I guess I was shallow in re-reading my post. But asside from destruction testing your placements, how does describe being able to evaluate the quality of them? What would be the best word to describe when you have achieved that skill? What the o/p should be asking experienced partners not only to show what a good placement is, but why it is a good placement, the same as what is a bad or marginal placement, and why.
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jacques
Sep 14, 2011, 4:21 AM
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ceebo wrote: Bombers aside problem is, how do you know what a good placement is?.[...}. It is hard to gain confidence in questionable placements shown by people who have never fell on them. [..]Onsight wise.. no fucking way.. im not that confident. The relation between a good placement and the chance of a fall is an important distinction in trad climbing. if your placement is good at 30 % and your chance to do the move are of 10%, I will not do the move. But If my chance to do the move are of 80%, I will take a look. In sport, a bolt is rate at 100%, so the risk of a fall can be of 90% without danger. You can not play with a strategy in sport. the bolt are there. A strategy is to decide where and when you can climb over your protection. In the case of bombers, I think that it is better to learn about how to fall safely. Knowing what to avoid in a fall is somethink very motivating after two or three years of climbing at 5.6 or 5.7 level. It is far than climbing over your helmet to prove that you can push your limit. The hexe and tricam of old, I prefer trad, climber was less safer than new cam. so, they are more aware of the danger of a fall and when to take a chance or bail. some times, there knowledge are not scientific and they are ridiculize by engineer. But there knowledge are pratical and if you lessen carefully, you will understand that they don't take too many risk. As I like to try to climb like those trad climber, I often be sorry that there knowledge are not transmitted to new generation of climber.
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the_climber
Sep 15, 2011, 5:35 AM
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zealotnoob wrote: If you're not flying, you're not trying. Which may be fine for you, but, if you want to progress through the grades, you're going to hit a serious wall. For me it was around 5.10+. And you won't be able to break through until you get comfortable taking the whip. Getting comfortable doesn't mean being stupid. It's about taking ownership of the consequences. Some falls are safe, others dangerous. You can read about it a book and make a good guess, but you'll never know until you log some air and ingrain the experience (though you better have guessed right). Take some backed up practice falls to test your falling technique (see: Arno Ilgner and the Rock Warrior's Way). Identify harder climbs with great gear and clean falls, and commit. Sport climbing helps too. Take it in small, manageable steps. Good luck. Just quoting because there's a couple good points and some reference to rock warrior's way. Another book with perspective would be The Rage: Reflections on Risk by Steve DeMaio. There are references to falling in the book, but a point noted a number of times is when (and if my copy wasn't on loan I'd quote it properly) Steve makes note of "This is not a good place to fall". There is a lot to learn in the leading game. Some of that comes from mileage and skills learned, some of the more important points come from developing both risk management skills and from mountain maturity.
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ceebo
Sep 15, 2011, 11:38 AM
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the_climber wrote: zealotnoob wrote: If you're not flying, you're not trying. Which may be fine for you, but, if you want to progress through the grades, you're going to hit a serious wall. For me it was around 5.10+. And you won't be able to break through until you get comfortable taking the whip. Getting comfortable doesn't mean being stupid. It's about taking ownership of the consequences. Some falls are safe, others dangerous. You can read about it a book and make a good guess, but you'll never know until you log some air and ingrain the experience (though you better have guessed right). Take some backed up practice falls to test your falling technique (see: Arno Ilgner and the Rock Warrior's Way). Identify harder climbs with great gear and clean falls, and commit. Sport climbing helps too. Take it in small, manageable steps. Good luck. Just quoting because there's a couple good points and some reference to rock warrior's way. Another book with perspective would be The Rage: Reflections on Risk by Steve DeMaio. There are references to falling in the book, but a point noted a number of times is when (and if my copy wasn't on loan I'd quote it properly) Steve makes note of "This is not a good place to fall". There is a lot to learn in the leading game. Some of that comes from mileage and skills learned, some of the more important points come from developing both risk management skills and from mountain maturity. Their is the problem for me, and im sure many more ;p. At what point do you define a climb worth the risk of decking out.. hitting a ledge etc, with the very real possibility of being crippled or killed. Do we factor the risk grade wise?.. as in E1 is not worth it.. but E10 is?. Is the risk worth while if it gives you reccognition?. Is the risk worth while if it makes you feel like a man?. Is the risk worth while if you can never play football with your son again?. They are very real questions for me, and every time i look up the line of a route that has this cripple/death potential i can not justify it. How do you people justify it?.
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zealotnoob
Sep 15, 2011, 12:21 PM
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When you cross a busy street, how do you determine when you should cross? You could trip, fall flat on your face and get run over. A drunk driver could appear and take you down. Etc. It's a calculated risk. Same with climbing. No one takes the next move if they think the chances are high that they'll fail. You know you can mitigate the risk because of all of your hard work and skill and you take it. Success is a validation of the work and skill.
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njrox
Sep 15, 2011, 1:43 PM
Post #39 of 51
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jt512 wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: jt512 wrote: njrox wrote: Mariofercol wrote: I would suggest try taking lead falls in the gym. You do not want to submit your gear to unnecessary wearing. I would never try lead falls on gear. I place my pieces and pry that I won't have to test them. The few times that I've fallen in gear they have hold, and I'm thankful for that, but I won't push my luck just to see if they hold. Good point. It's not something to play around with. I do place gear for TR anchors. Having 4-5 cams/nuts above is a lot easier on the mind than a peice here and there below my feet. More of a mental strain with regards to trusting that one peice below to catch a fall and wanting to climb higher. You've never even led a climb. What the hell makes you think you're qualified to express an opinion on this issue? You know how sometimes people on the internet say "STFU, n00b"? Well, they mean you. Jay Jay, he wasn't giving advice. Sometimes a good 'ol STFU is warranted. Not in this case. Josh In your opinion. I think it is always worth calling out ignorant foolishness. Jay I anchor on gear all the time. And I've cleaned leads before. I know what a good placement is. My statement regarding "a mental strain with regards to trusting that one peice below to catch a fall and wanting to climb higher" is drawn from my own experiences with climbing. That's not ignorance. That's my judgement!
(This post was edited by njrox on Sep 15, 2011, 1:50 PM)
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blueeyedclimber
Sep 15, 2011, 2:17 PM
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njrox wrote: jt512 wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: jt512 wrote: njrox wrote: Mariofercol wrote: I would suggest try taking lead falls in the gym. You do not want to submit your gear to unnecessary wearing. I would never try lead falls on gear. I place my pieces and pry that I won't have to test them. The few times that I've fallen in gear they have hold, and I'm thankful for that, but I won't push my luck just to see if they hold. Good point. It's not something to play around with. I do place gear for TR anchors. Having 4-5 cams/nuts above is a lot easier on the mind than a peice here and there below my feet. More of a mental strain with regards to trusting that one peice below to catch a fall and wanting to climb higher. You've never even led a climb. What the hell makes you think you're qualified to express an opinion on this issue? You know how sometimes people on the internet say "STFU, n00b"? Well, they mean you. Jay Jay, he wasn't giving advice. Sometimes a good 'ol STFU is warranted. Not in this case. Josh In your opinion. I think it is always worth calling out ignorant foolishness. Jay I anchor on gear all the time. And I've cleaned leads before. I know what a good placement is. My statement regarding "a mental strain with regards to trusting that one peice below to catch a fall and wanting to climb higher" is drawn from my own experiences with climbing. That's not ignorance. That's my judgement! Jay will say your judgement is ignorant. Don't bother. Josh
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bearbreeder
Sep 15, 2011, 4:40 PM
Post #41 of 51
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i personally think you need to have fallen on trad to be confident about gear placements for lead while all those 5.6 climbers who never fall who build anchors im sure know how to place gear on the ground in static situations only someone whos climbed and had to deal with rope drag, marginal placements, cams which shifted, nuts which got pulled by rope movement, cams that shifted slightly and opened on falls ... and fallen on gear large and small ... i feel can truly tell you what works (for him/her) ... at some point anyone who climbs trad long enough and moderately hard will fall ... usually once they hit the 10s from what i see i honestly would not be learning lead trad placements from someone who hasnt fallen on lead trad a few times ... or at the very least planned falls on gear ...
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ceebo
Sep 15, 2011, 5:01 PM
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zealotnoob wrote: When you cross a busy street, how do you determine when you should cross? You could trip, fall flat on your face and get run over. A drunk driver could appear and take you down. Etc. It's a calculated risk. Same with climbing. No one takes the next move if they think the chances are high that they'll fail. You know you can mitigate the risk because of all of your hard work and skill and you take it. Success is a validation of the work and skill. You typically do not cross a road because your ego told you too. And, climbing a wall, for most of us.. is not a requirement to feed our family. So, don't cross the road? live in a jungle?. That is a true risk assessment.. Clealry their are better survival odds living in a modern society, or else why do so many do it.
(This post was edited by ceebo on Sep 15, 2011, 5:02 PM)
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Colinhoglund
Sep 15, 2011, 5:02 PM
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I never really trusted my gear until I finally took my first real (not practiced) fall on gear. After that I went from wobbling on 5.8 to an onsight of a 10c in under two weeks. When I was confident in my ability to place good gear and that it would hold, I could think about climbing and focus on the moves ahead. (as my disclaimer this was after two seasons of having my own rack with much milage on easy routes as well as cleaning many a harder route) Takes some sport or indoor wall falls and get used to the feeling.
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tolman_paul
Sep 15, 2011, 5:36 PM
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ceebo wrote: Their is the problem for me, and im sure many more ;p. At what point do you define a climb worth the risk of decking out.. hitting a ledge etc, with the very real possibility of being crippled or killed. Do we factor the risk grade wise?.. as in E1 is not worth it.. but E10 is?. Is the risk worth while if it gives you reccognition?. Is the risk worth while if it makes you feel like a man?. Is the risk worth while if you can never play football with your son again?. They are very real questions for me, and every time i look up the line of a route that has this cripple/death potential i can not justify it. How do you people justify it?. I deel with industrial risks, they are calculated both on the likeliness of them occuring, and the severity. So when you look at the risk of a paticular route, you need to figure out both how likely a fall at a paticular point will be, as well as the consequences of the fall. How does one justify climbing? To me there are mental and emotional benefits I get from climbing that I don't get from other activities. Sure I can go to the gym and get a sweat up. But in life there are times where you find yourself in situations where you have to commit, and you can't f up. Climbing can teach you that. Everyone dies, but not everyone lives.
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wonderwoman
Sep 15, 2011, 5:43 PM
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ceebo wrote: the_climber wrote: zealotnoob wrote: If you're not flying, you're not trying. Which may be fine for you, but, if you want to progress through the grades, you're going to hit a serious wall. For me it was around 5.10+. And you won't be able to break through until you get comfortable taking the whip. Getting comfortable doesn't mean being stupid. It's about taking ownership of the consequences. Some falls are safe, others dangerous. You can read about it a book and make a good guess, but you'll never know until you log some air and ingrain the experience (though you better have guessed right). Take some backed up practice falls to test your falling technique (see: Arno Ilgner and the Rock Warrior's Way). Identify harder climbs with great gear and clean falls, and commit. Sport climbing helps too. Take it in small, manageable steps. Good luck. Just quoting because there's a couple good points and some reference to rock warrior's way. Another book with perspective would be The Rage: Reflections on Risk by Steve DeMaio. There are references to falling in the book, but a point noted a number of times is when (and if my copy wasn't on loan I'd quote it properly) Steve makes note of "This is not a good place to fall". There is a lot to learn in the leading game. Some of that comes from mileage and skills learned, some of the more important points come from developing both risk management skills and from mountain maturity. Their is the problem for me, and im sure many more ;p. At what point do you define a climb worth the risk of decking out.. hitting a ledge etc, with the very real possibility of being crippled or killed. Do we factor the risk grade wise?.. as in E1 is not worth it.. but E10 is?. Is the risk worth while if it gives you reccognition?. Is the risk worth while if it makes you feel like a man?. Is the risk worth while if you can never play football with your son again?. They are very real questions for me, and every time i look up the line of a route that has this cripple/death potential i can not justify it. How do you people justify it?. Although I cannot say that it makes me 'feel like a man', I can tell you that I prefer clean falls on harder or overhanging routes rather than the dicey falls that come with the ledgey-dirty-easier-grade territory. There are often less obstacles in the way on the harder climbs.
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zealotnoob
Sep 15, 2011, 6:22 PM
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ceebo wrote: zealotnoob wrote: When you cross a busy street, how do you determine when you should cross? You could trip, fall flat on your face and get run over. A drunk driver could appear and take you down. Etc. It's a calculated risk. Same with climbing. No one takes the next move if they think the chances are high that they'll fail. You know you can mitigate the risk because of all of your hard work and skill and you take it. Success is a validation of the work and skill. You typically do not cross a road because your ego told you too. And, climbing a wall, for most of us.. is not a requirement to feed our family. So, don't cross the road? live in a jungle?. That is a true risk assessment.. Clealry their are better survival odds living in a modern society, or else why do so many do it. If you can only justify climbing as a satisfaction of ego, then no, you probably can't justify the risks. There may be more apt examples, such as driving aggressively, skiing...any sport where danger is an issue. The point is that the risk is calculated. How you calculate the risk evolves with experience and the context of the rest of your life. It's up to you. That is, when someone climbs over a ledge and risks maiming given a fall, they aren't necessarily reckless. It's more likely that the climber has his or her shit together and knows he or she can mitigate the risk. We all have a line in our heads with things we think are reasonable risks on one side, and unreasonable ones on the other. Where we place that line rests on skill, experience, mood, relationships, etc...
(This post was edited by zealotnoob on Sep 15, 2011, 6:48 PM)
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jt512
Sep 15, 2011, 6:41 PM
Post #47 of 51
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ceebo wrote: the_climber wrote: zealotnoob wrote: If you're not flying, you're not trying. Which may be fine for you, but, if you want to progress through the grades, you're going to hit a serious wall. For me it was around 5.10+. And you won't be able to break through until you get comfortable taking the whip. Getting comfortable doesn't mean being stupid. It's about taking ownership of the consequences. Some falls are safe, others dangerous. You can read about it a book and make a good guess, but you'll never know until you log some air and ingrain the experience (though you better have guessed right). Take some backed up practice falls to test your falling technique (see: Arno Ilgner and the Rock Warrior's Way). Identify harder climbs with great gear and clean falls, and commit. Sport climbing helps too. Take it in small, manageable steps. Good luck. Just quoting because there's a couple good points and some reference to rock warrior's way. Another book with perspective would be The Rage: Reflections on Risk by Steve DeMaio. There are references to falling in the book, but a point noted a number of times is when (and if my copy wasn't on loan I'd quote it properly) Steve makes note of "This is not a good place to fall". There is a lot to learn in the leading game. Some of that comes from mileage and skills learned, some of the more important points come from developing both risk management skills and from mountain maturity. Their is the problem for me, and im sure many more ;p. At what point do you define a climb worth the risk of decking out.. hitting a ledge etc, with the very real possibility of being crippled or killed. IMO, no route is worth it if there is a significant risk of getting crippled or killed, but that doesn't mean that you can't climb routes that if you were to fall you'd be crippled or killed. You have to be able to judge the risk and your ability to handle the risk. That ability comes with experience. Jay
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climbingtrash
Sep 15, 2011, 11:33 PM
Post #48 of 51
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Registered: Jan 19, 2006
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ceebo wrote: zealotnoob wrote: When you cross a busy street, how do you determine when you should cross? You could trip, fall flat on your face and get run over. A drunk driver could appear and take you down. Etc. It's a calculated risk. Same with climbing. No one takes the next move if they think the chances are high that they'll fail. You know you can mitigate the risk because of all of your hard work and skill and you take it. Success is a validation of the work and skill. You typically do not cross a road because your ego told you too. And, climbing a wall, for most of us.. is not a requirement to feed our family. So, don't cross the road? live in a jungle?. That is a true risk assessment.. Clealry their are better survival odds living in a modern society, or else why do so many do it. I guide rock climbing for a living.
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stoneguy
Sep 16, 2011, 1:38 AM
Post #49 of 51
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Registered: Apr 8, 2011
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OK... I'm going to go way out on a limb here and say that I am really starting to like your comments. Sensible, and applicable.Thanks.
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ceebo
Sep 16, 2011, 3:36 PM
Post #50 of 51
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wonderwoman wrote: ceebo wrote: the_climber wrote: zealotnoob wrote: If you're not flying, you're not trying. Which may be fine for you, but, if you want to progress through the grades, you're going to hit a serious wall. For me it was around 5.10+. And you won't be able to break through until you get comfortable taking the whip. Getting comfortable doesn't mean being stupid. It's about taking ownership of the consequences. Some falls are safe, others dangerous. You can read about it a book and make a good guess, but you'll never know until you log some air and ingrain the experience (though you better have guessed right). Take some backed up practice falls to test your falling technique (see: Arno Ilgner and the Rock Warrior's Way). Identify harder climbs with great gear and clean falls, and commit. Sport climbing helps too. Take it in small, manageable steps. Good luck. Just quoting because there's a couple good points and some reference to rock warrior's way. Another book with perspective would be The Rage: Reflections on Risk by Steve DeMaio. There are references to falling in the book, but a point noted a number of times is when (and if my copy wasn't on loan I'd quote it properly) Steve makes note of "This is not a good place to fall". There is a lot to learn in the leading game. Some of that comes from mileage and skills learned, some of the more important points come from developing both risk management skills and from mountain maturity. Their is the problem for me, and im sure many more ;p. At what point do you define a climb worth the risk of decking out.. hitting a ledge etc, with the very real possibility of being crippled or killed. Do we factor the risk grade wise?.. as in E1 is not worth it.. but E10 is?. Is the risk worth while if it gives you reccognition?. Is the risk worth while if it makes you feel like a man?. Is the risk worth while if you can never play football with your son again?. They are very real questions for me, and every time i look up the line of a route that has this cripple/death potential i can not justify it. How do you people justify it?. Although I cannot say that it makes me 'feel like a man', I can tell you that I prefer clean falls on harder or overhanging routes rather than the dicey falls that come with the ledgey-dirty-easier-grade territory. There are often less obstacles in the way on the harder climbs. Yeah ofc, that is very logical. However.. im sure you can see where i'm go with this in regards to the pros of harder climbing but cleaner falls, vs easier climbing and more complicated falls. In any case the deciding factor would still come back to trusting gear placement. If the trust is not their.. unlikely a person will be found on a overhang.
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IsayAutumn
Sep 16, 2011, 4:35 PM
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rtsteed wrote: Like many others I starting climbing at a gym and then moved outdoors into the outdoors. Since the transition two years ago I have not taken a lead fall. I am a rookie who is starting to transition to trad climbing and I am wondering if me not falling has caused me to not push myself. while placing pro I get nervous once I get above the pro. but I constantly stay on routes I know I can handle. Will this come back to bite me in the butt? I don't think it will come back to bite you in the butt if you don't end up taking more falls. However, it will hold you back from progressing through the grades if that is something you are interested in. Like some others in this thread have said, I started leading trad my first season and never got on anything I thought I would fall on. Even then, I was still scared above my gear. Much of that went away when I made the decision to climb harder routes that were easily protected. For one thing, I agree 100% that the potential to fall on a low-angle, chunky route is much, much scarier than it is on a harder route with nothing but air underneath. If you are comfortable with your gear placements and feel they are good, then my advice would be to get on a harder climb that protects well and see how it goes. Placing gear isn't rocket science, and it doesn't take all that long for a competent person to figure out how to place good pro. Find a crack climb that takes good, straightforward cams and nuts and will challenge you a little bit and go for it ... if you desire to push the grades. Once I started falling on trad, I got much more comfortable with tackling harder routes. Now, falling over gear doesn't give me much anxiety at all. Still a bit more than over bolts, but knowing your pro is good and that it works does wonders for your head. Also, take sport whippers.
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