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climbingtrash
Sep 28, 2011, 2:03 PM
Post #31351 of 45342
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johnwesely wrote: Kartessa wrote: To go to Yosemite this weekend Go to Squamish and climb with my friend Sonny.
You would do that to a friend?
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climbingtrash
Sep 28, 2011, 2:03 PM
Post #31352 of 45342
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PTFTW?!?
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climbingtrash
Sep 28, 2011, 2:03 PM
Post #31353 of 45342
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wo0!?!
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climbingtrash
Sep 28, 2011, 2:03 PM
Post #31354 of 45342
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protekt!
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johnwesely
Sep 28, 2011, 2:03 PM
Post #31355 of 45342
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notapplicable wrote: Good luck with that. It can be harder than it sounds. You have to belay the way they think is correct, which can sometimes actually be not so correct, or at least not ideal. I've failed several belay tests over they years because of dumb shit on their checklists.
If that happens, I give them a stern eye, back them in to a wall, and say, without emotion, "Do you know what I went through to get this far?". Never fails. Most of the time.
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johnwesely
Sep 28, 2011, 2:04 PM
Post #31356 of 45342
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notapplicable wrote: Spicy! It's actually kind of strange how rare a properly bolted sport route really is. I don't know if people are over thinking it or under thinking or what but I've seen some strange bolt arrangements at just about every sport crag I've visit.
Examples?
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climbingtrash
Sep 28, 2011, 2:06 PM
Post #31357 of 45342
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wo0! Fanchez FTW!!11
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johnwesely
Sep 28, 2011, 2:07 PM
Post #31358 of 45342
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Gmburns2000 wrote: johnwesely wrote: donald949 wrote: Never been a member at a gym. But a couple of guys noobs at work started climbing at the gym. I've been out with them a couple times this spring. So we are planning to start climbing in the gym on a regular basis. I guess now I'll have to get belay certified. You will become stronger than you ever imagined! Your shirt will literally melt off your rippling pectorals and washboard abs! yah, I need money so that I can hit the gym and train more. honestly, i'm fatter than hell right now.
You should get on a fad diet.
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johnwesely
Sep 28, 2011, 2:07 PM
Post #31359 of 45342
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climbingtrash wrote: PTFTW?!?
Certainly not.
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johnwesely
Sep 28, 2011, 2:07 PM
Post #31360 of 45342
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climbingtrash wrote: protekt!
Makes helmets?
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Gmburns2000
Sep 28, 2011, 2:10 PM
Post #31361 of 45342
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anyone else here read Greg Easterbrook's Tuesday Morning Quarterback on ESPN?
Yeah, I know, the answer is probably no, but it isn't all sports. Much of the article is politics and science, and it's a damn good read (he also makes lots of supposedly smart people look really foolish with simple stats).
Here is one of the segments of this week's article:
"Bad Predictions Watch: Reader Tyler Smith of Zionsville, Ind., notes students at Hamilton College tracked a year's worth of predictions by political pundits, and found the average pundit no more accurate than a coin flip. Hamilton College students also discerned a hidden pattern: "Prognosticators with a law degree were more likely to be wrong.""
Another (not about football despite the title):
"Football Factory Universities Continue to Lower Their Standards: Last spring the Ohio State football program was embarrassed, and OSU president Gordon Gee responded by all but lying about the program's academics. Last month the University of Miami football program was embarrassed, and Miami president Donna Shalala responded by all but lying about the program's academics. Details are here. In a spin-cycle world, what seems to matter is that when big-university presidents don't tell the truth about academics, they get away with it.
OSU and Miami are embroiled in genuine scandals. The University of Oklahoma, by contrast, is merely under pressure because, in its football-conference fight, OU seems obsessed by sports revenue. Yet Oklahoma has now veered down the low road. Saturday, during the Oklahoma-Missouri game, OU president David Boren appeared in an advertisement, produced by OU, promoting the school. He declared, "In fact, Oklahoma is the top public university for academic excellence." This sounded hauntingly like Gee declaring OSU football "ranked first in academic performance among the nation's top 25 teams" (not true) or Shalala asserting "the academic achievements of our student-athletes are mentioned in the same breath and spirit as Notre Dame and Stanford" (not true, except in the literal sense that Shalala herself says this).
Is Boren's claim true? After all, Boren said OU being "the top public university for academic excellence" is a matter of fact, not opinion. I asked Oklahoma spokeswomen Catherine Bishop what backs Boren's claim. She responded, "OU ranks first in the nation in the number of freshman National Merit Scholars enrolled. During the past year, an OU student became the University's 28th Rhodes Scholar, making OU one of the top producers of Rhodes Scholars nationally. The Princeton Review has named OU among the top public universities in terms of academic excellence and cost to students, and OU is in the top tier rankings in research, according to the Carnegie Foundation."
Fact-check: Does Oklahoma rank "first in the nation" in freshman National Merit scholars enrolled, as the school asserts? "We haven't published any information yet on the current freshman class," National Merit Scholarship Corporation spokeswoman Eileen Artemakis told TMQ. "No one knows who's No. 1." In 2010, OU ranked fifth for National Merit scholars.
Oklahoma has produced 28 Rhodes scholars, out of 334 Rhodes scholarships awarded to students from American schools. In the current year, University of Oklahoma has one Rhodes scholar. Harvard, Stanford and the University of Chicago have three each.
Princeton Review ranked Oklahoma one of 376 "best" colleges and among the 50 "best value" public universities. Princeton Review did not rank OU for "academic excellence."
To back the assertion that "OU is in the top tier rankings in research, according to the Carnegie Foundation," Bishop offered this page. The page is simply Carnegie's classification. All universities are classified by Carnegie: find any college's classification here. Oklahoma's name does not appear among the 41 top schools in the Carnegie metric. Nor is the University of Oklahoma a member of the Association of American Universities, the organization of the country's top research center universities.
Being fifth in National Merit scholars is impressive, though it isn't being first. Having had 28 Rhodes scholars is extremely impressive. Other backing for Boren's claims appears embroidered at best.
The University of Oklahoma may be a great place to go to college, especially considering it is relatively affordable. And rankings tell only part of the story. College is what you make it. But it's simply not the case that "In fact, Oklahoma is the top public university for academic excellence."
Schools such as OSU, Miami and Oklahoma are accused of skewed priorities, and their presidents respond with statements that are at worst deliberate deceit, at best the sort of slipshod unsubstantiated claim that would cause a college student to flunk a paper. This just seems more proof that the accusations against football-factory universities are correct. Wouldn't it be nice if the highly paid presidents of big colleges took care only to say that which is true?"
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Gmburns2000
Sep 28, 2011, 2:11 PM
Post #31362 of 45342
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GAAAAA!!!! 
MY EYES!!!!!
^^^^CONTENT!!!!!
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Gmburns2000
Sep 28, 2011, 2:12 PM
Post #31363 of 45342
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johnwesely wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: johnwesely wrote: donald949 wrote: Never been a member at a gym. But a couple of guys noobs at work started climbing at the gym. I've been out with them a couple times this spring. So we are planning to start climbing in the gym on a regular basis. I guess now I'll have to get belay certified. You will become stronger than you ever imagined! Your shirt will literally melt off your rippling pectorals and washboard abs! yah, I need money so that I can hit the gym and train more. honestly, i'm fatter than hell right now. You should get on a fad diet.
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johnwesely
Sep 28, 2011, 2:18 PM
Post #31364 of 45342
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Gmburns2000 wrote: johnwesely wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: johnwesely wrote: donald949 wrote: Never been a member at a gym. But a couple of guys noobs at work started climbing at the gym. I've been out with them a couple times this spring. So we are planning to start climbing in the gym on a regular basis. I guess now I'll have to get belay certified. You will become stronger than you ever imagined! Your shirt will literally melt off your rippling pectorals and washboard abs! yah, I need money so that I can hit the gym and train more. honestly, i'm fatter than hell right now. You should get on a fad diet. i thought not going on a fad diet was the new fad.
I sure hope not.
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macherry
Sep 28, 2011, 2:57 PM
Post #31365 of 45342
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Kartessa wrote: macherry wrote: Kartessa wrote: macherry wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: Kartessa wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: Kartessa wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: notapplicable wrote: Kartessa wrote: notapplicable wrote: Kartessa wrote: Gotta make a visa run into Buffalo tomorrow. Yay for a 3-hour trip to the border [raised eyebrow emoticon] Visa denied  No soup for you! what do you need the visa for? To go to Yosemite this weekend Really? You need a visa to travel to the US now? Like Bryan, I thought you could come and go as you pleased. When did that change? I'm akshully a français and your country doesn't appreciate our good cooking and loose morals ok, in all seriousness, are you a canadian citizen or a french citizen? both kind of matter to me because I'm now wondering if there are reciprocity laws for going to the EU or Canada when there weren't any just a few years ago. If I need to get a visa to go to Spain next year then now is a good time to learn about it. yeah, explain, why would you need a visa. If I was flying, it wouldn't be an issue, you just do the usual immigration thing when you get to the states. Because I'm crossing by land and flying out of Buffalo, I need to do the immigration thing which can take up to 5 hours. Had I gotten a 3-mont visa, I could just bypass the stupidly long waiting bullshit and just drive right through the border. But Noooooo, I need to go through immigration again on Thursday. Don't worry Greg, it's not something you need to apply for ahead of time with the EU, you just show up and they stamp your passport. still don't get it. i've left canada to fly out of spokane wa. (same day) and did not need a visa. if you're canadian it's not a problem!! You got through because you had Canadian papers. I'm traveling on a French passport because I lost my Canadian on when I moved.
well that makes sense
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Kartessa
Sep 28, 2011, 3:41 PM
Post #31366 of 45342
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johnwesely wrote: Kartessa wrote: To go to Yosemite this weekend Go to Squamish and climb with my friend Sonny.
too expensive, flights to BC run in the 700 range
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Kartessa
Sep 28, 2011, 3:49 PM
Post #31367 of 45342
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macherry wrote: Kartessa wrote: macherry wrote: Kartessa wrote: macherry wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: Kartessa wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: Kartessa wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: notapplicable wrote: Kartessa wrote: notapplicable wrote: Kartessa wrote: Gotta make a visa run into Buffalo tomorrow. Yay for a 3-hour trip to the border [raised eyebrow emoticon] Visa denied No soup for you! what do you need the visa for? To go to Yosemite this weekend Really? You need a visa to travel to the US now? Like Bryan, I thought you could come and go as you pleased. When did that change? I'm akshully a français and your country doesn't appreciate our good cooking and loose morals ok, in all seriousness, are you a canadian citizen or a french citizen? both kind of matter to me because I'm now wondering if there are reciprocity laws for going to the EU or Canada when there weren't any just a few years ago. If I need to get a visa to go to Spain next year then now is a good time to learn about it. yeah, explain, why would you need a visa. If I was flying, it wouldn't be an issue, you just do the usual immigration thing when you get to the states. Because I'm crossing by land and flying out of Buffalo, I need to do the immigration thing which can take up to 5 hours. Had I gotten a 3-mont visa, I could just bypass the stupidly long waiting bullshit and just drive right through the border. But Noooooo, I need to go through immigration again on Thursday. Don't worry Greg, it's not something you need to apply for ahead of time with the EU, you just show up and they stamp your passport. still don't get it. i've left canada to fly out of spokane wa. (same day) and did not need a visa. if you're canadian it's not a problem!! You got through because you had Canadian papers. I'm traveling on a French passport because I lost my Canadian on when I moved. well that makes sense
Finally, were on the same page
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johnwesely
Sep 28, 2011, 3:51 PM
Post #31368 of 45342
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Kartessa wrote: johnwesely wrote: Kartessa wrote: To go to Yosemite this weekend Go to Squamish and climb with my friend Sonny. too expensive, flights to BC run in the 700 range
Holy cow. Planes are spensive.
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donald949
Sep 28, 2011, 4:13 PM
Post #31369 of 45342
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notapplicable wrote: donald949 wrote: Kartessa wrote: notapplicable wrote: donald949 wrote: notapplicable wrote: donald949 wrote: sungam wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: sungam wrote: Well, my man Michel took a bunch of gnar inverting clip-blowing whips into a slab start today. Somehow all he has is a sore elbow and a kinda ouchey hip. The man is like a fucking lepricon or something, SO lucky. He hit a ledge one time and just kinda glanced off it (making him invert) and another inverting fall he took (rope behind heel) he narrowly missed the ledge while upsidedown. what the hell? >snip< Wow crazy day dude. Glad to hear everyone is more or less fine. But on question arises. What is Z clipping? Everyone I asks says, "I think its back clipping." You use both terms, and make them sound different. edit speilink  OMG, YGD nOOb! Apparently. Hangs head in shame. turns in belay card. HA! Don't worry, you are in good company. I've temporarily lost belay privileges at my gym at least once. I'm currently on a boiuldering ban Never been a member at a gym. But a couple of guys noobs at work started climbing at the gym. I've been out with them a couple times this spring. So we are planning to start climbing in the gym on a regular basis. I guess now I'll have to get belay certified. Good luck with that. It can be harder than it sounds. You have to belay the way they think is correct, which can sometimes actually be not so correct, or at least not ideal. I've failed several belay tests over they years because of dumb shit on their checklists.
WTF?
Those dirty rats.
Actually, I belay palms up. Sew i will prolly flail.
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donald949
Sep 28, 2011, 4:16 PM
Post #31370 of 45342
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Looks like I took a flyer.
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donald949
Sep 28, 2011, 4:16 PM
Post #31371 of 45342
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But my pro held
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donald949
Sep 28, 2011, 4:21 PM
Post #31372 of 45342
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johnwesely wrote: donald949 wrote: Never been a member at a gym. But a couple of guys noobs at work started climbing at the gym. I've been out with them a couple times this spring. So we are planning to start climbing in the gym on a regular basis. I guess now I'll have to get belay certified. You will become stronger than you ever imagined! Your shirt will literally melt off your rippling pectorals and washboard abs!  The wife will be glad to hear it.
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donald949
Sep 28, 2011, 4:23 PM
Post #31373 of 45342
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Gmburns2000 wrote: GAAAAA!!!! MY EYES!!!!! ^^^^CONTENT!!!!!
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donald949
Sep 28, 2011, 4:27 PM
Post #31374 of 45342
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johnwesely wrote: notapplicable wrote: Good luck with that. It can be harder than it sounds. You have to belay the way they think is correct, which can sometimes actually be not so correct, or at least not ideal. I've failed several belay tests over they years because of dumb shit on their checklists. If that happens, I give them a stern eye, back them in to a wall, and say, without emotion, "Do you know what I went through to get this far?". Never fails. Most of the time.
I wuz givin the hip belays to leaders 300 feet off the deck before you were born son. Don't read me no paper that sayz palms down on belay boy.
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Kartessa
Sep 28, 2011, 4:36 PM
Post #31375 of 45342
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johnwesely wrote: Kartessa wrote: johnwesely wrote: Kartessa wrote: To go to Yosemite this weekend Go to Squamish and climb with my friend Sonny. too expensive, flights to BC run in the 700 range Holy cow. Planes are spensive.
Canada just doesnt like it's people moving around, flights are expensive, trains are more, and gas is $1.25/L
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