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jorgegonzalez
Oct 27, 2011, 11:02 PM
Post #51 of 56
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Registered: Sep 17, 2005
Posts: 144
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To each his own. All I can say is BITD we did nothing but 5.9-5-11 and sneered at anyone doing anything less. Now I'm loving those 5.8s I passed on years ago, and happy to say I'm still climbing moderates at my age (56).
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rgold
Oct 29, 2011, 5:06 PM
Post #52 of 56
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Registered: Dec 3, 2002
Posts: 1804
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In a place iike the Gunks, I'd say "moderate" means something like 5.6 - 5.9- G/PG and then maybe 5.9 - 5.10a G.
Focusing on well-protected difficulty makes sense in a sport-climbing context but not for trad. Even without a good definition, you can't toss around the moderate word for trad climbing without referring to the level of available protection. Is 5.4 X moderate? Is 5.6 R moderate? I can guarantee you that neither 5.8 X nor 5.9 R in the Gunks is moderate, and could supply a list of rarely done leads (especially onsight leads) to back it up.
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shockabuku
Oct 29, 2011, 8:12 PM
Post #53 of 56
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Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4868
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So 5.11c becomes a "hard" 5.5?
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olderic
Oct 29, 2011, 9:51 PM
Post #54 of 56
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Registered: Oct 17, 2003
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shockabuku wrote: So 5.11c becomes a "hard" 5.5?
Right idea but the correct version would be that real 5.5 becomes "11c" for the sporto/gym rat crowd. Unless it involves jamming - then it would be 12+
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notapplicable
Oct 29, 2011, 11:26 PM
Post #55 of 56
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Registered: Aug 31, 2006
Posts: 17771
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kachoong wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: kachoong wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: kachoong wrote:
A climber with any whiff of knowledge about climbing would be asking for specific grades, not asking vague questions like that anyway. So, no one here then.  Josh Where? In Massachusetts? Yes. No one here climbs. We just drive like jerks and beat everyone else's sports teams. Although that seems to be coming to an end. Maybe I'll start climbing now and move to Texas. Any good climbing down there? If the climbing is as good as the politics, then it must be AWESOME! Josh  I would say you have moderate footballers up there... TX is where most of the hard core players come from. Drivers in TX are probably bigger jerks too... but I have yet to drive in the NE. Crags here are moderately-endowed with plenty of easy-moderate climbs. I know nothing of politics... I'm a koala.
This is true, you guys are ridiculous. People at least know how to use turn signals in the NE.
Texans will also steal anything not bolted down. I lost $300+ in equipment over 4 days in San Antonio from people just walking by and taking it while I was working in a different area.
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antigrav
Oct 30, 2011, 7:06 AM
Post #56 of 56
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Registered: Aug 18, 2003
Posts: 215
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I have always been thinking of "moderate" as the level at which I am. The easier climbs was the one I did last year. The hard climbing is what I aspire to do next year.
Not very useful for a guide book, I guess.
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