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Rmsyll2


Oct 31, 2011, 3:06 AM
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Grigri for lead belay
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Today, a person with much exerience was belaying a sport lead using a Grigri. That made two, that I've noticed, and I've tried to notice. When asked about how to give slack, he said that there were a couple of tricks. He showed vaguely using his thumb to lift the handle some. I have not tried it to know better what he meant. I'm asking for more about the technique of using a Grigri for belaying lead. Please do not go on about soft catch and not using a Grigri. Just, how is slack given despite the tendency to lock.

.


dagibbs


Oct 31, 2011, 3:24 AM
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Re: [Rmsyll2] Grigri for lead belay [In reply to]
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You could read the instructions supplied with the device, i.e.:

http://www.petzl.com/...port/D14-GRIGRI2.pdf


TheNags


Oct 31, 2011, 3:33 AM
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I have provided a lead belay from both grigri and atc, and if you use a smaller diameter rope (9.8 for me) it seems to feed slack just fine as long as you are not trying to feed slack at light speed. just my 2c and I am sure more people have have much more experience, however I have only had an issue paying out slack when the rope is really thick.


redlude97


Oct 31, 2011, 3:36 AM
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i doubt he lifted the lever with his thumb but rather held down the cam


shockabuku


Oct 31, 2011, 8:10 AM
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Start here:

http://www.petzl.com/...sisted-braking#video

It takes some practice to get it right. I find it's more important where the rope pile is flaked, relative to my right hand, when I use a Grigri than when I use an atc. If the rope isn't positioned to feed directly into my brake hand it often creates a lot of drag and makes it difficult to feed slack. When used right it works very well.


Partner j_ung


Oct 31, 2011, 3:35 PM
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^^ Agreed!


potreroed


Oct 31, 2011, 4:03 PM
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With a little practice you'll have no trouble feeding the rope with a gri-gri.


jt512


Oct 31, 2011, 5:15 PM
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shockabuku wrote:
Start here:

http://www.petzl.com/...sisted-braking#video

It takes some practice to get it right. I find it's more important where the rope pile is flaked, relative to my right hand, when I use a Grigri than when I use an atc. If the rope isn't positioned to feed directly into my brake hand it often creates a lot of drag and makes it difficult to feed slack. When used right it works very well.

Are you talking about a Grigri 2? I never had the problem you described with the original Grigri, but I have noticed it with the Grigri 2 (I'm still not sure whether I like this device or not).

Jay


shockabuku


Oct 31, 2011, 5:57 PM
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jt512 wrote:
shockabuku wrote:
Start here:

http://www.petzl.com/...sisted-braking#video

It takes some practice to get it right. I find it's more important where the rope pile is flaked, relative to my right hand, when I use a Grigri than when I use an atc. If the rope isn't positioned to feed directly into my brake hand it often creates a lot of drag and makes it difficult to feed slack. When used right it works very well.

Are you talking about a Grigri 2? I never had the problem you described with the original Grigri, but I have noticed it with the Grigri 2 (I'm still not sure whether I like this device or not).

Jay

I've had it with both - mostly when I walk too far away from my rope pile and try to quickly feed slack without deliberately pulling rope toward me first and feeding it into the device. User error.

I'm also not completely sold on the Grigri 2 vs. the original.


shotwell


Oct 31, 2011, 6:10 PM
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I've also had rope drag issues with both. I've got old habits of leaving the rope flaked on my left from when I belayed with an ATC. Now that I use a GRIGRI full time, I really notice when I do this.

As far as GG2 versus original goes, I prefer lowering with the original. Feeding seems the same to me no matter where I flake the rope.


clc


Nov 1, 2011, 1:35 AM
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Rmsyll, read the instructions. I have used the old grigri for about 15 yrs. I like the old grigri better. The new one locks up too easy when giving out slackand lowers differently. I'm just not used to the new one yet


Rmsyll2


Nov 1, 2011, 3:06 AM
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The same video is at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i6EzpBaKYTs. There is also http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uav7hIN-Uf0, and that very slow instruction is how I was able to see that the chick in the Petzl promo is using method 2. That is probably what the guy hinted to me about using his thumb. That would take me a bunch of practice.

I had searched here, not YouTube, and read a lot of negative about Grigris. Good to know somebody does like them for lead. Your encouragements and advice are encouraging, thanks.

[my problem with YouTube is distraction: somehow, I got to watching Jackie Chan, then listening to Alison Krauss....]


bearbreeder


Nov 1, 2011, 3:50 AM
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careful about what you find on RC ... there are those who tell you that gri gris are the work of the devil and kill you and yr crag dog ...

all the sports climbers that i see who climb a lot around here use one or a similar device ... they also tend to be the climbers that fall the most


JimTitt


Nov 1, 2011, 7:11 AM
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Rmsyll2 wrote:

I had searched here, not YouTube, and read a lot of negative about Grigris. Good to know somebody does like them for lead. Your encouragements and advice are encouraging, thanks.

As Bearbreeder says, that´s RC.com and the internet in general. Those that have some crusading message post about how Grigris are the work of Satan. Those who actually use them no interest in whether anyone else does so just don´t post but the sheer number of people out there with one tells a different story. One fairly reliable market estimate is that 70% of Euro sport climbers use them.

I too thought the Grigri 2 was not as good as the old model with the normal sport ropes I use and gave mine away.


mikebee


Nov 1, 2011, 10:13 AM
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GriGris are great for lead belay when used with the correct technique. So much that I am at the point where I'm considering using my GG2 for single pitch cragging. I think I'll always be an ATC-Guide/Reverso for multipitch.
I can belay with an ATC just fine, and have caught many falls with them, but I just feel like the GG gives me a bit of extra confidence as a belayer (and also when leading and getting belayed on a GG).
I reckon I can pay out rope faster with a GG2 also, which can be important in some situations.

Unlike many it seems, I really prefer the new GG2 compared to the original. I love how it feeds out so easily and works on skinnier ropes, and I like that it's smaller and lighter too.
I prefer the lowering or abseiling with the old ones, but otherwise I reckon everything about the new one is an improvement.

The most important thing is to be comfortable and proficient at whichever device you chose to belay with.


Rmsyll2


Nov 4, 2011, 4:35 AM
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There were three of us today, one who wanted to practice Sport lead. We hung top-rope for regular belay, and he did clip a rope on mock lead, with me practicing lead belay. The recommended method of cupping the brake strand while thumbing down the release arm felt very clumsy, with the rope snagging in the brake hand when curled as in the diagram.

I'm tempted to just thumb down the release arm when pulling clipping slack, and let the rope run through the brake hand. The rope is still there in easy grasp. I think that the climber hand needs to be the conscious one, and that reversal worries me, especially for using a tube device instead, which I may refuse to do at least for a while. I do not have a good habit for pinching a rope to slide a hand, and am confused about that now.

I did do TR belay too, and switched back to those habits with no problem, which was a great relief for me. That's because I did develop habits. I hope that can happen with lead belay too; but it feels very complicated in comparison.

And I have a new question: what about commands from the leader? The climber wanted to concentrate only on what he was doing, without bothering to talk about it. There were places when I could not see his hands to know what to do. And he missed a clip, so if I had taken in on belay, he would have lost his slack and could have been thrown off balance by pulling up as if he had some. If I was responding to his commands, that sort of error would not happen. I thought we were told that most accidents are the result of poor communication, which means commands, doesn't it?

I see girlfriends put on lead belay first time out. I wouldn't do it without another true belay, and neither would the climber today with an inexperienced lead belayer. I did a mock lead too, only clipping the 'draws so he could only clip the rope, and man, lead is another realm of climbing imo. You can get hurt doing that!

.


shockabuku


Nov 4, 2011, 11:39 AM
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Rmsyll2 wrote:
There were three of us today, one who wanted to practice Sport lead. We hung top-rope for regular belay, and he did clip a rope on mock lead, with me practicing lead belay. The recommended method of cupping the brake strand while thumbing down the release arm felt very clumsy, with the rope snagging in the brake hand when curled as in the diagram.

I'm tempted to just thumb down the release arm when pulling clipping slack, and let the rope run through the brake hand. The rope is still there in easy grasp.

I don't understand the difference between the two options you covered there.

In reply to:
I think that the climber hand needs to be the conscious one

In concept, belaying with a Grigri or tube device aren't really much different. The brake hand controls whether or not the rope is fed into the device and takes up slack when needed while the other hand pulls slack. It takes some practice to be smooth. Most people have some amount of confusion when starting with an ATC also, some people don't seem to get past that.

In reply to:
, and that reversal worries me, especially for using a tube device instead, which I may refuse to do at least for a while. I do not have a good habit for pinching a rope to slide a hand, and am confused about that now.

When you're lead belaying (at least with a Grigri) you shouldn't need to pinch and slide. I adjust the amount of rope out but it's usually short amounts and I just shuffle my brake hand up the rope.

In reply to:
I did do TR belay too, and switched back to those habits with no problem, which was a great relief for me. That's because I did develop habits. I hope that can happen with lead belay too; but it feels very complicated in comparison.

And I have a new question: what about commands from the leader? The climber wanted to concentrate only on what he was doing, without bothering to talk about it. There were places when I could not see his hands to know what to do. And he missed a clip, so if I had taken in on belay, he would have lost his slack and could have been thrown off balance by pulling up as if he had some.

You should be watching your belayer for body movement clues that tell you what's going on as well as leaving some slack so there's some rope for the climber to have freedom from you pulling on him. This is something that's best learned from someone who knows what they're doing as it varies depending on terrain as well as where the climber is on the route.

In reply to:
If I was responding to his commands, that sort of error would not happen. I thought we were told that most accidents are the result of poor communication, which means commands, doesn't it?

Clipping commands are not necessary for an adequately trained climbing team.

In reply to:
I see girlfriends put on lead belay first time out. I wouldn't do it without another true belay, and neither would the climber today with an inexperienced lead belayer. I did a mock lead too, only clipping the 'draws so he could only clip the rope, and man, lead is another realm of climbing imo. You can get hurt doing that!

.

Yes, you can get hurt. Try to find someone to help you learn it the right way and hopefully you'll avoid that.


lena_chita
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Nov 4, 2011, 3:03 PM
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Rmsyll2 wrote:
There were three of us today, one who wanted to practice Sport lead. We hung top-rope for regular belay, and he did clip a rope on mock lead, with me practicing lead belay. The recommended method of cupping the brake strand while thumbing down the release arm felt very clumsy, with the rope snagging in the brake hand when curled as in the diagram.

I'm tempted to just thumb down the release arm when pulling clipping slack, and let the rope run through the brake hand. The rope is still there in easy grasp. I think that the climber hand needs to be the conscious one, and that reversal worries me, especially for using a tube device instead, which I may refuse to do at least for a while. I do not have a good habit for pinching a rope to slide a hand, and am confused about that now.

I am not quite sure from your description when you were doing, and what the "modification" that felt better was, but "I am tempted to just thumb down the release arm" doesn't sound right. IF YOU PRESS DOWN THE CAM, THE GRI_GRI WILL NOT LOCK. The PETZL method pretty much means that if the climber falls you cannot maintain that thumb press. The way a lot of people do use a gri-gri (incorrectly), it is possible to clamp down hard and not release the cam.

Yes, feeding the slack out will feel weird, and clumsy at first, but I would focus on practicing the method endorsed by PETZL, and not trying something else.



Rmsyll2 wrote:
And I have a new question: what about commands from the leader? The climber wanted to concentrate only on what he was doing, without bothering to talk about it. There were places when I could not see his hands to know what to do. And he missed a clip, so if I had taken in on belay, he would have lost his slack and could have been thrown off balance by pulling up as if he had some. If I was responding to his commands, that sort of error would not happen. I thought we were told that most accidents are the result of poor communication, which means commands, doesn't it?

The climber can call "clipping" as he is about to pull an armload of slack. But he doesn't have to. If he is within view and you are paying attention, you as a belayer can pretty much anticipate when he is going to be clipping, because you can either see your climber hanging the draw (which means that the rope will go next, lol), or see that he is within reach of a hanging draw.
All the other commands (slack, take, up-rope, tension, falling, watch me, etc.) also apply, but if the climber is within full view, he shouldn't ever need to yell slack or up-rope, and he really shouldn't need to yell falling or watch me. Some climbers prefer to communicate with the belayer, others prefer not to.

Oh, and with a climber on lead you should not "take in" the rope tightly if the climber is above the bolt, even if the climber erroneously yells "take".

In a situation of botched clip, like you describe above-, you take the excess slack in quickly (but not to the point of pulling tight, of course!), in case the climber falls, but stand ready to feed it right back out if he is going to attempt to clip again.

If you cannot see the climber, you just keep some slack in the system and feed the rope out as you see it getting tighter. Not much slack, I am not talking about a loop of slack on the ground in front of you, but enough that if the climber were going to make a long dynamic move the rope would not be pulling him. Out-of-sight climber is when the call of "clipping" by the climber would be very nice, if he wants to have a smooth clip.


jt512


Nov 4, 2011, 8:05 PM
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shockabuku wrote:
Clipping commands are not necessary for an adequately trained climbing team.

I disagree. If you're out of the belayer's sight, it is often good to call out the clip. Also, I almost always call out the clip when I'm climbing a route that already has the draws up. When you hang the draw yourself it signals the upcoming clip to the belayer. But when the draw is already up, the belayer doesn't get such a cue, and it is often difficult for the belayer to see you reach for your rope.

Jay


shockabuku


Nov 5, 2011, 2:44 AM
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jt512 wrote:
shockabuku wrote:
Clipping commands are not necessary for an adequately trained climbing team.

I disagree. If you're out of the belayer's sight, it is often good to call out the clip. Also, I almost always call out the clip when I'm climbing a route that already has the draws up. When you hang the draw yourself it signals the upcoming clip to the belayer. But when the draw is already up, the belayer doesn't get such a cue, and it is often difficult for the belayer to see you reach for your rope.

Jay

I'll grant that they can be useful, my point was that a climber and his/her belayer should be able to get by without them. There are occasions when both sight and sound don't work to your benefit, even sometimes on single pitch sport routes.


Rmsyll2


Nov 12, 2011, 2:14 PM
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Last weekend, two very experienced climbers were leading a 5.11 Sport route. They use the earlier method, noted in the slow video as thumb out and fingers gripping the cam arm from under. That is probably the method that dumped climbers from failing to release that full grip. However, they said that simply pulling the brake hand forward off the device would put the rope in brake situation (and the thumb out).

The pinching to slide a hand that I've seen is associated with also keeping the climber hand high, it seems. That position is ready to pull slack quickly for a fall, and that is attractive to me, but that is the sort of coordination I don't yet have enough practice with.

With another chance to practice, I am trending to the currently advised method of thumb in and only that thumb holding down the cam arm to give slack for pulling up the rope. I am not using the brake hand high, because that is bad for using tube devices, which I'm doing for TR belay to maybe help keep habits distinct. That partner did not call many commands either, and I'm getting better at anticipating and knowing how much slack for clipping, but only by watching. Feel doesn't mean much yet.

This is hard, for me; but it is how a lot of new climbers start belaying. Very glad I did not.

.
Attachments: BelayLd1 grip1.jpg (72.0 KB)
  BelayLd2 Slack.jpg (52.6 KB)
  BelayLd3 pinch1.jpg (66.9 KB)
  BelayLd4 pinch2.jpg (74.8 KB)


stoneguy


Nov 12, 2011, 4:02 PM
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I asked a similar question a while ago and found a few things of interest. The chick in the video "steps in" for part of her slack. Now I am trying two pulls and a step in for an aggressive leader. Also trying the advice of coiling very close by.
The other point that seemed to surface was that the fatter ropes can be sluggish, but catch very well, whereas a skinnier rope MAY skate thru for a bit before catching on a GG2. I opted to stick with the bigger rope.


rangerrob


Nov 12, 2011, 4:53 PM
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I've never been a fan of someone belaying me with a grirgi while I'm leading. I think it imparts a very static belay, which causes, among other things, a very hard fall. It also puts additional strain on the top piece of gear. It also encourages bad belaying practices. Okay, I'll stop now.


areyoumydude


Nov 12, 2011, 5:05 PM
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rangerrob wrote:
I've never been a fan of someone belaying me with a grirgi while I'm leading. I think it imparts a very static belay, which causes, among other things, a very hard fall. It also puts additional strain on the top piece of gear. It also encourages bad belaying practices. Okay, I'll stop now.

Yer doing it wrong.


rangerrob


Nov 12, 2011, 5:15 PM
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I'm not doing anythign wrong. i don't use one. However, there is no disputing the fact that grigris do not let near the amount of rope slide through the device as a plate or tube. The only dynamics in a grirgi belay are the movement of the belayer.

Aid climbing is a different scenario. I don't mind my belayer using a grigri when I am on a 2 or 3 hour lead


areyoumydude


Nov 12, 2011, 5:52 PM
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rangerrob wrote:
I'm not doing anythign wrong. i don't use one. However, there is no disputing the fact that grigris do not let near the amount of rope slide through the device as a plate or tube. The only dynamics in a grirgi belay are the movement of the belayer.

Aid climbing is a different scenario. I don't mind my belayer using a grigri when I am on a 2 or 3 hour lead

Do you really think a little slip through your belay device makes a difference?

It's fine if you don't like using them, but if you're trying to say it's safer to use a tube/plate than a grigri do to static loads and harder falls than yer doing it wrong.

Most of my falls have been caught using a grigri and they were as soft as the belayer made it. I've also had hard falls caught with an ATC by some traddie that didn't know how to give a dynamic belay.


chilli


Nov 12, 2011, 9:28 PM
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JimTitt wrote:
...As Bearbreeder says, that´s RC.com and the internet in general. Those that have some crusading message post about how Grigris are the work of Satan. Those who actually use them no interest in whether anyone else does so just don´t post but the sheer number of people out there with one tells a different story...

@ Rmsyll2:
I'm going to follow up a bit on what Jim and bearbreeder (I gotta wonder how that SN came about by the way) were saying. I'm one of those people who loves the GG2. I've had a sterling 10.1mm rope for a long time and I've had the GG2 since last winter. I've never had any problems yarding slack through and I'm not bothered by the way it lowers. I honestly don't understand the complaints, since I haven't experienced those problems (though YMMV).
FYI: I have always used the thumb pinch with both the old and new GriGri (as depicted in the video) and have not had any problems. Pinch the cam, let the rope slide through your brakehand, and then release the cam --> no problem. The only thing I tend to do differently is that I pinch with my index finger under the whole GriGri rather than just the lip. I'm not saying that people aren't entitled to their own opinions [except the guy below ;)]. I just figured I'd offer the other side of the coin.

By the way, I do NOT like (and never have liked) the method you photographed in your post about the "very experienced climbers leading a 5.11 Sport route." Pinching a thumb on the cam is easy, quick, and safer, IMO. "Safer" because all you have to do is maintain your brake hand on the rope and slide it away from your GriGri (thus releasing your thumb pinch) if the leader blows the clip and suddenly falls. It's one VERY simple movement that never involves releasing the brake strand.

Remember: when terrain allows, as soon as you and the leader are in a good position to do so (i.e. they're at a height where they won't land on your head), the single most effective means of quickly moving slack in/out of the system is stepping toward/away from the rock. This greatly reduces how much you have to feed through your belay device for the clip.

areyoumydude wrote:
...Most of my falls have been caught using a grigri and they were as soft as the belayer made it. I've also had hard falls caught with an ATC by some traddie that didn't know how to give a dynamic belay.
Hey now! You better watch yourself with those "traddie" comments, bucko. You might wind up bludgeoned by ham sammmies and eating cowbells for lunch (and other idle threats), you friggin traitor! ;)

areyoumydude wrote:
Do you really think a little slip through your belay device makes a difference?
It's fine if you don't like using them, but if you're trying to say it's safer to use a tube/plate than a grigri [due] to static loads and harder falls then yer doing it wrong.
Though, I think you're absolutely right with this comment. +1!
There was someone who actually measured slippage through tube devices vs. GriGris that concluded slippage to be quite negligible in either (unless otherwise puposefully modified by the belayer, of course).


(This post was edited by chilli on Nov 12, 2011, 9:49 PM)


Rmsyll2


Nov 14, 2011, 5:37 AM
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Another lead belay today, but I was mostly photoing the climber so did not get many of the belayer. He was using the second method of gripping the cam arm for slack to clip: the brake hand thumb over the top, but only two fingers under. He did not keep his climber hand high, that I noticed, and did the pinch to slide at the device. His feed motions seemed to be very short, as recommended.
Attachments: BelayLd2a pinch.jpg (62.1 KB)
  BelayLd2b feeding1.jpg (52.9 KB)
  BelayLd2c feeding2.jpg (44.2 KB)
  BelayLd2d Slack.jpg (47.9 KB)
  BelayLd2e SlackC.jpg (35.6 KB)


shockabuku


Nov 14, 2011, 2:40 PM
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Rmsyll2 wrote:
Another lead belay today, but I was mostly photoing the climber so did not get many of the belayer. He was using the second method of gripping the cam arm for slack to clip: the brake hand thumb over the top, but only two fingers under. He did not keep his climber hand high, that I noticed, and did the pinch to slide at the device. His feed motions seemed to be very short, as recommended.

They recommend you don't pinch under the body of the Grigri (as shown in your pictures) because then you may have a tendency to grip the thing and hold the cam open. If you do it right, you don't need to grip it anyway, the tension in pulling slack keeps the body of the Grigri tight against your brake hand thumb. While there is a learning curve to it, I think it is worth the extra hour (or less) of practice to learn to do it the "right" way.


rangerrob


Nov 15, 2011, 3:40 AM
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Fair enough dude. I'm just saying that I don't like people belaying me on lead with a grigri. Just not the right tool I think. Why opt for the heavy, expensive tool when can get the same or better result with a les expensive, lighter option? Just my opinion, not fact


areyoumydude


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Well if you ever make it out my way I'll be more than happy to give you a catch with your choice of belay device.


guangzhou


Nov 15, 2011, 7:40 AM
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rangerrob wrote:
Fair enough dude. I'm just saying that I don't like people belaying me on lead with a grigri. Just not the right tool I think. Why opt for the heavy, expensive tool when can get the same or better result with a les expensive, lighter option? Just my opinion, not fact


It's just a tool. If the person who's using it is proficient, you won't be able totell the difference between a Gri Gri, ATC, or Guide (Whatever) device when you are leading.

Used properly, they will all feed out slack and will all catch you properly.


rossross


Nov 15, 2011, 4:17 PM
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rangerrob wrote:
Fair enough dude. I'm just saying that I don't like people belaying me on lead with a grigri. Just not the right tool I think. Why opt for the heavy, expensive tool when can get the same or better result with a les expensive, lighter option? Just my opinion, not fact

There is a reason just about every "pro" climber uses a grigri, and its not the fact that they get it for free.

Its the only way to fly if you ask me.
(unless on bad gear)


(This post was edited by rossross on Nov 15, 2011, 4:18 PM)


Partner cracklover


Nov 15, 2011, 6:35 PM
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This:

Is no good. Squeezing the device like that is a bad idea.

GO


SylviaSmile


Nov 15, 2011, 6:57 PM
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rossross wrote:
rangerrob wrote:
Fair enough dude. I'm just saying that I don't like people belaying me on lead with a grigri. Just not the right tool I think. Why opt for the heavy, expensive tool when can get the same or better result with a les expensive, lighter option? Just my opinion, not fact

There is a reason just about every "pro" climber uses a grigri, and its not the fact that they get it for free.

Its the only way to fly if you ask me.
(unless on bad gear)

What is the reason? If I never learn how to use a grigri, will I be somehow deficient in my climbing skillset? Honestly wondering, because I currently just have a BD ATC-guide device, which I have been using for everything, including the gym.


fresh


Nov 15, 2011, 9:38 PM
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rangerrob wrote:
I'm not doing anythign wrong. i don't use one. However, there is no disputing the fact that grigris do not let near the amount of rope slide through the device as a plate or tube. The only dynamics in a grirgi belay are the movement of the belayer.

Aid climbing is a different scenario. I don't mind my belayer using a grigri when I am on a 2 or 3 hour lead
is there any actual evidence that belaying a leader on a trad route with a grigri creates significantly higher impact forces? I've heard the figure of 900lb to 1400lb of force required before a grigri slips vs 500lb for an ATC, but that's assuming a static belay. the rope and human involved in belaying should provide a sufficiently dynamic catch. does anyone have any idea of what the difference would be in a real world situation? (I searched, but only found endless, hilarious scuffles that may have involved jay.)


rangerrob


Nov 15, 2011, 9:45 PM
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Umm..Ross? What exactly is a pro climber? Is that anything like a pro basketball player? How about a pro football player? Do pro climbers get multi year contracts for hundreds of thousands of dollars? There is no such thing as a pro climber. The best that a climber can do is get their gear for free, and possibly get their trips paid for. Name one climber who is getting paid a salary for climbing stuff on their own?

I don't know of many top level climbers who are hauling up a grigris on big alpine routes. Colin Haley? Ueli Steck? Freddie Wilkinson? Rolando? Has anyone seen these guys on a big face with a grigri? I'd love to see the pictures. Hell I would doubt the Giri Giri boys even use one...and if anyone would it would be them!!


areyoumydude


Nov 15, 2011, 10:13 PM
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rangerrob wrote:
Name one climber who is getting paid a salary for climbing stuff on their own?

Here's two.




Rmsyll2


Nov 15, 2011, 11:55 PM
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Squeezing down the cam arm is necessary to give slack fast for the climber to pull up rope to clip. What the Petzl video calls the "classic" method squeezes with all the fingers wrapped around to the top, with the thumb under to make a full grip. That was shown in the first set of photos. In the second set, the belayer did keep the brake rope in his fingers, as advised. Two fingers under is not much to release, and there has to be something to squeeze against. The video shows just the thumb pressing down the arm, but pressing against what support? While practicing, pulling up the climber rope will locate and stabilize the device in the carabiner, to be pushing down with the thumb; but in use, that doesn't work for me. I found that the index finger can hook under the lip on the brake side. That works well when I'm practicing the motion; but during a climb, the device is flopping around and I can't aim that well. Today, belaying a Trad lead, I was gripping any way that happened.

I thought that seeing a clip about to happen, I could hold the brake hand low to push up slack for the climber hand to pull without locking, but it locked anyway. Sigh. This is hard for me. Trad is much more complicated to watch and provide for than Sport. Also much slower, so more tiring from looking up so long. Trad is also a lot more fun to second, having to reverse the placements, but again a lot more tiring, holding a stance to peer into a crack to figure how to get a tiny cam out without jamming it worse and maybe losing it.

A very wiggly learning curve, for me.

.


rangerrob


Nov 16, 2011, 1:42 AM
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I admit I don't know who the woman is, but Alex Honnold receives a salary to climb? From who?


guangzhou


Nov 16, 2011, 2:31 AM
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rangerrob wrote:
Umm..Ross? What exactly is a pro climber? Is that anything like a pro basketball player? How about a pro football player? Do pro climbers get multi year contracts for hundreds of thousands of dollars? There is no such thing as a pro climber. The best that a climber can do is get their gear for free, and possibly get their trips paid for. Name one climber who is getting paid a salary for climbing stuff on their own?

Patagonia pays salaries to it's pro climbers, so does the North Face. The german brother's freeing routes on El-cap get money from Audi. Petzl also has salaries for it's top performing sponsored athletes. I think BD does too, but not 100% sure.

Many of Europes tops climbers do indeed recieve very nice compensation from their sponsors.

I think the American climbing industry is also headed toward sponsorship payment not just gear. I bet TW gets paid something more than gear these days.

Also check out Sharma, definitely more than free gear there.

In reply to:
I don't know of many top level climbers who are hauling up a grigris on big alpine routes. Colin Haley? Ueli Steck? Freddie Wilkinson? Rolando? Has anyone seen these guys on a big face with a grigri? I'd love to see the pictures. Hell I would doubt the Giri Giri boys even use one...and if anyone would it would be them!!

The Gri Gri has been spotted many time on the big face of Patagonia, does that count?


(This post was edited by guangzhou on Nov 16, 2011, 2:33 AM)


shockabuku


Nov 16, 2011, 3:04 AM
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Rmsyll2 wrote:
Squeezing down the cam arm is necessary to give slack fast for the climber to pull up rope to clip. What the Petzl video calls the "classic" method squeezes with all the fingers wrapped around to the top, with the thumb under to make a full grip. That was shown in the first set of photos. In the second set, the belayer did keep the brake rope in his fingers, as advised. Two fingers under is not much to release, and there has to be something to squeeze against. The video shows just the thumb pressing down the arm, but pressing against what support? While practicing, pulling up the climber rope will locate and stabilize the device in the carabiner, to be pushing down with the thumb; but in use, that doesn't work for me. I found that the index finger can hook under the lip on the brake side. That works well when I'm practicing the motion; but during a climb, the device is flopping around and I can't aim that well. Today, belaying a Trad lead, I was gripping any way that happened.

...

Your statement (bolded above) is incorrect. You don't need to squeeze the device. I said it above, I'll try to be more clear now; when your non-brake hand pulls slack on the rope from the climber's side of the Grigri it should cause the Grigri to pull tight against your belay loop and no longer flop around. That tension lifts the Grigri up and allows you to apply your thumb to the hinge of the handle to slightly depress the cam and release it enough to pull rope through.


If you think this doesn't work then my writing is not clear enough or you're not doing it correctly. It is not the easiest thing to learn and if you don't coordinate it correctly the device will lock up.

You absolutely don't need to squeeze the body of the Grigri from both sides to pull slack.


shockabuku


Nov 16, 2011, 3:23 AM
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rangerrob wrote:
There is no such thing as a pro climber.

I would say that guides are pro climbers.

They may not make 6+ figure salaries - in a decade - but I think by and large they meet most other criteria for professional athletes.

I often think of climbing coaches and route setters as pro climbers in the older sense of club golf and tennis pros.


jt512


Nov 16, 2011, 3:41 AM
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rangerrob wrote:
Umm..Ross? What exactly is a pro climber?

Someone who makes his living from climbing.

In reply to:
Do pro climbers get multi year contracts for hundreds of thousands of dollars?

I understand from mutual acquaintances that Chris Sharma is pulling in $200K a year, primarily from product endorsements.

In reply to:
There is no such thing as a pro climber. The best that a climber can do is get their gear for free, and possibly get their trips paid for.

What's that rock rated that you've been living under?

Jay


SylviaSmile


Nov 16, 2011, 1:30 PM
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rangerrob wrote:
I admit I don't know who the woman is, but Alex Honnold receives a salary to climb? From who?

Steph Davis!


(This post was edited by SylviaSmile on Nov 16, 2011, 1:31 PM)


fresh


Nov 16, 2011, 2:00 PM
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so does anyone know how much more force will be put on the top piece when the belayer is using a grigri vs when they are using an ATC? I tried searching but all I got was a bunch of petty arguments.


lena_chita
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Nov 16, 2011, 3:26 PM
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SylviaSmile wrote:
rossross wrote:
rangerrob wrote:
Fair enough dude. I'm just saying that I don't like people belaying me on lead with a grigri. Just not the right tool I think. Why opt for the heavy, expensive tool when can get the same or better result with a les expensive, lighter option? Just my opinion, not fact

There is a reason just about every "pro" climber uses a grigri, and its not the fact that they get it for free.

Its the only way to fly if you ask me.
(unless on bad gear)

What is the reason? If I never learn how to use a grigri, will I be somehow deficient in my climbing skillset? Honestly wondering, because I currently just have a BD ATC-guide device, which I have been using for everything, including the gym.

Well, ANY TIME you pass up a chance to learn/practice something, you are, by definition, choosing to be/stay deficient in that skill.

But if there is a device that a lot of climbers use, and you have an opportunity to learn how to use it, wouldn't it make sense to learn how to use it, even if you choose not to use it on a regular basis? Just in case... Just so you can tell if a new partner you are about to trust your life to is using it correctly? Just so you can use it if your ATC is not available and the only option is your friends gri-gri?

I wouldn't say that never using a gri-gri will make you "deficient" as a climber. Obviously, there were plenty of great climbers whose entire climbing career unfolded before gri-gri's were ever out there.

But on a flip side, how many of those climbers of old who never used a gri-gri would have passed up an opportunity to use one if it HAD been available to them?

Some people are passionate about only one particular device. Some people are mostly climbing in the situation where a gri-gri won't work (can't do a 2-rope belay with a gri-gri, after all). But it always comes back to this: there is a reason why a majority of climbers with many years of climbing under their belt choose to use a gri-gri or other locking-assist devices in many situations, even though they are proficient with a tube-style device (or Munter hitch, or hip belay, for that matter). And that reason is simple: they tried it, and they liked it.


shockabuku


Nov 16, 2011, 3:41 PM
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fresh wrote:
so does anyone know how much more force will be put on the top piece when the belayer is using a grigri vs when they are using an ATC? I tried searching but all I got was a bunch of petty arguments.

Petzl used to have a fall force calculator but they seem to have gotten rid of it. There are some others around but some are clearly not correct (i.e. http://www.myoan.net/...t/climbforcecal.html, which doesn't even calculate the correct number for fall factor).

This one (http://www.livephysics.com/...-falling-object.html) might be able to give you an idea how much difference limited slip in an ATC vs. essentially no slip in a Grigri makes if 1. it actually has decent mechanics built into it and 2. you know how to do it. It's not going to give you a relevant numerical answer however.


rossross


Nov 16, 2011, 3:59 PM
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rangerrob wrote:
Umm..Ross? What exactly is a pro climber? Is that anything like a pro basketball player? How about a pro football player? Do pro climbers get multi year contracts for hundreds of thousands of dollars? There is no such thing as a pro climber. The best that a climber can do is get their gear for free, and possibly get their trips paid for. Name one climber who is getting paid a salary for climbing stuff on their own?

I don't know of many top level climbers who are hauling up a grigris on big alpine routes. Colin Haley? Ueli Steck? Freddie Wilkinson? Rolando? Has anyone seen these guys on a big face with a grigri? I'd love to see the pictures. Hell I would doubt the Giri Giri boys even use one...and if anyone would it would be them!!

*face palm* glad to see people have responded to this before I got a chance.


Partner cracklover


Nov 16, 2011, 5:14 PM
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fresh wrote:
so does anyone know how much more force will be put on the top piece when the belayer is using a grigri vs when they are using an ATC? I tried searching but all I got was a bunch of petty arguments.

I think I've seen testing, but can't find a working link right now.

The reality, though, is that it will vary tremendously depending upon the particulars of the situation.

The simple variables are these:
1 - In a typical fall, a gri-gri will not slip enough to appreciably lower the maximum force.
2 - Most friction devices will multiply the amount of force you can put on the rope by 5 - 8 times.

Already in #2, just based on the friction multiplier (type of device, high-friction or low friction mode, etc), you can see the huge variability involved.

But there's way more than that. Here are some of the additional components that factor into #2:

- You can put much less force on a skinny rope than a fat one before it starts slipping through your hands. So that 8 x multiplier could be 8 x 30lbs for a skinny, versus 8 x 60 for a fatty.
- A big strong guy may be able to hold two to three times the force of a smaller person.
- Leather gloves slightly lower the point at which the rope starts sliding (lowering the force) but radically increase your chances of maintaining control of a fall in which a lot of rope will slide.

Just based on the above, there are falls in which the gri-gri and the friction device could put the same force on the top piece, or the gri-gri could put way more force on it.

Then there are issues having nothing to do with #2. For example:

- Based on the rope's path around rock obstacles and through intermediate pieces of gear, the amount of force the belayer feels can be reduced to very low numbers. This is what the climber feels as rope drag. So the same fall might generate enough to cause the rope to start slipping through a friction device (lowering the force) or not to slip at all, just based on running over a roof.

- The belayer getting lifted by a hard fall may reduce the force felt by the top piece considerably. In some cases it might lower the force to below the point that would make a difference between a friction device and a gri-gri.

Sorry if that didn't answer your question the way you'd like.

What it boils down to is that there are certainly many situations in which using a gri-gri versus a standard tube device could mean the difference between whether or not a top piece fails, and other cases in which it would make no difference.

GO


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Nov 16, 2011, 5:22 PM
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Rmsyll2 wrote:
Squeezing down the cam arm is necessary to give slack fast for the climber to pull up rope to clip. What the Petzl video calls the "classic" method squeezes with all the fingers wrapped around to the top, with the thumb under to make a full grip. That was shown in the first set of photos. In the second set, the belayer did keep the brake rope in his fingers, as advised. Two fingers under is not much to release, and there has to be something to squeeze against. The video shows just the thumb pressing down the arm, but pressing against what support? While practicing, pulling up the climber rope will locate and stabilize the device in the carabiner, to be pushing down with the thumb; but in use, that doesn't work for me. I found that the index finger can hook under the lip on the brake side. That works well when I'm practicing the motion; but during a climb, the device is flopping around and I can't aim that well. Today, belaying a Trad lead, I was gripping any way that happened.

I thought that seeing a clip about to happen, I could hold the brake hand low to push up slack for the climber hand to pull without locking, but it locked anyway. Sigh. This is hard for me. Trad is much more complicated to watch and provide for than Sport. Also much slower, so more tiring from looking up so long. Trad is also a lot more fun to second, having to reverse the placements, but again a lot more tiring, holding a stance to peer into a crack to figure how to get a tiny cam out without jamming it worse and maybe losing it.

A very wiggly learning curve, for me.

.

Many climbers before you have been able to get the technique. It does take practice. However if you cannot master it, lead belaying with the gri-gri may not be for you. Better to stick with a device you can operate perfectly every single time.

GO


rangerrob


Nov 16, 2011, 6:56 PM
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Hey if all that is true, then I stand humbled and corrected. However I would still argue that there is no such thing as a pro climber. To me, the pursuit of the essence of climbing is seriously degraded when done for money and fame. To me, climbing is about the opposite of makign a living. Guides are making a living by guiding, not climbing. There IS a difference, however subtle you may think that difference is.

Of course these are all my opinions, and opinions are like assholes...everyone has one.

Sorry I couldn't identify Steph Davis. I am ashamed and humiliated, and I shall have to flog myself for not recognizing a "pro" climber immediately.


rossross


Nov 16, 2011, 8:16 PM
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rangerrob wrote:
Hey if all that is true, then I stand humbled and corrected. However I would still argue that there is no such thing as a pro climber. To me, the pursuit of the essence of climbing is seriously degraded when done for money and fame. To me, climbing is about the opposite of makign a living. Guides are making a living by guiding, not climbing. There IS a difference, however subtle you may think that difference is.

Of course these are all my opinions, and opinions are like assholes...everyone has one.

Sorry I couldn't identify Steph Davis. I am ashamed and humiliated, and I shall have to flog myself for not recognizing a "pro" climber immediately.

I think you are looking at this a little backwards. I would think that the majority of "pro" climbers do not do what they do for the "money and fame" as you say. I would bet most do it for "the pursuit of the essence of climbing", and to make enough money to support thier pursuit.

There will obviously be specific examples to the contrary. Just like the specific examples you pointed out such as "who hauls up a grigri on big alpine routes" and "guiding is not climbing". I think the original point of the post was related to grigri use in single pitch and multipitch rock routes.

Watch doseage 5 where "pro" climber Tommy C is belaying Beth R on Meltdown (5.14 ?). Its a thin crack with small gear, can you guess what belay device he is using?


marc801


Nov 16, 2011, 8:29 PM
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rangerrob wrote:
Hey if all that is true, then I stand humbled and corrected. However I would still argue that there is no such thing as a pro climber. To me, the pursuit of the essence of climbing is seriously degraded when done for money and fame. To me, climbing is about the opposite of makign a living. Guides are making a living by guiding, not climbing. There IS a difference, however subtle you may think that difference is.
That is the most ridiculous bit of semantic nit-picking BS I've heard in a long time - perhaps ever. "Pursuit of the essence..."? WTF? Dude, they're making all their income by climbing. I can't think of a clearer definition of professional climber. Climbing for the sake of money and fame is well over 100 years old. And guiding isn't climbing? I'd think most guides would disagree with you. Have the painkillers for your ankle clouded your rational thinking ability?

rangerrob wrote:
Of course these are all my opinions, and opinions are like assholes...everyone has one.
Well, yeah, there's that. Yours is wrong.

rangerrob wrote:
Sorry I couldn't identify Steph Davis. I am ashamed and humiliated, and I shall have to flog myself for not recognizing a "pro" climber immediately.
Sure, we may not immediately recognize ever single famous climber, but Steph has been around long enough, with a high enough profile that it's reasonable to expect most climbers to recognize her. Just like Sharma, Hill, Rands, Rodden, Kauk, Caldwell and quite a number of others. If you didn't, that's fine too. Just accept it gracefully. No need to leave puddles of dripping sarcasm all over the place and drag your butthurt across the rug.


fresh


Nov 17, 2011, 12:03 AM
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cracklover wrote:
Sorry if that didn't answer your question the way you'd like.

What it boils down to is that there are certainly many situations in which using a gri-gri versus a standard tube device could mean the difference between whether or not a top piece fails, and other cases in which it would make no difference.

GO
no, that was perfect. incidentally it also pretty much matches my own guesses.

I was talking with one of the big name NH guides about it, and he said he prefers a grigri almost all the time when climbing. you also see the grigri being used for trad belaying in climbing videos, even when the gear is marginal. but there's still a decent amount of fervor against using a grigri for trad climbing. I'm not sure if it's justified.

my own feeling is that as long as you can give a dynamic catch, it's all the same anyway. maybe there's a marginally greater force with a grigri, but it's probably not enough to matter.

one situation where the grigri would certainly cause more force is in a factor 2 fall. but then, most people would need a death grip (and gloves) to make that catch anyway with an ATC.

more opinions welcome! especially those that challenge my gut feelings on the matter.


(This post was edited by fresh on Nov 17, 2011, 12:05 AM)


guangzhou


Nov 17, 2011, 12:53 AM
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cracklover wrote:
Rmsyll2 wrote:
Squeezing down the cam arm is necessary to give slack fast for the climber to pull up rope to clip. What the Petzl video calls the "classic" method squeezes with all the fingers wrapped around to the top, with the thumb under to make a full grip. That was shown in the first set of photos. In the second set, the belayer did keep the brake rope in his fingers, as advised. Two fingers under is not much to release, and there has to be something to squeeze against. The video shows just the thumb pressing down the arm, but pressing against what support? While practicing, pulling up the climber rope will locate and stabilize the device in the carabiner, to be pushing down with the thumb; but in use, that doesn't work for me. I found that the index finger can hook under the lip on the brake side. That works well when I'm practicing the motion; but during a climb, the device is flopping around and I can't aim that well. Today, belaying a Trad lead, I was gripping any way that happened.

I thought that seeing a clip about to happen, I could hold the brake hand low to push up slack for the climber hand to pull without locking, but it locked anyway. Sigh. This is hard for me. Trad is much more complicated to watch and provide for than Sport. Also much slower, so more tiring from looking up so long. Trad is also a lot more fun to second, having to reverse the placements, but again a lot more tiring, holding a stance to peer into a crack to figure how to get a tiny cam out without jamming it worse and maybe losing it.

A very wiggly learning curve, for me.

.

Many climbers before you have been able to get the technique. It does take practice. However if you cannot master it, lead belaying with the gri-gri may not be for you. Better to stick with a device you can operate perfectly every single time.

GO

Like all things, the operator should be smarter than the equipment he is operating. In this case, the climber should have an IQ higher than a Gri Gri.


guangzhou


Nov 17, 2011, 1:07 AM
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rangerrob wrote:
Hey if all that is true, then I stand humbled and corrected. However I would still argue that there is no such thing as a pro climber. To me, the pursuit of the essence of climbing is seriously degraded when done for money and fame. To me, climbing is about the opposite of makign a living. Guides are making a living by guiding, not climbing. There IS a difference, however subtle you may think that difference is.

Guide makes a living by guiding, climbing guides need to know how to climb to do this. This makes them climbers who climb to earn money.

A professional in any field is someone who earn a living for the activity they are doing. Even the top climbers who earn money for climbing are still doing it because they love to climb. For one, they could reach that level of climbing without putting in the time and effort first.

If someone reaches a level of climbing that someone is willing to pay them to climb, good for them.Same is true of any other activity someone want to do.

In reply to:
Of course these are all my opinions, and opinions are like assholes...everyone has one.

You love to defend your words with this is my opinions. Maybe it's because society as been teaching you and many others that by stating that this is your opinion or your feelings, people should speak out against you. Personally, I could care less whether you tell me it's your opinion or not. I either agree or I don't. I doubt you sit around typing other other people's opinions in the first place. When you ,or any other user, post something I assume it's their opinion and not someone else.

In reply to:
Sorry I couldn't identify Steph Davis. I am ashamed and humiliated, and I shall have to flog myself for not recognizing a "pro" climber immediately.

Whatever. Recognizing a pro climber or not isn't important. Plenty of climbers can't. Some are more easy to identify than others. Pro climbers are definitely not what I consider famous. Ask you non-climbing co-worker to name five top climbers and see how far they get. Then ask them to name 5 top football, soccer, ot tennis players and think about the results.


rangerrob


Nov 17, 2011, 7:55 PM
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Very well Gonzo, I completely disagree with you. I can state an opinion, or I can state a fact. A lot of people, including myself in the past, have stated opinions and tried to claim them as facts. When I qualify my statements by saying this is my opinion, I'm telling people like you that I don't intend to claim this as fact.

I know plenty of guides. I've actually started the process myself of becoming acredited with the AMGA, and the main thing I have learned throughout taking those courses is that I am not out climbing, I'm out guiding, and there is s difference. Risks that my friends and I might take while out climbing together I would never consider taking while guiding a client. I lead pitches differently, I place geardifferently, I evaluate hazards differently. Of course climbing is involved...durr. yes, I concur that it may be semantics, but isn't most of the drivel here on this website semantics to someone or other?

I made a stupid statement about climbers not being paid salaries to climb. I didn't do any research. I was talking out of my ass, and I got called on it. The rest, I stand by.

RR


areyoumydude


Nov 17, 2011, 8:26 PM
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rangerrob wrote:
I am not out climbing, I'm out guiding,..... Of course climbing is involved...
RR


olderic


Nov 17, 2011, 11:04 PM
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marc801 wrote:
rangerrob wrote:
Hey if all that is true, then I stand humbled and corrected. However I would still argue that there is no such thing as a pro climber. To me, the pursuit of the essence of climbing is seriously degraded when done for money and fame. To me, climbing is about the opposite of makign a living. Guides are making a living by guiding, not climbing. There IS a difference, however subtle you may think that difference is.
That is the most ridiculous bit of semantic nit-picking BS I've heard in a long time - perhaps ever. "Pursuit of the essence..."? WTF? Dude, they're making all their income by climbing. I can't think of a clearer definition of professional climber. Climbing for the sake of money and fame is well over 100 years old. And guiding isn't climbing? I'd think most guides would disagree with you. Have the painkillers for your ankle clouded your rational thinking ability?

Actually Rob has the upper hand here and is more correct. There are darn few climbers earning their keep for just climbing. The examples sited - Sharma etc. - are earning $$ through product endorsements or as manufacture's reps. Those are the lucky ones - the next tier down are earning $$ by pedaling their books, giving lectures and so on. Below that comes the guides - climbing ability isn't even one of the top 3 things a guide needs.

The closest you could come to making a living by just climbing would be if there was enough $$$ in comps to get by on. There isn't plus that opens up the whole question as to whether comp climbing is climbing.

The biggest names in traditional athletes may make the majority of their $$$ through endorsements and personal appearances - but they still make a lot just playing their game. So I'll go back to Rob's point - name me a climber who is getting paid for just climbing - not for climbing with Evolve shoes. Not for climbing with BD gear. Not for playing step and fetchit at a trade show when master calls...


marc801


Nov 17, 2011, 11:17 PM
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olderic wrote:
The biggest names in traditional athletes may make the majority of their $$$ through endorsements and personal appearances - but they still make a lot just playing their game. So I'll go back to Rob's point - name me a climber who is getting paid for just climbing - not for climbing with Evolve shoes. Not for climbing with BD gear. Not for playing step and fetchit at a trade show when master calls...
Your example fails your own test. The biggest names in traditional sports aren't making money "just playing the game" - they're making money by playing for the Rangers or the Jets or the Giants. Playing for a sports franchise is basically the same as a pro climber being sponsored and paid by a gear manufacturer.


olderic


Nov 17, 2011, 11:26 PM
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marc801 wrote:
olderic wrote:
The biggest names in traditional athletes may make the majority of their $$$ through endorsements and personal appearances - but they still make a lot just playing their game. So I'll go back to Rob's point - name me a climber who is getting paid for just climbing - not for climbing with Evolve shoes. Not for climbing with BD gear. Not for playing step and fetchit at a trade show when master calls...
Your example fails your own test. The biggest names in traditional sports aren't making money "just playing the game" - they're making money by playing for the Rangers or the Jets or the Giants. Playing for a sports franchise is basically the same as a pro climber being sponsored and paid by a gear manufacturer.

Nope. Can't compare to team sports. Use an individual sport which is what climbing is. Tennis, golf, boxing. Now even there I'll admit that the athletes still are constrained by certain expectations of the tour they are on etc. The problem is that the rewards in all those cases are based on competition results. Most people would say that pure climbing is not about competition. But no one is gong to get paid for just climbing in a vacuum. They are going to have to do something of worth to some sponsor to get paid. The closest yo could come wold be to be a trustafarian with a rich daddy.


redlude97


Nov 17, 2011, 11:41 PM
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olderic wrote:
marc801 wrote:
olderic wrote:
The biggest names in traditional athletes may make the majority of their $$$ through endorsements and personal appearances - but they still make a lot just playing their game. So I'll go back to Rob's point - name me a climber who is getting paid for just climbing - not for climbing with Evolve shoes. Not for climbing with BD gear. Not for playing step and fetchit at a trade show when master calls...
Your example fails your own test. The biggest names in traditional sports aren't making money "just playing the game" - they're making money by playing for the Rangers or the Jets or the Giants. Playing for a sports franchise is basically the same as a pro climber being sponsored and paid by a gear manufacturer.

Nope. Can't compare to team sports. Use an individual sport which is what climbing is. Tennis, golf, boxing. Now even there I'll admit that the athletes still are constrained by certain expectations of the tour they are on etc. The problem is that the rewards in all those cases are based on competition results. Most people would say that pure climbing is not about competition. But no one is gong to get paid for just climbing in a vacuum. They are going to have to do something of worth to some sponsor to get paid. The closest yo could come wold be to be a trustafarian with a rich daddy.
Did you really just bring up golf? Tiger Woods makes the majority of his money through endorsements and hasn't won a thing in years. He certainly isn't living on his earnings


rangerrob


Nov 17, 2011, 11:52 PM
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yes redlude, but the point thayt Eric is making is that Tiger can play golf, and earn money if he wins the competition. The whole argument that a football player is getting paid to play FOR a team is silly I think. They are getting paid to play the game. Is there a climber out there that earns a salary for just climbing?

Thanks for backing me up Eric! I was beginning to feel like a dunce. I'm used to it, but I still don't like it!

This probably deserves it's own thread so that this thread can go back to the original topic...those stupid and heavy grigris.


olderic


Nov 17, 2011, 11:55 PM
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redlude97 wrote:
Did you really just bring up golf? Tiger Woods makes the majority of his money through endorsements and hasn't won a thing in years. He certainly isn't living on his earnings

If you read the last paragraph of my first response I already said that.

Maybe competition is never gong to be a good analogy unless yo limit it to competition climbers - an these are not the ones that people are thinking of here (hell Rob might have a hard time id-ing SD but just about everyone here would not recognize most of the people on the podium after a world cup climbing comp).

My point is that it is a fallacy if you think all these "pro" climbers are making a living just by climbing. They typically are hustling pretty hard doing non climbing things to make a living way below the acceptable level most people here would require. It's not sustainable for them in the long run. How many here would really trade places with Fred Beckey? The only way you are going to get by above the poverty level just climbing is if you are independently wealthy. Otherwise - if you are lucky - you will have some options as to who you are going to prostitute yourself out to in order to get by.


guangzhou


Nov 18, 2011, 1:07 AM
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rangerrob wrote:
yes redlude, but the point thayt Eric is making is that Tiger can play golf, and earn money if he wins the competition. The whole argument that a football player is getting paid to play FOR a team is silly I think. They are getting paid to play the game. Is there a climber out there that earns a salary for just climbing?

Tiger makes more money from Endorsement than winning, especially lately. He is making money because he is a household name in a sport that doesn't have many.

In reply to:
Thanks for backing me up Eric! I was beginning to feel like a dunce. I'm used to it, but I still don't like it!

This probably deserves it's own thread so that this thread can go back to the original topic...those stupid and heavy grigris.

Conversation evolves.


Name me a single professional athlete just playing a sport that is making money and we can start from there. I would say TC is making money without competing and just climbing. So are the HUbber Brothers, that even get money from Audi and I think a big Watch company.

Again, name a single athlete, including a professional football player who don't have to make appearances off the field to earn their money.

On the guiding front, I will agree that climbing guides are not professional athletes, but they are indeed professional climbers.

I've been with AMGA a long time, one of the key things AMGA teaches is that climbing guides are professionals. That is the whole point of AMGA's charter, to establish Guiding as a professions with professional standards in America. (Not big news here that I don't completely agree with AMGA's mission)

AMGA loves to talk about AMGA certification being the corner stone of the proffessional climbing guide, this I don't agree with. I know many very professional guides who have nothing to do with the Association.


rangerrob


Nov 18, 2011, 1:58 AM
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So let's take the sports end of this out of it. One could argue that Clim bing isnt even a sport. What does it mean to be a professional? To be paid for a service or activity? A plumber performs a service and someone pays him. A bank teller processes bak transactions and gets paid for the actions. So if I were a professional climber some person or company would pay me to walk up to any random crag, flake out a rope, and climb a 2 pitch 5.10. This is what I mean by being a professional climber.

Would Black Diamond pay some rock Star to go to the cliff five days a week and do the same route over and over again, like a worker in a factory?


guangzhou


Nov 18, 2011, 2:25 AM
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rangerrob wrote:
So let's take the sports end of this out of it. One could argue that Clim bing isnt even a sport. What does it mean to be a professional? To be paid for a service or activity? A plumber performs a service and someone pays him. A bank teller processes bak transactions and gets paid for the actions.

A bank teller is a bank teller, no really a professional banker. With your definition, you have just listed a whole lot of new professionals to the climbing industry. Including climbing gym staff, guides, and other non-athletes. In 99% of cases, I agree these are professionals.

A professional banker is someone who earns his money via the banking industry. The top professional wouldn't work in the banking industry for free. Most are also paid on a commission style or bonus system based on performance. (like a professional climber looking for endorsement, the better they are at performing, the more they earn.)

In reply to:
So if I were a professional climber some person or company would pay me to walk up to any random crag, flake out a rope, and climb a 2 pitch 5.10. This is what I mean by being a professional climber.

So by your definition, a professional banker is someone who walks into any random banks and sells the same bank product to the same person over and over. A professional educator is someone who walks into the exact same classroom and teaches the exact same lesson every single day?

Tommy Caldwell, Hubber and Chris Sharma come to mind here. They pick their own project and climb them for as long as they want. They both receive salaries/stipends from a climbing company for doing this. They also receive endorsements. They are professional climber on the athlete side of the coin.

Guides definitely get paid to climb the same easy route route over and over. name another sport where an individual can earn a living from their sport for such a low performance level. Guides are climbing professional on the service side of the coin.

In reply to:
Would Black Diamond pay some rock Star to go to the cliff five days a week and do the same route over and over again, like a worker in a factory?

A professional climbers job is to perform at high level. Would a professional athlete be paid a multi-million dollar contract to play on the community field.

As for BD paying some rock star to go to the cliff five days a week, you should check out where TC has been living for the last month.


olderic


Nov 18, 2011, 2:46 AM
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I guess part of the quibbling is about about whether being a "pro" means you earn your living from it vs. get some compensation - free t-shirt - woo-hoo from it. To earn your living it petty much needs to be a recognized "profession: for you to be a :pro: - although genius is often about inventing new professions. But I think it is far fetched to think that just climbing is going to be a profession. What is the value of someone just flaking their (non branded) rope, lacing up their (non branded) shoes and just climbing? All your examples are about providing a real tangible service. TC will come down from the latest Dawn Wall endeavor with tons of photos with his sponsors gear in them, make continuous blog entries thanking his sponsors and so on. Working his butt off with non climbing endeavors.

But if you want to define a "pro" as someone who gets some compensation of any form - then yeah there are some who are pro climbers with no obligations.

Again - don't get hung up on guiding as an argument. Being a good successful guide has very little to do with climbing. The average graduate from a state teacher's college will be a better guide then the average world cup climbing competitor.


Partner robdotcalm


Nov 18, 2011, 5:45 AM
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Don't mean to interrupt things, but this is back on topic.

Here are some answers to questions posed in this thread.

I have found only one website that tested forces generated by Grigri versus those generated by an ATC. It's Geir Hundal’s site

http://www.geir.com/mythbuster.html

The Grigri generates more force. Visit the site for details, but here’s Geir’s bottom line:

“The small difference between the lower end of the gear's strength range and the forces we measured make it clear that there is a narrow margin between what the [traditional] gear can sustain and the forces that will be placed on if a fall occurs. Using a GriGri for a belay significantly narrows this margin because of its design. For this reason, a device which allows the rope to slip more easily through the device (such as an ATC) is a safer choice for traditional climbing.”

A year and a half ago Petzl had this on their website.

“Belay device for 10 to 11 mm (9.7 mm is acceptable) CE (EN 892)
and/or UIAA certified dynamic single ropes (core + sheath).
The GRIGRI is designed for indoor wall climbing or for rock climbing
on well-protected routes where anchors meet the EN/UIAA standard
(25 kN). It can be used to belay and lower a leader or a second.
It should not be used for mountaineering or adventure climbing’

I can no longer find that warning on their website. A Google search led to Petzl’s German website showing that this missing quote was still there. Curious.

However, even more curious is what Petzl is now saying:

http://www.petzl.com/...ice-assisted-braking

“Wed, 09/03/2011 - 17:39 — community_manager
Hello Nicholas,
Yes both tools Grigri 1 and Grigri 2 can be used for belaying in trad climbing with a single rope. We remind you that the major factors which reduce impact force on anchors are : the performance of your rope, the motion of the belayer, the friction of the rope in the gear and on the rock. the movement of the rope through the belay device is a minor factor. Never attach a grigri directly to an anchor to belay a leader.
Thank you for your interest “

The answer lacks quantification and ignores the effects on marginal placements and high forces that can be generated in falls near the anchor in multi-pitch climbing. I’ll be asking Petzl how they reconcile their current recommendations with their earlier warnings.

I’m not persuaded by the fact that top-rated climbers use the Grigri on routes with marginal gear or on multi-pitch climbs. I’m more interested in saving my own ass so that I do not use the Grigri in these circumstances.


Gratias et valete bene!
RobertusPunctumPacificus


bearbreeder


Nov 18, 2011, 6:03 AM
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a bit off topic ... but the mammut smart is designed to let a bit of slip in for trad/ice/alpine ...

IMO the mammut smart has some of the quibles of a gri gri 2 (works best with thinner ropes, need to have rope properly flaked/stacked, etc) ... but at half the price and weight

the alpine smart also allows you to rap 2 strands, autoblock, etc .. again at half the price and less weight

its not perfect ... but IMO its easier and more intuitive than a gri gri ... and mechanically much simpler ... yr brake hand shouldnt really come off the rope at all intuitively



The Smart Alpine brakes the fall
dynamically, meaning that a small amount of rope slips through the device – gently
braking the fall before the rope is finally locked in the device. This lowers the impact
on the fallen climber and the equipment.


http://www.mammut.ch/...ine+Instructions.pdf


(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Nov 18, 2011, 6:06 AM)


guangzhou


Nov 18, 2011, 6:32 AM
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olderic wrote:
I guess part of the quibbling is about about whether being a "pro" means you earn your living from it vs. get some compensation - free t-shirt - woo-hoo from it. To earn your living it petty much needs to be a recognized "profession: for you to be a :pro: - although genius is often about inventing new professions. But I think it is far fetched to think that just climbing is going to be a profession.

It's not far fetched, it's already happening. I agree climbers still have to market their efforts, accomplishments, and seek out endorsements, but they are making the income because of what they accomplish while climbing. (I committed guiding as asked.)

Sharma doesn't guide, he earn all his money because of his climbing. TC doesn't guide or write books, he makes all his money because of his climbing accomplishments. Both get money from their sponsors, both get free gear too.

America has this attitude that being paid to climb would devalue the sport, it's not prominent worldwide. The French Government has professional climbers working them. What about the climbing Rangers within the American National park service. Not many of them, but they earn 100 percent of their money for their knowledge of climbing.

Professional athletes all make real money outside of their paycheck via endorsement. Most don't have to do self marketing because the market for other sports has much more money, so some professional have dedicated their lives to chasing money so the pro can focus on their sport. Climbing in America is already seeing some of these pro enter the climbing world to help climbers market themselves.

Many professional work contract to contract and don't earn a paycheck from on employer, but instead earn smaller consulting fees from various sources.

In reply to:
What is the value of someone just flaking their (non branded) rope, lacing up their (non branded) shoes and just climbing? All your examples are about providing a real tangible service.

What the value of a man throwing a non-branded football on a no name feild with no spectators? What's the value of a driver racing a no name car around a track? Sports, unlike other professions, earn based on what the fan/end user base is willing to support.

In reply to:
TC will come down from the latest Dawn Wall endeavor with tons of photos with his sponsors gear in them, make continuous blog entries thanking his sponsors and so on. Working his butt off with non climbing endeavors.

The photographer will make more on the images than Tommy, that's for sure. Blog entries and other things that get him noticed is called marketing himself, something an athlete needs to do regardless of the sport they perform. If climbing had a wider audience, maybe a publicist would be writing those blog entries. Look at the recent soccer players who just lost their careers and endorsement because of what they TWITTED.

As a distributor of a couple companies, I know for sure that top end climbers earn money when they sign up for sponsorship deals.

In Europe, national climbing team members also earn salaries, so do many of Asia's National Climbing team members. (From tax dollars)

In reply to:
But if you want to define a "pro" as someone who gets some compensation of any form - then yeah there are some who are pro climbers with no obligations.

The problem is that you actually believe top climbers are not being paid buy the companies they are representing, for this you are wrong. We're also seeing non-climbing companies starting to sponsor climbers.

In reply to:
Again - don't get hung up on guiding as an argument. Being a good successful guide has very little to do with climbing. The average graduate from a state teacher's college will be a better guide then the average world cup climbing competitor.

I never said anything about needing to be a top climber to guide. I simply said that someone who earns his income as a climbing guide falls into the professional status. Not a professional climbing athlete for sure, but a professional for sure.

As for a graduate of a education program being a better guide, in most cases, I agree with you.


guangzhou


Nov 18, 2011, 6:54 AM
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robdotcalm wrote:
Don't mean to interrupt things, but this is back on topic.

Here are some answers to questions posed in this thread.

I have found only one website that tested forces generated by Grigri versus those generated by an ATC. It's Geir Hundal’s site

http://www.geir.com/mythbuster.html

The Grigri generates more force. Visit the site for details, but here’s Geir’s bottom line:

“The small difference between the lower end of the gear's strength range and the forces we measured make it clear that there is a narrow margin between what the [traditional] gear can sustain and the forces that will be placed on if a fall occurs. Using a GriGri for a belay significantly narrows this margin because of its design. For this reason, a device which allows the rope to slip more easily through the device (such as an ATC) is a safer choice for traditional climbing.”

A year and a half ago Petzl had this on their website.

A year and a half ago, now Petzl has more info and thinks it's safe to climb Trad with a Gri Gri. I am sure every belay device on the market has slightly different forces. Of course, I am not sure how to conduct an experiment that takes all the variables in consideration.

In reply to:
“Belay device for 10 to 11 mm (9.7 mm is acceptable) CE (EN 892)
and/or UIAA certified dynamic single ropes (core + sheath).
The GRIGRI is designed for indoor wall climbing or for rock climbing
on well-protected routes where anchors meet the EN/UIAA standard
(25 kN). It can be used to belay and lower a leader or a second.
It should not be used for mountaineering or adventure climbing’

I can no longer find that warning on their website. A Google search led to Petzl’s German website showing that this missing quote was still there. Curious.

Again, when the product was new, they were being overly cautious, now with more data, they agree the Gri Gri is safe. The trad gear I use is genrally EN and UIAA tested anyways.

In reply to:
However, even more curious is what Petzl is now saying:

http://www.petzl.com/...ice-assisted-braking

“Wed, 09/03/2011 - 17:39 — community_manager
Hello Nicholas,
Yes both tools Grigri 1 and Grigri 2 can be used for belaying in trad climbing with a single rope. We remind you that the major factors which reduce impact force on anchors are : the performance of your rope, the motion of the belayer, the friction of the rope in the gear and on the rock. the movement of the rope through the belay device is a minor factor. Never attach a grigri directly to an anchor to belay a leader.
Thank you for your interest “

The answer lacks quantification and ignores the effects on marginal placements and high forces that can be generated in falls near the anchor in multi-pitch climbing. I’ll be asking Petzl how they reconcile their current recommendations with their earlier warnings.

Marginal placements by definition are more likely to pull when hit with any impact force. They answered the question, is the gri gri a safe belay device for gear protected climbing, yes it is. Marginal gear near the belay is like to pull with an ATC too.

In my experience, the lack of rope will play a greater role in a piece popping near the belay then the Gri Gri will. I've been belaying gear-protected routes on the gri Gri for about a decade. Can’t think of any gear popping on me because of it.

In reply to:
I’m not persuaded by the fact that top-rated climbers use the Grigri on routes with marginal gear or on multi-pitch climbs. I’m more interested in saving my own ass so that I do not use the Grigri in these circumstances.

Gratias et valete bene!
RobertusPunctumPacificus

I doubt you could be persuaded by anyone, you refuse to accept reality that has been clearly shown. Top rated climbers are taking repeated falls on small gear with no gear being pulled because the Gri Gris being used. That’s a fact. Same is true with non Gri Gri devices.

Is the Gri Gri Safe for gear routes, yes. Is the Gri Gri the best belay for all situations, not really. I do know that my partner caught me taking a 30ft foot on a #3 peanut using a Gri Gri. I am sure she would have caught me on an ATC too.

Maybe the issue isn’t the Gri Gri but the lack of trust in your gear placements. I can’t think of a time when I told my belayer, oh, for this routes you need to belay me on this or that belay device because the gear is blah blah.

If the weigth of the Gri Gri is the big issue, fine, but maybe you should reconsider the route yu choose if the weight of the Gri Gri is all that prevents you from being successful.

The gri gri is a tool, nothing more, nothing less. I use it for sport ,trad and aid. I also use it as a back-up when I jumar. It’s my tool of course when rap-bolting a route too.

My wife, in general, prefers to belay leads with another device, but she does use the Gri Gri from time to time and getting more confortable with it. She loves the Gri Gri 2.


(This post was edited by guangzhou on Nov 18, 2011, 7:30 AM)


Partner cracklover


Nov 18, 2011, 4:21 PM
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guangzhou wrote:
Marginal placements by definition are more likely to pull when hit with any impact force. They answered the question, is the gri gri a safe belay device for gear protected climbing, yes it is. Marginal gear near the belay is like to pull with an ATC too.

I think you strongly overstate your case.

Last weekend I was belaying my wife as she led up a route in Indian Creek a day after it rained. I knew the route was going to be very hard for her, particularly the first 30 feet of it. I also knew that I outweigh her by a lot, and with the rope running straight, there would be no friction from the rock or gear.

For that lead on that day, I am 100% certain that my choosing a device that slips at a lower load added a meaningful level of safety to my belay. I really couldn't care less if you Guangzou, and every professional climber on Earth belays with a gri-gri all the time. I've read deeply enough to understand the forces involved, the failure modes, and the consequences. And beyond a doubt in my mind, there is a fall my wife could have taken that day that might have led to very severe consequences had I been belaying with a gri-gri, and no consequences with the device I was using.

You can chant your mantra "a gri-gri is safe, a gri-gri is safe" all you want, if it makes you feel warm and fuzzy. But when I have another person's life in my hands, and I know there is a better and safer choice, no fuckin' way.

Cheers,

GO


shockabuku


Nov 18, 2011, 4:58 PM
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cracklover wrote:
guangzhou wrote:
Marginal placements by definition are more likely to pull when hit with any impact force. They answered the question, is the gri gri a safe belay device for gear protected climbing, yes it is. Marginal gear near the belay is like to pull with an ATC too.

I think you strongly overstate your case.

Last weekend I was belaying my wife as she led up a route in Indian Creek a day after it rained. I knew the route was going to be very hard for her, particularly the first 30 feet of it. I also knew that I outweigh her by a lot, and with the rope running straight, there would be no friction from the rock or gear.

For that lead on that day, I am 100% certain that my choosing a device that slips at a lower load added a meaningful level of safety to my belay. I really couldn't care less if you Guangzou, and every professional climber on Earth belays with a gri-gri all the time. I've read deeply enough to understand the forces involved, the failure modes, and the consequences. And beyond a doubt in my mind, there is a fall my wife could have taken that day that might have led to very severe consequences had I been belaying with a gri-gri, and no consequences with the device I was using.

You can chant your mantra "a gri-gri is safe, a gri-gri is safe" all you want, if it makes you feel warm and fuzzy. But when I have another person's life in my hands, and I know there is a better and safer choice, no fuckin' way.

Cheers,

GO

Wow, virtual fisticuffs over a subject that apparently no one has meaningful, concrete information on.


marc801


Nov 18, 2011, 5:24 PM
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rangerrob wrote:
So if I were a professional climber some person or company would pay me to walk up to any random crag, flake out a rope, and climb a 2 pitch 5.10. This is what I mean by being a professional climber.
This is the most skewed, ludicrous definition of "professional" I've ever seen. By that logic, you are essentially saying there is no such thing as a professional anything.

From Miriam-Webster:
professional:
a : participating for gain or livelihood in an activity or field of endeavor often engaged in by amateurs <a professional golfer>
b : having a particular profession as a permanent career <a professional soldier>
c : engaged in by persons receiving financial return <professional football>

profession:
a : a calling requiring specialized knowledge and often long and intensive academic preparation
b : a principal calling, vocation, or employment
c : the whole body of persons engaged in a calling


You and olderic can argue your position all you like, but you're wrong. If you were to actually ask any of the big names we're talking about, you'd find that they self-describe as being "professional climbers".

http://www.proclimbers.com/index.php

http://www.climbing.com/...am_-_perspective271/

http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._no_limits__858.html

http://www.brandiproffitt.com/

http://matadornetwork.com/...ng-to-join-olympics/

http://sonnietrotter.com/

And yes, Patagonia pays its professional climbers to climb:
http://www.patagonia.com/...onia.go?assetid=2897


Partner cracklover


Nov 18, 2011, 5:33 PM
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shockabuku wrote:
cracklover wrote:
guangzhou wrote:
Marginal placements by definition are more likely to pull when hit with any impact force. They answered the question, is the gri gri a safe belay device for gear protected climbing, yes it is. Marginal gear near the belay is like to pull with an ATC too.

I think you strongly overstate your case.

Last weekend I was belaying my wife as she led up a route in Indian Creek a day after it rained. I knew the route was going to be very hard for her, particularly the first 30 feet of it. I also knew that I outweigh her by a lot, and with the rope running straight, there would be no friction from the rock or gear.

For that lead on that day, I am 100% certain that my choosing a device that slips at a lower load added a meaningful level of safety to my belay. I really couldn't care less if you Guangzou, and every professional climber on Earth belays with a gri-gri all the time. I've read deeply enough to understand the forces involved, the failure modes, and the consequences. And beyond a doubt in my mind, there is a fall my wife could have taken that day that might have led to very severe consequences had I been belaying with a gri-gri, and no consequences with the device I was using.

You can chant your mantra "a gri-gri is safe, a gri-gri is safe" all you want, if it makes you feel warm and fuzzy. But when I have another person's life in my hands, and I know there is a better and safer choice, no fuckin' way.

Cheers,

GO

Wow, virtual fisticuffs over a subject that apparently no one has meaningful, concrete information on.

Who says no-one has meaningful information? All the stuff I said in my first post about the various factors comes from decent studies I've read.

Because I actually have seen those results, it's not hard to put the pieces together. Sure, there are plenty of cases where it won't make a difference. But to talk about it like it's a settled issue in which it's just declared "safe", when in fact it could make the difference between severe injury and not, is plenty enough to get me a little uppity. lol

GO

(edited to quote the post I was responding to for clarity)


(This post was edited by cracklover on Nov 18, 2011, 5:39 PM)


olderic


Nov 18, 2011, 6:50 PM
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But did she send? I hope so.


olderic


Nov 18, 2011, 7:05 PM
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marc801 wrote:
And yes, Patagonia pays its professional climbers to climb:
http://www.patagonia.com/...onia.go?assetid=2897

Which actually says:

Our ambassadors are more than just athletes; they are field testers for our gear and storytellers for our tribe. Patagonia ambassadors work closely with the design department to test, refine and validate our products in the harshest and most remote locations on the planet. And when unique, adventurous tales arise from that testing, we will share them with you through our catalogs and Web site.

Sounds to me like they are product testers. And story tellers. But I guess the key is "self described" - gotcha. Better watch out for how Joe Kinder self describes....

I think the comparison to sports breaks down in too many ways. Most sports where there are "pro" involve a much more extensive formal competition environment. Along with typically a lot of spectators. Pure climbing usually doesn't go there although there are exceptions - early ascents of the Nose or the Eiger for example.

But I have thought of a couple of situations where people do get paid for just doing their thing and they might be analogous.

1. The person who gets paid to just think - high priced think tanks, The old Bell Labs fellows for example.
2. Artists that get some support to just create with no constraints - more common in "gongshow"'s socialist European examples.

Petty rare though - not a viable career path for most.


redlude97


Nov 18, 2011, 7:23 PM
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olderic wrote:
marc801 wrote:
And yes, Patagonia pays its professional climbers to climb:
http://www.patagonia.com/...onia.go?assetid=2897

Which actually says:

Our ambassadors are more than just athletes; they are field testers for our gear and storytellers for our tribe. Patagonia ambassadors work closely with the design department to test, refine and validate our products in the harshest and most remote locations on the planet. And when unique, adventurous tales arise from that testing, we will share them with you through our catalogs and Web site.

Sounds to me like they are product testers. And story tellers. But I guess the key is "self described" - gotcha. Better watch out for how Joe Kinder self describes....

I think the comparison to sports breaks down in too many ways. Most sports where there are "pro" involve a much more extensive formal competition environment. Along with typically a lot of spectators. Pure climbing usually doesn't go there although there are exceptions - early ascents of the Nose or the Eiger for example.

But I have thought of a couple of situations where people do get paid for just doing their thing and they might be analogous.

1. The person who gets paid to just think - high priced think tanks, The old Bell Labs fellows for example.
2. Artists that get some support to just create with no constraints - more common in "gongshow"'s socialist European examples.

Petty rare though - not a viable career path for most.
Big mountain skiers/snowboarders don't compete and yet make their living mostly through endorsements/sponsorships. Does that mean they aren't "pro" either? Many of them consider themselves "pros"


Partner cracklover


Nov 18, 2011, 7:23 PM
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olderic wrote:
But did she send? I hope so.

Nope, hung all over it, I'm afraid. No actual falls. Just really kicked her butt - couldn't figure out the pods.

GO


dynosore


Nov 18, 2011, 7:52 PM
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guangzhou wrote:
rangerrob wrote:
Fair enough dude. I'm just saying that I don't like people belaying me on lead with a grigri. Just not the right tool I think. Why opt for the heavy, expensive tool when can get the same or better result with a les expensive, lighter option? Just my opinion, not fact


It's just a tool. If the person who's using it is proficient, you won't be able totell the difference between a Gri Gri, ATC, or Guide (Whatever) device when you are leading.

Used properly, they will all feed out slack and will all catch you properly.

True, but if your belayer isn't proficient, or messes up, or you knock a rock down on them, there is a world of difference. The difference between "hey are you paying attention" and "heeeeeyyyy whump". In no way am I excusing or advocating bab belaying. But I've read too many stories of how "experienced" "competent" belayers ended up with rope burnt hands and decked leaders.


olderic


Nov 18, 2011, 8:58 PM
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cracklover wrote:
olderic wrote:
But did she send? I hope so.

Nope, hung all over it, I'm afraid. No actual falls. Just really kicked her butt - couldn't figure out the pods.

GO

It can't be that she hates cracks can it (not that I would blame her) - but that just wouldn't seem right. Unless opposites DO attract.


rangerrob


Nov 18, 2011, 8:59 PM
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Marc I have climbed and made money, (albeit a paltry sum) by giving a slideshow. Can I now "self describe" myself as a pro climber? I can self describe myself as good looking too, doesn't necessarily make it so.

This is a ridiculous argument until we come up with an agreed upon definition of what a pro anything actually means. Wikipedia offers this:

A professional is a person who is paid to undertake a specialised set of tasks and orchestrate them for a fee. One who is payed for a service or receives a fee for their work or effort. Traditional examples of professionals included doctors, lawyers, and clergy but is now more widely used to include estate agents, surveyors , environmental scientists, forensic scientists, educators and many more. The term is also used in sport to differentiate amateur players from those paid for their work. Hence professional footballer or professional golfer. Someone who is able to procure their knowledge and capabilty of a particular subject or area of experience.

In some cultures, the term is used as shorthand to describe a particular social stratum of well educated, mostly salaried workers, who enjoy considerable work autonomy, a comfortable salary, and are commonly engaged in creative and intellectually challenging work. Less technically, it may also refer to a person having impressive competence in a particular activity.

Because of the personal and confidential nature of many professional services and thus the necessity to place a great deal of trust in them, most professionals are subject to strict codes of conduct enshrining rigorous ethical and moral obligations.


I would argue that the term professional should not be applied to any sports related activities. It should be reserved for "professions" Attaching the term to sports really undermines the word I think. It taints the activity. I have never thought a person should be paid for playing a game or recreational activity, including climbing. If some company wants to give an athlete money for wearing or using their product, then that's fine...it still doesn't make them a professional, exceot maybe a professional endorser


marc801


Nov 18, 2011, 9:05 PM
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dynosore wrote:
In no way am I excusing or advocating bab belaying. But I've read too many stories of how "experienced" "competent" belayers ended up with rope burnt hands and decked leaders.
Curiously, bitd, before gri-gri's and climbing gyms, if there was a decking incident once in 5 years, it was a lot. Now we have discussion threads asking how many times you have decked. In the Gunks, we'd go consecutive seasons without any major accidents, let alone someone dropping someone.


dynosore


Nov 18, 2011, 9:56 PM
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marc801 wrote:
dynosore wrote:
In no way am I excusing or advocating bab belaying. But I've read too many stories of how "experienced" "competent" belayers ended up with rope burnt hands and decked leaders.
Curiously, bitd, before gri-gri's and climbing gyms, if there was a decking incident once in 5 years, it was a lot. Now we have discussion threads asking how many times you have decked. In the Gunks, we'd go consecutive seasons without any major accidents, let alone someone dropping someone.

It's the blind leading the blind. I only started climbing about nine years ago, and the difference in attitudes in that short time is shocking. The first generation of people who learned to climb solely in a gym now are considered experts by many noobs. Scary stuff!


marc801


Nov 19, 2011, 12:02 AM
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Re: [rangerrob] Grigri for lead belay [In reply to]
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rangerrob wrote:
Marc I have climbed and made money, (albeit a paltry sum) by giving a slideshow. Can I now "self describe" myself as a pro climber?
If you are doing that, perhaps among other things, on a continuing basis, and it's providing some to all of your income, and the reason you are able to do so is because of your climbing, yes.

rangerrob wrote:
This is a ridiculous argument until we come up with an agreed upon definition of what a pro anything actually means.
That's because you're being obstinately stubborn about it. Somehow you have a major problem being able to rationalize that some people are able to make a living because of their climbing. As far as an agreed upon definition, your Wiki entry does just that...I've bolded the pertinent passages:

rangerrob wrote:
Wikipedia offers this:

A professional is a person who is paid to undertake a specialised set of tasks and orchestrate them for a fee. One who is payed for a service or receives a fee for their work or effort. Traditional examples of professionals included doctors, lawyers, and clergy but is now more widely used to include estate agents, surveyors , environmental scientists, forensic scientists, educators and many more. The term is also used in sport to differentiate amateur players from those paid for their work. Hence professional footballer or professional golfer. Someone who is able to procure their knowledge and capability of a particular subject or area of experience.

In some cultures, the term is used as shorthand to describe a particular social stratum of well educated, mostly salaried workers, who enjoy considerable work autonomy, a comfortable salary, and are commonly engaged in creative and intellectually challenging work. Less technically, it may also refer to a person having impressive competence in a particular activity.

Because of the personal and confidential nature of many professional services and thus the necessity to place a great deal of trust in them, most professionals are subject to strict codes of conduct enshrining rigorous ethical and moral obligations.

rangerrob wrote:
I would argue that the term professional should not be applied to any sports related activities.
Argue all you want, but over a century of popular usage pretty much negates the argument.


rangerrob wrote:
It should be reserved for "professions" Attaching the term to sports really undermines the word I think. It taints the activity. I have never thought a person should be paid for playing a game or recreational activity, including climbing.
Which taints it more - paying someone $20M for 5 yrs of playing football, or the team owners getting billions because millions of people want to watch that $20M player each weekend for 16 weeks?

The true ridiculous argument is this quaint notion of yours about tainting the sport and its supposed purity that must have been delivered by angels.

rangerrob wrote:
If some company wants to give an athlete money for wearing or using their product, then that's fine...it still doesn't make them a professional...
That is precisely one of the definitions of professional. Have fun on your quixotic quest to change the minds of millions.


guangzhou


Nov 19, 2011, 12:37 AM
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Re: [cracklover] Grigri for lead belay [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
guangzhou wrote:
Marginal placements by definition are more likely to pull when hit with any impact force. They answered the question, is the gri gri a safe belay device for gear protected climbing, yes it is. Marginal gear near the belay is like to pull with an ATC too.

I think you strongly overstate your case.

Last weekend I was belaying my wife as she led up a route in Indian Creek a day after it rained. I knew the route was going to be very hard for her, particularly the first 30 feet of it. I also knew that I outweigh her by a lot, and with the rope running straight, there would be no friction from the rock or gear.

For that lead on that day, I am 100% certain that my choosing a device that slips at a lower load added a meaningful level of safety to my belay. I really couldn't care less if you Guangzou, and every professional climber on Earth belays with a gri-gri all the time. I've read deeply enough to understand the forces involved, the failure modes, and the consequences. And beyond a doubt in my mind, there is a fall my wife could have taken that day that might have led to very severe consequences had I been belaying with a gri-gri, and no consequences with the device I was using.

You can chant your mantra "a gri-gri is safe, a gri-gri is safe" all you want, if it makes you feel warm and fuzzy. But when I have another person's life in my hands, and I know there is a better and safer choice, no fuckin' way.

Cheers,

GO

Overstating, not really. Marginal is marginal. I also added that the gri gri isn't the best tool for all situations. In the case you describe, a gri could still provide a dynamic belay by simply having the belayer walk into the fall.

I rarely see people actually give dynamic belays where they let the rope slip through. I know it happens, but rarely from what I see.

As for the rock being wet making it soft, I think that would play a bigger roll on safety. Like all things climbing, a calculated risk that was evaluated.

In climbing, I can't think of too many, rules that are 100% all the time. (Never let go of the break hand being a 100% rule)

Maybe she'll send next time.


rangerrob


Nov 19, 2011, 2:29 AM
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Whatever Marc. I disagree with you, and you can call me quixotic and all sorts of other things, but my opinion is just that. I'm not diminishing these climbers accomplishments. I just don't think the term professional is appropriate to use to describe a climber.


guangzhou


Nov 19, 2011, 2:59 AM
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rangerrob wrote:
Whatever Marc. I disagree with you, and you can call me quixotic and all sorts of other things, but my opinion is just that. I'm not diminishing these climbers accomplishments. I just don't think the term professional is appropriate to use to describe a climber.

Again, you have an opinion based on emotion versus facts. Under every definition of professional that has been presented here, people have given examples of climbers that meet the criteria.

This morning on the news, they were talking about profession basketball players. A sport I don't know much about, but they were looking at the top salaries of the players. All of them more then doubled their salaries with endorsement. Even now, they are on strike and still making millions of dollars in Endorsement revenue because they are professional athletes.

Again, your opinion is wrong, even the examples you give have clearly shown it to be wrong.

Professional climbers get paid because of their climbing skills. They are paid retainers, salaries, and endorsements because of what they accomplish while climbing. They can sell books they write and do motivational talk tours because of what they have experience while climbing. A climber who can earn a living via slideshows about his climbing accomplishment has definitely reach professional climber status. Guides and top climbers are both earn money by climbing.

A professional photographer makes money selling pretty photos, a professional climber earn money through his climbing skills. Climbing hard or guiding are both example of climbing skills. One requires an athletic effort, the other is more technical and teaching.

It's time to move on for me. I have a climbing gym and guide service to run.


rangerrob


Nov 21, 2011, 4:09 PM
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Re: [guangzhou] Grigri for lead belay [In reply to]
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Gonzo, facts are either correct or incorrect. You either agree or disagree with an opinions. Opinions arent wrong or right, they just are. You can say that my opinion is based in incorrect facts, but you cant say my opinion is wrong. That's just silly. That's like saying my religion is wrong.

Fact: coffe has caffeine in it

Opinion: coffee tastes terrible

Fact: Tommy Caldwell makes $XX dollars from his climbing activities

Opinion: I don't think Tommy Caldwell is a professional.

see the difference Gonzo?


dr_feelgood


Nov 21, 2011, 5:46 PM
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rangerrob wrote:
Gonzo, facts are either correct or incorrect. You either agree or disagree with an opinions. Opinions arent wrong or right, they just are. You can say that my opinion is based in incorrect facts, but you cant say my opinion is wrong. That's just silly. That's like saying my religion is wrong.

Fact: coffe has caffeine in it

Opinion: coffee tastes terrible

Fact: Tommy Caldwell makes $XX dollars from his climbing activities

Opinion: I don't think Tommy Caldwell is a professional.

see the difference Gonzo?

Fact: You are a carbon based life form.

Opinion: You have a room temperature IQ.


shockabuku


Nov 21, 2011, 5:51 PM
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dr_feelgood wrote:
rangerrob wrote:
Gonzo, facts are either correct or incorrect. You either agree or disagree with an opinions. Opinions arent wrong or right, they just are. You can say that my opinion is based in incorrect facts, but you cant say my opinion is wrong. That's just silly. That's like saying my religion is wrong.

Fact: coffe has caffeine in it

Opinion: coffee tastes terrible

Fact: Tommy Caldwell makes $XX dollars from his climbing activities

Opinion: I don't think Tommy Caldwell is a professional.

see the difference Gonzo?

Fact: You are a carbon based life form.

Opinion: You have a room temperature IQ.

Do you know that to be true? Or is that an assumption?

Oh wait - I guess I have to define assumptions now.Pirate


rangerrob


Nov 21, 2011, 7:42 PM
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If we're assuming room temperature is 72F then I'm doing pretty well on this site!! HA!


marc801


Nov 21, 2011, 8:38 PM
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rangerrob wrote:
Gonzo, facts are either correct or incorrect. You either agree or disagree with an opinions. Opinions arent wrong or right, they just are. You can say that my opinion is based in incorrect facts, but you cant say my opinion is wrong. That's just silly. That's like saying my religion is wrong.

Fact: coffe has caffeine in it

Opinion: coffee tastes terrible

Fact: Tommy Caldwell makes $XX dollars from his climbing activities

Opinion: I don't think Tommy Caldwell is a professional.

see the difference Gonzo?
Wow. This explains a lot if not all of the difficulty you're having with this topic.

First off, facts are facts - there is no such thing as an incorrect fact. A fact, by definition, is correct and true.

Yes, we can agree or disagree with opinions, but also, an opinion can be incorrect - if it is arrived at by faulty logic, misunderstanding or misapplication of facts, or by ignoring facts entirely.

Most of us disagree with your opinion that Tommy Caldwell is not a professional climber. We disagree with it because it is a wrong opinion. It's wrong because it ignores the fact that the definition of professional includes and encompasses Tommy's endeavors as a climber.


guangzhou


Nov 22, 2011, 1:00 AM
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rangerrob wrote:
Gonzo, facts are either correct or incorrect. You either agree or disagree with an opinions. Opinions arent wrong or right, they just are. You can say that my opinion is based in incorrect facts, but you cant say my opinion is wrong. That's just silly. That's like saying my religion is wrong.

Thanks for clarifying my understanding of from from opinion. The whole world has just become much more clear.

In the case of opinions, they are indeed opinions that are wrong or right. Irregardless, opinions are something that you should be able to defend with personal experiences or facts in this case.

You stated they is no such things as professional climber then set criteria for what a professional is. Several users used you definition to prove that climbers were indeed professional by your definition.

A few more words were exchange and the term was redefined, same thing happened again. Now you are defending your opinion by saying it's my opinion, so it can't be wrong.



In reply to:
Fact: coffe has caffeine in it

Opinion: coffee tastes terrible



Fact: Tommy Caldwell makes $XX dollars from his climbing activities

Opinion: I don't think Tommy Caldwell is a professional.

see the difference Gonzo?

Not really, by your definition, a professional is someone who make their money by doing the task. So, you just proved yourself wrong with the example above.

Room temperature being 72, I'm guessing your IQ is more like your climbing shoe size.

Opinions are something that one needs to be able to defend not just state.

I find all religions to be opinions anyways.


olderic


Nov 22, 2011, 3:26 AM
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It seems that we have a difference of opinion then. In Rob's and my opinion (actually I shouldn't be assuming any thing for Rob) it doesn't count if you are making all your $$$ from endorsements and none just doing the fundamental thing. Yet all your examples - all the links describing them - come up with 0 examples of someone getting paid to climb. All the $$ come from endorsements, being reps, being ambassadors. You have been repeatedly challenged to come up with an example of someone getting paid simply or climbing and you have not been able to give one. Your definition of "professional" is more lax. It's your opinion of what the definition should be. It is not based on any facts.
So I guess you "win" by your definition and we "win" by ours. Although I still think the fact the some was a pro because they said so was hilarious and incredibly moronic even given rc.com standards.


marc801


Nov 22, 2011, 3:58 AM
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olderic wrote:
It seems that we have a difference of opinion then. In Rob's and my opinion (actually I shouldn't be assuming any thing for Rob) it doesn't count if you are making all your $$$ from endorsements and none just doing the fundamental thing. Yet all your examples - all the links describing them - come up with 0 examples of someone getting paid to climb. All the $$ come from endorsements, being reps, being ambassadors. You have been repeatedly challenged to come up with an example of someone getting paid simply or climbing and you have not been able to give one. Your definition of "professional" is more lax. It's your opinion of what the definition should be. It is not based on any facts.
So I guess you "win" by your definition and we "win" by ours. Although I still think the fact the some was a pro because they said so was hilarious and incredibly moronic even given rc.com standards.
At this point I honestly think you and Rob would pass on a free night with a $1000 hooker because she was being paid to endorse Victoria's Secret lingerie.

What is it that you don't get about the fact that we've pointed out that people like Caldwell, Sharma, and Honnold are indeed getting paid to just climb?


guangzhou


Nov 22, 2011, 4:27 AM
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olderic wrote:
It seems that we have a difference of opinion then. In Rob's and my opinion (actually I shouldn't be assuming any thing for Rob) it doesn't count if you are making all your $$$ from endorsements and none just doing the fundamental thing. Yet all your examples - all the links describing them - come up with 0 examples of someone getting paid to climb. All the $$ come from endorsements, being reps, being ambassadors. You have been repeatedly challenged to come up with an example of someone getting paid simply or climbing and you have not been able to give one. Your definition of "professional" is more lax. It's your opinion of what the definition should be. It is not based on any facts.
So I guess you "win" by your definition and we "win" by ours. Although I still think the fact the some was a pro because they said so was hilarious and incredibly moronic even given rc.com standards.

Can you give me a professional in any field that meets the criteria you describe? I doubt it, but let's see what you come up with.


areyoumydude


Nov 22, 2011, 5:01 AM
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olderic


Nov 22, 2011, 2:47 PM
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guangzhou wrote:
Can you give me a professional in any field that meets the criteria you describe? I doubt it, but let's see what you come up with.

Any profession that produces something or offers a service. A grave digger is being paid to dig with a certain brand of shovel, wear certain clothes or plaster his picture all over the Internet while he is down in a hole.

A software engineer typically isn't paid by Microsoft or Google to use their products (although that can get fuzzy with professional discounts).

And on and on.

The very simple "fact" is that just climbing - not developing routes, not guiding, not taking photographs of it, not testing gear while doing it, not blogging about it - but just climbing - produces nothing tangible and people do not get paid to just do that.


olderic


Nov 22, 2011, 3:01 PM
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marc801 wrote:
What is it that you don't get about the fact that we've pointed out that people like Caldwell, Sharma, and Honnold are indeed getting paid to just climb?

Lets take Sharma for example. Lets say he happens to go climbing , maybe some pirate pictures show up of it - and he is wearing one LS shoe , 1 red chilli on the other foot, Eidlerid rope, Beal draws, Nike hat (on backwards - yo), Addidas t and Sickle pants - who exactly is is going to pay him? I'm sure those checks from Prana and Evolve will roll in like clockwork - because you know Chris is just being Chris and they just want him to be happy and climb - that's what he is good at after all.

The $1K hooker is still providing a service of use (debate that one) independent of her (fetching) attire.

One thing that you seem hung up on - and here I am just speaking for me - because I think Rob may well feel differently - is that it is a bad thing that all these well known climbers are making a go of it by pimping themselves out the way they do. I don't think it taints the climbing that they do - occasionally they may feel pressure to get something done for their sponsors and things may get fuzzy - but for the most part its fine. More power to them. It dose allow them the freedom and flexibility ton climb a lot more then the average joe.


fresh


Nov 22, 2011, 3:38 PM
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I agree with eric and rob here, no one is getting paid to climb. "pro" climbers are getting paid to represent the brand. guides are getting paid to teach and/or lead for their clients.

if my friend who's a carpenter went on a coke binge, flipped cars in harvard square, and publicly insulted dewalt and evolv, he could still perform his job and get paid once we post bail. so could rajon rondo. chris sharma could not.

sorry, but no one gets paid to climb. they're paid to be a public figure for the brand, or to teach.


(This post was edited by fresh on Nov 22, 2011, 3:39 PM)


SylviaSmile


Nov 22, 2011, 4:02 PM
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redlude97 wrote:
olderic wrote:
marc801 wrote:
And yes, Patagonia pays its professional climbers to climb:
http://www.patagonia.com/...onia.go?assetid=2897

Which actually says:

Our ambassadors are more than just athletes; they are field testers for our gear and storytellers for our tribe. Patagonia ambassadors work closely with the design department to test, refine and validate our products in the harshest and most remote locations on the planet. And when unique, adventurous tales arise from that testing, we will share them with you through our catalogs and Web site.

Sounds to me like they are product testers. And story tellers. But I guess the key is "self described" - gotcha. Better watch out for how Joe Kinder self describes....

I think the comparison to sports breaks down in too many ways. Most sports where there are "pro" involve a much more extensive formal competition environment. Along with typically a lot of spectators. Pure climbing usually doesn't go there although there are exceptions - early ascents of the Nose or the Eiger for example.

But I have thought of a couple of situations where people do get paid for just doing their thing and they might be analogous.

1. The person who gets paid to just think - high priced think tanks, The old Bell Labs fellows for example.
2. Artists that get some support to just create with no constraints - more common in "gongshow"'s socialist European examples.

Petty rare though - not a viable career path for most.
Big mountain skiers/snowboarders don't compete and yet make their living mostly through endorsements/sponsorships. Does that mean they aren't "pro" either? Many of them consider themselves "pros"

Why can't climbing/climbers be categorized with other professional sports/athletes? Would Patagonia really pay their ambassadors unless they were at the top of the climbing sport, so to speak? I'm not seeing how you can call climbing anything else but a sport.


marc801


Nov 22, 2011, 4:36 PM
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fresh wrote:
I agree with eric and rob here, no one is getting paid to climb. "pro" climbers are getting paid to represent the brand. guides are getting paid to teach and/or lead for their clients.

if my friend who's a carpenter went on a coke binge, flipped cars in harvard square, and publicly insulted dewalt and evolv, he could still perform his job and get paid once we post bail. so could rajon rondo. chris sharma could not.

sorry, but no one gets paid to climb. they're paid to be a public figure for the brand, or to teach.
I'm out. This is now less rewarding and mentally stimulating than arguing with a box of hammers.


olderic


Nov 22, 2011, 4:44 PM
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SylviaSmile wrote:
Why can't climbing/climbers be categorized with other professional sports/athletes? Would Patagonia really pay their ambassadors unless they were at the top of the climbing sport, so to speak? I'm not seeing how you can call climbing anything else but a sport.

oooh - goodie - another tangent. Define sport. Does it need to involve competition with ell defined rules? Does it need to be physical (is chess a sport?, poker?).

There typically is an attempt to lump climbing in with other "x-treme" sports - often the boarding ones. But most of them have a basis in competition.


rangerrob


Nov 22, 2011, 4:54 PM
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Sylvia, until obese middle aged American men sit around on their couches all Sunday eating potato chips and drinking beer watching Chris Sharma climb on televesion, climbers will not be categorized with "professioanl" athletes. Pro athletes are only "pro" because some people will pay to watch them do what they do.

I suppose if a climber were to make money by having someone film him or her and then sell that film, they may sneak in there as a pro athlete.

That being said, I now have two followers of my ridiculous idiom. It's a growing movement, and will assimilate all of you!!!!


csproul


Nov 22, 2011, 5:03 PM
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rangerrob wrote:
...
I suppose if a climber were to make money by having someone film him or her and then sell that film, they may sneak in there as a pro athlete...
Yeah...that never happensUnsure


jt512


Nov 22, 2011, 5:09 PM
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rangerrob wrote:
Sylvia, until obese middle aged American men sit around on their couches all Sunday eating potato chips and drinking beer watching Chris Sharma climb on televesion, climbers will not be categorized with "professioanl" athletes. Pro athletes are only "pro" because some people will pay to watch them do what they do.

Ironically, the only people who seem to hold that opinion are fat middle-aged American men.

Jay


SylviaSmile


Nov 22, 2011, 7:30 PM
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olderic wrote:
SylviaSmile wrote:
Why can't climbing/climbers be categorized with other professional sports/athletes? Would Patagonia really pay their ambassadors unless they were at the top of the climbing sport, so to speak? I'm not seeing how you can call climbing anything else but a sport.

oooh - goodie - another tangent. Define sport. Does it need to involve competition with ell defined rules? Does it need to be physical (is chess a sport?, poker?).

There typically is an attempt to lump climbing in with other "x-treme" sports - often the boarding ones. But most of them have a basis in competition.

My definition of "sport" (and this is just out of my head) is a physical endeavor with a measurable goal. An athlete is one who participates in a sport on a regular basis. When I was on the swim team in high school, for instance, I considered myself an athlete whether or not I participated in competitions. My goal was to get a faster time in a particular event, and I could measure my progress without having to go to a swim meet (though, in that case, the time would not be considered "official"). As it happened, I did go to swim meets. I never advanced enough in the sport, however, that anyone would have paid me to wear their brand of swimsuit. If I had done so, I would have been considered a professional athlete and given up my eligibility to compete on a college level.

Now, as I see it, climbing definitely fulfills the physical aspect of athleticism: climbers are some of the most physically amazing people anywhere. Whether it is goal-oriented may, I suppose, be open to question. What is the measure of climbing? Grades? I think a lot of people would like to say it is not the grades, or at least that the grades are secondary to a love of climbing for its own sake. It becomes a bit attenuated. But looking at, for instance, Sasha DiGiulian, it's possible to say she's the top female climber in the world (or one of the best) by looking at the grades or difficulty levels of the climbs she's completed. So I'd say, whereas it may or may not be the goal of the individual climber to climb a higher grade per se (or just because of the grade), I think it still qualifies climbing in general as having a measurable goal.


redlude97


Nov 22, 2011, 7:39 PM
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Re: [fresh] Grigri for lead belay [In reply to]
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fresh wrote:
I agree with eric and rob here, no one is getting paid to climb. "pro" climbers are getting paid to represent the brand. guides are getting paid to teach and/or lead for their clients.

if my friend who's a carpenter went on a coke binge, flipped cars in harvard square, and publicly insulted dewalt and evolv, he could still perform his job and get paid once we post bail. so could rajon rondo. chris sharma could not.

sorry, but no one gets paid to climb. they're paid to be a public figure for the brand, or to teach.
Why does the NBA fine players for what they do in their free time then?


SylviaSmile


Nov 22, 2011, 7:50 PM
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Re: [jt512] Grigri for lead belay [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
rangerrob wrote:
Sylvia, until obese middle aged American men sit around on their couches all Sunday eating potato chips and drinking beer watching Chris Sharma climb on televesion, climbers will not be categorized with "professioanl" athletes. Pro athletes are only "pro" because some people will pay to watch them do what they do.

Ironically, the only people who seem to hold that opinion are fat middle-aged American men.

Jay

I don't think "professional athlete" is synonymous with "televised athlete." Some athletes are televised but not professional, such as amateur golfers or figure skaters; and then some are professional but not televised, though this is definitely more rare. The point of paying an athlete an endorsement is to get the brand more popularity. Because of the varying levels of publicity, some professional athletes are paid way more than others: so a professional tennis player is going to get a lot more money in endorsements than a professional marathon runner. Climbing as a sport is low on the totem pole in terms of publicity, but there are still magazines, websites, videos, etc.


rangerrob


Nov 22, 2011, 8:23 PM
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Well stated Sylvia. I may even consider altering my perspective :) Just maybe.


rossross


Nov 22, 2011, 9:43 PM
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rangerrob wrote:
I suppose if a climber were to make money by having someone film him or her and then sell that film, they may sneak in there as a pro athlete.

*face palm*
You obviously have been living under a rock for a long time. You are right, there is no such thing as a pro climber. All the climbing magazines, videos, websites, and individuals who consider themselves pro climbers are wrong... obviously.

Disclaimer, if you live in your parents basement or out of a vehicle you are not (necessarily) a pro climber.

I also abandon this thread as I fear it will give me a migrane.


rangerrob


Nov 23, 2011, 12:43 AM
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Ross, you tend to hit your face with your palm a lot. You should get checked out. Maybe you have Tourettes.


guangzhou


Nov 23, 2011, 1:16 AM
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rangerrob wrote:
Ross, you tend to hit your face with your palm a lot. You should get checked out. Maybe you have Tourettes.


I think it's time to move on for me too.

I am headed to a photography forum where they are talking about professional photographers. They are arguing that they is no such thing as a professional photographer because a photographer who doesn't sell photos or licenses images is not getting paid to take photos.

The argument was sound, if a photographer takes a photo no-one ever sees, he would not get paid for that image, so he is not being paid for taking photos, he is selling photos.


(This post was edited by guangzhou on Nov 23, 2011, 1:20 AM)


rangerrob


Nov 24, 2011, 1:32 PM
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Gonzo, don't worry. Even though I don't agree with you, I still love ya babe!


guangzhou


Nov 25, 2011, 1:34 AM
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rangerrob wrote:
Gonzo, don't worry. Even though I don't agree with you, I still love ya babe!

I feel the love.


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