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Powers.Goldwire
Dec 14, 2011, 9:15 PM
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Has any one attempted the 5.13A roof crack in Dawson Bluff, KY? Its supposably the 10th hardest roof crack in the world. I've aided it and belayed my buddy on it. But, I wanted some input on anyone elses experiance on this route. Thanks
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6pacfershur
Dec 15, 2011, 3:24 AM
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please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb?
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rockforlife
Dec 15, 2011, 5:33 AM
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6pacfershur wrote: please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb?
your kidding right?
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sungam
Dec 15, 2011, 12:21 PM
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6pacfershur wrote: please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb?
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billl7
Dec 15, 2011, 1:32 PM
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6pacfershur wrote: please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb?
Bill L
(This post was edited by billl7 on Dec 15, 2011, 1:33 PM)
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camhead
Dec 15, 2011, 1:41 PM
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sungam wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb? As long as it is free aid, why not? Hard roof cracks get aided all the time. For example, Camhead practically aided KCC there were so many fixed nutz on it from other aiders.
Is true, I caught HIV from Kansas City.
As for Thermonuclear, I've wanted to check it out for a while, asked about it on another website years ago, but I can never bring myself to drive past the Red to get to Dawson Bluff. It and Champagne Jam at Sandrock are probably the two great "unknown" hard roof cracks in the East.
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sungam
Dec 15, 2011, 2:07 PM
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camhead wrote: sungam wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb? As long as it is free aid, why not? Hard roof cracks get aided all the time. For example, Camhead practically aided KCC there were so many fixed nutz on it from other aiders. Is true, I caught HIV from Kansas City. As for Thermonuclear, I've wanted to check it out for a while, asked about it on another website years ago, but I can never bring myself to drive past the Red to get to Dawson Bluff. It and Champagne Jam at Sandrock are probably the two great "unknown" hard roof cracks in the East.
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olderic
Dec 15, 2011, 2:53 PM
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sungam wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb? As long as it is free aid, why not? Hard roof cracks get aided all the time. For example, Camhead practically aided KCC there were so many fixed nutz on it from other aiders.
I think you mean clean aid. Unless you are French...
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climbingtrash
Dec 15, 2011, 3:21 PM
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6pacfershur wrote: please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb?
Probably because it's too hard for him to free climb? << Too obvious and answer?
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colatownkid
Dec 15, 2011, 3:28 PM
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camhead wrote: sungam wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb? As long as it is free aid, why not? Hard roof cracks get aided all the time. For example, Camhead practically aided KCC there were so many fixed nutz on it from other aiders. Is true, I caught HIV from Kansas City. As for Thermonuclear, I've wanted to check it out for a while, asked about it on another website years ago, but I can never bring myself to drive past the Red to get to Dawson Bluff. It and Champagne Jam at Sandrock are probably the two great "unknown" hard roof cracks in the East.
Don't forget "Rat's Ass" at Steele, AL.
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6pacfershur
Dec 15, 2011, 5:00 PM
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sungam wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb? As long as it is free aid, why not? Hard roof cracks get aided all the time. For example, Camhead practically aided KCC there were so many fixed nutz on it from other aiders.
next time you're in colorado, stop by eldo with your aid rack and try getting on the naked edge....make sure you bring a video camera because the ensuing ass-kicking you get will be gold!
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Dip
Dec 15, 2011, 8:26 PM
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6pacfershur wrote: sungam wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb? As long as it is free aid, why not? Hard roof cracks get aided all the time. For example, Camhead practically aided KCC there were so many fixed nutz on it from other aiders. next time you're in colorado, stop by eldo with your aid rack and try getting on the naked edge....make sure you bring a video camera because the ensuing ass-kicking you get will be gold!
Oh jesus christ. An "in eldo..." post. Please tell me you included that in the thread on mp.
http://www.mountainproject.com/...33847__6#a_107281968
edited to add link
(This post was edited by Dip on Dec 15, 2011, 8:29 PM)
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johnwesely
Dec 15, 2011, 8:49 PM
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6pacfershur wrote: sungam wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb? As long as it is free aid, why not? Hard roof cracks get aided all the time. For example, Camhead practically aided KCC there were so many fixed nutz on it from other aiders. next time you're in colorado, stop by eldo with your aid rack and try getting on the naked edge....make sure you bring a video camera because the ensuing ass-kicking you get will be gold!
Because aiding an obscure roof crack is even in the same neighborhood as aiding one of the most popular moderate free climbs in the world.
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sungam
Dec 16, 2011, 12:26 AM
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6pacfershur wrote: sungam wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb? As long as it is free aid, why not? Hard roof cracks get aided all the time. For example, Camhead practically aided KCC there were so many fixed nutz on it from other aiders. next time you're in colorado, stop by eldo with your aid rack and try getting on the naked edge....make sure you bring a video camera because the ensuing ass-kicking you get will be gold!
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sungam
Dec 16, 2011, 12:27 AM
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olderic wrote: sungam wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb? As long as it is free aid, why not? Hard roof cracks get aided all the time. For example, Camhead practically aided KCC there were so many fixed nutz on it from other aiders. I think you mean clean aid. Unless you are French...
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styndall
Dec 16, 2011, 1:02 AM
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6pacfershur wrote: sungam wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb? As long as it is free aid, why not? Hard roof cracks get aided all the time. For example, Camhead practically aided KCC there were so many fixed nutz on it from other aiders. next time you're in colorado, stop by eldo with your aid rack and try getting on the naked edge....make sure you bring a video camera because the ensuing ass-kicking you get will be gold!
I'd like to nominate this for Post of the Year 2011. Seconds?
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6pacfershur
Dec 16, 2011, 2:04 AM
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johnwesely wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: sungam wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb? As long as it is free aid, why not? Hard roof cracks get aided all the time. For example, Camhead practically aided KCC there were so many fixed nutz on it from other aiders. next time you're in colorado, stop by eldo with your aid rack and try getting on the naked edge....make sure you bring a video camera because the ensuing ass-kicking you get will be gold! Because aiding an obscure roof crack is even in the same neighborhood as aiding one of the most popular moderate free climbs in the world.
please take this opportunity to explain the criteria to us: when is it acceptable to aid climb a free climb and when is it not...............
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johnwesely
Dec 16, 2011, 2:37 AM
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6pacfershur wrote: johnwesely wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: sungam wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb? As long as it is free aid, why not? Hard roof cracks get aided all the time. For example, Camhead practically aided KCC there were so many fixed nutz on it from other aiders. next time you're in colorado, stop by eldo with your aid rack and try getting on the naked edge....make sure you bring a video camera because the ensuing ass-kicking you get will be gold! Because aiding an obscure roof crack is even in the same neighborhood as aiding one of the most popular moderate free climbs in the world. please take this opportunity to explain the criteria to us: when is it acceptable to aid climb a free climb and when is it not...............
When doing so wouldn't make you a jerk. Seems pretty simple to me.
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charlie.elverson
Dec 16, 2011, 2:51 AM
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6pacfershur wrote: johnwesely wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: sungam wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb? As long as it is free aid, why not? Hard roof cracks get aided all the time. For example, Camhead practically aided KCC there were so many fixed nutz on it from other aiders. next time you're in colorado, stop by eldo with your aid rack and try getting on the naked edge....make sure you bring a video camera because the ensuing ass-kicking you get will be gold! Because aiding an obscure roof crack is even in the same neighborhood as aiding one of the most popular moderate free climbs in the world. please take this opportunity to explain the criteria to us: when is it acceptable to aid climb a free climb and when is it not...............
you tell 'em 6pac! That goes double for all the jerks aiding the nose and moonlight buttress!
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Lazlo
Dec 16, 2011, 4:28 AM
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Lazlo
Dec 16, 2011, 4:30 AM
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Don't nobody free my aid climb! If I see anyone with a chalk bag near my route......
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guangzhou
Dec 16, 2011, 7:27 AM
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A friend of mine lived near the area, so I've spent some time at Dawson, but never managed to free Thermonuclear crack. I've manged to do most of the routes there.
One person above mentioned Champagne Jams, not sure, it's been nearly a decade, but I think the route is actually Champain Jams because of the cobbles inside.
A couple of great Roof Cracks at T-wall too. Hands Across America.
Cheers
Eman
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sungam
Dec 16, 2011, 8:32 AM
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Lazlo wrote: Don't nobody free my aid climb! If I see anyone with a chalk bag near my route......
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camhead
Dec 16, 2011, 12:33 PM
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guangzhou wrote: A friend of mine lived near the area, so I've spent some time at Dawson, but never managed to free Thermonuclear crack. I've manged to do most of the routes there. One person above mentioned Champagne Jams, not sure, it's been nearly a decade, but I think the route is actually Champain Jams because of the cobbles inside. A couple of great Roof Cracks at T-wall too. Hands Across America. Cheers Eman
I got bored a couple years ago, and put together this incomplete list of roof cracks across the world.
In reply to: The Monument, White Bluff, 5.12+ Zombie Roof, Squamish, 5.13a Coffin Roof, Little Cottonwood, 5.12a Capitol Roof, Capitol Reef, UT, 5.11 Master Blaster, Zion, 5.13+ Fiddler on the Roof, Fremont Canyon, 5.13+ Separate Reality, Yosemite, 5.11+ Desperate Reality, Wichita Mtns., 5.12b Desert Reality, Red Rocks, 5.11 Arkansas Reality, Sam's Throne, 5.11c Celestial Mechanics, Tennessee Wall, 5.12c (longest continuous roof splitter that I've yet seen) Hands Across America, Tennessee Wall, 5.12c Dream Thiever, Red River Gorge, 5.12a Stolen Tiggers, New River Gorge, 5.12b Biodiesel, New River Gorge, 5.13b Greatest Show on Earth, New River Gorge, 5.13a Kansas City, Gunks, 5.12c Jean's Overhang, Tishomingo, MS, 5.12a Champagne Jam, Sandrock, AL, 5.12+ Thermonuclear, Dawson Bluffs, KY, 5.13- International: Greenspit, Valle de Orco, Italy, 5.14- (?) Passport to Insanity, Grampians, Aus, 5.12c Kalbarri Gold, Western Australia, 5.12 There are certainly some that I've forgotten.
Add the recent Necronomicon in Canyonlands to this list.
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johnwesely
Dec 16, 2011, 1:16 PM
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If you want one more obscure Southern classic, the Zipper in Atlanta is supposed to be pretty cool.
(This post was edited by johnwesely on Dec 16, 2011, 1:16 PM)
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olderic
Dec 16, 2011, 2:26 PM
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camhead wrote: I got bored a couple years ago, and put together this incomplete list of roof cracks across the world. In reply to: The Monument, White Bluff, 5.12+ Zombie Roof, Squamish, 5.13a Coffin Roof, Little Cottonwood, 5.12a Capitol Roof, Capitol Reef, UT, 5.11 Master Blaster, Zion, 5.13+ Fiddler on the Roof, Fremont Canyon, 5.13+ Separate Reality, Yosemite, 5.11+ Desperate Reality, Wichita Mtns., 5.12b Desert Reality, Red Rocks, 5.11 Arkansas Reality, Sam's Throne, 5.11c Celestial Mechanics, Tennessee Wall, 5.12c (longest continuous roof splitter that I've yet seen) Hands Across America, Tennessee Wall, 5.12c Dream Thiever, Red River Gorge, 5.12a Stolen Tiggers, New River Gorge, 5.12b Biodiesel, New River Gorge, 5.13b Greatest Show on Earth, New River Gorge, 5.13a Kansas City, Gunks, 5.12c Jean's Overhang, Tishomingo, MS, 5.12a Champagne Jam, Sandrock, AL, 5.12+ Thermonuclear, Dawson Bluffs, KY, 5.13- International: Greenspit, Valle de Orco, Italy, 5.14- (?) Passport to Insanity, Grampians, Aus, 5.12c Kalbarri Gold, Western Australia, 5.12 There are certainly some that I've forgotten. Add the recent Necronomicon in Canyonlands to this list.
Your "world" seems a bit US centric
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Lazlo
Dec 16, 2011, 3:21 PM
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sungam wrote: Lazlo wrote: Don't nobody free my aid climb! If I see anyone with a chalk bag near my route...... Wait, I thought I had a free ticket to being personally guided to Graphic Nature for the epic FFA attempt at the uber classic aid line?
Exactly. That's why I don't want anyone else near it.
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styndall
Dec 16, 2011, 3:26 PM
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johnwesely wrote: If you want one more obscure Southern classic, the Zipper in Atlanta is supposed to be pretty cool.
I tried that a couple of years ago. It's such a weird formation - just a single jutting roof over a jogging trail.
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johnwesely
Dec 16, 2011, 4:21 PM
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styndall wrote: johnwesely wrote: If you want one more obscure Southern classic, the Zipper in Atlanta is supposed to be pretty cool. I tried that a couple of years ago. It's such a weird formation - just a single jutting roof over a jogging trail.
It is something I have always wanted to do but never gotten around to.
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cracklover
Dec 16, 2011, 4:43 PM
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johnwesely wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: sungam wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb? As long as it is free aid, why not? Hard roof cracks get aided all the time. For example, Camhead practically aided KCC there were so many fixed nutz on it from other aiders. next time you're in colorado, stop by eldo with your aid rack and try getting on the naked edge....make sure you bring a video camera because the ensuing ass-kicking you get will be gold! Because aiding an obscure roof crack is even in the same neighborhood as aiding one of the most popular moderate free climbs in the world.
You trying to open up the "what is moderate?" debate again?
Unless you've done the Edge, don't go spewing about it. If you have, well... okay.
G
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cracklover
Dec 16, 2011, 4:49 PM
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6pacfershur wrote: sungam wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb? As long as it is free aid, why not? Hard roof cracks get aided all the time. For example, Camhead practically aided KCC there were so many fixed nutz on it from other aiders. next time you're in colorado, stop by eldo with your aid rack and try getting on the naked edge....make sure you bring a video camera because the ensuing ass-kicking you get will be gold!
Wait, you live on the Front Range? If so, how is it you don't realize that Country Club Crack (an even more popular free climb) gets aided by everyone when they're first learning?
GO
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johnwesely
Dec 16, 2011, 4:50 PM
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cracklover wrote: johnwesely wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: sungam wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb? As long as it is free aid, why not? Hard roof cracks get aided all the time. For example, Camhead practically aided KCC there were so many fixed nutz on it from other aiders. next time you're in colorado, stop by eldo with your aid rack and try getting on the naked edge....make sure you bring a video camera because the ensuing ass-kicking you get will be gold! Because aiding an obscure roof crack is even in the same neighborhood as aiding one of the most popular moderate free climbs in the world. You trying to open up the "what is moderate?" debate again? Unless you've done the Edge, don't go spewing about it. If you have, well... okay. G
I was just trying to get 6pac's goat. Real 5.11 trad is a little bit more than moderate.
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cracklover
Dec 16, 2011, 5:01 PM
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johnwesely wrote: cracklover wrote: johnwesely wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: sungam wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb? As long as it is free aid, why not? Hard roof cracks get aided all the time. For example, Camhead practically aided KCC there were so many fixed nutz on it from other aiders. next time you're in colorado, stop by eldo with your aid rack and try getting on the naked edge....make sure you bring a video camera because the ensuing ass-kicking you get will be gold! Because aiding an obscure roof crack is even in the same neighborhood as aiding one of the most popular moderate free climbs in the world. You trying to open up the "what is moderate?" debate again? Unless you've done the Edge, don't go spewing about it. If you have, well... okay. G I was just trying to get 6pac's goat. Real 5.11 trad is a little bit more than moderate.
Eh, I'm just butthurt because I didn't climb it clean, so it can't be a moderate. Unless I suck. Which is also possible.
G
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snoopy138
Dec 16, 2011, 5:04 PM
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cracklover wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: sungam wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb? As long as it is free aid, why not? Hard roof cracks get aided all the time. For example, Camhead practically aided KCC there were so many fixed nutz on it from other aiders. next time you're in colorado, stop by eldo with your aid rack and try getting on the naked edge....make sure you bring a video camera because the ensuing ass-kicking you get will be gold! Wait, you live on the Front Range? If so, how is it you don't realize that Country Club Crack (an even more popular free climb) gets aided by everyone when they're first learning? GO
I was under the impression that he lives in california, which just makes the post even more comical.
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snoopy138
Dec 16, 2011, 5:06 PM
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olderic wrote: camhead wrote: I got bored a couple years ago, and put together this incomplete list of roof cracks across the world. In reply to: The Monument, White Bluff, 5.12+ Zombie Roof, Squamish, 5.13a Coffin Roof, Little Cottonwood, 5.12a Capitol Roof, Capitol Reef, UT, 5.11 Master Blaster, Zion, 5.13+ Fiddler on the Roof, Fremont Canyon, 5.13+ Separate Reality, Yosemite, 5.11+ Desperate Reality, Wichita Mtns., 5.12b Desert Reality, Red Rocks, 5.11 Arkansas Reality, Sam's Throne, 5.11c Celestial Mechanics, Tennessee Wall, 5.12c (longest continuous roof splitter that I've yet seen) Hands Across America, Tennessee Wall, 5.12c Dream Thiever, Red River Gorge, 5.12a Stolen Tiggers, New River Gorge, 5.12b Biodiesel, New River Gorge, 5.13b Greatest Show on Earth, New River Gorge, 5.13a Kansas City, Gunks, 5.12c Jean's Overhang, Tishomingo, MS, 5.12a Champagne Jam, Sandrock, AL, 5.12+ Thermonuclear, Dawson Bluffs, KY, 5.13- International: Greenspit, Valle de Orco, Italy, 5.14- (?) Passport to Insanity, Grampians, Aus, 5.12c Kalbarri Gold, Western Australia, 5.12 There are certainly some that I've forgotten. Add the recent Necronomicon in Canyonlands to this list. Your "world" seems a bit US centric
there seems to be an intentional omission of wider cracks as well.
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styndall
Dec 16, 2011, 6:05 PM
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johnwesely wrote: styndall wrote: johnwesely wrote: If you want one more obscure Southern classic, the Zipper in Atlanta is supposed to be pretty cool. I tried that a couple of years ago. It's such a weird formation - just a single jutting roof over a jogging trail. It is something I have always wanted to do but never gotten around to.
I didn't send it, but it was fun to try. It's easy enough to get out there for an hour or two in the afternoon, given how close in it is.
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turbodarky
Dec 16, 2011, 7:38 PM
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snoopy138 wrote: olderic wrote: camhead wrote: I got bored a couple years ago, and put together this incomplete list of roof cracks across the world. In reply to: The Monument, White Bluff, 5.12+ Zombie Roof, Squamish, 5.13a Coffin Roof, Little Cottonwood, 5.12a Capitol Roof, Capitol Reef, UT, 5.11 Master Blaster, Zion, 5.13+ Fiddler on the Roof, Fremont Canyon, 5.13+ Separate Reality, Yosemite, 5.11+ Desperate Reality, Wichita Mtns., 5.12b Desert Reality, Red Rocks, 5.11 Arkansas Reality, Sam's Throne, 5.11c Celestial Mechanics, Tennessee Wall, 5.12c (longest continuous roof splitter that I've yet seen) Hands Across America, Tennessee Wall, 5.12c Dream Thiever, Red River Gorge, 5.12a Stolen Tiggers, New River Gorge, 5.12b Biodiesel, New River Gorge, 5.13b Greatest Show on Earth, New River Gorge, 5.13a Kansas City, Gunks, 5.12c Jean's Overhang, Tishomingo, MS, 5.12a Champagne Jam, Sandrock, AL, 5.12+ Thermonuclear, Dawson Bluffs, KY, 5.13- International: Greenspit, Valle de Orco, Italy, 5.14- (?) Passport to Insanity, Grampians, Aus, 5.12c Kalbarri Gold, Western Australia, 5.12 There are certainly some that I've forgotten. Add the recent Necronomicon in Canyonlands to this list. Your "world" seems a bit US centric there seems to be an intentional omission of wider cracks as well.
I got on this cool 120 ft. roof crack in Canyonlands, Centurion Crack or something... pretty fun lil climb
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camhead
Dec 16, 2011, 9:16 PM
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snoopy138 wrote: olderic wrote: camhead wrote: I got bored a couple years ago, and put together this incomplete list of roof cracks across the world. In reply to: The Monument, White Bluff, 5.12+ Zombie Roof, Squamish, 5.13a Coffin Roof, Little Cottonwood, 5.12a Capitol Roof, Capitol Reef, UT, 5.11 Master Blaster, Zion, 5.13+ Fiddler on the Roof, Fremont Canyon, 5.13+ Separate Reality, Yosemite, 5.11+ Desperate Reality, Wichita Mtns., 5.12b Desert Reality, Red Rocks, 5.11 Arkansas Reality, Sam's Throne, 5.11c Celestial Mechanics, Tennessee Wall, 5.12c (longest continuous roof splitter that I've yet seen) Hands Across America, Tennessee Wall, 5.12c Dream Thiever, Red River Gorge, 5.12a Stolen Tiggers, New River Gorge, 5.12b Biodiesel, New River Gorge, 5.13b Greatest Show on Earth, New River Gorge, 5.13a Kansas City, Gunks, 5.12c Jean's Overhang, Tishomingo, MS, 5.12a Champagne Jam, Sandrock, AL, 5.12+ Thermonuclear, Dawson Bluffs, KY, 5.13- International: Greenspit, Valle de Orco, Italy, 5.14- (?) Passport to Insanity, Grampians, Aus, 5.12c Kalbarri Gold, Western Australia, 5.12 There are certainly some that I've forgotten. Add the recent Necronomicon in Canyonlands to this list. Your "world" seems a bit US centric there seems to be an intentional omission of wider cracks as well.
In the original post that I made this list in, I specified that I was omitting both OWs and crack roof boulder problems.
And I don't know what you mean by it being US centric. Next you're going to be telling me that Sasha D wasn't the first female to climb 14d.
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sungam
Dec 19, 2011, 12:29 PM
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Lazlo wrote: sungam wrote: Lazlo wrote: Don't nobody free my aid climb! If I see anyone with a chalk bag near my route...... Wait, I thought I had a free ticket to being personally guided to Graphic Nature for the epic FFA attempt at the uber classic aid line? Exactly. That's why I don't want anyone else near it.
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Gmburns2000
Dec 19, 2011, 1:11 PM
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6pacfershur wrote: johnwesely wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: sungam wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb? As long as it is free aid, why not? Hard roof cracks get aided all the time. For example, Camhead practically aided KCC there were so many fixed nutz on it from other aiders. next time you're in colorado, stop by eldo with your aid rack and try getting on the naked edge....make sure you bring a video camera because the ensuing ass-kicking you get will be gold! Because aiding an obscure roof crack is even in the same neighborhood as aiding one of the most popular moderate free climbs in the world. please take this opportunity to explain the criteria to us: when is it acceptable to aid climb a free climb and when is it not...............
Well, at least we know you have no visions of doing the Nose any time soon then.
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rangerrob
Dec 19, 2011, 5:33 PM
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6pac, I'd like to address your question of when it is acceptable to aid a previously freed route. The answer, or course, is....Anytime you feel like it. As long as you're not altering the rock by repeated nailing, or cam hooking, what's the difference, and why would anyone else even care? That's the beauty of climbing. You can climb in whatever style your heart desires.
My question to you would be, why wouldn't it be acceptable to aid climb on any route of your choice, providing you're not tying up a popular route all day?
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rangerrob
Dec 19, 2011, 5:37 PM
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To my knowledge, Spinal Traction in the Gunks has not gone free yet, despite a few hard climbers working it. I had heard somewhere that it was suspected that if it does go freee it will be in the mid 14 range. It's a 30-35' dead horizontal tips and fingers crack and goes on aid at C2.
RR
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6pacfershur
Dec 19, 2011, 5:38 PM
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finally, a rational reply.........apparently it all comes down to personal tastes and ethics, as with many of the topics discussed on this forum
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redlude97
Dec 19, 2011, 7:25 PM
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6pacfershur wrote: finally, a rational reply.........apparently it all comes down to personal tastes and ethics, as with many of the topics discussed on this forum
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6pacfershur
Dec 19, 2011, 9:52 PM
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to clarify....
aid climbing on established free climbs is lame;
(seems im in the minority on this one)
the nose is an example of a mixed free/aid big wall that a few strong climbers have free climbed
nobody i know cares about boulder canyon
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redlude97
Dec 19, 2011, 10:13 PM
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6pacfershur wrote: to clarify.... aid climbing on established free climbs is lame; (seems im in the minority on this one) the nose is an example of a mixed free/aid big wall that a few strong climbers have free climbed nobody i know cares about boulder canyon
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csproul
Dec 19, 2011, 11:56 PM
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6pacfershur wrote: to clarify.... aid climbing on established free climbs is lame; (seems im in the minority on this one)
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snoopy138
Dec 20, 2011, 1:02 AM
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6pacfershur wrote: to clarify.... aid climbing on established free climbs is lame; (seems im in the minority on this one)
can you explain why?
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guangzhou
Dec 20, 2011, 2:46 AM
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snoopy138 wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: to clarify.... aid climbing on established free climbs is lame; (seems im in the minority on this one) can you explain why?
Most likely not.
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johnwesely
Dec 20, 2011, 3:43 AM
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6pacfershur's posts remind me of my dad when he talks about climbing. My dad has climbed a total of three days in his life.
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6pacfershur
Dec 20, 2011, 3:48 AM
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this thread is trolled-out.......
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rangerrob
Dec 20, 2011, 4:18 AM
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6pac, I am actually pretty interested to hear why you think it is lame. You seem to have a very strong opinion about aid climbing and I'mjust curious as to why.
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climbingtrash
Dec 20, 2011, 4:48 AM
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snoopy138 wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: to clarify.... aid climbing on established free climbs is lame; (seems im in the minority on this one) can you explain why?
Probably because he thinks aid climbing = pounding pins, which would be uncool on a free route.
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hyhuu
Dec 20, 2011, 12:28 PM
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Back to the original topic. Now while I can only dream of ever climbing something that hard, I can't believe the 10th hardest roof crack is only a 5.13a. The hardmen and hardwomen out there must be slacking.
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camhead
Dec 20, 2011, 1:10 PM
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hyhuu wrote: Back to the original topic. Now while I can only dream of ever climbing something that hard, I can't believe the 10th hardest roof crack is only a 5.13a. The hardmen and hardwomen out there must be slacking.
Thanks for getting back to the topic!
I'm not sure where the "10th hardest" designation comes from; I would expect that it goes back to Tim Toula's big quest to climb the nation's hardest roof cracks back in the late 90s or so. It has seen very few ascents, but like anything in the Southeast, this could be due to conditions more than its inherent difficulty. I have heard it called more like "12+" from someone who climbed it.
Although roof cracks are not the most popular style of climbing right now, it would be cool to revamp the "10 hardest" list. I'll get right on it, since my trip to T-wall just got postponed by rain. 
(This post was edited by camhead on Dec 20, 2011, 1:11 PM)
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camhead
Dec 20, 2011, 1:53 PM
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Hardest Roof Cracks in North America (no OWs or boulder problems need apply)
La Zébreé, 14a, Val-David, Quebec. FA: Jean-Francois Beaulieu (pre-placed gear); PeeWee Ouellett (placing gear on lead)
Necronomicon, 13+/14-, Canyonlands. FA: PeeWee Ouellett.
Comprometido, South Platte, CO, FA: Jason Haas.
Fiddler on the Roof, 13d, Fremont Canyon, WY. FA: Steve Petro.
Army of Darkness, 13+, Canyonlands, FA: Rob Pizem.
Master Blaster, 13+, Zion, FA: Ben Gilkinson.
Those are the cracks in North America that I can think of in the 13+ and up range.
There are a lot of 13-'s. Thermonuclear at Dawson's, Champagne Jam at Sandrock; Tamper Proof & Supernova at T-wall; Greatest Show on Earth and Biodiesel at the NRG; Toit de Ben at Val-David; Zombie Roof in Squamish; Desert Reality in Red Rocks (though the roof section is only 11+).
Any additions?
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IsayAutumn
Dec 20, 2011, 3:36 PM
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What did that (finger?) crack above Handsome and Well Hung end up going at? I think I remember it only being 13-, but I could be wrong.
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IsayAutumn
Dec 20, 2011, 3:43 PM
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camhead wrote: IsayAutumn wrote: What did that (finger?) crack above Handsome and Well Hung end up going at? I think I remember it only being 13-, but I could be wrong. that's thermonuclear, 13b. I don't think it's seen a repeat. there are a lot of rumors of looseness getting up to it.
Oh, I see. I guess I was confused, then, by the title of this thread. Thought the OP was talking about a crack in KY...?
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camhead
Dec 20, 2011, 4:02 PM
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IsayAutumn wrote: camhead wrote: IsayAutumn wrote: What did that (finger?) crack above Handsome and Well Hung end up going at? I think I remember it only being 13-, but I could be wrong. that's thermonuclear, 13b. I don't think it's seen a repeat. there are a lot of rumors of looseness getting up to it. Oh, I see. I guess I was confused, then, by the title of this thread. Thought the OP was talking about a crack in KY...?
Oh shit, my bad. Typed the wrong route name. The route at the NRG above "Handsome..." is "Biodiesel," NOT Thermonuclear. Wrong energy source.
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hyhuu
Dec 20, 2011, 7:08 PM
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Interesting. So is any of those roof cracks off-finger size? What qualifies as a "roof crack"?
(This post was edited by hyhuu on Dec 20, 2011, 7:10 PM)
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hyhuu
Dec 20, 2011, 8:39 PM
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camhead wrote: hyhuu wrote: Interesting. So is any of those roof cracks off-finger size? What qualifies as a "roof crack"? The only one I know that is off-fingers would be Master Blaster, though others might have short sections of off-fingers. To define a "roof crack," this criteria would make sense: -at least a body length long (you should not be able to reach over it while your feet are still plastered underneath it) -Between 45 and 90 degrees overhanging -can't be a corner in which you can undercling (though a lot of the routes on the list are not splitters, either, they are offset to some degree) sound good?
Sound good. How steep is Cobra crack? I can't tell from the video.
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rangerrob
Dec 21, 2011, 3:03 PM
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Spinal Traction definitely qualifies for a roof crack. Right now I nominate it as the hardest roof crack attempted. Anyone else want to put forth another project roof crack?
I'm still waiting to hear back from 6pac about his reasoning for such a strong statement. Come on 6pac, come play with us!!
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briarpatch
Dec 21, 2011, 5:14 PM
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I got in it (Thermonuclear) a few times about five years ago. My best effort got me to the end of the roof where it starts the round transition to vertical. Mostly perfect hands with fists at the transition. The first five feet of the roof was a bit perplexing to figure out. Overall, a really cool 25' of horizontal roof with some pretty gymnastic climbing (did close to 20' of it feet first).
As far as the grade goes I don't have much to compare it to, but 12+ seems reasonable. Specific training on roof simulators would be very helpful. This one is all about endurance and overall fitness. I may have poor pic of it somewhere.
Chris
(This post was edited by briarpatch on Dec 22, 2011, 5:56 AM)
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