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mtnsplitters
Feb 10, 2012, 8:44 PM
Post #26 of 35
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Registered: Jan 27, 2010
Posts: 7
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Hey Durin,
I was just posting some tech-tip threads and saw this thread post. Have you checked out the School for International Expedition Training (SIET)? Advanced Mountaineering courses in the Cordillera Blanca (the Chamonix of South America) for folks exactly like yourself.
Link: http://expeditiontraining.org/international.php
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Durin
Feb 13, 2012, 6:25 AM
Post #27 of 35
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Registered: Nov 18, 2007
Posts: 113
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splitters, looks like a cool program, but it seems pretty similar to NOLS.
Their requirements include tying a figure eight, rope coiling abilities and steep snow travel.
On the other end of the spectrum there's Alpine Mentors which requires onsighting 5.11 trad, WI5 and M6 and they take only the best 2-4 applicants. That will be a stretch for me, but we'll see.
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rangerrob
Feb 14, 2012, 11:50 PM
Post #28 of 35
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Registered: Apr 8, 2003
Posts: 641
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I have to offer this up. If you onsite 5.11 trad, WI6, and M6....chances are you probably don't need to pay someone to teach you Alpine climbing. Just go do your onsite climbing on some 5,000' route in Alaska.
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cclarke
Feb 15, 2012, 12:10 AM
Post #29 of 35
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Registered: Apr 25, 2003
Posts: 160
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I thought the whole point was that he wanted to find a place like Camp 4, but for alpine climbing, so he could find partners and not that he needed to learn how to climb.
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adnix
Mar 17, 2012, 7:08 PM
Post #30 of 35
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Registered: May 20, 2003
Posts: 584
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Durin wrote: On the other end of the spectrum there's Alpine Mentors which requires onsighting 5.11 trad, WI5 and M6 and they take only the best 2-4 applicants. That will be a stretch for me, but we'll see.
If you really want the best place on this planet to learn alpine climbing I'd suggest El Chalten in Patagonia. With your leading skills you should be able to find someone to show you the other half of it. If you can do Nose/HD link-up and feel comfortable on M6, WI6 and 5.11, technically you can do just about anything in Fitz Roy massif. In reality you can't, of course, but techically you could.
In El Chalten all the climbers know each other and 90% of the climbers are in good shape.. In Chamonix it's much harder finding partners since it's proper town with loads of people. And maybe 10% of the climbers do the grades you mentioned.
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trad0001
Mar 30, 2012, 4:04 PM
Post #31 of 35
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Registered: Mar 30, 2012
Posts: 6
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are there any specific websites for Chamonix or the Alps that are like Cascadeclimbers, rockclimbing.com, or mountainproject like we have for the US and canada
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yves
Mar 30, 2012, 8:54 PM
Post #32 of 35
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 125
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Have a look at http://www.camptocamp.org/
This site is an European equivalent of rc.com and will cover some of the informnation you are looking for.
If you want something specific on Chamonix area, go to OHM in Chamonix (do not have the web address). It will provide you with some advice, update on routes being done, partners, etc ...
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Durin
May 12, 2012, 4:08 AM
Post #33 of 35
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Registered: Nov 18, 2007
Posts: 113
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I got into tryouts for Alpine Mentors, so we'll see what happens!
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Schaps
May 15, 2012, 1:51 AM
Post #34 of 35
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Registered: Mar 28, 2012
Posts: 3
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Chamonix can not be topped as THE area to become addicted to alpinism! A good approach would be to take a course specially in alpinism from the British Mountaineering Council and then to spend a month or two in the area with a partner who is similarly skilled. There are numerous hotels etc. in the town - much better (and safer) than the typical campgrounds (e.g., Snell's field ) which are not conveniently located to the telepherique.
The best hangout is the "Bar Nationalé " usually packed with English climbers. It's not too difficult to hook up with a "partner" BUT I would be very careful - they may be more talk than walk.
I disagree with those who say that it is easy to transition from even highly accomplished pure rock climbing to alpinism. They are activities which share some common skills but alpinism requires rock skills and much much more- the "self sufficiency survival" mentality of being a safe alpinist is far more demanding than that of even big wall climbing like El Cap - where you are a quick heli lift away from rescue.
In summary:
1. get some training in alpine skills from a reputable guide or organisation - preferably in France ( so as to begin to learn the culture and "flow" of the life - timing, hut life, weather )
2. Go with a trusted partner who has or is learning the same level of alpine skills. Don't just pick up partners from the "Bar Nash"
3. Pick a comfortable safe hotel room as a valley base - but plan on spending as much time camping up high so as to acclimatise and be near the routes.
3. Be careful of one certain French woman.,,,but that's another story!
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majid_sabet
May 15, 2012, 6:45 AM
Post #35 of 35
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Registered: Dec 13, 2002
Posts: 8390
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you need to climb in either Karakorum Pakistan or in Nepal.
This where you find your next Yosemite or chamonix challenge
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