The very fact that you're in a gym makes it different. nice temps, flat ground, the ropes are up, you've got an anchor, there's probably some music on, if you forget your lunch it's no big deal.

yes it is all climbing. But how long does it take to set a gym route?

I have spent upwards of 3 days on a single route, bolting and cleaning. And driving the 90 miles each way, freezing my ass off, baking in the sun, blowing masonite dust out my nose, wiping it out of my eyes and ears, trashing my rope, not climbing, and spending 80 bucks on steel. And getting the anchor in usually means burning more bolts or doing something stupid/dangerous and being scared shitless.

Well, here I am, drunk, sitting in a bar on a sunday nite, in teh heart of teh 909, staring down 2 more g&t's, sitting by myself with too fat punk rocker bitches that are tring to get in too my pants, getting ready to walk into the Descendents!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1.

Yea, i noes most ov ewe kids won't understand,

Still...........




Maybe sum day ewe will



Oh n fer teh record....

I due so many gnu roots,

Cuz they give me jiant boners.

Well, here I am, drunk, sitting in a bar on a sunday nite, in teh heart of teh 909, staring down 2 more g&t's, sitting by myself with too fat punk rocker bitches that are tring to get in too my pants, getting ready to walk into the Descendents!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1.

Yea, i noes most ov ewe kids won't understand,

Still...........




Maybe sum day ewe will



Oh n fer teh record....

I due so many gnu roots,

Cuz they give me jiant boners.

Well, here I am, drunk, sitting in a bar on a sunday nite, in teh heart of teh 909, staring down 2 more g&t's, sitting by myself with too fat punk rocker bitches that are tring to get in too my pants, getting ready to walk into the Descendents!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1.

Yea, i noes most ov ewe kids won't understand,

Still...........




Maybe sum day ewe will



Oh n fer teh record....

I due so many gnu roots,

Cuz they give me jiant boners.

Well, here I am, drunk, sitting in a bar on a sunday nite, in teh heart of teh 909, staring down 2 more g&t's, sitting by myself with too fat punk rocker bitches that are tring to get in too my pants, getting ready to walk into the Descendents!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1.

Well, here I am, drunk, sitting in a bar on a sunday nite, in teh heart of teh 909, staring down 2 more g&t's, sitting by myself with too fat punk rocker bitches that are tring to get in too my pants, getting ready to walk into the Descendents!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1.

Yea, i noes most ov ewe kids won't understand,

Still...........




Maybe sum day ewe will



Oh n fer teh record....

I due so many gnu roots,

Cuz they give me jiant boners.

O.K., a PT gripe.

My stupid insurance doesn't cover the PT i used to go to (a friend of mine). The PT that it DOES cover is horrible.

I am going to my friend the PT anyway, and she is giving me a great deal on it, payment-wise.

But I am still going to the paid-for PT, too, because, well, it is paid for, and exercise is good, right?

Except, I swear, it seems like they are doing PT for two different things. Sure, there are so many exercises out there, but you'd think there would be at least some overlap? It's like, 10%, maybe (e.i. 1 in 10 exercises that they prescribe are actually in common, sort of). And the things they say are so different.

My friend has me work with ankle weights, while the other PT says, no-no-no, absolutely no weights, it is dangerous (duh, we are talking 1.5 lb!!! and I don't feel even the slightest burn without weights after 30 reps, which my friend says is about as many as I should be doing-- e.i. if I don't feel anything with 30 reps, it is better to add some weight instead of doing 60 reps). The other PT seems to just nod, when I tell her that it doesn't feel like I am working the muscle, and tells me to just do 20 reps, doesn't matter if it is hard or easy.

On the other hand, my friend says not to use any pulling straps for the ROM stretches, just the weight on the limb, and the other PT tells me to pull as hard as I can.

And that is on the only two exercises that they have in common, LOL. Everything else is different.

I trust my friend, because she has gotten me through other lengthy rehabs before, AND she understands that when I mean return to activity I do not mean a walk from the couch to the kitchen. And she pays a lot of attention to form.

The other PT essentially makes me feel like there is no point in even seeing her. She prints out the exercises for me (which I can find by google search!) and never watches what people are doing. When I ask her things like, should I have the toe pointed, or flexed, or am i supposed to be straightening the knee as I do it, or keep it slightly flexed, she just says, oh, just do what you can. Well, DUH, tell me what I am supposed to be working TOWARDS, if I cannot do it yet, I will try, at least.

And it is really sad to see the difference between people who go to these two places. My friend's office is in affluent suburb, and even the frail elderly people who are working on lifting their arms above shoulder level after surgery, or people who get in there on crutches, and walkers, and wheelchairs, still look "well" overall. Groomed, nice haircuts and clothes, and they look like generally-fit healthy people temporarily in wheelchairs. The other place is... inner-suburb slowly but surely going down. Half-empty strip mall next to it. And people who come to PT there are overall just looking sick and down. Mostly very overweight, too. But they don't look like "if you just picture them out of wheelchair, they seem like they are living a good life." Even the conversations are different. First place there is chatter about travels, and holiday plans, and kids, and shows, and concerts, and plays, and what not. The other place mostly gripes and complaints about traffic, work, weather.

And can you guess predominant skin color at practice 1, vs practice 2? This is so disheartening! And the thing is, if I DIDN'T know what good PT was, if I DIDN'T see both places side-to-side, would i even notice, or think about it?

Sad.

I remember going to the hospital supplied PT after my accident. All they cared was that I got off my crutches, then seems shocked when I told them I needed to get better enough to climb and carry a pack out to the crag.

I felt insulted with them too. They once told I should realize I may never climb again. The only real reason I kept going was because they had a therapy pool which I felt was beneficial to rebuild my legs and get rid of the crutches.

Another day, more failz on this new tard proj I've got. Didn't think it would be all that hard when I started, but for some reason this crux is not coming together. Really finicky footwork and some small slimpers and nipples. I've taken the fall onto the bomber .3 camalot about 8 times now, and it's not sketchy, but the cam cable is starting to get bent pretty bad.

A strong friend of mine, Craig, TR'd the line last week while I was working it, and has declared that he is going to steal the FA from me. Theoretically, it is possible, since he is way stronger than me, but he's never really headpointed much, and I've never seen him push it way above gear. Plus, he mostly just talks about big tard routes he wants to do but then never does. But still, there's a chance; he did OS the Beav in Jtree last year.

Today, was pretty good conditions, so Chris and I went out to the crag for an evening sesh. I was feeling really good, had taken a few days off and my skin was fresh. Chris and I were joking that I should send, tell Craig that I had not sent, then leave a note in one of the upper pockets for Craig to find when he went to scoop the FA. SOmething like, "haha, fuck you, sent it, bitch!"

Felt really light and bouncy on the first go, cruised through the 12a intro 50 feet. Got almost all the way through the crux but didn't hit this deadpoint to a slimper the right way. Second go, was more tired, hadn't rested enough since it was getting dark. Fail again. We just got back, and Craig is not believing that I did not send. He thinks we are fucking with him so that he'll climb it. This is some kind of reverse reverse psychology shit. Heh.

Another day, more failz on this new tard proj I've got. Didn't think it would be all that hard when I started, but for some reason this crux is not coming together. Really finicky footwork and some small slimpers and nipples. I've taken the fall onto the bomber .3 camalot about 8 times now, and it's not sketchy, but the cam cable is starting to get bent pretty bad.

A strong friend of mine, Craig, TR'd the line last week while I was working it, and has declared that he is going to steal the FA from me. Theoretically, it is possible, since he is way stronger than me, but he's never really headpointed much, and I've never seen him push it way above gear. Plus, he mostly just talks about big tard routes he wants to do but then never does. But still, there's a chance; he did OS the Beav in Jtree last year.

Today, was pretty good conditions, so Chris and I went out to the crag for an evening sesh. I was feeling really good, had taken a few days off and my skin was fresh. Chris and I were joking that I should send, tell Craig that I had not sent, then leave a note in one of the upper pockets for Craig to find when he went to scoop the FA. SOmething like, "haha, fuck you, sent it, bitch!"

Felt really light and bouncy on the first go, cruised through the 12a intro 50 feet. Got almost all the way through the crux but didn't hit this deadpoint to a slimper the right way. Second go, was more tired, hadn't rested enough since it was getting dark. Fail again. We just got back, and Craig is not believing that I did not send. He thinks we are fucking with him so that he'll climb it. This is some kind of reverse reverse psychology shit. Heh.

Another day, more failz on this new tard proj I've got. Didn't think it would be all that hard when I started, but for some reason this crux is not coming together. Really finicky footwork and some small slimpers and nipples. I've taken the fall onto the bomber .3 camalot about 8 times now, and it's not sketchy, but the cam cable is starting to get bent pretty bad.

A strong friend of mine, Craig, TR'd the line last week while I was working it, and has declared that he is going to steal the FA from me. Theoretically, it is possible, since he is way stronger than me, but he's never really headpointed much, and I've never seen him push it way above gear. Plus, he mostly just talks about big tard routes he wants to do but then never does. But still, there's a chance; he did OS the Beav in Jtree last year.

Today, was pretty good conditions, so Chris and I went out to the crag for an evening sesh. I was feeling really good, had taken a few days off and my skin was fresh. Chris and I were joking that I should send, tell Craig that I had not sent, then leave a note in one of the upper pockets for Craig to find when he went to scoop the FA. SOmething like, "haha, fuck you, sent it, bitch!"

Felt really light and bouncy on the first go, cruised through the 12a intro 50 feet. Got almost all the way through the crux but didn't hit this deadpoint to a slimper the right way. Second go, was more tired, hadn't rested enough since it was getting dark. Fail again. We just got back, and Craig is not believing that I did not send. He thinks we are fucking with him so that he'll climb it. This is some kind of reverse reverse psychology shit. Heh.

well, you'll just have to keep going back and failing enough that he starts to believe ewe. only then do you zend and leave him the note.

So in the vein of PT, etc, it was potluck night with the ladies I ride with this past Tuesday. Someone arranged for a guest speaker to come in and tell us about his practice. He is an RMT but does this rekinetics stuff.

So one of the ladies I ride with has a steel plate in her neck. It effects her range of motion. He had her do arm raises with the good and the bad arm (shoulder really). Anyway, she had problems lifting the bad arm above her head, it would bind at a couple of spots. He had her do some exercises and she magically raised her bad arm with no problem!

The whole thing would seem like a hoax, except there's no way this woman was in on it. The deal is about reprogramming your brain and nervous system to make your body move better.

Anywho, I've ben doing a lot of drytool training, and the figure 4s and 9s and super stressful on the leg I broke years ago, my hip muscles are not happy with me. I think I'm going to go see this dude and see if he can help. Because frankly, there's no reason my bad leg should be my bad leg anymore.

But if you go to rekinetics website, man-oh-man does it look like a hoax page trying to sell you a magic diet pill, or the only-crock-pot-you-would-ever-need-in-your-life, or something like that.

I guess the question is, how much money are you willing to spend on an attempt?

That's what I have been missing this entire time! Why didn't someone say so earlier?

Fuck yes! I hope they play "I Don't Want to Grow Up." That could be yore theme song, heh.

did teh oracle never show up?

It' a case ov, 'You don't know what you don't know'.

How can any of these guys tell you about the jiant boner, when they don't even know it exists?

So in the vein of PT, etc, it was potluck night with the ladies I ride with this past Tuesday. Someone arranged for a guest speaker to come in and tell us about his practice. He is an RMT but does this rekinetics stuff.

So one of the ladies I ride with has a steel plate in her neck. It effects her range of motion. He had her do arm raises with the good and the bad arm (shoulder really). Anyway, she had problems lifting the bad arm above her head, it would bind at a couple of spots. He had her do some exercises and she magically raised her bad arm with no problem!

The whole thing would seem like a hoax, except there's no way this woman was in on it. The deal is about reprogramming your brain and nervous system to make your body move better.

Anywho, I've ben doing a lot of drytool training, and the figure 4s and 9s and super stressful on the leg I broke years ago, my hip muscles are not happy with me. I think I'm going to go see this dude and see if he can help. Because frankly, there's no reason my bad leg should be my bad leg anymore.

It' a case ov, 'You don't know what you don't know'.

How can any of these guys tell you about the jiant boner, when they don't even know it exists?