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granite_grrl
Jul 9, 2015, 12:25 PM
Post #105001 of 105309
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Just stop embarrassing yore self.
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camhead
Jul 9, 2015, 12:46 PM
Post #105002 of 105309
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Wow, that was like the cheesetit equivalent of the first 20 mins of Saving Private Ryan.
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tripperjm
Jul 9, 2015, 1:13 PM
Post #105003 of 105309
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yea, eye noes....
I tried to fix it but it just got so messy, I just left it there like a jiant dump on the belay ledge so ewe'all could just point and laugh at my failure.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Jul 9, 2015, 3:36 PM
Post #105004 of 105309
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camhead wrote: Wow, that was like the cheesetit equivalent of the first 20 mins of Saving Private Ryan.
I couldn't believe my I'z!
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snoopy138
Jul 9, 2015, 3:57 PM
Post #105005 of 105309
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tripperjm wrote: yea, eye noes.... I tried to fix it but it just got so messy, I just left it there like a jiant dump on the belay ledge so ewe'all could just point and laugh at my failure.
where did the quote about fixed gearz come from?
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lena_chita
Moderator
Jul 9, 2015, 3:59 PM
Post #105006 of 105309
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The weather here has sucked the last few days. In all the years before now,I haven't lost a single climbing day to the rain. But this trip we've had 3 days sort-of ruined by rain.
Yesterday we got lucky. It looked like crap, it looked like the skies were going to open any moment, but we hiked to FCR anyway. And while it rained a bit, it ended up being quite a good day, didn't start raining in earnest until the hike out (we were soaked! but it was still a good day).
There was a climb there that I've been on once before, and I wanted to redpoint it, and I thought I'd go up first, hang the draws, check out the moves... But it felt good, so I sent it as a warmup, hanging draws and awl. And it felt way easier than the grade.
Oh, and i also got a redpoint on that route I bailed on, 4 years ago, the day before yesterday. So, looks like I am finally getting into the climbing shape... just in time for the trip ending. As usual.
I think two days ago was the first time I came down from the climb and said, O.K., I can now believe that the knee surgery was worth it. Up until now I wasn't REALLY sure, bc it seemed like I was overall climbing better before the surgery, even if the knee was hurting... but after surgery, the knee wasn't hurting, but it wasn't functioning properly either, and wasn't getting stronger quite to the level it was before, so seemed like a lot of trouble for no gain...
But there was this 11b/c that I bailed on last year, with wonky knee before surgery. It wasn't even the crux, from what people were telling me, but it was a long move with a push initiated from the bad leg, with the other foot just flagging, and I could not do it last year. Just couldn't. No problem this year.
AND!!!! And, and, and!!!! I did a pistol squat on the gimp leg yesterday!!!! A recognizable pistol squat, down and up. Just one... but still... WOO?
I think those hikes are good for me.
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granite_grrl
Jul 9, 2015, 6:01 PM
Post #105007 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: The weather here has sucked the last few days. In all the years before now,I haven't lost a single climbing day to the rain. But this trip we've had 3 days sort-of ruined by rain. Yesterday we got lucky. It looked like crap, it looked like the skies were going to open any moment, but we hiked to FCR anyway. And while it rained a bit, it ended up being quite a good day, didn't start raining in earnest until the hike out (we were soaked! but it was still a good day). There was a climb there that I've been on once before, and I wanted to redpoint it, and I thought I'd go up first, hang the draws, check out the moves... But it felt good, so I sent it as a warmup, hanging draws and awl. And it felt way easier than the grade. Oh, and i also got a redpoint on that route I bailed on, 4 years ago, the day before yesterday. So, looks like I am finally getting into the climbing shape... just in time for the trip ending. As usual. I think two days ago was the first time I came down from the climb and said, O.K., I can now believe that the knee surgery was worth it. Up until now I wasn't REALLY sure, bc it seemed like I was overall climbing better before the surgery, even if the knee was hurting... but after surgery, the knee wasn't hurting, but it wasn't functioning properly either, and wasn't getting stronger quite to the level it was before, so seemed like a lot of trouble for no gain... But there was this 11b/c that I bailed on last year, with wonky knee before surgery. It wasn't even the crux, from what people were telling me, but it was a long move with a push initiated from the bad leg, with the other foot just flagging, and I could not do it last year. Just couldn't. No problem this year. AND!!!! And, and, and!!!! I did a pistol squat on the gimp leg yesterday!!!! A recognizable pistol squat, down and up. Just one... but still... WOO? I think those hikes are good for me.
Super glad to hear the surgery was worth it. The idea of going under the knife for little to ne gain would suck.
I'm feeling strong lately, My climbing last Sunday was subpar IMO, but in general I feel my endurance and strength is way up from last year.
Now I just need to find a project that inspires me.... 
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lena_chita
Moderator
Jul 9, 2015, 6:35 PM
Post #105008 of 105309
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granite_grrl wrote: lena_chita wrote: The weather here has sucked the last few days. In all the years before now,I haven't lost a single climbing day to the rain. But this trip we've had 3 days sort-of ruined by rain. Yesterday we got lucky. It looked like crap, it looked like the skies were going to open any moment, but we hiked to FCR anyway. And while it rained a bit, it ended up being quite a good day, didn't start raining in earnest until the hike out (we were soaked! but it was still a good day). There was a climb there that I've been on once before, and I wanted to redpoint it, and I thought I'd go up first, hang the draws, check out the moves... But it felt good, so I sent it as a warmup, hanging draws and awl. And it felt way easier than the grade. Oh, and i also got a redpoint on that route I bailed on, 4 years ago, the day before yesterday. So, looks like I am finally getting into the climbing shape... just in time for the trip ending. As usual. I think two days ago was the first time I came down from the climb and said, O.K., I can now believe that the knee surgery was worth it. Up until now I wasn't REALLY sure, bc it seemed like I was overall climbing better before the surgery, even if the knee was hurting... but after surgery, the knee wasn't hurting, but it wasn't functioning properly either, and wasn't getting stronger quite to the level it was before, so seemed like a lot of trouble for no gain... But there was this 11b/c that I bailed on last year, with wonky knee before surgery. It wasn't even the crux, from what people were telling me, but it was a long move with a push initiated from the bad leg, with the other foot just flagging, and I could not do it last year. Just couldn't. No problem this year. AND!!!! And, and, and!!!! I did a pistol squat on the gimp leg yesterday!!!! A recognizable pistol squat, down and up. Just one... but still... WOO? I think those hikes are good for me. Super glad to hear the surgery was worth it. The idea of going under the knife for little to ne gain would suck. I'm feeling strong lately, My climbing last Sunday was subpar IMO, but in general I feel my endurance and strength is way up from last year. Now I just need to find a project that inspires me....
Yeah, I hear you on needing a project that inspires. I was having this issue in Xzzz this year, a combination of already having done the best of the routes in my onsight range, and having already checked the routes that would be in redpoint range, and climbing not-too-well, I just couldn't get psyched on any specific route. I got kinda psyched on one now, but I don't know if it is going to happen on this trip.
And then for the fall... I REALLY need something that I would be psyched on. Banz is finally agreeing to go to Miller Fork with me this fall, since the new book is coming out (he has this thing of not going to a new place, until the guidebook is out... except when he is on road trip and someone tells him that a crag is listed on MP, and there is a gimmie 13a... then he is all about going to that not-in-the-guidebook place!)
So anyway, I'm hoping to check out a bunch of new crags, and I also have a project that i WAS psyched on, from the spring. Not sure how psyched I am now that I blew a pulley on that "project" the first day I worked it. But I still am, sort of.
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caughtinside
Jul 9, 2015, 7:29 PM
Post #105009 of 105309
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I have like 3 active projects. Problem is that my partner sends them before me and then doesn't want to go back.
2 of them are out of season though... gotta wait a few months.
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snoopy138
Jul 9, 2015, 8:03 PM
Post #105010 of 105309
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caughtinside wrote: I have like 3 active projects. Problem is that my partner sends them before me and then doesn't want to go back. 2 of them are out of season though... gotta wait a few months.
Ewe need a weker partner.
Yardarm, Deliverance (or did you get that one?), and The Sic Gnar? That thing at Auburn? On the other hand, at least Hanging by a Thread was onsited, whereas it's still looming for kamhed.
I think I'd have to figure out what makes a project active to determine how many I have ... I'd say Breaking Bad, Drive-by, and Mortal Kombat all definitely fit the bill. Plus plenty of other stuff I've tried once or twice and not gone back to.
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caughtinside
Jul 9, 2015, 8:08 PM
Post #105011 of 105309
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snoopy138 wrote: caughtinside wrote: I have like 3 active projects. Problem is that my partner sends them before me and then doesn't want to go back. 2 of them are out of season though... gotta wait a few months. Ewe need a weker partner. Yardarm, Deliverance (or did you get that one?), and The Sic Gnar? That thing at Auburn? On the other hand, at least Hanging by a Thread was onsited, whereas it's still looming for kamhed. I think I'd have to figure out what makes a project active to determine how many I have ... I'd say Breaking Bad, Drive-by, and Mortal Kombat all definitely fit the bill. Plus plenty of other stuff I've tried once or twice and not gone back to.
That's pretty much it. The Bat Karma.
Never got Deliverance. I punted off it then had to take a month off. Went back out of shape last September one time, but haven't been back since. It's closed from Feb to Aug for nesting.
I think it will go down pretty quick if I go back out there in shape.
Bat Karma too hot. Yardarm is in but it'll be a month before I get back. I'm really close there, but the crux is so hard it's a wildcard. I think it's like v5 or v6? Sic Gnar... hoo noes.
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tripperjm
Jul 10, 2015, 1:01 AM
Post #105012 of 105309
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snoopy138 wrote: tripperjm wrote: yea, eye noes.... I tried to fix it but it just got so messy, I just left it there like a jiant dump on the belay ledge so ewe'all could just point and laugh at my failure. where did the quote about fixed gearz come from?
Eye has know ideaz.....
Like eye says... It just got so messy, eye bailed.
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snoopy138
Jul 10, 2015, 4:01 PM
Post #105013 of 105309
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tripperjm wrote: camhead wrote: snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: Sooo, since I'm newly single and just psyched on teh climb... anyone interested in some sort of Southwest meetup this winter? Might just pack myself into the Tacoma and live out there for a couple months, especially if this new freelance writing gig keeps producing. I was just looking at Lime Kiln Canyon (UT/AZ/NV borderlands), and that place looks amazing! Keep me posted. If our other plans fall through, I would be very tempted. I do want to change up my winter climbing destinations. YES! It's all up in the air, but I kind of want to hang out in Zion/Redrawks area, then maybe by mid january or so start driving down the baja coast or something cool like that. is this going to be like yore long 3-week rode trip this past winter? Well, this time I will not have a lady friend telling me to come back east, or be borrowing another fiernd's car. Knot two worry..... Ther will be another log in the rode fly in the eye. |
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lena_chita
Moderator
Jul 13, 2015, 8:29 PM
Post #105014 of 105309
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caughtinside wrote: I have like 3 active projects. Problem is that my partner sends them before me and then doesn't want to go back. 2 of them are out of season though... gotta wait a few months.
Yup! I was psyched for Banz getting strong, but it was a bummer for me personally, for this exact reason. Now we go somewhere, and he onsights the whole crag, and then he is done with it. So then we have to negotiate the "i'll go here with you on Saturday, if you go there with me on Sunday", instead of having a whole bunch of crags where we both have projects.
Oh well...
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lena_chita
Moderator
Jul 13, 2015, 8:35 PM
Post #105015 of 105309
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Back in the grind here.
Had a bit of an adventure getting back. Our flight got canceled at the last moment because "the plane was broken"-- I kid you not, that was the exact wording of the announcement.
I wouldn't have cared much, but Ed had a surgery scheduled at 6 a.m. today, so it was kinda imperative that we would get back in time. (we didn't know when we left for the trip when the surgery was going to be scheduled...)
Anyway, we made it. Waving the I-have-surgery-tomorrow card got us on a later plane from another airline, but we didn't get home until 1 a.m. So getting up at 5 a.m. sucked. A lot. But the rest of the day has gone smoothly.
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snoopy138
Jul 14, 2015, 4:33 PM
Post #105016 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: Back in the grind here. Had a bit of an adventure getting back. Our flight got canceled at the last moment because "the plane was broken"-- I kid you not, that was the exact wording of the announcement. I wouldn't have cared much, but Ed had a surgery scheduled at 6 a.m. today, so it was kinda imperative that we would get back in time. (we didn't know when we left for the trip when the surgery was going to be scheduled...) Anyway, we made it. Waving the I-have-surgery-tomorrow card got us on a later plane from another airline, but we didn't get home until 1 a.m. So getting up at 5 a.m. sucked. A lot. But the rest of the day has gone smoothly.
well, if the plane was in fact "broken", probibly better not to get on it?
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snoopy138
Jul 14, 2015, 4:37 PM
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weke end report for me, was that I went to Old New, sent the Reacharound, and put in some work on Fuck Authority.
I should really put these routes on sendage.com so you guise would have some idea what I'm talking about.
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caughtinside
Jul 14, 2015, 5:48 PM
Post #105018 of 105309
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snoopy138 wrote: weke end report for me, was that I went to Old New, sent the Reacharound, and put in some work on Fuck Authority. I should really put these routes on sendage.com so you guise would have some idea what I'm talking about. 
Nothing happening over here. Went for a Nice Hike over the weekend.
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granite_grrl
Jul 14, 2015, 5:59 PM
Post #105019 of 105309
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Feel like I'm climbing well, and have been sampling routes looking for projects. Not finding much that's particularly inspiring unfortunately.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Jul 14, 2015, 7:33 PM
Post #105020 of 105309
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snoopy138 wrote: lena_chita wrote: Back in the grind here. Had a bit of an adventure getting back. Our flight got canceled at the last moment because "the plane was broken"-- I kid you not, that was the exact wording of the announcement. I wouldn't have cared much, but Ed had a surgery scheduled at 6 a.m. today, so it was kinda imperative that we would get back in time. (we didn't know when we left for the trip when the surgery was going to be scheduled...) Anyway, we made it. Waving the I-have-surgery-tomorrow card got us on a later plane from another airline, but we didn't get home until 1 a.m. So getting up at 5 a.m. sucked. A lot. But the rest of the day has gone smoothly. well, if the plane was in fact "broken", probibly better not to get on it?
I didn't say I wanted to get on THAT one. I just wanted a not-broken plane that was on time. I know, completely unreasonable of me.
But it was weird bc this plane had just landed and pulled up to the gate, and was discharging people, and nobody there looked like they had any clue that the plane they just arrived in was "broken".
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climbs4fun
Moderator
Jul 16, 2015, 1:49 AM
Post #105021 of 105309
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Registered: Mar 19, 2003
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Hi gerkz. Just catching up. The facebooker's know, but I'm moving to the Phoenix area (AKA the sun). Packing suuuuuuucks!!!!!!!!
Lena, I left your book out to send to you. I promise  
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caughtinside
Jul 16, 2015, 4:42 PM
Post #105024 of 105309
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snoopy138 wrote: climbs4fun wrote: Hi gerkz. Just catching up. The facebooker's know, but I'm moving to the Phoenix area (AKA the sun). Packing suuuuuuucks!!!!!!!! Lena, I left your book out to send to you. I promise What's in F33nix, besides even more heat than Vegas?
Good luck with the move!
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