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elcapbuzz
Mar 16, 2003, 7:01 PM
Post #26 of 34
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Registered: Aug 24, 2001
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Haa haa haa, you're too funny Pete.......
No, we didn't bring a thermos.
We brought instant coffee (rolled in a plastic bag). We boiled water (in a small camp fire) with a chili can we used the night before and cut off a water bottle for a cup. We then flattened the can with our hammers and put it at the bottom of the hualbag.
Cheers mate, Ammon
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passthepitonspete
Mar 16, 2003, 7:22 PM
Post #27 of 34
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Registered: Oct 10, 2001
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Geez, you had me worried for a second. I thought you were going to say that you put a pinch of instant coffee between your lip and your teeth. [Note: I have never done this with coffee, only 'baccy]
Mmmmm-mm! Chili-flavoUred coffee! Ya just gotta love it, eh?
As for the bit about cutting off the top of the water bottle to make a cup:
The Place: Big Sur Ledge, Sea of Dreams, El Capitan
The Setting: The infamous Keg Party, May 2001
Says I: "Sorry, mate - I've only got one cup. You'll have to wait til I finish my beer....."
That barnacle-bitten scurvy-ridden sea-dog Ammon had his pocket knife whipped out so fast, and that bottle decapitated so quickly, one would have thought he once worked as an executioner on the guillotine!
AAARRRRRR, may-tee!!!!
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elcapbuzz
Mar 16, 2003, 8:13 PM
Post #28 of 34
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Registered: Aug 24, 2001
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Hey man, I don't mess around when it comes to beer......... or coffee.
No, we had enough water to clean out all the remains of chili. Actually this was Brian's idea, he should get ALL the credit for being ghetto, Hhaa haa haa.
Haa haa haa, too funny!!!
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elcapbuzz
Mar 25, 2003, 5:14 AM
Post #29 of 34
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Registered: Aug 24, 2001
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Here's a couple links to the trip reports in Zion.
Enjoy!!
Cheers, Ammon
http://www.rocknrun.net/latitudes.html
http://www.rocknrun.net/linkup.html
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kalcario
Mar 25, 2003, 6:29 AM
Post #30 of 34
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Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 1601
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Ok, please don't get pissed at me here, not trying to dis...
I dug the article on your website, great pictures too. The first picture shows McCray with the Streaked Wall in the background. It's huge. I'm thinking "Those guys did that in a day...holy fuck...look at that thing..." then I scroll down and am slightly surprised to find a picture of McCray bivied on a ledge 5 pitches up on what is advertised as a one day ascent, and it turns out that you guys one-dayed the steep part of the route and that the 5 "approach pitches" apparently did'nt count. Flame me if you want but to me this seems like claiming a one day of the Salathe when you started from Mammoth Terraces, just because the approach pitches are non-tech or low angle compared to the rest of the route does'nt mean they're not part of the wall...again no dis intended, I don't know shit about walls, just trying to give you a layman's perspective here...
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copperhead
Mar 25, 2003, 6:36 AM
Post #31 of 34
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Registered: Nov 26, 2002
Posts: 668
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Latitudes looks like fun.
Nice work you wrascally wrascals!
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atg200
Mar 25, 2003, 3:56 PM
Post #32 of 34
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Registered: Jul 27, 2001
Posts: 4317
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wow ammon, that trip report was fantastic. i'm sweating in my cubicle - that was maybe the best description of hard sandstone aiding i've ever read.
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elcapbuzz
Mar 25, 2003, 5:06 PM
Post #33 of 34
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Registered: Aug 24, 2001
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Kalcario,
You have a right to be confused, we were too...... and that's why I'm VERY open about our ascent.
I already anticipated this debate.
The difference is written in the topo's.
The first pitch of the Salathe starts at the Freeblast. Mamoth Terraces is 11 pitches up.
Look at the topo for Latitudes. It starts at Rubicon Ledge.
Our initial plan was to do the approach pitches along with the route but realized it didn't really matter.
Ok, if these pitches are part of the route..... show me ANY documentation of them. They were never written up as a topo because they are NOT part of the route.
Believe me, we discussed this issue with the first ascentists before we started.
Cheers, Ammon
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grippedclimber
Mar 27, 2003, 9:07 PM
Post #34 of 34
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Registered: Sep 24, 2002
Posts: 65
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Nice pictures of the wall! That route looks great. Sad to hear that Lunar has deteriorated. I hope no one is nailing on it. I have made the mistake of using cam hooks on sandstone before. It was not on a trade route but still. They worked well until one time, ping and I totally blew a placement. I have repented of my ways and feel really bad about doing this. After that I put those hooks away and will never use them on sandstone again. So the moral of the story, PLEASE DONT USE CAMHOOKS IN ZION PEOPLE nobody told me not to do this thing that I should have had enough sense to figure out myself. I told you, many others have said so before so just dont do it it ruins great routes like Lunar X. maybe I should make a separate post for my rants.
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