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jay_climbingchick


Mar 16, 2003, 10:18 AM
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What is the best Trad Shoe?
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I was wondering what the best trad shoe is? I am just starting out and I have one other pair for sport but I heard that there is a shoe made for Trad. Can you help me anyone? :D


Partner camhead


Mar 16, 2003, 11:54 AM
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word.

most folks seem to go with the mythos for a good comfortable but high performance all around-er. If you are thinking moderate but long routes, you may want one of the glorified approach shoes such as the 5.10 Huecos.

Personally, however, I prefer comfortably sized Moccasyms. nice enough to wear al day, but they can still crank in the occasional hard crack. get them one size smaller than your street shoe, and they will stretch to comfortable perfection.


jerrygarcia


Mar 16, 2003, 12:49 PM
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Boreal aces. It really depends on your feet. Do not buy shoes online that you havent tried on already.


shortfatoldguy


Mar 16, 2003, 1:58 PM
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I like my 5.10 Ascents for trad. They're not all that precise (like that would matter to me, climbing trad), but they smear well and are very comfy in cracks.


onamission116


Mar 18, 2003, 6:12 AM
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I've heard good things about Mythos, but personally I have found that after I broke in my 510 Moccasyms they were GREAT. Nice and cheap (relativly) and they stick like glue. Highly recommend them.


crag


Mar 18, 2003, 4:03 PM
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Best trad shoe: Best Fit for all day climbing :lol:
I've used the Scarpa Edge, The 5.10 Newton with no complaints.


dsafanda


Mar 18, 2003, 4:10 PM
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I'm a bit surprised to hear others mention Moccasyms but I have to agree. That's my favorite shoe for Yosemite.


vegastradguy


Mar 18, 2003, 4:16 PM
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I love my Huecos, although i dont use them for approaches. They are killer for descents, though. I dont need to carry up a pair of shoes for the walk off (Red Rocks walk offs suck).

They're the most comfy shoe, and perform well on the rock. Make me happy.


markf


Mar 18, 2003, 4:32 PM
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I hope this doesn't sound sarcastic, but the best shoe for any kind of climbing is the one that fits your feet best. The Boreal Ace is a well made, comfortable shoe that fits a lot of people well, and works really well in cracks and on vertical or less than vertical climbs, which is what a lot of trad climbing is. They're a little on the pricey side, and they very seldom are discounted, but they're also durable enough that they can be resoled a couple of times before they are worn out.


crack_head


Mar 18, 2003, 5:01 PM
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what about the miuras? anyone used those for trad?


joerockclimbs


Mar 19, 2003, 1:31 PM
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I own a pair of the Mythos that a few have talked about and I like them, but I also have a pair of Scarpa Dominators (the old Purple ones) and I like the precise toe that they give me.


venezuela


Mar 22, 2003, 2:26 PM
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I have the La sportiva MYTHOS, and i love them.
my best-friend/mentor/bud/climbing-teacher......has a pair of Boreal Aces. before, he had a Mythos, and he didn't dislike them. he thinks they're great, but he thinks that the Aces are better.

Diego


ajkclay


Mar 24, 2003, 4:41 AM
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I just love climbing in my scarpa dominators- (the new grey ones), I used to have aces, but they sucked on anything edgey or overhung.

However, on a multipitch that took 4 hours a few weeks ago, the comfort of aces would have been nice :lol: (I took the dominators off at each belay :lol: )

My second was wearing his dominator v's, and boy did he wish he'd worn his aces :lol: :lol: :lol:


slab-dyno
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Mar 25, 2003, 5:53 PM
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I've have to go with markf on this one. It's all about the shoe that fits best, suits your style of climbing, and is comfortable. Personally, I've had a lot of luck with the Mythos, and I'm thinking of giving the Newtons a try.

Jimmy


Partner missedyno


Sep 11, 2003, 5:41 AM
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should i buy the 5.10 newtons [In reply to]
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aaaaaah! i don't think i've ever started my own shoe thread, and i'm trying not to by bringing this one back up.

my current "trad" shoes are just a reeeeeally old pair from when i first started climbing. comfortable(ish), nonsticky rubber, sole peeling off... i really don't want to invest in a resole for these guys.

so i was looking at the 5.10 newton. looks like it would be great for crack climbing and comfortable for multipitch.


holmeslovesguinness


Sep 11, 2003, 7:05 AM
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Newtons are definitely a comfortable all day shoe if you size them right, good alternative to Aces I would imagine. I especially like the extra support in the midsole when I'm doing wide cracks. They also stink like crazy, but it's a small price to pay.


herm


Sep 11, 2003, 7:13 AM
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The Sportiva Kaulkulators are a great meat and potatoes crack climbing shoe, and they face climb well. A trad shoe should be comfy, and be a little beefier than what you would wear for sport climbing.
5.10 Ascents are good. Boreal has been making trad shoes as long as most climbers have been around, check them out, too.


froggy


Sep 11, 2003, 8:31 AM
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Moccasyms for everything.. As long as you don't need to edge on small things for a long way (Toulmne) - something stiffer would be easier on your feet for sure, but for the most part I love my Moccasyms and Zlippers.


tylerm


Sep 11, 2003, 9:03 AM
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best shoe for trad [In reply to]
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I loved my murias for trad, or any type of climbing for that matter. Once they were broken in, they were perfect for all-day stuff. The only problem is they can be a bit daunting on the toes, however that is the comprimise for having a great shoe. They also lasted me for about 2-3 full years (w/2 resoles) until I finally busted out the toes. Best shoe I've ever owned.


okcdirtbag


Sep 11, 2003, 9:05 AM
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I'm right there with ya, my muirras are the best freakin shoes i've climbed in!


punk


Sep 11, 2003, 9:13 AM
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kodos to herm,
Kaulk's, syncro's and 5.10 ascend are the bomb


caughtinside


Sep 11, 2003, 9:37 AM
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I've got Newtons and dig em. I've had them longer, but they seem to fit my feet better than the moccasyms I've got.

Yes, they do stink like crazy, and they do not stretch much at all.

Oh, and I had to get a second pair because the first ones I got had a few defects in the rubber. Free replacement though.


petsfed


Sep 11, 2003, 10:52 AM
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For most cracks, Mythos, Aces, Spires, Cliffs, any already mentioned work just grand. However (and this is a real pet peeve of mine) there are few good off-width shoes. My regular shoes (Sportiva Katanas) are great at thin seams up to off-hands, but cannot heel and toe jam worth beans. You will note by my location that off-widthing is necessary, nay, recommended to enjoy oneself at Vedauwoo. So here's what I've found works well for wide cracks: exceedingly soft shoes. I use 5.10 moccassyms. My partner uses third resole 5.10 spires. Get 'em well broken in so you can flex and smear easily. The jam comes from strong feet, not strong shoes. Shoes that excell for edging tend to suck it up for offwidthing. And if you can edge inside the off-width, well, you're not getting the full experience now are you?


tendertendons


Sep 16, 2003, 11:40 AM
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I've got the 5.10 Newtons and they're sized to accomodate a thin pair of lycra socks (thus eliminating the stinkin' problem that others here are complaining about). Best heel fit I could find and comfy all day too. I really like the edging ability of these shoes and for my style of climbing they're great for getting solid footwork when setting pro. Got the Dragons for sport climbing and they saw me from 5.9 through 5.11+ but are pretty much toast now.
Great shoes both... but for different applications.


acrofobic


Sep 16, 2003, 12:24 PM
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I really like my EBs from 1976. They seem to be really sticky and great in cracks. :lol:


fredo


Sep 16, 2003, 12:51 PM
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I like the La Sportiva Enduro, I also enjoy using the Scarpa Generator if my enduros are in the shop


jtreelizard


Sep 16, 2003, 3:59 PM
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I've been using the Newtons and I love them. I found that I needed the size a bit bigger than I normally get with other shoes (has anyone else noticed this, or do I just have a weird pair?) :? Also, don't buy them a size too small expecting them to stretch! :x


ronamick


Sep 17, 2003, 6:53 PM
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Whaddya mean TRAD shoe? You're gonna climb on rock, right? Get rock climbing shoes, ya twit!


ronamick


Sep 17, 2003, 6:58 PM
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In reply to:
I really like my EBs from 1976. They seem to be really sticky and great in cracks. :lol:

Have you put those things on recently? I remember my first pair. I called them "magic shoes" because of the wondrous things they enabled me to do on the rock.

I tried the old ee bees again last year, and I am absolutely certain that I could climb better with plywood boxes tied to my feet with baling wire. They didn't feel bad, they felt horrible. Don't edge, don't smear.... how did we manage to climb 5.11 in those things!?


rckjock


Sep 17, 2003, 7:01 PM
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Same as for any other climbing... Depends on the climb..


dlintz


Sep 17, 2003, 8:50 PM
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Love my Ascents. I can't rave about their "mad crack skilz" but they get the job done.


acrofobic


Sep 17, 2003, 10:17 PM
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ronamick, yeah, I tried them on again. pretty lame. Real hard on the feet. i know what you mean by boxes.


knuckles


Sep 17, 2003, 11:21 PM
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I don't go far back enough for EB's but I did bust out my old Fires recently... pretty bad indeed. I distinctly remember when the Ninja first came out and all my climbing buddys looked at me like I was nuts for wearing them instead of getting a new pair of Fire Cat II's.

I do wish that they would bring back something that would cover some of my ankle for those long cracks and still climb pretty well. I miss my Kendos...


acrofobic


Sep 18, 2003, 1:00 AM
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The first thing we would do with the old EBs was barge cement and sew suede onto the back half of the EBs to provide more protection in the cracks than the canvas provided.


kirkbrode


Sep 23, 2003, 10:06 PM
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trad shoes [In reply to]
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Depends largly upon the shape of your foot. What's great for all these other folks may not get great for you. That said, you should choose one made by La Sportiva.


traddad


Sep 24, 2003, 6:55 AM
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I have a pair of Newtons and I love/hate them. They fit great, are comfy, but they are WAY TOO STIFF (for me). They also came with a bad batch of rubber. They weren't even sticky out of the box. They aren't sticky even after I sand on 'em with 80 grit and wash 'em off. I'm seriously considering getting them resoled and having the resoler remove the mid sole.
I liked my Mythos. I use the Mad Rock Shark for cracks (only). Anasazi Velcros if the route is 99% face.


Partner rrrADAM


Sep 24, 2003, 7:06 AM
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Whatever fits comfortably, and performs well... You can have em on for a while. :wink:

Lace ups tend to be the best, as they can be tied tight for edging performance, or loose for comfort and smearing.


I liked the Five-Ten Newtons, but now the EVOLV Bandits the best.


bishop


Sep 24, 2003, 7:08 AM
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the one that fits and can be worn all day


dredsovrn


Sep 24, 2003, 7:16 AM
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I have seen the Mocasyms mentioned by many climbers. I am in the market for my next pair of shoes. If you have them, have you found them to be a good all around shoe. I am learing trad, do a lot of TR, boulder at least once a week, and find myself in the gym from time to time. I would prefer not to have specialized shoes for different applications. Is it neccessary? It seems unlikely, but I would like to get some feedback.


tradmike


Sep 24, 2003, 7:21 AM
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If you have a wider shaped foot you will love the LaSportiva Mega for an all purpose shoe. It is very comfortable on long routes. This is the first shoe that I can actually wear all day without any pain. I have tried Scarpa, Five Ten, and other LaSportiva shoes and have been less than happy. The "Mega" rules on comfort (if you have a wider foot).


norskagent


Sep 24, 2003, 7:27 AM
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the old purple la sportiva mariachers.


omenbringer


Sep 24, 2003, 7:54 AM
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I love my old plum colored huecos they are awesome I virtual never take them off when climbing they fit me great right out of the box and seem to do a little bit of everything well. It seems 5.10 has brought them back this year in a gray color. Can hardly wait. As for the mocasym they were awesome as well. I like both. It seems a great crack shoe should have zero camber, leave that for the steep stuff otherwise your feet will be screaming like mine in my katanas when I try the thin stuff.


Partner camhead


Sep 26, 2003, 8:03 AM
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In reply to:
I have seen the Mocasyms mentioned by many climbers. I am in the market for my next pair of shoes. If you have them, have you found them to be a good all around shoe. I am learing trad, do a lot of TR, boulder at least once a week, and find myself in the gym from time to time. I would prefer not to have specialized shoes for different applications. Is it neccessary? It seems unlikely, but I would like to get some feedback.

yes, they are way good all-arounders. just not that durable.


gretchino


Sep 26, 2003, 8:08 AM
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The one that works best for you! :wink:

I'm a La Sportiva gal though...mainly because I've not tried any other brand, but they're well made and fit my anorexic foot really well.


toejam


Sep 29, 2003, 4:41 AM
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I like my Boreal Ballet Gold more than the Mythos for Trad climbing. They are almost as sensitive as the Mythos but much better for jamming. The rubber they came with didn't last long though, tore right through to the rand sliding off of a hold after only a few outings.

I have a pair of Red Chili Sausalitos that are good for long low-grade trad climbs. They are very durable and really comfortable in cracks, but not great smearing on anything slick.

As I see it, the stiffer the last on the shoe, the more comfortable it is in foot jams, and on long climbs. The trade-off is loss of sensitivity on face. A pointed toe area is nice for toejams.


dc


Sep 29, 2003, 4:53 AM
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In reply to:
you should choose one made by La Sportiva.

well said! i personally prefer the Cobras... you know .. the blazing orange, how-can-you-miss-them shoes...


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