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What is the best Trad Shoe?
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fredo


Sep 16, 2003, 12:51 PM
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I like the La Sportiva Enduro, I also enjoy using the Scarpa Generator if my enduros are in the shop


jtreelizard


Sep 16, 2003, 3:59 PM
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I've been using the Newtons and I love them. I found that I needed the size a bit bigger than I normally get with other shoes (has anyone else noticed this, or do I just have a weird pair?) :? Also, don't buy them a size too small expecting them to stretch! :x


ronamick


Sep 17, 2003, 6:53 PM
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Whaddya mean TRAD shoe? You're gonna climb on rock, right? Get rock climbing shoes, ya twit!


ronamick


Sep 17, 2003, 6:58 PM
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I really like my EBs from 1976. They seem to be really sticky and great in cracks. :lol:

Have you put those things on recently? I remember my first pair. I called them "magic shoes" because of the wondrous things they enabled me to do on the rock.

I tried the old ee bees again last year, and I am absolutely certain that I could climb better with plywood boxes tied to my feet with baling wire. They didn't feel bad, they felt horrible. Don't edge, don't smear.... how did we manage to climb 5.11 in those things!?


rckjock


Sep 17, 2003, 7:01 PM
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Same as for any other climbing... Depends on the climb..


dlintz


Sep 17, 2003, 8:50 PM
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Love my Ascents. I can't rave about their "mad crack skilz" but they get the job done.


acrofobic


Sep 17, 2003, 10:17 PM
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ronamick, yeah, I tried them on again. pretty lame. Real hard on the feet. i know what you mean by boxes.


knuckles


Sep 17, 2003, 11:21 PM
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I don't go far back enough for EB's but I did bust out my old Fires recently... pretty bad indeed. I distinctly remember when the Ninja first came out and all my climbing buddys looked at me like I was nuts for wearing them instead of getting a new pair of Fire Cat II's.

I do wish that they would bring back something that would cover some of my ankle for those long cracks and still climb pretty well. I miss my Kendos...


acrofobic


Sep 18, 2003, 1:00 AM
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The first thing we would do with the old EBs was barge cement and sew suede onto the back half of the EBs to provide more protection in the cracks than the canvas provided.


kirkbrode


Sep 23, 2003, 10:06 PM
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trad shoes [In reply to]
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Depends largly upon the shape of your foot. What's great for all these other folks may not get great for you. That said, you should choose one made by La Sportiva.


traddad


Sep 24, 2003, 6:55 AM
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I have a pair of Newtons and I love/hate them. They fit great, are comfy, but they are WAY TOO STIFF (for me). They also came with a bad batch of rubber. They weren't even sticky out of the box. They aren't sticky even after I sand on 'em with 80 grit and wash 'em off. I'm seriously considering getting them resoled and having the resoler remove the mid sole.
I liked my Mythos. I use the Mad Rock Shark for cracks (only). Anasazi Velcros if the route is 99% face.


Partner rrrADAM


Sep 24, 2003, 7:06 AM
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Whatever fits comfortably, and performs well... You can have em on for a while. :wink:

Lace ups tend to be the best, as they can be tied tight for edging performance, or loose for comfort and smearing.


I liked the Five-Ten Newtons, but now the EVOLV Bandits the best.


bishop


Sep 24, 2003, 7:08 AM
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the one that fits and can be worn all day


dredsovrn


Sep 24, 2003, 7:16 AM
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I have seen the Mocasyms mentioned by many climbers. I am in the market for my next pair of shoes. If you have them, have you found them to be a good all around shoe. I am learing trad, do a lot of TR, boulder at least once a week, and find myself in the gym from time to time. I would prefer not to have specialized shoes for different applications. Is it neccessary? It seems unlikely, but I would like to get some feedback.


tradmike


Sep 24, 2003, 7:21 AM
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If you have a wider shaped foot you will love the LaSportiva Mega for an all purpose shoe. It is very comfortable on long routes. This is the first shoe that I can actually wear all day without any pain. I have tried Scarpa, Five Ten, and other LaSportiva shoes and have been less than happy. The "Mega" rules on comfort (if you have a wider foot).


norskagent


Sep 24, 2003, 7:27 AM
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the old purple la sportiva mariachers.


omenbringer


Sep 24, 2003, 7:54 AM
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I love my old plum colored huecos they are awesome I virtual never take them off when climbing they fit me great right out of the box and seem to do a little bit of everything well. It seems 5.10 has brought them back this year in a gray color. Can hardly wait. As for the mocasym they were awesome as well. I like both. It seems a great crack shoe should have zero camber, leave that for the steep stuff otherwise your feet will be screaming like mine in my katanas when I try the thin stuff.


Partner camhead


Sep 26, 2003, 8:03 AM
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In reply to:
I have seen the Mocasyms mentioned by many climbers. I am in the market for my next pair of shoes. If you have them, have you found them to be a good all around shoe. I am learing trad, do a lot of TR, boulder at least once a week, and find myself in the gym from time to time. I would prefer not to have specialized shoes for different applications. Is it neccessary? It seems unlikely, but I would like to get some feedback.

yes, they are way good all-arounders. just not that durable.


gretchino


Sep 26, 2003, 8:08 AM
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The one that works best for you! :wink:

I'm a La Sportiva gal though...mainly because I've not tried any other brand, but they're well made and fit my anorexic foot really well.


toejam


Sep 29, 2003, 4:41 AM
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I like my Boreal Ballet Gold more than the Mythos for Trad climbing. They are almost as sensitive as the Mythos but much better for jamming. The rubber they came with didn't last long though, tore right through to the rand sliding off of a hold after only a few outings.

I have a pair of Red Chili Sausalitos that are good for long low-grade trad climbs. They are very durable and really comfortable in cracks, but not great smearing on anything slick.

As I see it, the stiffer the last on the shoe, the more comfortable it is in foot jams, and on long climbs. The trade-off is loss of sensitivity on face. A pointed toe area is nice for toejams.


dc


Sep 29, 2003, 4:53 AM
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you should choose one made by La Sportiva.

well said! i personally prefer the Cobras... you know .. the blazing orange, how-can-you-miss-them shoes...

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