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crackaddict
Mar 23, 2003, 10:59 PM
Post #26 of 48
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Really cool!
He made it look 5.10.
I I just thought there would be more intensity going on with a person climbing 5.15.
Thats all!
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brianthew
Mar 23, 2003, 11:25 PM
Post #27 of 48
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Registered: Mar 25, 2002
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Crazy.
I think dlintz had it right though. Obviously it's just a 10b or so since he didn't let out any primal screams. Ever see Sharma on Realization? He was letting everybody in France know about his sending. http://www.tc.umn.edu/~wray0016/emots/lol.gif
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topher
Mar 23, 2003, 11:29 PM
Post #28 of 48
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Registered: May 19, 2002
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i dont want this to sound bad, but i dont think thats 15a (i couldnt climb it) an secondly that looks like a dumb route. rope drage is nasty and its all aover the place it doesnt fallow a natural sort of feture of logical path! relization looked much more harder.
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renobdarb
Mar 24, 2003, 12:42 AM
Post #29 of 48
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In reply to: Really cool! He made it look 5.10. I just thought there would be more intensity going on with a person climbing 5.15. Thats all!
It just goes to show you how good this guy really is...
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bandycoot
Mar 24, 2003, 1:04 AM
Post #30 of 48
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Registered: Nov 25, 2002
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Concerning the rope drag. Sharma had to skip clips because the climbing was so hard and took uber falls as a result. This had so many damn bolts, I don't see why a climber wouldn't skip every other one to reduce rope drag which appeared to be huge! It's overhung and the fall wouldn't be bad. Sharma had the balls to skip clips, so I wonder if someone repeating the route could clip fewer bolts thus downgrading the difficulty of the climbing by reducing ropedrag. I'm not going to say that I don't think that it is 15a since I think that it is LAME that anyone on this site who doesn't climb hard 5.14 could make that claim, but the fewer clip experiment would definitely be an interesting one to run!
Josh
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rwaltermyer
Mar 24, 2003, 2:02 AM
Post #31 of 48
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Registered: Aug 10, 2001
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i agree...sharma made Realization look like a 15a...perhaps all the falls that the video showed before he sent the thing made for quite a finale...nonetheless.... I'd like to see Sharma on that one.
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ckershner0
Mar 24, 2003, 2:17 AM
Post #32 of 48
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
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where would one go to see the realization video?
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surforclimb
Mar 24, 2003, 2:34 AM
Post #33 of 48
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Registered: Dec 30, 2002
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looks way to easy for that grade. the holds that are visable look really good and positive. also that was way to many clips. there were like 5 clips in like a total of 10 moves. i think the concensis of this forum is that it is not a 15a.
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bandycoot
Mar 24, 2003, 6:59 AM
Post #34 of 48
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Who cares about the consensus of the forum :?: How many people that have climbed that route have posted in this discussion? It may not look 15a, but the reading I did on it made it sound pretty damn hard :!: Gee, and I wonder why people have started to shy away from ratings. Then people go and bitch about them not rating it! Not like those who bitch could ever climb that level anyways. :?
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kalcario
Mar 24, 2003, 7:22 AM
Post #35 of 48
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Registered: Sep 25, 2002
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Bear in mind that you're not watching actual redpoint footage as you were with Realization, the cameraman in La Rambla is jumaring while the climber hangs on the bolts, that's why the moves look easy...also a friend of mine watched Elie Chevieux try La Rambla a few years ago, this is a guy who has onsighted 2 14a's and v10 at Hueco, and he said that this guy was utterly bouted and "could not put together 2 moves in a row".
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igcuesta
Mar 24, 2003, 8:25 AM
Post #36 of 48
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Registered: Sep 27, 2001
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Regarding the clips, (though I have not see him sending the route) I'm pretty sure that Ramonet skipped some of the bolts. Andrada, on the first traverse, used to skip up to 3 consecutive bolts while trying to send.
As the video was not recorded while sending it does not make sense to skip some bolts: the climber would probably wanted to rest on some of them.
By the way, some time ago, when asked about the route on an interview Sharma said that eventualy he would try La Rambla.
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bighigaz
Mar 24, 2003, 2:29 PM
Post #37 of 48
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Registered: Sep 30, 2002
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The video is really good... but I still think Sharma's "Realization" is a step above it...
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koko
Mar 24, 2003, 5:23 PM
Post #38 of 48
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Registered: Jan 15, 2003
Posts: 139
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dont they know what runners are???
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mike_ok
Mar 24, 2003, 5:29 PM
Post #39 of 48
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Registered: Feb 21, 2003
Posts: 345
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i'm interested in the Realization video too. Anyone have the link?
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pbjosh
Mar 24, 2003, 5:35 PM
Post #40 of 48
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Registered: Mar 22, 2002
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All you people with your "doesn't look like 15a," "don't they know what runners are," and "why doesn't he skip clips" comments are tools.
Listen to what other people have said - this is not a redpoint. This is the climber climbing for the camera and resting on bolts while the cameraman jugs.
Freaking idiots, downrating a route that's likely at least 20 grades above your own ability.
josh
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rockinitinark
Mar 24, 2003, 5:49 PM
Post #41 of 48
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Registered: Sep 15, 2002
Posts: 105
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The Realization video is'nt anywhere where you can get it for free, you can buy the dosage vol 1. and see it their, or you can see clips at www.bigupproductions.com the trailor for dosage vol 1.
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beercanclimber
Mar 24, 2003, 5:59 PM
Post #42 of 48
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Registered: Sep 17, 2002
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In reply to: The Realization video is'nt anywhere where you can get it for free,
this is wrong, you can watch a good deal of it at
http://www.climbxmedia.com
just click on The Dose, the green button at the bottom and you can watch a bunch of diff clips, including realization.
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rockinitinark
Mar 24, 2003, 6:04 PM
Post #43 of 48
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Registered: Sep 15, 2002
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climbx and big up are the same thing just different names, its owned by the lowell brothers, and its still the trailor to the dosage vol. 1. their is a few pics of sharma and a good editorial about it which is always good eh?
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rockinitinark
Mar 24, 2003, 6:09 PM
Post #44 of 48
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Registered: Sep 15, 2002
Posts: 105
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oops was'nt done with that but, their might be a free video floating around on the net somwhere but its not at cxm, you should go back and see that the video is expired.
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funktimonious
Mar 24, 2003, 6:25 PM
Post #45 of 48
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Registered: Oct 18, 2002
Posts: 330
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I've got the ten minute clip of Chris going throught the crux and some other commentary by Graham. I got it off some guy's FTP account (he posted the username and password, but I can't find it now b/c the search tool blows). Anyway, it's 58.3 MB and seeing how i think everyone should see this piece of art, I could send it to anyone's FTP account if they want it. You just need to PM me with your USERNAME and PASSWORD and i'll give it to you.
--Peace.
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rockinitinark
Mar 24, 2003, 6:31 PM
Post #46 of 48
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Registered: Sep 15, 2002
Posts: 105
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they have that clip on cxm but its like a slide show still pretty kick ass tho :shock:
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mikedano
Mar 24, 2003, 6:42 PM
Post #47 of 48
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Registered: Dec 19, 2001
Posts: 388
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Woah dude that's a LONG route. And the climber looks REALLY good.
Did anyone else notice his foot positions? At some points he had his foot behind or below the rope, meaning that it would flip him if he fell. It's one of my pet peves...
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beercanclimber
Mar 24, 2003, 6:59 PM
Post #48 of 48
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Registered: Sep 17, 2002
Posts: 915
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In reply to: Did anyone else notice his foot positions? At some points he had his foot behind or below the rope, meaning that it would flip him if he fell. It's one of my pet peves
i guess if anyone is allowed to get away with it it should be sharma...
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