|
bvb
Mar 24, 2003, 12:40 AM
Post #2 of 70
(7238 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 3, 2003
Posts: 954
|
so, whaddid ya do, drop yer lovetron? i thnk there's a good A4 hook placement 17' over your head and 8' to your left.
|
|
|
|
|
apollodorus
Mar 24, 2003, 1:02 AM
Post #3 of 70
(7238 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 18, 2002
Posts: 2157
|
Actually, he DID drop the Lovetron (no, I dropped it). Luckily it was after he used it where he had to. Amazingly, it walked back to Camp 4 and waited for us at the ranger's kiosk.
|
|
|
|
|
bandycoot
Mar 24, 2003, 1:07 AM
Post #4 of 70
(7238 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 25, 2002
Posts: 2028
|
I have to play the ignorant fool. What is a lovetron, and can someone explain to me the ethics behind what he is doing that is cheating (I can't even tell exactly WHAT he is doing due to my vast ignorance in the realm of aid but would like to learn!!!)
Josh
|
|
|
|
|
climbingpride
Mar 24, 2003, 1:59 AM
Post #5 of 70
(7238 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 6, 2001
Posts: 571
|
He's useing his Big Wall hammer for a cheater stick! Man! Us sport climbers use those light telescoping polls. Sheesh. And Bigwallers/Aid Climbers think think they're all that. They can't even cheat good/well- whatever one is proper english. Or if your like me and 6'5.5" You could have reached it w/o aid.
*stilll wonders why you take pictures of you cheating.
|
|
|
|
|
bighigaz
Mar 24, 2003, 2:11 AM
Post #6 of 70
(7238 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 30, 2002
Posts: 696
|
PTPP, I think I sense a bit of nervous sarcasm in your post, eh... :lol:
|
|
|
|
|
passthepitonspete
Mar 24, 2003, 2:17 AM
Post #7 of 70
(7238 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2001
Posts: 2183
|
Uh-oh. Did William have his nine-thousand-millimetre lens trained on me? Is there a picture lurkingout there somewhere?
{Dr. Piton glances nervously round, and loosens the collar on his, uh, T-shirt. Funny, is it getting warm in here?}
|
|
|
|
|
tanner
Mar 24, 2003, 3:17 AM
Post #8 of 70
(7238 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 28, 2002
Posts: 491
|
isn't aid climbing all about cheating?
I don't aid climb (My friends would punch me if I pull on gear)
|
|
|
|
|
oklahoma_climber
Mar 24, 2003, 3:42 AM
Post #9 of 70
(7238 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 26, 2002
Posts: 204
|
In reply to: isn't aid climbing all about cheating? I don't aid climb (My friends would punch me if I pull on gear) |
|
|
|
|
pbjosh
Mar 24, 2003, 4:06 AM
Post #10 of 70
(7238 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 22, 2002
Posts: 1518
|
Correct me if I'm wrong Pete & other valley wall trivia buffs, but a Lovetron is a cheatstick for walls that Randy Leavitt came up with to reach past blank stretches to gear placements/hooks instead of drilling past them. Of course, the though of a hook on a 10-20' pole with a rope attached that you place blindly and then jug up kinda doesn't jive with me.
josh
|
|
|
|
|
terrainerist
Mar 24, 2003, 4:11 AM
Post #11 of 70
(7238 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 25, 2002
Posts: 36
|
Yeah... it's aid climbing! Why not a rope with a boat anchor sized grapling hook like Batman used to use! :)
|
|
|
|
|
flying_dutchman
Mar 24, 2003, 4:45 AM
Post #12 of 70
(7238 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 20, 2002
Posts: 708
|
its just aid climbing with a little more 'aid'
|
|
|
|
|
duskerhu
Mar 24, 2003, 6:15 AM
Post #13 of 70
(7238 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 13, 2002
Posts: 1023
|
Uh, correct me if I'm wrong here, but, isn't aid climbing in and of itself "cheating" so to speak??? I mean, as long as you're using gear for upward advancement I think you'd be in the realm of aid climbing, right?
I think cheating in aid would be more like pulling a few "Free" moves when you can instead of pulling on gear...
:lol: :lol: :lol:
duskerhu
|
|
|
|
|
philbox
Moderator
Mar 24, 2003, 6:32 AM
Post #14 of 70
(7238 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2002
Posts: 13105
|
In reply to: Uh, correct me if I'm wrong here, but, isn't aid climbing in and of itself " cheating" so to speak??? I mean, as long as you're using gear for upward advancement I think you'd be in the realm of aid climbing, right? I think cheating in aid would be more like pulling a few " Free" moves when you can instead of pulling on gear... :lol: :lol: :lol: duskerhu
Nah mate you`d be doing a Mixed climb then.
...Phil...
|
|
|
|
|
northerntouch
Mar 24, 2003, 6:38 AM
Post #15 of 70
(7238 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 4, 2003
Posts: 20
|
I thought a mixed climb was rock and ice.... not to start a argument.
|
|
|
|
|
apollodorus
Mar 24, 2003, 6:50 AM
Post #16 of 70
(7238 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 18, 2002
Posts: 2157
|
Aid climbers have used many cheat devices, including throwing a rope (c.f., first ascent of the Lost Arrow Spire; later, Harding, Pratt Chouinard on the South face of Mt. Watkins; etc.). Nothing is cheating until you drill, and then it's Justified Cheating.
If that Batman faggot would actually come to the Valley, and work his magic, he'd be a stud. But, he sits in his Hollywood Sound Stage, surrounded by the Special Effectists, sipping Perrier water and waiting for the producers to say, "WE'VE GOT THE FUNDING FOR A SEQUEL!!!"
I have yet to see his "stuff" (or James Bond's bolt gun from Diamonds are Forever) used for any useful, practicable purpose whatsoever.
The Lovetron was specifically invented (?) for use on Scorched Earth. It saved about five rivets. And it was a COOL move. Just ask PTPP. He was the one who stuck the hook, got up there, and then saw that he'd stuck the WRONG edge; the one he was one was worthless, the one right next to it was Way Bomber.
The Lovetron was/is/will be a 12'/18' aluminum tent pole with a steering wire. You use 1/2" webbing with tied loops every few feet taped to the 'Tron so you can go up. It's like a big ol' aider taped to a stick. High wind not advised.
|
|
|
|
|
nikegirl
Mar 24, 2003, 7:02 AM
Post #17 of 70
(7238 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 2, 2001
Posts: 5662
|
wow...what am i doin in here???
and? I read the whole thread*
funny stuff*
|
|
|
|
|
passthepitonspete
Mar 24, 2003, 7:33 AM
Post #18 of 70
(7238 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2001
Posts: 2183
|
What are you doin' here? Well, you never know - Dr. Piton just might have room on his ledge for a shagadelic hottie. If one happened to have wandered there by accident.
"WRONG" edge you say, Tom - "worthless?!" Pshaw.
Dude, it might have been crumbling, but at least it held while I aided up the Lovetron. [I nearly shat myself when I saw what the hook was hanging on, however. Sheesh]
As for James Bond's bolt gun - you didn't see where it went? Sly Stallone used it in Cliffhanger.
|
|
|
|
|
duskerhu
Mar 24, 2003, 8:59 AM
Post #19 of 70
(7238 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 13, 2002
Posts: 1023
|
ummmm, I see no actual argument here... Just some good natured philosiphising.
I thought Mixed Climbing WAS a form of Aid Climbing???
duskerhu
|
|
|
|
|
mesomorf
Mar 24, 2003, 1:18 PM
Post #20 of 70
(7238 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 3, 2002
Posts: 397
|
PTPP,
Grossman told me himself that they used hooks taped to hammers on the FA of Jolly Roger. This stymied later, less creative ascentionists, who added bolts.
I wonder how you passed those sections?
|
|
|
|
|
bighigaz
Mar 24, 2003, 2:47 PM
Post #21 of 70
(7238 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 30, 2002
Posts: 696
|
In reply to: If that Batman faggot would actually come to the Valley, and work his magic, he'd be a stud. But, he sits in his Hollywood Sound Stage, surrounded by the Special Effectists, sipping Perrier water and waiting for the producers to say, "WE'VE GOT THE FUNDING FOR A SEQUEL!!!"
Apollo, who exactly are you refering to?
--And did you say PTPP was using a lovetron?! I thought he didn't do that, [hmph!]... idolizing climbers everywhere are starting to worry... :wink:
|
|
|
|
|
passthepitonspete
Mar 24, 2003, 5:22 PM
Post #22 of 70
(7238 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2001
Posts: 2183
|
Meso, you can click here to read about the raddest hook move I ever made, which precisely answers your question about how I climbed Jolly Roger.
It is a relief to know that I and Grossman are on the same page.
|
|
|
|
|
beyond_gravity
Mar 24, 2003, 5:51 PM
Post #23 of 70
(7238 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 2, 2002
Posts: 5078
|
In reply to: ummmm, I see no actual argument here... Just some good natured philosiphising. I thought Mixed Climbing WAS a form of Aid Climbing??? duskerhu
Call it whatever you want, no mixed climber is going to care if you call them an aid climber.
On the other hand, no mixed climber will ever call what there doing aid climbing. The biggest pump your ever going to get is on a mixed route.
Of course, i'm talking about mixed rock and ice.
Bolt and Gear routes are also refered to as mixed routes, as are free/aid routes. But when you talk about the sport of mixed climbing, it's on rock and ice.
|
|
|
|
|
flamer
Mar 24, 2003, 8:27 PM
Post #24 of 70
(7238 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 22, 2002
Posts: 2955
|
Ok I have a challenge to make! For all you people that think AID climbing is "cheating", I would like you to free(with the exsisting gear) a few aid lines. How about you start with a couple of the routes mentioned in this post?? Maybe...Jolly Roger? That would be an excellent WARMUP for your next project...Scorched Earth!
Main Point being...If you don't aid you (probably) don't get it! The over lying ethic is...Free it if you can!!
Also I don't think what he's doing is cheating. Cheating would be using a cheat stick to Bypass hard moves. The person pictured here is apparently just lacking in reach! I've been on routes where I was topstepped to the hilt and still 6"s shy of the next rivet or whatever! So sometimes you've just gotta do what you've gotta do!
josh
|
|
|
|
|
passthepitonspete
Mar 24, 2003, 11:43 PM
Post #25 of 70
(7238 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2001
Posts: 2183
|
This is one of my rare moments of seriousness. So I'll explain the joke to you, too.
He's definitely cheating. Even in aid climbing there are stylistic considerations.
The reason he is cheating is because he is clipping a pre-existing fixed anchor. He has extended his reach with the hammer. What you have to consider is, "what did the first ascensionist do?"
The cheating photo on page 1 is from Tempest, a PDH/DFU route put up by Steve Gerberding, and whose third ascent was made not too long ago by RC.com's own Bruce Bindner, who is brutusofwyde. For all I know this photo is from Bruce's ascent - I really don't know.
Gerberding is a very tall b*tchin' bad-*ss m*therf*cker, which is actually the sweetest and kindest words I could speak of him.
You can click this photo of Steve to learn more:
http://home.pacbell.net/takasper/shimwhite.gifhttp://www.rockclimbing.com/...mp.cgi?Detailed=8779
Steve is also an expert at top-stepping, and is notorious for drilling reachy rivet ladders on his routes like the one you see buddy cheating on.
When I climbed Reticent Wall, I had to cheat on one of Steve's rivet ladders, too, because I did not have the skill and the reach to make the clips. And I'm not the first to follow Steve who had to do it! [I was just smart enough not to let anyone take my picture {wink} ] Now that I'm using Russian Aiders, I look forward to a future ascent of Tempest, to where I can [hopefully!] make the clips without using a cheat stick!
Paradoxically however, sometimes using a cheat stick isn't actually cheating!
This is certainly the case during our recent ascent of Scorched Earth, where a long section of blank rock is bypassed by using a hook on top of a Lovetron. What made this particularly frightening was that I hooked the wrong edge! Imagine my terror when after aiding all the way up the sling-with-knotted-loops hanging from my Lovetron, I found the edge I hooked to be a crumbling piece of choss! [The pitch was already rated A4+, so one wonders how this mistake would affect the rating! Sheesh]
If you follow the link above to my ascent of Jolly Roger, you'll see where I pulled a similar stunt, using a hook on top of my hammer. I get sweaty hands thinking about it. If I had blown that hook move, I'd have been cleaved in half by the pinnacle which licked greedy lips beneath me. Now I verily assumed that I had cheated, but Meso above says that Grossman told him he did the same in a few places. But cheating or not, it was the raddest hook move I've ever made!
Now, never for a second would I sit here and publically [sic] admit that I have been known to cheat from time to time by using my hammer and duct tape as a cheat stick to clip a pre-existing fixed anchor like a bolt, rivet or head - times when I'm lazy or tired or scared. Neither would I suggest, imply, or otherwise [HINT] that a pair of wired stoppers girth-hitched together can make an excellent cheat stick. Never for a moment would I tell you that such things are absolutely true.
And I'd never bloody let anyone take my frickin' picture doin' it, either.
Sheesh.
|
|
|
|
|
tim
Mar 25, 2003, 12:00 AM
Post #26 of 70
(5686 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 4, 2002
Posts: 4861
|
dude, I think that's Valerio Folco. he's doing that whole Euro-dog hat-under-the-helmet thing. I *think* this picture is from him and Tom McMillan's ascent on that route.
I've got some issues with bitching about taping anything to a hammer, but, whatever. If you're clean and he's not, then right on. But otherwise... (I'm not the sort of person to say "otherwise STFU" so I'll let someone else)
A4+ DFU would not be sporting a rivet smack dab in the middle of a pitch, would it? Just curious. Maybe it would.
|
|
|
|
|
bigwalling
Mar 25, 2003, 3:03 AM
Post #27 of 70
(5686 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 29, 2001
Posts: 728
|
That is Valerio. He climbed it with Bruce and Tom. That pitch is rated A2+ or so. It's the pitch after the Killer Whale. I think the pictured pitch is called "Rain of Terror".
By the way, Valerio's web site has some video footage of the climb.
|
|
|
|
|
copperhead
Mar 25, 2003, 4:59 AM
Post #28 of 70
(5686 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 26, 2002
Posts: 668
|
The WANKER ALERT just went off.
Am I really reading this? Pete, where do you get your information? I sometimes wonder.
Tempest was first climbed in ’93 by Brad Jarrett, Jeff Hornibrook, and Cade Lloyd. I have photos of them on the FA. I don’t know how Gerberding came into the picture. Was it because you have a picture?
So why did you post this thread topic? Are you better than that? You have admitted to ‘cheating’ yourself. Please tell us. What’s your point?
...No, no, PTPP would never cheat but he might drill a rivet on lead on an existing route…
Like your pictures are examples of absolute perfection…
WANKER.
In reply to: [The pitch was already rated A4+, so one wonders how this mistake would affect the rating! Sheesh]
WOW!!! Does that mean that you climbed A5 or A5+? YOU ARE WAY RAD, DUDE!!!!!!!
Everyone who is not on a FA is cheating. Clipping fixed gear is cheating. Using a portaledge instead of a hammock is cheating. Every form of climbing except naked free-soloing is cheating. Live with it.
Valerio would whoop your ass any day. You name the game.
|
|
|
|
|
bigwalling
Mar 25, 2003, 6:34 AM
Post #29 of 70
(5686 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 29, 2001
Posts: 728
|
In reply to: dude, I think that's Valerio Folco. he's doing that whole Euro-dog hat-under-the-helmet thing.
Who says that is Euro? I do it.
|
|
|
|
|
copperhead
Mar 25, 2003, 6:39 AM
Post #30 of 70
(5686 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 26, 2002
Posts: 668
|
Ditto.
|
|
|
|
|
tim
Mar 25, 2003, 3:16 PM
Post #31 of 70
(5686 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 4, 2002
Posts: 4861
|
Yeah, but that doesn't make you Valerio Folco now does it? :twisted:
My apologies. Anyone who Tom McMillan would abstain from going off on for an entire wall, has got to be very good. I wonder if Pete would survive a wall with everyone's favorite loose cannon. (Also, I didn't know that Bruce was on that ascent.) I'd probably wet my pants on the Tempest.
|
|
|
|
|
passthepitonspete
Mar 25, 2003, 3:56 PM
Post #32 of 70
(5686 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2001
Posts: 2183
|
In reply to: So why did you post this thread topic? Are you better than that? You have admitted to ‘cheating’ yourself. Please tell us. What’s your point?
{Dr. Piton shakes his head in amazement} You know, Bryan, I really can't figure out your defensiveness. I am not sure if you have absolutely no sense of humour, or if you have your head so far up your ass today you cannot see the light of day. Did you wake up on the wrong side of bed this morning?
My point is that this thread is humour, and I write it specifically to provoke irate responses among those with no sense of "ha-ha". [You might choose to reread it now - most everyone else appears to "get" the joke]
"Wanker Alert" indeed.
Sheesh.
But evidently I too am a wanker. I thought Gerberding was on the first ascent because the hand-drawn topo I have says "Bad Ass Gerberding" on Pitch 11, and "rivet" is misspelled as "rivit" like Steve frequently does. I stand corrected.
In reply to: Every form of climbing except naked free-soloing is cheating. Live with it.
I do. [Heh] I love a good segue...
You'd better click here, Bryan - if you dare!
Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha!!!! [DDEL]
|
|
|
|
|
fishypete
Mar 25, 2003, 4:45 PM
Post #33 of 70
(5686 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 5, 2002
Posts: 200
|
Copperhead: Great info!
Pete: Great Troll!
It seems that the dripping sarcasm kinda slipped through unnoticed there...
So the only solution I see is to bestow the
WANKER DU JOUR
award on the both of you!
Methinks things are getting just a bit too fractious in here.... all these wanker alerts and.....how shall I put this delicately.... cranial explorations of one's nether regions....
Just remember the motto everyone, focus all those negative energies on the pig...
Carpe Swinem!!!
Now doesn't that feel better??
Cheers
Fishy
|
|
|
|
|
copperhead
Mar 25, 2003, 5:00 PM
Post #34 of 70
(5686 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 26, 2002
Posts: 668
|
Well Pete, I guess after reading so many of your posts I have a hard time deciphering between your spray-fests and so-called "humor."
Sorry but if that's supposed to be a joke, then it's pretty lame. Try again.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
bvb
Mar 25, 2003, 6:27 PM
Post #36 of 70
(5686 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 3, 2003
Posts: 954
|
***sigh***
deep feeling of contentment
{crack} sound of an old english stubby being opened...
here i am at work, but deep in my heart, i feel as though i'm at the deli. thank you, everyone, especially ptpp, for making my day.
and for those of you who don't get the joke...here, smoke this, and pay no attention to that aviation fuel odor, and yeah, the tip of the muggle IS supposed to light into flames every time you pull a hit.
god bless aid climbing, and god bless lousemite valley.
jesus wept. :twisted:
|
|
|
|
|
apollodorus
Mar 25, 2003, 7:16 PM
Post #37 of 70
(5686 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 18, 2002
Posts: 2157
|
At the lower left of this scrap cut from a recently made topo, the name "Gerberding" appears in apparent reference to his ascending prowess. I would have posted the entire topo, but the file is huge.
http://home.pacbell.net/...sper/tempesttopo.jpg
|
|
|
|
|
tim
Mar 25, 2003, 8:02 PM
Post #38 of 70
(5686 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 4, 2002
Posts: 4861
|
your topo is just a LEETLE BEET off, Tom...
http://www.valeriofolco.com/phpsite/static/images/tempesttopo-zv.jpg
IV 5.6 A2+ , I love it... ruthless
|
|
|
|
|
philbox
Moderator
Mar 25, 2003, 11:46 PM
Post #39 of 70
(5686 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2002
Posts: 13105
|
I`ve been following this thread pretty much from when it started. On the open ended troll scale I just consulted the graph paper and discovered that it was a 6.7.
I do think though that this topic has engendered some great discussion as well as being highly entertaining.
...Phil...
|
|
|
|
|
passthepitonspete
Mar 25, 2003, 11:51 PM
Post #40 of 70
(5686 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2001
Posts: 2183
|
Dude, before I was a climber, I am an angler.
You might be interested to know that the Fish of a Lifetime linked above was caught while trolling.
|
|
|
|
|
bvb
Mar 26, 2003, 12:52 AM
Post #41 of 70
(5686 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 3, 2003
Posts: 954
|
yeah pete, ya just never know when you're gonna luck out and reel in one of those well-fed, merced-bred VALLEY LUNKERS.......!
|
|
|
|
|
passthepitonspete
Mar 26, 2003, 1:02 AM
Post #42 of 70
(5686 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2001
Posts: 2183
|
Advice for would-be fish when swimming round posts of Dr. Piton:
"You can only get hooked if you open your mouth..."
Mwah-ah-ah. The Doc himself would be well-advised to take this under advisement.
|
|
|
|
|
apollodorus
Mar 26, 2003, 6:20 AM
Post #43 of 70
(5686 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 18, 2002
Posts: 2157
|
First of all, the Tempest topo isn't mine. Brutus of Wyde made it, and sent it to me.
Second, I intentionally left enough of it there to show A3/A4 pitches. The rating listed at the title is intended to lure the unsuspecting up there.
Or something.
|
|
|
|
|
apollodorus
Mar 26, 2003, 8:43 AM
Post #45 of 70
(5686 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 18, 2002
Posts: 2157
|
UMMMM. Dinner.
Just so the topo, and the Rain of Terror pitch, can be seen:
Original Tempest topo
Brutus' Tempest topo
I'll have you know that I'm not clogging the RC server with those fine, high resolution topos. I stole the server space from SBC (actually, they steal $49.99 a month from ME).
|
|
|
|
|
fishypete
Mar 26, 2003, 8:50 AM
Post #46 of 70
(5686 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 5, 2002
Posts: 200
|
That is one mean lookin' fish...
Sure to put up a good fight I reckon!
We can sure use some of them around here...
Fighting Fish Unite!
Cheers
Fishy.
|
|
|
|
|
apollodorus
Mar 26, 2003, 9:13 AM
Post #48 of 70
(5686 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 18, 2002
Posts: 2157
|
UMMMMMMMMMM! Dinner, AND a pretty good fight to get him into the smoker!
Here's what that big mouth looked like, right before I filled it up with Turkey Stuffing and shoved him into a surplus shipping container with a bunch of burning white oak. There is no such thing as "Too Big A BBQ".
http://home.pacbell.net/takasper/jaws.jpg
|
|
|
|
|
passthepitonspete
Mar 26, 2003, 3:50 PM
Post #49 of 70
(5686 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2001
Posts: 2183
|
Dr. Piton always practises "catch and release", especially when he unexpectedly catches a friend who he buys stuff from. Well, at least when it's that cute little copperhead fish on the page before.
If it were that mean bugger above, I think it would be smart to cut the line!
Now, I'm looking at the hand-drawn topo that precedes those above which were made by the third-ascent team, and I see that
' "BAD ASS" GERBERDING ' is actually written in a different hand than that which drew the topo. I just noticed that for the first time now.
On Pitch 15 the same hand has written 'TOM A2+'. Maybe Steve and "Tom" made the second ascent?
It's a photocopy of a fax from April 27 00 and it came from Sybase, Inc. with a 707 area code, in case anyone lurking out there sent it to me. Can't remember how I got it.
|
|
|
|
|
bvb
Mar 26, 2003, 4:53 PM
Post #50 of 70
(5686 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 3, 2003
Posts: 954
|
copperhead's shark looks an AWFUL lot like bill russel after a night of G&T's backed with OE800....twins, seperated at birth??
|
|
|
|
|
copperhead
Mar 26, 2003, 8:48 PM
Post #53 of 70
(5699 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 26, 2002
Posts: 668
|
In reply to: The third ascent of Jolly Roger was also made solo - by none other than Yosemite's own Brad Jarrett. I think but am not certain Brad was involved in the first ascent of Tempest on El Cap, but whether or not he was, I'm gonna stick in this link to this AMAZING photo of Tempest on El Cap. Why not, eh?
http://www.rockclimbing.com/ascent/index.php?AscentID=250
Pete, you were right in the first place.
3rd ascent of Tempest:
http://supertopo.com/rockclimbing/progallery.html?gid=2
|
|
|
|
|
apollodorus
Mar 26, 2003, 9:15 PM
Post #54 of 70
(5699 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 18, 2002
Posts: 2157
|
I tried to edit the link above to say it wasn't the original topo.
|
|
|
|
|
cantwinifyoudontplay2003
Mar 27, 2003, 9:11 AM
Post #55 of 70
(5699 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 24, 2003
Posts: 75
|
Something about "wanker" kind of tweaked me the wrong way........
copperhead please explain how a guy can climb El cap 23 times on 23 routes and be a wanker........?
and just to put it out there I use a cheat stick now and then.....so what of it? Hey I also clip fixxed gear......
Please don't tell the rock police .........
|
|
|
|
|
flamer
Mar 27, 2003, 11:41 PM
Post #56 of 70
(5699 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 22, 2002
Posts: 2955
|
cantwin,
If you can't figure it out, then I'm worried about you.
josh
|
|
|
|
|
copperhead
Mar 28, 2003, 12:25 AM
Post #57 of 70
(5699 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 26, 2002
Posts: 668
|
Thanks Josh.
Cheater sticks are still cheater sticks; you ain't climin' the route if you use one. It's up to you.
|
|
|
|
|
socalclimber
Mar 28, 2003, 3:20 AM
Post #58 of 70
(5699 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 27, 2001
Posts: 2437
|
In reply to: Something about "wanker" kind of tweaked me the wrong way........
Maybe you're missing the point. I can put this into perspective for you: "See PTPP. See PTPP spray. PTPP likes to spray! PTPP wants a sponsorship from RainBird."
In reply to: cantwin, If you can't figure it out, then I'm worried about you. josh
This is just priceless. Match, game, point.
|
|
|
|
|
passthepitonspete
Mar 28, 2003, 4:31 AM
Post #59 of 70
(5699 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2001
Posts: 2183
|
PTPP IS sponsored. And it's even a liquid sponsor.
Photos forthcoming shortly.
|
|
|
|
|
copperhead
Mar 28, 2003, 5:52 AM
Post #60 of 70
(5699 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 26, 2002
Posts: 668
|
Let me guess.
Pepto-Bismol.
|
|
|
|
|
apollodorus
Mar 28, 2003, 6:08 AM
Post #61 of 70
(5699 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 18, 2002
Posts: 2157
|
Sponsored by Dr. Piton brand beer. I saw the photo.
|
|
|
|
|
passthepitonspete
Mar 28, 2003, 6:15 AM
Post #62 of 70
(5699 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2001
Posts: 2183
|
Correct beverage, Tommy.
But wrong manufacturer.
Guess again.
|
|
|
|
|
brutusofwyde
Apr 1, 2003, 6:21 PM
Post #63 of 70
(5699 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 3, 2002
Posts: 1473
|
Yes, That's Valerio, Yes, that's our ascent.
Yes, the reaches can be made without the hammer-cheater thing with Russian Aiders, if you are at least 5'7" tall with a +4 ape index: With Russian Aiders I was making the reaches between the furthest rivets, but was hooking the cuff directly into the rivet hangers to do so.
My worst fear is that Gerberding starts using Russian Aiders. Then I'll definitely need a LONG stick for his ladders.
Brutus
|
|
|
|
|
passthepitonspete
Apr 1, 2003, 6:24 PM
Post #64 of 70
(5699 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2001
Posts: 2183
|
Oh dude, I have been dreaming that same nightmare!
Gerberding in Russian Aiders!
AAAAAAAHHHHHHHH!!!!!
Bruce, have you written up your Tempest ascent for here? If not, get writing! Send us the link.
[You got back your Russkies that ya loaned me in the mail OK, right? Many thanks. They changed my life! I like, owe you some beer, eh?]
|
|
|
|
|
brutusofwyde
Apr 1, 2003, 6:54 PM
Post #65 of 70
(5699 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 3, 2002
Posts: 1473
|
Hey Pete --
Yes, got back the Russian Aiders, Thanks!
And the Tempest T.R. is posted now, but warning: I tend to focus on things other than route beta, daily reporting or other prosaic details when I write T.R.s.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=28836
Brutus
|
|
|
|
|
passthepitonspete
Apr 1, 2003, 6:58 PM
Post #66 of 70
(5699 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2001
Posts: 2183
|
Glad you got 'em, mate!
So like, how 'bout a link to your TR, eh? [HINT]
|
|
|
|
|
copperhead
Apr 2, 2003, 5:40 AM
Post #67 of 70
(5699 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 26, 2002
Posts: 668
|
What if Gerberding drilled a ladder on a slab and was able to stand in his hero loops without using Raiders? Then what would you do, Pete?
|
|
|
|
|
passthepitonspete
Apr 2, 2003, 5:44 AM
Post #68 of 70
(5699 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2001
Posts: 2183
|
What a ridiculous question!
Why, I'd cheat, of course.
Duh.
I'd just hafta bloody hope there wasn't someone standing nearby with a camera....
|
|
|
|
|
copperhead
Apr 2, 2003, 5:49 AM
Post #69 of 70
(5699 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 26, 2002
Posts: 668
|
I thought so.
Wouldn't want the camera to tarnish your rep, would ya?
|
|
|
|
|
cantwinifyoudontplay2003
Apr 2, 2003, 9:38 AM
Post #70 of 70
(5699 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 24, 2003
Posts: 75
|
I would cheat too .........NO COP NO STOP F THE RRROCK POLICE !
|
|
|
|
|
|
