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timpanogos
Apr 22, 2003, 2:58 PM
Post #26 of 27
(2760 views)
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Registered: May 17, 2002
Posts: 935
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Andrew,
It was Pringles - a route that the guide book says is typically top roped (can not image anyone free climbing and placing gear on this route as it is a perpendicular layback, all the way - and so was not a typical Indian Creek crack climb) There were not many people there as it was a Friday with cold - snow and rain. I asked around and no one there seemed to have a problem with it. A group of climbers did climb the 10b right next to it, which shares the same anchor while I was climbing. Several groups came by and asked if I was practicing for something (which I was, the Valley in 3 weeks) and commented on how they had done the same thing. Anybody that did stop and look, I volunteer to bail and give them the route – but like I say – a 5.12 small finger crack – perpendicular layback climb – no one was interested with all the excellent cracks everywhere around it.
As far as bounce testing - it seems that sandstone would demand bounce testing - even more than other - especially on a small nut? I could see that the Entrada I climbed on in Arches would not want to be bounce tested very aggressively, and of course the Cutler of fisher towers is even worse - but the Windgate of Indian Creek took the bounce test on a small nut just fine. I also bounce tested on Prodigal Sun (Navajo - 1 grade softer than Windgate but hard stuff compared to Entrada and Cutler). I took a fall on a #3 HB bronze on Prodigal that I only daisy bounced and then jumped on and it poped - seems I should have more aggressively bounce tested that one, as I took a static daisy fall on the cam below it.
I suppose this was a stonker c1 - the very thin portions that I’m speaking of here might have rated c2 - I don't know much about this - I do know that the amount of back cleaning I had done definitely called for a piece of known quality at this point in the climb (15’ over a small cam below me). I was real tempted to Zip up some big gear and cheat in the 10b crack – but bozo or not, I climbed the thing – and felt good about it – 5th time aiding, 3rd pitch actually climbed.
P.S.
Besides, the big problem was - my tower partner did not show up! When do you get back?
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atg200
Apr 23, 2003, 6:56 AM
Post #27 of 27
(2760 views)
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Registered: Jul 27, 2001
Posts: 4317
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timpanogos - i definitely bounce test on sandstone, its the only way to stay alive. i just do not do so on free climbs in the desert. bouncing on sandstone does wear on the crack, and a nut especially in wingate can blow leaving a really nasty scar. if you don't think the sandstone wears, climb incredible handcrack and look at an old gear list for it - its widening and the wear along the wall is really visible.
people may not have a problem with what you did, but people also tramp all over the cryptobiotic soil too. doesn't mean its the right thing to do. tread lightly in the desert! and remember bounce testing is rarely necessary on C2 or below - it just slows you down.
i have no idea when i will be back for any length of time. my life is way hectic right now. still have lots of work to do in south africa.
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