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jt512
May 23, 2003, 5:43 PM
Post #26 of 35
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In reply to: Common Jay, you lead 5.12 on bolts, right? I'd like to see you come on over to Suicide and try your hand.
What does this have to do with what I wrote?
In reply to: I'm sure the Suicide 12 climbers could do pretty decent on .12 at Williamson...
If so, then only because they've done their share of 5.12 sport climbing. I don't know how common it is to become competent at 5.12 trad by climbing only trad (I suspect not very common), but I would guess that anyone in that position would find 5.12 sport climbing a struggle because I don't think that the technique would cross over well.
-Jay
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pbjosh
May 23, 2003, 5:52 PM
Post #27 of 35
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In reply to: In reply to: Common Jay, you lead 5.12 on bolts, right? I'd like to see you come on over to Suicide and try your hand. What does this have to do with what I wrote?
Just poking fun, no need to get into rec.climbing mode ;) Here is a perhaps more salient comment:
Big Rock sucks the dogs balls. Williamson is definitely (for me) a more enjoyable place to climb. However I definitely prefer Suicide to Williamson.
With respect to the grade 5.12 at either place, you will find 100 people who can climb 12 at Williamson for every one who can climb 12 at Suicide, and the few who climb 12 at Suicide, I would suspect, can probably climb it anywhere. Most of the hardest lines at Suicide are desperately thin off vertical stuff (Ishi, Hades, Pirate, Rock Hudson I think it's called, the 12c tips crack way around right), with the notable exception of the 4-5" roof crack of Paisano Overhang. 12 at Suicide is burly, no doubt.
josh
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murf
May 23, 2003, 6:06 PM
Post #28 of 35
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You guys are arguing about gluing at Williamson on one thread, and comparing 5.12's at Suicide and Williamson on this one. I'm going to start a "Sport Climbing at Jtree " thread and a "Chipping at New Jack" thread to see if you guys will take it over the edge and gun it out at "High Noon". Not as good as a cat fight, but we'll take what we can get.
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phylp
May 24, 2003, 12:45 AM
Post #29 of 35
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:D
Wow! i cannot believe the trouble I started with my innocent little questions!
You are all so sweet to care so much about the quality of my climbing experience! (Or maybe you just like to argue with each other :wink: ?)
Turns out I will not be heading down that way in June after all this trouble! Plans have materialized for 3 trips (the Valley, the East Side, and Donner Summit). And that takes me into July.
But thanks for reminding me about Tacquitz & Suicide. Desperately thin off vertical is my forte! Have never been there and it sounds great.
But I will still get to Williamson sometime this year. The journey is as important as the destination. And I want to climb with my virtual friend Jay and some of the other So Cal crowd.
Happy Trails til we meet...
Phyllis
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moabbeth
May 24, 2003, 3:15 AM
Post #30 of 35
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Good one murf :lol: . But it's too hot this time of year for Josh and New Jack so those arguments will have to be saved for October when those areas aren't hot as ovens. For the next three months it's gonna be all Tahquitz/Suicide vs. Williamson since the mountains are cooler (temp) place to climb.
As for Williamson phyl - beware of the gumbies. Not the newbies, but the gumbies. Williamson is overrun with them starting this time of year. If you're a pretty experienced sport climber you can pay for your trip by coming to the rescue of gumbies at Williamson. You'll know it when you see it - the spraylord who comes there with all shiny new draws after spending a year inside Rockcreation West LA and is SO SURE they can immediately lead a 5.11 outside cause they can in the gym. They'll get 2 clips up at the most and have to bail the route. You can offer them $5 a draw cleaning to go up the route and clean their gear along the way. On a good weekend afternoon you could make some serious $$ doing that :lol: :lol: :lol:
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pranaguy
May 24, 2003, 3:30 AM
Post #32 of 35
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Registered: May 26, 2002
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No kidding. I remember the now- classic story of the guys with shiny new draws falling off of Valdez until rrrAdam was kind enough to put up the first one, and then the first guy up got past it and decked onto his head. Ahh, the great outdoors...
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jt512
May 24, 2003, 3:42 AM
Post #33 of 35
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In reply to: No kidding. I remember the now- classic story of the guys with shiny new draws falling off of Valdez until rrrAdam was kind enough to put up the first one, and then the first guy up got past it and decked onto his head. Ahh, the great outdoors...
Hehe. Actually, the guy stick clipped the first draw. Only, (1) he forgot to clip his rope in first, and (2) he tied the bolt end biner open with a piece of string. So, he ends up with his draw on the first bolt, clipped to the bolt with an open-gate biner, and unable to boulder up and clip the rope in or close the biner. So, Adam boulders up, clips the rope in, and unties the string that was holding the gate open. The first guy gives up on the route, and the second guy ties in to the now correctly pre-clipped rope, climbs to the second bolt, literally does a back dive off the route, lands right on his head, and just gets up like he does it all the time.
At this point, the crew determine that they are not up to leading the route, so they send a third guy up to set up a top rope. The guy makes the 30-minute or so hike up the slabs, and eventually gets the TR set up. Unfortunately, it is now dark, and they have no time left to climb, so the guy just raps off and they leave.
-Jay
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moabbeth
May 24, 2003, 5:35 AM
Post #34 of 35
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Registered: Oct 22, 2002
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Right on Jay. We should start a new thread on gumby mishaps at Williamson...there are so many. I've only climbed up there about 10-12 times but every single time I saw someone get injured or nearly escape a serious injury by pure luck.
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climbsomething
May 24, 2003, 5:42 AM
Post #35 of 35
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In reply to: Right on Jay. We should start a new thread on gumby mishaps at Williamson...there are so many. I've only climbed up there about 10-12 times but every single time I saw someone get injured or nearly escape a serious injury by pure luck. |
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