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stevo
Jul 9, 2003, 7:25 PM
Post #26 of 31
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Bumpkin has it right, in the way the original poster was asking IMO.
I use this technique extensively here in the canadian rockies. I imagine you can use it on ridge climbs all over, its proved usefull in the bugaboos, selkirks and purcells.
You use certain features like rocks, gendarmes, horns and sometimes the ridge proper as protection pieces. The idea is that both of you are on either side of the natural protection feature, if one was to fall then the other is protected in a way one would be while simulclimbing. It completely allows you to move fast and efficient. You use a hip belay for a belay. For all you book types, I believe it is defined in "Freedom of the hills". Its used on easy fifth class terrain, faster than placing gear.
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Deleted
Jul 9, 2003, 10:02 PM
Post #27 of 31
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as someone who uses the technique with clients on a regular basis, i can tell you that (at least in the mountaineering realm) "short-roping" means that the guide ties the client on a short section of rope -- 5- to 10-feet, depending on terrain -- to assist the client over ground that might not neccessarily be all that technical, but which is beyond the client's perception of what they can do. for this reason it has also been referred to as "confidence roping".
this is not to be confused with "short-fixing", which means you've climbed up, set an anchor, and continued leading beyond it with a self-belay, leaving your second to jug the line below the anchor and clean the pitch to that point.
additionally ...
4th class climbing is climbing over terrain that requires the use of hands and feet, where a fall would prove injurious, but where a rope and pro -- depending on your ability -- aren't strictly required. most folks, it might be pointed out, opt to rope up on 4th class terrain. where YOU draw the line on roping up is strictly subjective. if i opt to climb up a 5.7 without a rope (or WITH a rope, but i end up not placing pro), it could correctly be said that i've 4th-classed it. it could also be said i've just soloed that pitch. it could further be said that what bachar, croft and other soloists are doing is 4th-classing really hard climbs.
if i 4th class something with my second following at the end of the rope -- and we have NO pro between us --- then we are simul-soloing.
if i place a piece, or several pieces of pro, then we are simul-climbing.
if i am climbing while being belayed and also placing gear, then i am lead climbing.
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stevo
Jul 10, 2003, 5:00 PM
Post #28 of 31
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short roping - really means climbing with a rope thats short
confindence roping- bringing someone where they shouldn't be
4th class - the class between 3rd and 5th obviously
solo - a climbing party of fewer than two people, hence your solo
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papounet
Jul 14, 2003, 3:56 PM
Post #29 of 31
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"confindence roping- bringing someone where they shouldn't be "
I object to that.
In the Alps, when climbing easy stuff (PD/D), especially on "snow" routes, the leader keeps the second on short rope, with some tension. the idea is:
the leader will sense the imbalance if the second is beginning to fall. by imediately arresting the fall, the leader is not subject to a large shockload, so can keep his stance.
Often on the rocky summit, you'll keep the crampons and have just enough ropes between the two to use the natural features of the rock (gendarmes, spires, big blocs ...) to hold the rope, sort of pro with no pro.
When the going gets tough, hip belay, if tougher, then proper belay
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tradmanclimbs
Jul 14, 2003, 4:43 PM
Post #30 of 31
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I most often think of free soloing as 3rd classing rather than 4th classing. The free solo means you are (Hopefully) so solid on the pitch that you are hikeing up it without the rope, hence third classing. I realize that this is not a techniqely correct definition but it is common slang.
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mike_gibson
Jul 14, 2003, 4:44 PM
Post #31 of 31
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Registered: Jun 6, 2002
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Bumpkin,
Many thanks for the input. I think that finally asnwers the question
Mike
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