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dirtineye
Jul 30, 2003, 10:29 PM
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b_frost, yer a genius!
Can one dyno these routes, or should they be done static?
If an old route is re-paved, does it become FA material again?
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xanx
Jul 30, 2003, 10:40 PM
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a friend of mine is a sick dyno master - he sticks moves that must be at least 1.14b or so... but more like boulder problems... sick one move dynos from a standing start - like 8 feet!!!
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watersprite
Jul 30, 2003, 10:48 PM
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In reply to: Gets my vote for 'funniest post of the week' Mike Coles 'bluelip'
May we have the bowling trophy please!
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b_fost
Jul 30, 2003, 10:50 PM
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In reply to: b_frost, yer a genius!
why, thank you.
In reply to: Can one dyno these routes, or should they be done static?
I would be careful about using dynamic class 1 moves, especially near sketchy landings (road, curbs, etc.)
However, if one does pull a dynamic move near a sketchy section of the pitch, then the route would be considered R, or possibly X (if a car was nearby)
In reply to: If an old route is re-paved, does it become FA material again?
absolutely.
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watersprite
Jul 30, 2003, 10:51 PM
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In reply to: Do I get to add a few grades if I take it at a run in 6" stiletto knee-high black PVC laceups?
you make your own danger...
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cthcrockclimber
Jul 30, 2003, 10:53 PM
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Those damn pequot tribe people wont let me use their side walk at the mohegan sun casino in CT!
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robmcc
Jul 30, 2003, 10:58 PM
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In reply to: It was a dubious accomplishment to say the least, but as I scored the FA long ago on an X-girlfriend of mine...
I have to quit climbing. I read that and I got that shivery "woooo..." kinda feeling. Woah. Death Girlfriend. One slip and she'll kill ya.
On second thought, better not. At least I have an excuse now.
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missedyno
Jul 31, 2003, 12:27 AM
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my approach to work is a 1.3R (heavy traffic - difficult to protect)
my journey home is a 2.1X (uphill the whole way, difficult to protect, if i fall i die - more traffic)
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lifeguard4
Jul 31, 2003, 12:29 AM
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In reply to: I would be careful about using dynamic class 1 moves, especially near sketchy landings (road, curbs, etc.) However, if one does pull a dynamic move near a sketchy section of the pitch, then the route would be considered R, or possibly X (if a car was nearby) absolutely.
I think this kind of stuff falls into a category that I like to call freestyle walking. It's one of the greatest sports emerging. You can get some great practice at it while you are canyoneering.
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wildtrail
Jul 31, 2003, 9:55 AM
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In reply to: you know how there are 6 classes of climbing? 1-flat sidewalk 2-hiking trails 3-scramble 4 free- nontechnical 5 free-technical 6 aid or something like that? well, you know how there is a 5.15? could there be a 1.15? like, a sketchy sidewalk, with a bad landing? I was just wondering. Now, I'm going to go push the boundaries of sidewalk walking, with my FA of Flat, Featureless Pavement, a 3 pitch, very sketchy .15d. A 1.15d, that is.
I don't think that's how it goes. It's pretty much 1st class = flat; then 2nd, 3rd and 4th are hills and scrambles and anything above that is 5th class (or vertical). I do believe.
And to answer your question, yes. There is a 1.15. Think of two squares of sidewalk with one being unlevel and sticking up a good inch beyond the other. You walk by, under the influence of a 12-beer night, and you trip on this raised piece sending you flying into a "bad landing" such as dog poop on the lawn. There. There's your 1.15. :wink:
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teddy
Jul 31, 2003, 10:54 AM
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I have a pretty hard trad route from my house, itd have to be at least a 1.10b. it starts on some sketchy dirt for a good 20 metres, second pitch goes uphill on some asphalt that youve gotta tape for or risk some serious knee grazage, shoe goo is recommended. Then its another 4 pitches for a 250m slab to finish.
Deffinitely a 1.10b but then again im an aussie so im probably wrong :P we don't use none of these screwy multi grades 8)
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vertical_reality
Jul 31, 2003, 2:06 PM
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I'm getting ready to start a new project. It's a multi-pitch route with the last pitch being the crux. It's the handicap ramp that leads to my building and must go at least 1.15c, it's wayyyyyy past horizontal! Anyways, does anyone know where I can get one of those haul bags with the wheels and handle? Everyone I see has one and looks more efficient then my backpack.
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papounet
Jul 31, 2003, 2:54 PM
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Registered: May 28, 2003
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Some uber-morons have retro-paved my favorite patch of 1.9 C (Cobblestone).
Before, it was for the true trad walker with ankle high stiff boots to be approach with care and deliberation.
Now a sports weenie in tights can run it.
They have even added a handrail next to a perfectly protectable wall.
You used to have to use a hand on the wall to negociate the tough passages
I've got to get a cutter and remove the bolts holding the handrail.
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bishop
Jul 22, 2004, 9:36 PM
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Registered: Jun 27, 2001
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In reply to: But seriously, my grandpa's pretty hardcore, he has a walker and aids around 1.14...
In reply to: Actually I believe proper procedure to claim a FA on a 1st class route is to actually write your name or initials or clever name like "Cubs rule!" into the route itself upon formation. Apparently one guy named Parks Commission claimed most of the FAs in my neighborhood.
LMFAO
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calfcramp
Jul 23, 2004, 5:11 PM
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Registered: Apr 10, 2003
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Downclimbing is a good workout. I like to do a few laps of 1.5-6. You just really have to watch your foot placement.
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coylec
Jul 23, 2004, 7:27 PM
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Registered: Jul 12, 2003
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Took an FA of a 1.14c X last night, 75 blocks, i mean pitchs. The best pitch on 3rd ... 1.11 XXX, you round this corner (crux) and there's a half-dozen hookers and a porn shop. You take a whipper there and you're gonna be hurtin'.
coylec
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fredrogers
Jul 23, 2004, 7:37 PM
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Registered: Aug 20, 2003
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In reply to: Finally the pioneering efforts of the ill fated yet historic expedition to climb the North face of Uxbridge Road might get some recognition on this site.
From Monty Python:
Climbing the North Face of the Uxbridge Road
As featured in the Flying Circus TV Show - Episode 33
The cast:
VOICE OVER
Michael Palin
CHRIS
Eric Idle
INTERVIEWER
John Cleese
BERT
Graham Chapman
VIKING
Michael Palin
The sketch:
(Cut to mountain climbers, with all the accoutrements: ropes, carabino's helmets, pitons, hammers, etc. They are roped together, apparently climbing a mountain.)
Voice Over: Climbing. The world's loneliest sport, where hardship and philosophy go hand in glove. And here, another British expedition, attempting to be the first man to successfully climb the north face of the Uxbridge Road. (Pull out to reveal that they are dimbing along a wide pavement; a shopper pushing a pram comes into shot) This four-man rope has been climbing tremendously. BBC cameras were there to film every inch.
(Cut to a BBC cameraman clinging to a lamppost, fiilming. He is wearing climbing gear too. Cut to papier mache model of the Uxbridge Road, with the route all neatly marked out in white, and various little pins for the camps.)
Chris: (voice over) The major assault on the Uxbridge Road has been going on for about three weeks, really ever since they established base camp here at the junction of Willesden Road, and from there they climbed steadily to establish camp two, outside Lewis's, and it's taken them another three days to establish camp three, here outside the post office. (cut to a pup tent being firmly planted on the side of a largepost-box; it has a little union jack on it.) Well they've spent a good night in there last night in preparation for the final assault today. The leader of the expedition is twenty-nine-year-old Bert Tagg - a local headmaster and mother of three:
(Cut to Bert crawling along the pavement. The interviewer is crouching down beside him.)
Interviewer: Bert. How's it going?
Bert: Well, it's a bit gripping is this, Chris. (heavy breathing interspersed)) I've got to try and reach that bus stop in an hour or so and I'm doing it by... (rearranging rope) damn ... I'm doing it, er, by laying back on this gutter so I'm kind of guttering and laying back at the same time, and philosophizing.
Interviewer: Bert, some people say this is crazy.
Bert: Aye, well but they said Crippen was crazy didn't they?
Interviewer: Crippen was crazy.
Bert: Oh, well there you are then. (shouts) John, l'm sending you down this carabine on white, (there is a white rope between Bert and John)
(Quick cut to Viking.)
Viking: Lemon curry?
(Cut back to the street.)
Bert: Now you see he's putting a peg down there because I'm quite a way up now, and if I come unstuck here I go down quite a long way.
Interviewer: (leaving him) Such quiet courage is typical of the way these brave chaps shrug off danger. Like it or not, you've got to admire the skill that goes into it.
(By the miracle of stop action, they all fall off the road, back down the pavement. Passers-by, also in stop action, walk by normally, ignoring the fall.)
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une
Feb 22, 2005, 10:21 PM
Post #69 of 70
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Registered: Feb 12, 2004
Posts: 55
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:lol:
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subtle
Feb 22, 2005, 10:33 PM
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In reply to: what about icy walks? We have a 1.4 or so that goes at around 1.14a/b in winter, depending on the ice and snow. In that ice storm a few years back (before the blizzard of '96 i think) it must have been about 1.14c!! or would these get ice grades??
Yes, I'd imagine you're looking at a solid 1.M11 or 1.M12, depending on wether on not you used heel spurs. I myself have been projecting a rad 1.M14 stretch of Route 95, but then Will Gadd drove by in a huge orange DOT plow and sand/salted the thing back to 1.M7+...my sponsors are going to be pissed.
Allez. Homard.
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