|
glockaroo
Aug 13, 2003, 2:28 AM
Post #26 of 29
(2607 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 28, 2001
Posts: 149
|
Melissa, Josh, & Matt:
Good point on hauling the cleaned gear. But I gave that up a while back. I usually didn't have room for it in the bag, so I clipped it underneath. It only took 1 time for a stopper to get wedged upside down in a crack & jam up the haul. It probably required some weird alignment of the stars for that clusterf**k to happen, but since I was involved, precise star alignment was likely not needed.
It's kind of like stacking your ropes in buckets: a lot of people don't bother until the wind snarls their lines one day, then they're religious about stacking.
I suppose this issue is like the issue of rebelaying the lead line: sometimes its good, sometimes not. Use the best method for the particular task at hand.
|
|
|
|
|
passthepitonspete
Aug 13, 2003, 3:07 AM
Post #27 of 29
(2607 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2001
Posts: 2183
|
Ha! Reminds me of my days as a BWT, when I was practising to solo. I didn't have a haul line bag - I didn't "need" one. I just stacked the haul line on top of the pig. How hard was that? It always worked, at least when I was practising.
When I got to Yosemite and began soloing the first few pitches of Iron Hawk, Chongo looked at my haul line and said, "don't you need a rope bag, Pete?"
"Nah," says I, confident BWT that I was, "I've tried it lots of times, and it's worked fine. I just flake it."
"Wow," says Chongo, "flaking is an extremely difficult skill to master. You have to stack the rope in ever-decreasing lengths."
"Well," says I, "I must be good then, eh?"
You know what happened when I got climbing in the Real World. Needless to say, one of my large Fish bags was re-designated as Haul Line Bag!
The same is true of gear clipped on the outside of your haul bag. It works great "in theory"......
Good grief - when I finish cleaning a hard aid pitch, I can hardly move for the weight of all the gear I've cleaned! I can't imagine jugging a whole pitch with all that junk.
Hell, I can barely imagine a pitch that I *could* clean on rappel! Then again, my experience is somewhat limited.
{shrug}
|
|
|
|
|
lambone
Aug 13, 2003, 3:52 AM
Post #28 of 29
(2607 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 1, 2003
Posts: 1399
|
In reply to: It only took 1 time for a stopper to get wedged upside down in a crack & jam up the haul. It probably required some weird alignment of the stars for that clusterf**k to happen, but since I was involved, precise star alignment was likely not needed.
Yup, that pretty much sucks a big one! I stick my extras in a bucket type stuff sack and just sort of clip it/shove it/tuck it under the haul straps on top. Seems to work ok....
When I rap the haul line (If it is possible) I keep my dasies clipped into the lead line. They just sort of run down free and I clip them past gear as I go, or take the gear out. I figure if my rap set-up fails for some godforsaken reason, I would at least be clipped into something that was fixed to the anchors.
:oops: :lol:
Rapping the hauline is the scariest part of soloing for me. Especialy when it's steep. :shock:
|
|
|
|
|
freeclmr
Aug 13, 2003, 6:59 AM
Post #29 of 29
(2607 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 9, 2002
Posts: 36
|
When to clean depends on the circumstance. If the pitch is straight up and 90 degrees or less I commonly rap/clean the lead line. The "extra" gear that is carried doing it this way is a non-issue for me due to the fact that it will be brought up the wall one way or the other through haul, jugg, etc. But then, by rapping the haul line and accending the lead line and cleaning, you are allowed to take that momentary rest as you are pulling gear........It's all 6 of one an' a half dozen of another to me as a soloist.
A device that I nearly always use for my rappels is the Pezel Stop. I love this device and swear by it. I suppose that the GriGri can essentially do the same thing, but I'm still not sold on it enough or ever found the need for it to actually want to go out and buy one.
Lambone.......I agree. Rapping,(especially free lines), is when I repeat my montra "ropes don't break........ropes don't break......."
Brian
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
