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timstich
Sep 3, 2003, 2:36 AM
Post #26 of 28
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Registered: Feb 3, 2003
Posts: 6267
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In reply to: Petro's got the answer here. I own a frickin' climbing gear company, and my rack is still a Heinz 57 mish-mash of gear. Things come and go but the gear that works best for me is the stuff I'm used to. Plain and simple. Malcolm
So are RPs and smallish gear really what the Eldo rack is going to have? Got some friends coming into Denver next month and have never climbed there yet myself. Still need to buy some cams for the rack in the midrange. Will check out the larger Big Bros when I have the spare cash. Kinda want one mega wide piece for offwidths from hell.
-Stich
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climbhigher
Sep 3, 2003, 4:58 AM
Post #27 of 28
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Registered: Dec 6, 2002
Posts: 224
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For Most of the Classic moderate routes in Eldo, you really don't need Rp's. If you are solid for the grade, you could get away with just a set of nuts and Hex's 9 thru 12. on all the classic moderate routes (5.6 to 5.8) in Eldo. But get on the harder routes 5.10 and up and the more serious 5.9s routes and you better bring your RP's . And beaware of the 5.9+ rating emphises on the +, it's sure to be a sandbag. Try Metamorphesis on the wind tower and bring a number 4 or 5 RP for pro! Two Sets of TCU's are good too for Eldo. CHEERS.
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maohaihuang
Sep 3, 2003, 10:16 AM
Post #28 of 28
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Registered: Sep 12, 2002
Posts: 52
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small hexes (I mean #3-#5) are useful on rocks with irregular
cracks (often found on limestone or dolomites). So are tricams
and BD Camalots. Nuts in these cracks tend to set badly,
because thier shape and the steel cable.
#1 and #2 Hexes are basically useless. I'd avoid wired hexes.
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