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bsmoot
Oct 7, 2003, 4:02 AM
Post #26 of 30
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Registered: Oct 30, 2002
Posts: 113
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Hey Dude. Moon Patrol requires some nailing and has a great looking bivy ledge on the top of pitch 7. Except for Ron Olevski, I don't know anyone who has done Moon Patrol, and he hasn't touted the route. But don't let that stop you. Sometimes the funnest climbs are those that involve the unknown! Go for it.
As for Lucifer's Ladder, this route starts just left of the Dunn route (BTW, this route is not inbetween Empty Pages and Prodigal Son) and follows discontinuous thin cracks all the way to the top. The first ascent party were very good climbers who said the climbing was difficult. Scoping this radical route reveals varried crack systems connected by very few bolts. I think at least 14 routes now exist on the northeast face of Angel's Landing.
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the_dude
Oct 11, 2003, 5:46 AM
Post #27 of 30
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Registered: Jul 30, 2003
Posts: 221
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Hey bsmoot, Thanks for the info! Having little beta on Moon patrol makes it seem appealing. It could be a good adventure. Also, I had no idea there were that many lines on Angel's landing.
Cheers,
The Dude
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bsmoot
Nov 18, 2003, 3:15 AM
Post #28 of 30
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Registered: Oct 30, 2002
Posts: 113
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Hey Guys,
For those who are interested, I just got reacquainted with The Cosmic Egg last week. I can now answer the question that comes up a lot: Can the offwidth on pitch 6 be aided easily? Yes, all that is needed is a #4.5 camalot & you can step high in your aiders & move right into the chimney. This makes the mandatory free only about 5.8.
I enjoyed the last half of the climb even more than the first half. We only placed a hand full of pins. If you have no pride, a cheater stick will help! What an amazing, natural crack line.
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moabbeth
Nov 18, 2003, 4:01 AM
Post #29 of 30
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Registered: Oct 22, 2002
Posts: 1786
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You didn't mention Touchstone on the trade routes you did.
The Organ/Organasm for a day of fun? Three pitches, could be fun for ya. It's all clean aid.
Or go up and try Masterblaster, that roof looks like a blast. My partner and I almost got on it last month but didn't bring enough big cams (don't listen to the guidebook, you'll need at least a couple #4's and likely a #5 or two). It's a clean 2 pitch aid route, unless you can free 5.13+ hehe!! And once you knock that one out in the morning go over to Ashtar's Cmd Tower nearby and do some of the free stuff on that (there's at least one 5.8).
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wallwombat
Nov 18, 2003, 4:46 AM
Post #30 of 30
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Registered: Jun 17, 2003
Posts: 727
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In reply to: be cool. go do moonlight free. i mean, it's only 12d.
Imposter! An aid climber would never say '' it's only 12d''
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