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beerandblood
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Jul 20, 2001, 4:07 AM
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import_temporary
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edgar50
Jul 20, 2001, 5:29 AM
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I taped my fingers only when I get cut, otherwise I left my fingers suffer for a while.
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wandt
Jul 20, 2001, 9:04 AM
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Depends on the crack and how long I'll have to hang on one hand for. Leading an offwidth fist crack, hell yeah! Tape it, baby! Climbing "Hot Cherry Bendover" in Squamish (sustained slightly overhanging 5.11 hard finger crack that seems to be filled with broken glass)? You better believe I'll be taping!!
Otherwise probably not.
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kagunkie
Jul 22, 2001, 2:40 AM
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After damaging a ligament in my right middle finger (it popped so loud they heard it thirty feet away) I started taping that finger. It didnt take long to realize that taping increased the strength of the finger, and started taping my three strongest fingers on both hands when climbing mostly hard face routes and cracks. Id say it increased finger strength by at least ten or twenty percent as far as being able to lock off and bumped me up a notch. Not only did I notice an increase in strength but I believe it can protect your fingers from injury in the first place. Gotta buy more tape.
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climb512
Jul 22, 2001, 4:27 AM
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I agree with Kagunkie, taping helps with finger strength, especially when there is ligament damage.I believe on the harder routes it also helps prevent injury. tape up!
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kriso9tails
Jul 22, 2001, 5:49 AM
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I heard that taping doesn't prevent ligament or tendon damage, it just keeps the pain down. I'm not sure on that though. Hey if it helps you climb when you probably would have been climbing on it anyway, I can't see it as making a difference.
I only use it to keep flappers closed until I can clip them off cleanly. I've used hols that have been sharp enough to cut me (as have we all), but I fing that tape causes me to lose sensitivity (I guess that's the point) which irritates the hell out of me.
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kagunkie
Jul 22, 2001, 8:36 AM
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Apply a narrow band of tape to the second and third didgits only, not the tips. You might notice increased strength without loosing sensitivity. Works for me.
[ This Message was edited by: kagunkie on 2001-07-22 01:53 ]
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kriso9tails
Jul 22, 2001, 6:20 PM
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Do you find that any ligament/tendon injuries are still sore after you untape? I know a couple of people who would tape for that reason and they ended up causing more damage, but it's probably case sensitive and will only be harmful if you are injured in a specific manner.
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krillen
Jul 23, 2001, 7:22 PM
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Taped once, and the tape sweat/slid off, causing no end of mental irritation. I agree with Kris, I climb using a lot of tactile hold searching/testing and I like the touch sensitivity. I love being able to feel what I'm doing.
And there are many sports doctors, physio, and sports therapists that don't necessarily follow the tapign practice. From what I've eseen, it's spread 50/50.
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ramones
Jul 30, 2001, 1:44 AM
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Taping is for wusse unless you have a cut then its ok
(If your gonna tape use metolius tape it the best but a pain to tare)It won't slip off
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marcsv
Jul 30, 2001, 3:01 AM
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i tape three of my fingers on each hand for support. got my finger problems from my previous sport
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climber1
Aug 8, 2001, 6:10 AM
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I always tape up for Joshua Tree cracks:)
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wandt
Aug 8, 2001, 7:21 AM
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For flappers, try krazy-glue. I s--- you not- it's the stuff!
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kelv^
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Aug 8, 2001, 11:46 AM
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i find that i really need to tape my fingers when my skin is ripping apart!!..problem is that i am allergic to tape or anything which is sticky including band aid.....what should i do??
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matt
Aug 8, 2001, 1:57 PM
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I tape my fingers when they get cut up, that way it eases the pain and allowes me to climb harder. Also, there's no denyn' Krazy glue...works great on flappers!
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broganadams
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Aug 9, 2001, 9:30 PM
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Only when I get hurt wich is not that often.
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congo
Aug 12, 2001, 3:02 PM
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damn right kag.
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krillen
Aug 13, 2001, 2:39 AM
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Okay I have to edit my previous statement. I said I had trie dit once and it pissed me off. Well my current project is a 15 ft (ish) roof crack, and after a month adn a half of bruising etc. I tried it again. This time around my wrists and MAN does it make a difference!! I still don't do my fingers but I can see it's uses now!
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naturalhigh
Aug 14, 2001, 5:46 AM
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normally i don't tape up but when climbing, say, and really pumpy overhanging climb with lots of crimpers and razor sharp rock, taping the first two joints on all 4 fingers helps TONS. The increase in finger strength is really amazing, when you consider that all you did was put a little tape on your hands...
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wolf2000
Oct 8, 2001, 10:27 PM
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I only tape if I get a flapper, or a big cut, otherwise I never tape
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wolf2000
Oct 8, 2001, 10:28 PM
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I only tape if I get a flapper, or a big cut, otherwise I never tape
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woodse
Oct 8, 2001, 11:21 PM
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I only use tape if I have a cut, flapper or blister....otherwise I prefer to get the feel of the rock.
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froggy
Oct 11, 2001, 11:31 PM
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Definitely tape - it feels way better !!!
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camhead
Oct 11, 2001, 11:50 PM
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On cracks I always tape, especially hands to fist widths. Does anyone else reuse their tape by making "gloves"? Or am I a weirdo?
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paulc
Oct 12, 2001, 1:35 AM
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I usually tape the backs of my hands and around the wrists when climbing crack. You don't want gobbies there they hurt. I occasionally tape fingers at the base of my fingers, but usually only if I am injured. I have never taped tips. Krazy glue is the bomb!!!
Hey glove boy!!! Everyone who climbs crack on a regular basis tries to save their "gloves" you end up using so much tape that it is worth it. Don't sweat it.
Paul
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benjo
Oct 12, 2001, 9:31 PM
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I climb in Indian Creek a lot and my favorite type of climbing is crack climbing. I've had a hard time with tape because my hands sweat so bad that it slips off, even when I make a tape glove. I usually don't have a problem with it though. Me and my friend climbed the regular Northwest Face of Half Dome in 7 hours a couple years ago. He taped and I didn't. When we got to the top his hands were cut and bloody and I only had a few little scrapes. There have been times when I have shredded my hands quite a bit though. If I am climbing for more than two days in a crack climbing area, I usually tape. Because a week in Indian Creek without taping will shred your hands.
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scarface
Oct 12, 2001, 11:38 PM
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tape
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beta
Oct 17, 2001, 4:39 AM
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Lots of cracks here, can I ask, what type of tape do you use? anyone???
Jeff
[ This Message was edited by: beta on 2001-10-23 19:25 ]
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crackwhore
Nov 19, 2001, 8:11 AM
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another way to disconnect oneself from the rock.
another form of A0
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bart
Nov 19, 2001, 2:41 PM
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My uncle is a sports doctor and he said many climbing injuries could be avoided with tape. But I said it to another climber and he thought that if you tape your fingers every time, your fingers will loose there strenght instead of gain. If you would climb without tape then, injury will happen. So, what's the best thing. Maybe you should only tape if you're bouldering (hard moves with little holds)?
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rocmonkey
Nov 20, 2001, 7:43 AM
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I usually tape the three middle fingers on each hand just behind the first finger joint. I also tape my left wrist.
Dunno why I do the wrist...just something I do.
I only tape on rock, not indoors.
breathe stone
RoC
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graniteboy
Dec 5, 2001, 2:59 AM
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It depends on what you're climbing. I don't tape for most easy cracks (5.9 and down). On the other hand, my hands look pretty leathery from 3 decades of crack climbing. I always tape on walls (and use gloves sometimes, too), as you'll beat you hands jugging. I always tape for hard hand/fist cracks in Josh. For sprot climbing, I tape my ring tendons as many people are suggesting. Some sprot climbs need the x-finger mtd. And krazy glue is designed for flappers.
And last but not least: Duct tape your whole body for the Harding slot on astroman.
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floof
Jan 13, 2002, 2:10 AM
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(my first post; been lurking/learning/laughing. except for the occasional chuffer, this is a great climbing community)
If I get cut and I start to bleed, I put some anti-bacterial ointment on the cut and tape it to keep the ointment there, the blood off the rock/wall, and decrease the sensitivity over the cut. As for tape around the wrist, does that prevent carpal tunnel? I see some people doing it. As a programmer, I'm always looking for ways to prevent carpal tunnel syndrome. But other than cuts, I don't tape.
I thought I'd save some money and bought tape at a pharmacy and it blew. Need to wrap it a bunch or it just slipps off. Bought some of the 1/2" tape my gym sells and it's yummy sticky. It's made by Kendall (that's what the inner cardboard says).
I went to Joshua Tree for New Years and wore weight lifting gloves. I still had sensitivity in my tips, but didn't get cut up when mantling or stemming. The only cut I got was when a little rock crystal got stuck in a fingertip.
-John
[ This Message was edited by: floof on 2002-01-13 22:33 ]
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