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Devils Tower
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mewalrus


Sep 12, 2003, 7:37 PM
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Registered: Jun 10, 2003
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Call Frank Sanders at Devils Tower Lodge. He is an expert in guiding beginers up the Durrance route. He is also a great guy.
I agree - Frank is a great guide and knows the Durrance Route like the back of his hand. There are around 220 or so routes and Frank has put up (or helped put up) around 50 of them. Check out his web site and give him a call. http://www.devilstowerlodge.com/

double ditto

Frank Rocks!!!


fitz


Sep 15, 2003, 3:12 PM
Post #27 of 31 (2884 views)
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Registered: Jul 15, 2002
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Yet another vote for Frank. He's great and his B&B is as close as you can possibly get!

If you can pull 5.9 at the gym and walk up 10 flights of stairs without keeling over, Frank can get you up safely and under your own power.

If you want to do it on your own, be sure to work up to 5.8 trad leading at your local crag first. Also, if at all possible, try some easier (5.3-5.5) multi-pitch routes first. A good granite area like Tahquitz or Lover's Leap is a great place to hone rope handling, swinging leads, etc.

I think that DT climbing and pro are straightforward, I'd worry more about getting off. Those cracks eat ropes and daylight gets scarce when you are waiting at each belay station for other parties on a trade route like Durrance.

A long day, twilight, and hopelessly stuck lines can be a disaster just waiting to happen.

Good Luck, it is an awesome climb.

-jjf


bull


Sep 17, 2003, 2:00 PM
Post #28 of 31 (2884 views)
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Registered: Sep 9, 2003
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Thanks for all the advice I see that I have some work to do before I head to wyoming.


winglady


Sep 18, 2003, 2:41 PM
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other than the gym where is a good place to try to get some experience in or near Denver where i wont kill my self?

Golden Cliffs (aka North Table) in Golden (overlooking the Coors plant), Eldorado Springs (near Boulder), lots of crags along Boulder Canyon, Castlewood Canyon (near Castle Rock) all come to mind, just to name a very few.

However, you can still "kill yourself" at any of these places if you don't know what you're doing. Find an experienced trad partner to help teach you the ropes (or the pro, as the case may be) or join the Colorado Mountain Club (http://www.cmc.org) and sign up for one of their rock-climbing/leading schools (they're non-profit, and use excellent yet all-volunteer instructors, so the cost is a lot less than going through a private school).


oldeclimber


Sep 19, 2003, 8:19 PM
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Registered: Jul 16, 2003
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Bull,

I attempted the Durrance route on the Tower a few years ago. At the time, I only had about two years of outdoor climbing, mainly sport and very limited trad under my belt. I had worked some multipitch so my rope management was OK. Anyway, I worked up to about 250 feet above the ramp and realized that this climb was out of my range. I did the smart thing.... I backed off. I know that it was the right thing to do, since I am still alive. I have worked more trad into my climbing over the past few years and would feel more qualified to tackle that rock now. The point here is not to rush it. Sure the Tower is an awsome rock, but only if you can make it up and down safely. I still want to make it to the top and one day I will. Just remember.....This is a sport that you can, and should, take a lifetime to learn. Think about it.

Good luck with your climbing!


marcel


Sep 23, 2003, 11:22 AM
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Registered: Jul 29, 2002
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Call Frank Sanders at Devils Tower Lodge. He is an expert in guiding beginers up the Durrance route. He is also a great guy.

I hired Frank a couple of years ago and I agree 100%! For your first outside climbing, take gblauer's advice. Frank will show you a good time and he is one heck of a character. Also his rates are very reasonable.

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