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passthepitonspete
Jul 7, 2003, 8:45 PM
Post #26 of 28
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Registered: Oct 10, 2001
Posts: 2183
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I see that Climbing Magazine has updated its website, and you can click here to read my Tech Tip about the Better Way to join together two fixed ropes for jugging and rappelling.
Here's the knot, eh?
http://home.pacbell.net/takasper/shimgrey.gifhttp://www.climbing.com/...303_222_tt_aid_1.gif
I rather like Mike Clelland's drawing:
http://home.pacbell.net/takasper/shimgrey.gifhttp://www.climbing.com/...303_222_tt_aid_2.gif
You can see how buddy has clipped into the loop formed by the knot using a locker on his belay loop. While this will work, I usually recommend using something a bit longer like a "cow's tail," which is what we cavers call a sling attached to our harnesses to clip in with during changeovers. The longer point of attachment gives you an extra degree of freedom.
I usually don't bother with a locker, either, since you're attached to the rope by never fewer than two points.
Watch Climbing Magazine for an upcoming Tech Tip on the The Frog System - the Better Way to Ascend a Free-Hanging Fixed Rope.
Cheers,
Dr. Piton
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gthornberg
Jul 7, 2003, 9:19 PM
Post #27 of 28
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Registered: May 7, 2003
Posts: 106
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Um. I just saw the movie "The Boy Who Could Fly" and I'm now convinced that I no longer need a rope.
I have to go put my cape on now.
GT
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gunkiemike
Jul 9, 2003, 12:31 AM
Post #28 of 28
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Registered: Oct 1, 2002
Posts: 2266
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Time for me to add my $0.02 to this thread. An earlier post asked why you can't just stop above the knot, reattach the device below the knot and continue. Well, as anyone who has tried it knows, there's a fair amount of slack to be taken up, hence the all-too-common down prusikking. And using a releasable knot, a la Munter, on the friction knot or jug (the one that's weighted above the device) generally means that it's out of reach by the time you're back on your ATC. Kudos to PTPP for acknowledging this (Step 17). If this happens you have to jug back up to get it.
So here's my BETTER WAY (contact my lawyer for TM infringement fees): Hint #1 is to use the butterfly to isolate the knot joining the two ropes. A butterfly is only two inches tall compared to a foot or so for a retraced eight + tie offs. Hint #2 - start the rap with your device extended a foot or so (typically on a doubled runner). Stop above the knot, tie off above it with a releasable friction knot, and clip in elsewhere as a safety as usual. But when you put the device on the rope below the butterfly, clip the device directly to your belay loop. This should leave you with mere inches of slack and your upper prusik will not be out of reach when you're off it.
Edited to clarify, and to ward off a BWT accusation - Hint #2 doesn't buy you any advantage directly. Consider - if you extend your device a foot, that's one foot less slack you need to pass via the releasable friction knot (RFK). But you have to start with this knot a foot farther away, to stay above the device. The gain (to me anyway, YMMV) is that I can get my RFK much closer to my ATC if it's extended. I use a Munter-mule and that's kinda bulky - if I put the device directly on my harness loop, the RFK rides a good 6-8" above the ATC. Starting with the knot closer means it ends being that much closer, and it's those 6 inches that make all the difference. (end EDIT)
Disclaimer - I haven't done this with a pig. But by eliminating the need to downjug or step up, you never have to fight gravity. So it should be amenable to a pigride too.
Mike - better living through gravity
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