|
coclimber26
Oct 26, 2002, 1:42 PM
Post #26 of 33
(2672 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 8, 2002
Posts: 928
|
Sometimes R just means you have to get more creative with your pro placements..
|
|
|
|
|
rrrADAM
Oct 28, 2002, 2:18 PM
Post #27 of 33
(2672 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 19, 1999
Posts: 17553
|
You guys are splitting hairs here...
R=Serious injury is possible if you fall.
X=DEATH is possible if you fall.
|
|
|
|
|
climber_andy
Nov 7, 2002, 4:05 AM
Post #28 of 33
(2672 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 2, 2002
Posts: 32
|
I haven't hit a lot of R routes yet on trad, since I'm still figuring out where my limits are by working up through the grades. I got to about 5.8+/5.9- (I got the 8s I did clean, the 9s kicked my ass but I made it up them ) before winter set in here... yeah, I'm a wuss and don't climb much once there's snow on the holds.
However, I have done some soloing on stuff about 3-4 (probably closer to 4 most days) grades lower than what I lead, so I guess I could say I'd lead that if it was rated R. I'm not sure I'd lead 5.8R though, but I guess it depends on the day. Somedays I just can't seem to get into sticking my neck out, others I wander off alone to solo anyways, so I'll try most anything those days.
It's all about having fun and going with the flow of things. I've learned not to push it on my off days, cause I'm usually off, and those are the scary moments. Although I kind of like the scary moments... maybe I should look into that.
|
|
|
|
|
maculated
Nov 7, 2002, 4:26 AM
Post #29 of 33
(2672 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 23, 2001
Posts: 6179
|
When I first started climbing, my partners wouldn't even look at an "R" climb. Not worth it, they said. Well, I got to Tuolumne and realized quickly that had to change.
Now, my theory is, if it's protectable where I NEED it, then yay. This is probably very naive, but bolts are placed where needed most of the time. So if the route's got bolts, I'm happy.
Runouts with trad are a different story for me, though. Not having taken a lead fall yet in trad - I'm not sure I'd want to do it on an R.
|
|
|
|
|
gawd
Nov 7, 2002, 4:32 AM
Post #30 of 33
(2672 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 193
|
"r' is a calculation that only each person can evaluate.....to state that is 'r' repersents many things.........
and to claim to climb a grade 'r' should be considered more pure leads....as the empehisis is not to fall and to know that your protection is set....
it means nothing......
|
|
|
|
|
grippedclimber
Nov 13, 2002, 10:12 PM
Post #31 of 33
(2672 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 24, 2002
Posts: 65
|
I would definitely not sat that it means nothing having climbed alot of R routes myself. I would say that to a certain degree ratings mean nothing, but they do give an idea of the "nature" of the pitch.
I have climbed alot of 5.10R's and find that only one or two of them had actual 5.10R on them. Most of the time the R section is not the crux, I think people miss out on a lot of great climbs because the R rating scares them away. I also think that those who rate their pitch 5.10R where the R part is only like 5.8 should really be rating their pitch 5.10(5.8R), but I have learned from alotta R rated experience that is not the case at all.
|
|
|
|
|
pbjosh
Nov 15, 2002, 5:33 PM
Post #32 of 33
(2672 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 22, 2002
Posts: 1518
|
One route I recently lead that I would give a definite R to was Overseer Direct... Crux moves come ~8' above a couple of MANKY nuts which are at least 10-15' above good gear. Go for a good tumble on the way down...
josh
|
|
|
|
|
tradguy
Nov 15, 2002, 5:37 PM
Post #33 of 33
(2672 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 22, 2002
Posts: 526
|
Quote:Yet "r" is defined as a simple runout.
I disagree, Stroker. My understanding was that this was based on the "movie-rating" system, not that "R" was short for "runout". I've always thought of it like this:
PG = moderate runout, minor injury possible
PG-13 = long runout, moderate injury possible
R = long runouts with groundfall potential, significant injury likely, death possible
X = little or no pro, certain groundfall, death likely
I will get on PG routes regularly, and not worry about it much. PG-13 makes me think a bit before I start the route - basically it needs to be nice looking route or I won't consider it worth the bother. R requires very serious consideration for me to get on it. I've only ever done a couple, and they've always been well within my abilities. I don't do X's - they are equivalent to soloing, and I don't solo.
Some might call me a wuss for taking this approach, but I have never had a significant injury from climbing, and I would prefer to keep it that way. There's enough cool stuff out there that I don't need to risk death on an "X".
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
