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tenn_dawg
Sep 26, 2003, 2:34 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Sometimes I fall getting out of bed. Now--and more importantly--what do I win? Curt for that, you win a bottle of Jim Beam. White label. bwaaaahahaha! Hahahahahahaha!!! Naw I think he's more deserving of something like "Evan Williams"...from a plastic bottle. Gotta love it, hahahaha
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collegekid
Sep 26, 2003, 2:51 AM
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i'm gonna ignore the "no sport" rule... My big toe is still recovering from a "fall" i took 2 weeks ago at stoney point...I was about to climb the easy yet tallish 5.4 on the street facing side of boulder one, of course without my pad under me...I stepped off while about 4 feet off the ground and my foot landed on a tennis-ball sized rock. My uber-tight anasazi's made the ball of my foot compress or something, and started hurting like crazy. I went on and easily completed the climb, then did the boulder one traverse (all the while thinking how much my foot hurt). When i got home, i could barely walk from my car to the front door.
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pico23
Sep 26, 2003, 3:51 AM
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In reply to: "man, there's no way that was a 5.7!" yeah right. you suck. honestly, what is the lowest rating on which you've fallen, or even hung on gear? I pulled on a cam on "the naked and the dead," a 5.8 at Indian Creek. It was cold! I couldn't feel my hands, dammit! so yeah. if anyone has whipped on a 5.4, they get the prize (ouch!). trad climbs only, please, as sport sucks. 5.4? Yep. 5.5? Yep. I get the prize right? what do I win? I've also fallen on a 5.7. The falls were clean on all the falls and I knew one was coming but I was off route and pumped out (the 5.5). The 5.4 was weird. I didn't see it coming, I guess I missed the foot hold and lost my balance. Coincidentally I was paying more attention chatting with my buddies then actually climbing. That ground fall really scared me and I finally went back and led the climb this summer (two years later). the 5.7 was something similar, I just popped on a traverse through a bulge. I have the assume my first two falls were the result of lack of foot work and feeling in a foot. The pumped out deal was just me getting onto something a bit harder then 5.5 after I passed up a dirty sloping ledge in favor of the very steep shallow corner. being unable to move up or down i just said I'm coming off and whoooosh nice soft catch by my wife who caught her first real fall. I went back up and took a second fall trying to complete what was probably in the 5.9 range after not climbing for several months (at all). It didn't happen and I needed to rappel down to clean my gear. Since then I've taken a no falls policy.
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macattack22
Sep 26, 2003, 3:59 AM
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Heh.... I have actually fallen on a 5.4. :? First time I ever led trad, at Mission Gorge in San Diego. Mindlessly easy route, until the top 15 feet which were bolted due to lack of pro placements. I'd just placed a #8 hex endwise, totally bomber, and climbed up to just below the bolt. Went too far right on the slab, where the feet were slippery (gotta love that polished MG granite :roll: ), and slid right off of it. I took a nice tumbler down the 6-8 feet to the hex and past it, plus rope stretch and whatever slack the belayer was feeding out as I made the huge step up... probably not quite even 20 feet but with all the bumps on the way down it was pretty killer. Oh, and the hex held like a dream BTW. It wasn't so bad though, looking back, really helped me be less afraid of falling.
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steakboy
Sep 26, 2003, 4:00 AM
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this is my first post here, but, I've been lurking around for a while here. I haven't taken my first fall yet and I don't even climb trad natural pro stuff yet. but don't the easy climbs have lots of ledge's to fall on? that's how it is in sport, at least. I can't even comprehend falling on trad, I'm still scared of falling on sport lol! how do you guys trust your chocks? :shock:
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robmcc
Sep 26, 2003, 4:45 AM
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If you can't trust your own nuts to stay where you put 'em, who can you trust?
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robmcc
Sep 26, 2003, 4:54 AM
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Much as it's against my religion, I'm going to give a serious answer because I've actually given thought to this. You see, I've actually tried sport climbing. I'll do the appropriate penance later (30 lashes with a set of hexes, right?), but let's skip that for now. I hate bolts. I don't trust 'em. They could be toothpicks set in bubble gum for all the confidence they inspire in me. You see, they're not mine. I don't know what's happened to them. I can't pull them out and inspect them. I can't tell if they were set properly. Now, gimme a nut. I can look at it. It's mine. I know how many falls it's taken. I can see that it's structurally sound. I know exactly how old it is and that it's had an easy life. I generally know a lot about the rock it's placed in because I got to look at it without the pro in the way. And some placements are just bomber. Can't come out short of human intervention. Solid metal well placed in solid rock or toothpicks in bubble gum. I'll take trad, thanks.
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neph
Sep 26, 2003, 5:14 AM
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Well, seeing all the posts makes me feel a bit better about posting this... :P My first lead fall was on a 5.5 (East Slab on the Dome in Boulder Canyon). However, I had forgotten my climbing shoes that day, and instead of hiking down and driving home to get them, I thought, "Gee, I've lead this like 6 times now, I could do it in my hiking boots...". Yeah. Right. The crux involves smearing with one foot, which didn't work too well in the boots, so one quick curse word later, I'm sliding down the slab. A #7 WC Rock caught my fall, so I tried again and finished the climb in spite of the bloody slab rash on my palms (I still have a scar from it).
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pico23
Sep 26, 2003, 8:20 AM
Post #34 of 55
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In reply to: this is my first post here, but, I've been lurking around for a while here. I haven't taken my first fall yet and I don't even climb trad natural pro stuff yet. but don't the easy climbs have lots of ledge's to fall on? that's how it is in sport, at least. I can't even comprehend falling on trad, I'm still scared of falling on sport lol! how do you guys trust your chocks? :shock: Ledges exist on most trad climbs. Even the mid and higher grades have them. Actually there are many 5.easys in the Gunks that have clean falls on much of the climb. I can even think of a few 5.2's with relatively clean falls. That said, you shouldn't be falling often (if at all) on the easy stuff. If you are you need to spend more time on TR or following to build your climbing ability before taking the sharp end. Contrary to common belief a grade doesn't indicate fall safety. A guy died in the Gunks this spring on a 5.7 which many people consider above the I can fall now grade.
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mewalrus
Sep 26, 2003, 10:59 PM
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My only Trad fall was on a 5.8 and my feet were only about 3 feet off the ground, my first cam held most of the fall. I take a don't fall attitude on trad. The start felt like 5.10, but I guess the first 10 feet don't really count.
In reply to: a 5.7 which many people consider above the I can fall now grade. I don't know, but from what I've see you don't want to fall under 5.9 much.
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davidji
Sep 27, 2003, 12:09 AM
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I fell in the Cathedral Spires Gully a few times when it was wet and I was in running shoes (poor traction on dry granite, terrible on wet), and wearing a pack that was slightly too large and didn't carry well. I didn't get hurt, but on one of the falls, I though I would.
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rockmx
Sep 27, 2003, 12:14 AM
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I pull a .75 camalot on some really easy A1
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fredo
Sep 27, 2003, 1:40 AM
Post #38 of 55
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I fall while running up the steps to my apt...hehe okay ignore me as I am the village idiot
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skiorclimb
Sep 29, 2003, 6:14 AM
Post #39 of 55
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Birdland (5.8) Gunks. I saw a hold out left, but thought i could go stright up. I was wrong.
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ouflyboy9
Sep 30, 2003, 11:08 PM
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i fell on my first ever trad lead...5.6...bedtime for bonzo at red river
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rvega
Sep 30, 2003, 11:27 PM
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Don't fall on leads, at least not yet. However, I took a nasty spill on a exit after pulling four long pitches in Yosemite. Decided to walk off in Tevas, slipped in some dust and landed on a tree...branch went right through the top of my foot and one through my palm. Still have the scars. My worst climbing injury ever.
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petsfed
Sep 30, 2003, 11:35 PM
Post #42 of 55
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In reply to: Well, seeing all the posts makes me feel a bit better about posting this... :P My first lead fall was on a 5.5 (East Slab on the Dome in Boulder Canyon). However, I had forgotten my climbing shoes that day, and instead of hiking down and driving home to get them, I thought, "Gee, I've lead this like 6 times now, I could do it in my hiking boots...". Yeah. Right. The crux involves smearing with one foot, which didn't work too well in the boots, so one quick curse word later, I'm sliding down the slab. A #7 WC Rock caught my fall, so I tried again and finished the climb in spite of the bloody slab rash on my palms (I still have a scar from it). Total threadjack and I apologize, but I never had to smear to do the route. At least not at the crux. I do tend to fall off there, but I just hit the ground.
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norushnomore
Oct 1, 2003, 8:54 AM
Post #43 of 55
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Solid class 2 terrain. Was working on my 'climbing' skills when I lost my balance going over some rather large tree roots. Landed in a bushes 20 feet below with the bike on top of me. I was performing onsight free solo thus no protection what so ever (ropes and cams are for wussies)
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rongoodman
Oct 4, 2003, 4:33 PM
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I think he's saying he fell on his fifth trad lead, "Urge for Going", rated 5.8. Then again, maybe not. I fell off City Lights, 5.7, in the Gunks and broke my ankle--clean fall, but my toe stuck to the rock somehow on the way down.
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herm
Oct 5, 2003, 8:47 PM
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This is the truth- Three weeks ago I got up from this computer in the dark and fell over a collapsable camp chair, and one of the poles impaled me in the solar plexus. I flopped around like a fish on deck for a little while before discovering that I separated my lower left rib from my sternum. Ouch! No climbing for a few more weeks............... :(
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lifeguard4
Oct 9, 2003, 2:03 PM
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Posts: 140
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Okay, So I was doing a 5.9 trad climb and there were three pitches. The first two were 5.9 and 5.8 but the last one was a fourth class to the top. Needless to say as I was going up the fourth class I fell. It was a pretty good ten foot fall that sent me tumbling somewhat onto a flat spot and kind of wedged in a crack. I guess that I should also add that I fell not because I suck (That's what I keep telling myself) but because both of my feet holds totaly broke. Anyways I still fell on a fourth class and I think that my climbing reached an all time low that day.
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johnnord
Oct 9, 2003, 2:28 PM
Post #47 of 55
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Registered: Oct 1, 2003
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5.4 at Lover's Leap. I stepped out on one of those great horizontal dikes and it broke off. About a 20 footer. Gashed my shin. Lots of blood.
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cyberclimber
Oct 9, 2003, 3:03 PM
Post #48 of 55
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You saw my easiest fall, Paul. Last year in the Ta's. 5.8 trad lead on Sundown Dihedral, 20ft grounder, remember the big cloud of dust? First climb of the RC.com gathering and I fall on a stupid 5.8, AFTER the crux, AFTER reaching the big diving board hold,,,how embarassing!! :oops: Thanks for reminding me!
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climbingbum
Oct 9, 2003, 3:22 PM
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This fall was actually my partner, but I'll post rather then waiting on him to do it. At the time he was climbing 5.12 sport. So, he's on a 5.9 sport climb, passes the crux. The remainder goes at most 5.5 to the top. He decides to skip the bolt, trying to impress the onlookers. He did, as he sailed roughly 45 feet landing about 15 feet off the ground in a fit of laughter....
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mrme
Oct 9, 2003, 3:59 PM
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i was at the junks on high E with my friend 'around when i first started climbing'. My friend being the better climber I.E. more experince than I lowers down and decides he can not lead 5 feet of the climb if only i could make it there and clip the peton and back it up and come back down if i could not finish the climb he would then.... stupied me i agree lower him to the ledge and take the sharp end i climb to his high peice and launch upto the next piton... no problem 8) i am mr coll now i back it up..... i yell i made it really easy i am going on up so i launch up another piece goes by another piton clipped and by also...... dam it is a little run out from that last piton to the top were it rounds off or looked so ..... i climb up run out 10 ft find a small crack yyyyyyeeeeessssss through in a sweet tcu metolious purple or blue ....can't remember wich now ..... any way decid to set on it because i could not belive i just climb that high abouve my last piece i had never done that before' climbing with not knowing if i would get gear' so i go to set never hung on gear and i never trusted cams exspecially these small ones... the piece rips as i am leating go of the rock somehow i manage to regrip the rock not falling ..... I kick it into high gear and down climb in secounds to my last peice while simultaniously grabing that old piton and yelling take the rope comes taunt and i yell down to lower my ass back to the f*cking ledge i am threw leading that climb ,back on the ledge my belair never said anything so i told him what happend ... he roped up and lead the rest....to this day i hate tcu's .... though i do know how to properly test one for a good or bad placment now.
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