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copperhead
Nov 13, 2003, 6:11 AM
Post #26 of 34
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Registered: Nov 26, 2002
Posts: 668
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Principle.
The principal is your bro, the principal (who is supposedly your "pal" when you are in grade school (and they don't call it GRADE school for nothin')).
12 and counting. You?
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passthepitonspete
Nov 13, 2003, 6:21 AM
Post #27 of 34
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Registered: Oct 10, 2001
Posts: 2183
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TWELVE!
Holy frig, dude - my helmet is off to you!
I'm just now finishing up the bottle of chardonnay, and I'm 3/4 in the bag, however IM with hottie is going well. My defences are down..... my heart is revealed.
Damn. 12. You stud, you. Next thing I know you'll be soloing El Cap. [I am such a cheap drunk....]
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copperhead
Nov 13, 2003, 6:26 AM
Post #28 of 34
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Registered: Nov 26, 2002
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Nah, it's just another weeknight.
Well, Zippy beat me again (not that he kicked my ass or anything because I don't think that's possible...) on my last edit. Yes, I'm slow.
Dude, you are laggin'!!! Drink up!!! You call yourself a wall climber????
You have good timing, though. 621 is my race # and the summer solstice.
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passthepitonspete
Nov 13, 2003, 6:33 AM
Post #29 of 34
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Registered: Oct 10, 2001
Posts: 2183
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I know, I know ... p*ssy personified.
Twelve?! Dang.
{Dr. Piton goes down on bended knee, and utters 'Amen, Bryan, Amen, Bryan'.....}
On the wall, it only takes half an Olde E.
Weekday? What's that???
I missed the lunar eclipse last night - did you get it in Cali?
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copperhead
Nov 13, 2003, 6:43 AM
Post #30 of 34
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Registered: Nov 26, 2002
Posts: 668
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13
In reply to: I missed the lunar eclipse last night - did you get it in Cali?
Uhhh, my (currently) ignorant brain has been too focused on working on my dirt bike for Sunday's race and pimping it out. Astronomy is way cool but I guess I missed this one. Media? What media? Horsepower? Now we're talkin'!
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bspisak
Nov 13, 2003, 4:27 PM
Post #31 of 34
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Registered: Sep 18, 2002
Posts: 74
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In reply to: That 1 cm movement of the thumb shouldn't cause your thumb to hurt, Brian, much less your ass.
It doesn't hurt, I just don't like fumbling for the lever every time I want to push the bottom jug up. Maybe I'm just lazy or uncoordinated, whatever.
In reply to: I haven't tried the ascender-grigri-adjustable-fifi-designated-sling method yet...
Ahhh.... definitely give it a go. But, you don't need adjustable-fifi-designated-sling. Just replace the bottom jug with a gri-gri and do everything else the same.
In reply to: I just find it surprising that the main advantage you cite is that it spares your thumb a few extra motions.
I didn't mean to imply that was the main advantage. The original thread was about backing up and I simply said that using the gri-gri made it more likely you'd tie a back-up knot since you didn't have the fight the bottom jug. I hypothesized that people don't tie a backup when using two jugs because of that problem. I dunno, maybe THEY're just lazy.
One other point related to safety is that the gri-gri can never come off the rope accidently, unlike an ascender. You state the chances of two jugs blowing of the rope is a one and a million event. I would agree if you are jugging a fixed vertical line with no deviations to pass. However, once you intentionally remove that top jug to pass a piece, you are now on just the bottom jug. The jug you were fighting by opening the cam. The cam that you might have opened past the safety. Ok, that's a stupid thing to do, but people have died that way. I gri-gri is fool proof, and maybe I'm the fool that lives another day.
In reply to: By the way, did you get up a wall this autumn like you were hoping?
Yeah, I did my first solo on the tower.
Brian
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ep
Nov 13, 2003, 6:04 PM
Post #32 of 34
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Registered: Jul 23, 2003
Posts: 88
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In reply to: Geeeeeeezzz.... I said "adjustable daisy" not "adjustable fifi".... The fifi is not for everyone, and it sure as hell sucks the big one if the cord ain't slippery enough.
You mean the one time I actually struggle through one of your posts on the better way to do something, it turns out you didn't really mean it?
In reply to: In reply to: I haven't tried the ascender-grigri-adjustable-fifi-designated-sling method yet... Ahhh.... definitely give it a go. But, you don't need adjustable-fifi-designated-sling. Just replace the bottom jug with a gri-gri and do everything else the same.
I suppose I will at some point. But I don't want to try out a new technique while on a wall and practicing cleaning hasn't been a high priority for me this year. I'd rather free climb. Besides, my ancient and outdated two jumar technique actually works just fine. I could use help improving my mostly self-taught leading methods, particularly when soloing. But jugging and cleaning? That's usually when I'm most relaxed and just enjoying the rhythm. It would be fun to have a jug race. Paul Bunyun versus the chainsaw.
One small thing about the GriGri method: When the pitch is straight up, the wall is clean and the wind low, you still have to tie a knot every 20'-30' or so, right? With two jugs, I'll maybe tie a couple or three for the whole pitch. A tiny issue, granted; maybe on par with that 1 cm thumb motion.
In reply to: In reply to: By the way, did you get up a wall this autumn like you were hoping? Yeah, I did my first solo on the tower.
Awesome! Congratulations and welcome to the club.
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bspisak
Nov 13, 2003, 10:56 PM
Post #33 of 34
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Registered: Sep 18, 2002
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In reply to: One small thing about the GriGri method: When the pitch is straight up, the wall is clean and the wind low, you still have to tie a knot every 20'-30' or so, right? With two jugs, I'll maybe tie a couple or three for the whole pitch. A tiny issue, granted; maybe on par with that 1 cm thumb motion.
I'm not sure why you'd wanna tie more backup knots with the gri-gri. You'd end up lifting more rope on each stroke (as you got a bigger loop) if you didn't, but that ain't no biggy. You can also clip the free end of the rope up through your upper jug attachment biner so you can use a downward stroke (which also gives you a bit of mechanical advantage), but I find that isn't as efficient since the gri-gri tends to slip a bit (until it settles onto the rope) at the top of the stroke. YMMV.
If I was just scooting up some fixed lines, I'd pro'ly just use two jugs and not worry about the backup. That's me. Of course, there's always the caver's frog system, but that's another post and something I haven't yet tried myself!
Brian
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ep
Nov 13, 2003, 11:38 PM
Post #34 of 34
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Registered: Jul 23, 2003
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In reply to: I'm not sure why you'd wanna tie more backup knots with the gri-gri. You'd end up lifting more rope on each stroke (as you got a bigger loop) if you didn't, but that ain't no biggy.
I got this idea from reading one of Pete's long posts about the better way to clean pitches. I also know from aid soloing that leading without a backup loop, it starts to get pretty nasty to pull up slack after a while. But if you say that pulling up on a big loop of rope isn't a problem for you, then what can I say? I'll have to try it out myself sometime.
In reply to: If I was just scooting up some fixed lines, I'd pro'ly just use two jugs and not worry about the backup. That's me. Of course, there's always the caver's frog system, but that's another post and something I haven't yet tried myself!
Overhanging fixed lines aren't the same as cleaning, but it's funny you bring that up because it's one circumstance where I've wished I had a better system rigged. The frog system looks good to me there.
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