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cardboarddog


Oct 6, 2003, 10:57 PM
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Did my first OS solo on Sunday. Easy 5.3. Man what a feeling. It was almost like being drunk.


helmut


Oct 6, 2003, 11:04 PM
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What is to be gained from reading this?


on_sight_man


Oct 6, 2003, 11:12 PM
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Did my first OS solo on Sunday. Easy 5.3. Man what a feeling. It was almost like being drunk.

Soloing is not something that should be talked about. Do it if you want to, enjoy the feeling, think hard about it, and then be quiet...


cardboarddog


Oct 6, 2003, 11:13 PM
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What's to be gained from reading your post?? If you read this hoping to gain something and you didn't, ignore it and move on. Otherwise fu$k off.


cardboarddog


Oct 6, 2003, 11:14 PM
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Fine.


crotch


Oct 6, 2003, 11:14 PM
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Soloing is not something that should be talked about. Do it if you want to, enjoy the feeling, think hard about it, and then be quiet...

Why not talk about it? I read an entry in a GUIDEBOOK yesterday that said something to the effect of "often soleoed at night while intoxicated."


jookyhead


Oct 6, 2003, 11:17 PM
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Why not talk about it? I read an entry in a GUIDEBOOK yesterday that said something to the effect of "often soleoed at night while intoxicated."

Did it add "Often died upon?" :P


cardboarddog


Oct 6, 2003, 11:17 PM
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In reply to:
Did my first OS solo on Sunday. Easy 5.3. Man what a feeling. It was almost like being drunk.

Soloing is not something that should be talked about. Do it if you want to, enjoy the feeling, think hard about it, and then be quiet...

Just one more thing before I be quiet. It shouldn't be talked about, as in on this board? Or as in the article recently published in Climbing mag. about what happened to the solo climbers? Or the numourous soloists pictured on climbing sites?

I'm a little confused.


stuck


Oct 6, 2003, 11:21 PM
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Soloing is awesome. It's the purest form of climbing. The more dangerous the better. Just do a couple of laps with a rope on, untie and dial that sucker.

Most hardcore climbers practice this form of climbing and you'll notice that they are also the ones who are popular and realing in the ladies.


graysondamondamian


Oct 6, 2003, 11:25 PM
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haha


flamer


Oct 6, 2003, 11:26 PM
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I'm sick of you little PU$$y's whining about soloing.
"WAAA! Don't Talk about soloing!!"
"WAAA! Did it say you could die?"
"WAAA! Don't solo you might get hurt! Or GASP! DIE"
If you Don't like it don't do it. If you're scared don't do it!


Don't Tell me or any other soloist's how to live our life!!
josh


cardboarddog


Oct 6, 2003, 11:31 PM
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I'm sick of you little PU$$y's whining about soloing.
"WAAA! Don't Talk about soloing!!"
"WAAA! Did it say you could die?"
"WAAA! Don't solo you might get hurt! Or GASP! DIE"
If you Don't like it don't do it. If you're scared don't do it!


Don't Tell me or any other soloist's how to live our life!!
josh

So I take it this happens often? All I have to say is, the sport is dangerous. We have cams and spectra and so we're safe? Or now half-assed climber can enjoy the crag? Fug that. I LOVE to climb. I boulder, I climb trad ( my fave ) and now I've soloed. I feel like I am a true climber. Should I not talk about that?


flamer


Oct 6, 2003, 11:39 PM
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It's like anything else Bro' Everybody wants to tell you how to live your life...But the only voice you should really listen to is your own.
Soloing isn't for everyone.... and alot of people think it's for no one.
The truth is You have to except the risk's for yourself.
I mean really! YOU COULD DIE ON THE COUCH EATING POTATO CHIPS!!
We are all ALIVE...but how many of us REALLY LIVE??
josh


rockmx


Oct 6, 2003, 11:47 PM
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Its not what you do for living, its what you do to feel alive.


dlintz


Oct 6, 2003, 11:50 PM
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I feel like I am a true climber.

I don't need to free solo to validate my own worth as a climber.

In reply to:
We are all ALIVE...but how many of us REALLY LIVE??

I don't need to free solo to validate my own worth as a living human being.

But hey, to each his own.


flamer


Oct 7, 2003, 12:00 AM
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But hey, to each his own.
EXACTLY!!
josh


flying_dutchman


Oct 7, 2003, 12:05 AM
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true soloists are the best, they don't brag and talk bullchit


herm


Oct 7, 2003, 12:06 AM
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I guess it's okay to solo and tell; just don't solo just to tell. If you're gonna do it, none of us can stop you.


cardboarddog


Oct 7, 2003, 12:14 AM
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true soloists are the best, they don't brag and talk bullchit

Hey, not my intention bro. Seriously thats why I put it was an easy 5.3. And a short 40 footer to boot.

I'm not about spray or arguements, just wanted to get it out. I have NO climbers in my life, if I told any one I run with they'd simply say I was a retard. But thats not how I felt, so I wanted to see how valid it was.

Everyone has an opinion and too an extent they're all valid.

Let me step off my little PC podium.


cardboarddog


Oct 7, 2003, 12:15 AM
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Soloing is not something that should be talked about. Do it if you want to, enjoy the feeling, think hard about it, and then be quiet...

Kind of like prison sex...


helmut


Oct 7, 2003, 5:58 PM
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Soloing should be done for the strict purpose of posting it on a message board. That is what all true climbers do.


cardboarddog


Oct 7, 2003, 6:05 PM
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Soloing should be done for the strict purpose of posting it on a message board. That is what all true climbers do.

Alright, alright I get it already. I'm a troll. So sorry I'm not a computer geek.

Jesus you people are harsh. :?


Partner rrrADAM


Oct 7, 2003, 6:10 PM
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Soloing is not something that should be talked about. Do it if you want to, enjoy the feeling, think hard about it, and then be quiet...


Gotta agree with this last one...

Do it for yourself, not to spray. I've gotten in trouble with the wife when she's seen pics of me doing this, so now I say, "I don't solo, I highball". :wink:


crazygirl


Oct 7, 2003, 6:18 PM
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why is this worse than saying " i just led my first 10a. woo-hoo"?


edge


Oct 7, 2003, 6:22 PM
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why is this worse than saying " i just led my first 10a. woo-hoo"?

It's not.

However, the thought or mention of soloing freaks out the insecure.


vertical_reality


Oct 7, 2003, 6:23 PM
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I have NO climbers in my life, if I told any one I run with they'd simply say I was a retard.

Thats what 90% of the people here will say too.



Glad that you made it back ok.


cardboarddog


Oct 7, 2003, 6:30 PM
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Glad that you made it back ok.

you and me both.


gat


Oct 7, 2003, 6:40 PM
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Just my simple (and usually worthless) opinion: As climbers, I think we should all be sensitive to the fact that we all have different levels of acceptable risk. The non-climber considers climbing too dangerous. The climber considers ropeless climbing too dangerous.

I say don't judge and don't worry, it's not your life on the line...unless that ropeless climber happens to be on the pitch above you, then it's time to worry.


valeberga


Oct 7, 2003, 6:44 PM
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Not impressed. Driving is more dangerous than soloing 5.3. Who falls on 5.3?


mreardon


Oct 7, 2003, 6:48 PM
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Not impressed. Driving is more dangerous than soloing 5.3. Who falls on 5.3?

A 5.2 climber.


mreardon


Oct 7, 2003, 6:49 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
why is this worse than saying " i just led my first 10a. woo-hoo"?

It's not.

However, the thought or mention of soloing freaks out the insecure.

The best response yet.

Congrats on the solo. Do it as often as it makes you happy, but always remember that it has it's consequences if you botch it.


jt512


Oct 7, 2003, 6:49 PM
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Did my first OS solo on Sunday. Easy 5.3. Man what a feeling. It was almost like being drunk.

Grow up.

-Jay


valeberga


Oct 7, 2003, 6:57 PM
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Not impressed. Driving is more dangerous than soloing 5.3. Who falls on 5.3?

A 5.2 climber.

Never heard of one...

Seems like everyone starts out at or above 5.6


stevematthys


Oct 7, 2003, 7:47 PM
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my first free solo was a two pitch 5.5 in eldorado canyon (brezzy). yea i know its 5.5 but once you get at exposure with out a rope the mental game really starts to take affect. get gripped pretty easily.


dynoguy


Oct 7, 2003, 8:00 PM
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cardboardog wrote

(Just one more thing before I be quiet. It shouldn't be talked about, as in on this board? Or as in the article recently published in Climbing mag. about what happened to the solo climbers? Or the numourous soloists pictured on climbing sites? )

1. If Climbing jumped off a bridge would you? :lol:

2. I have never freee soloed but if I ever do I won't be spraying it on this wedsite.


cardboarddog


Oct 7, 2003, 8:14 PM
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In reply to:
cardboardog wrote

(Just one more thing before I be quiet. It shouldn't be talked about, as in on this board? Or as in the article recently published in Climbing mag. about what happened to the solo climbers? Or the numourous soloists pictured on climbing sites? )

1. If Climbing jumped off a bridge would you? :lol:

2. I have never freee soloed but if I ever do I won't be spraying it on this wedsite.


Right, it's been covered over and over already if you had bothered to read others posts.
But just a little something, I know I'm cool as hell, and I know I'm f^&ckin' rad, but I don't need to jazz people on a message board to prove it. Kinda the same thing as spraying, don't cha think?


cardboarddog


Oct 7, 2003, 8:15 PM
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my first free solo was a two pitch 5.5 in eldorado canyon (brezzy). yea i know its 5.5 but once you get at exposure with out a rope the mental game really starts to take affect. get gripped pretty easily.


Sweet pictures!


herm


Oct 7, 2003, 8:18 PM
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I rarely fall on cruxes, it's almost always the class 2 that will get you. Soloing doesn't ever stop; once you start, you realize that you are never more than a toe-hold away from eternity. You will spend the rest of your life getting gripped in parkinglots and on buses, because you know that if you ever lose control, anywhere, not just on a climb, then it's all over. If you swallow that chip wrong, look out. Pay attention. Watch your feet.
Keep your hands at 2:00 and 10:00. Keep an eye on the weather. It's easy to prepare for the cruxes, it's the slog in between where it lurks, waiting for you to become distracted.....

Maybe best to never solo and stay normal...


dynoguy


Oct 7, 2003, 8:28 PM
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Cardboarddog what the hell do you mean by "jazz people"?


javaguy


Oct 7, 2003, 8:59 PM
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Soloing is great if you don't fall. It's the purest. So if know what you are doing. Then go solo. But NEVER talk about it.
:x Why?
Because people will think you are retarded for doing something that dangerous. BASE jumping and other extreme sports is not even close to soloing. And the ones that actually get impressed and thing it is cool might go and try it and get killed. So don't talk about it...and people who solo usually don't talk about it...because they do it only for themselves. It's not to be cool or anything..it is just because they love it. That is my opinion


hellclimber


Oct 7, 2003, 9:15 PM
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Congratulations cardboardhog!

To the people trying to stifle anyone excited about free soloing: I find you rather hypocritical. Climbers have an increased acceptance to risk compared to the average person. The level of acceptance differs. Some TR (this is probably a level of risk most people will accept). Taking the sharp end is definitely more dangerous. Less than free soloing but people still die. Than we have the difference between bouldering, gym climbing, sport and trad. Accept the risks you are all taking and accept the fact that not all people have the same level of risk acceptance.

hellclimber


squish


Oct 7, 2003, 9:20 PM
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Ok, I'll bite. The bait looks fresh.

Soloing is taboo. It's something that we highly respect, yet it's not something that's talked about so casually. Why?

It's a personal experience. You do it by yourself, for yourself. I'm not talking about the time you had to scramble up to get a stuck rope because you had to. I mean when you set out to "solo" intentionally just for the rush, the headgame, the feeling of self-awarenesss. Sure, it can be personally constructive but it means absolutely nothing to anyone else but you. Kind of like masturbation. You don't talk about that, do you?

It can be self-destructive. If you brag about it, I'm afraid you're doing it out of ego. Don't let your ego incite you to solo for glory! Keep it to yourself and make sure it's not about that.

It can be destructive to others. People are curious apes. If you brag about how you soloed something and it was an earth-shattering experience, someone else is going to try it on your word to see what it's all about. You don't want to promote this idea in people who aren't self-realized enough to decide for themselves.

In addition to the last point, people are competitive apes. Soloing is not and should never be about competition with others. Don't talk about it lest you make it seem that way.

Finally and perhaps most importantly, it's not something that anyone wants to see or have any sort of involvement when something does go wrong. How do you think your friends will feel after your death when they think that they could have stopped you? If you're going to do it, don't implicate anyone else.

Bottom line: It's a matter of personal ettiquette not to talk about it.

Don't be so casual as to say that it's your "first." It implies that there will be a progression. Know yourself and know your reasons before you actively decide to do this, then do us all a favour and keep it to yourself.


roughster


Oct 7, 2003, 9:27 PM
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In reply to:
Ok, I'll bite. The bait looks fresh.

Soloing is taboo. It's something that we highly respect, yet it's not something that's talked about so casually. Why?

It's a personal experience. You do it by yourself, for yourself. I'm not talking about the time you had to scramble up to get a stuck rope because you had to. I mean when you set out to "solo" intentionally just for the rush, the headgame, the feeling of self-awarenesss. Sure, it can be personally constructive but it means absolutely nothing to anyone else but you. Kind of like masturbation. You don't talk about that, do you?

It can be self-destructive. If you brag about it, I'm afraid you're doing it out of ego. Don't let your ego incite you to solo for glory! Keep it to yourself and make sure it's not about that.

It can be destructive to others. People are curious apes. If you brag about how you soloed something and it was an earth-shattering experience, someone else is going to try it on your word to see what it's all about. You don't want to promote this idea in people who aren't self-realized enough to decide for themselves.

In addition to the last point, people are competitive apes. Soloing is not and should never be about competition with others. Don't talk about it lest you make it seem that way.

Finally and perhaps most importantly, it's not something that anyone wants to see or have any sort of involvement when something does go wrong. How do you think your friends will feel after your death when they think that they could have stopped you? If you're going to do it, don't implicate anyone else.

Bottom line: It's a matter of personal ettiquette not to talk about it.

Don't be so casual as to say that it's your "first." It implies that there will be a progression. Know yourself and know your reasons before you actively decide to do this, then do us all a favour and keep it to yourself.

Bingo...we have a winner! Johnny, tell him what he's won!


alpnclmbr1


Oct 7, 2003, 9:30 PM
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word!


hroldan


Oct 7, 2003, 9:51 PM
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roughster: Imposible for me to find better words to say that!. 8)

cardboarddog: don't get me wrong, ok for you but soloing has big consequences and that's the reason a lot of people will not encourage you or anybody else (and with good reason) to do it.

I see you don't have too many posts and I think you are kinda new on RC.com so welcome but don't be impressed that nobody will tend to cheer you up for a 5.3.

Just browse the posts and you'll see that everyone thinks diferent and will say or write what they think. Be open to that any time you start a post.


ricardol


Oct 7, 2003, 10:00 PM
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you guys are so full of sh*t ..

congrats on the solo dude -- have fun and be safe ..

.. so many vocal people on this site are safety nazis .. they dont respect that everyone has different levels of acceptable risk ..

.. soloing is a personal choice, and yes most people get very weirded out when you talk about it .. but thats their problem .. -- it doesn't get any pure than a climb without a rope. -- i've yet to commit 100% to that .. on my solo's i've always brought the gear to aid through the crux moves. (A0)

-- ricardo


flamer


Oct 7, 2003, 10:09 PM
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In reply to:
Ok, I'll bite. The bait looks fresh.

Soloing is taboo. It's something that we highly respect, yet it's not something that's talked about so casually. Why?

It's a personal experience. You do it by yourself, for yourself. I'm not talking about the time you had to scramble up to get a stuck rope because you had to. I mean when you set out to "solo" intentionally just for the rush, the headgame, the feeling of self-awarenesss. Sure, it can be personally constructive but it means absolutely nothing to anyone else but you. Kind of like masturbation. You don't talk about that, do you?

It can be self-destructive. If you brag about it, I'm afraid you're doing it out of ego. Don't let your ego incite you to solo for glory! Keep it to yourself and make sure it's not about that.

It can be destructive to others. People are curious apes. If you brag about how you soloed something and it was an earth-shattering experience, someone else is going to try it on your word to see what it's all about. You don't want to promote this idea in people who aren't self-realized enough to decide for themselves.

In addition to the last point, people are competitive apes. Soloing is not and should never be about competition with others. Don't talk about it lest you make it seem that way.

Finally and perhaps most importantly, it's not something that anyone wants to see or have any sort of involvement when something does go wrong. How do you think your friends will feel after your death when they think that they could have stopped you? If you're going to do it, don't implicate anyone else.

Bottom line: It's a matter of personal ettiquette not to talk about it.

Don't be so casual as to say that it's your "first." It implies that there will be a progression. Know yourself and know your reasons before you actively decide to do this, then do us all a favour and keep it to yourself.

What ever you say, PU$$Y!!!
I've got news for you, PEOPLE DIE. People die everyday in every possible way. So what? You all cling to life, WHY? You can do everythihng as safe as you want and you will still die, maybe even "before your time".
What did it get you? DEAD!!!
Competition in soloing? HELL YEAH! My buddies and I swap times on speed solo's all the time...it's fun we enjoy it.
Personal etiquette? Who's; yours? Guess what if you don't like hearing about it tough $h1T!! Why did you click on this thread? Did you need to protect your "curious apes"??
You are correct soloing is a deeply personal thing and that include's talking about it, if you so desire.
We all make our own choice's if you don't like someone else's- TOO BAD!!
cardboarddog: I enjoyed hearing about your first solo! I'm glad you enjoyed it!
HAVE FUN!!!
josh
Oh, and yes I do talk about masterbation....


sandbag


Oct 7, 2003, 10:15 PM
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Dont candy coat it and beat around the bush Josh, open up a little and let us see how you really feel about the issues.


squish


Oct 7, 2003, 10:24 PM
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In reply to:
you guys are so full of sh*t ..

congrats on the solo dude -- have fun and be safe ..

.. so many vocal people on this site are safety nazis .. they dont respect that everyone has different levels of acceptable risk ..

.. soloing is a personal choice, and yes most people get very weirded out when you talk about it .. but thats their problem .. -- it doesn't get any pure than a climb without a rope. -- i've yet to commit 100% to that .. on my solo's i've always brought the gear to aid through the crux moves. (A0)
Your reply misses my point completely and contradicts itself in so many places that I don't know where to start.

I'm not against soloing and I'm not a safety nazi. I've soloed enough to have an opinion, and I'm not against it.

I take issue with the attitude that the original poster seems to have towards soloing. Yeah, it's only 5.3, what's the big deal, right? Attitude. Being too casual about it is a big deal, IMHO, and looking for recognition and praise in soloing doesn't look healthy.

I never said "don't do it you're gonna die." I don't think I even raised the word "dangerous" or "unsafe" in my entire post, because that is not the point. Don't be daft. We all know what the game is about, and nobody was disputing that it's a personal choice. I was responding to those who were arguing about whether or not one should kiss-and-tell their solo experiences.


elvislegs


Oct 7, 2003, 10:25 PM
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I'm sick of you little PU$$y's whining about soloing.
"WAAA! Don't Talk about soloing!!"
"WAAA! Did it say you could die?"
"WAAA! Don't solo you might get hurt! Or GASP! DIE"
If you Don't like it don't do it. If you're scared don't do it!


Don't Tell me or any other soloist's how to live our life!!
josh

Tell em. heh
Nice post Flamer.


squish


Oct 7, 2003, 10:27 PM
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What ever you say, PU$$Y!!!
...
Oh, and yes I do talk about masterbation....
Anyone care to get Freudian with flamer's post?

Boy, that was funny!


ricardol


Oct 7, 2003, 10:38 PM
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i was directing my post to those who thought talking about soloing was taboo .. not anyone in particular ..

.. i dont see the contradictions in my post -- i said it was personal -- nothing new there .. and that it weirded people out .. but thats their problem .. i am not responsible for how you or anyone else on this site feels ...

-- ricardo

In reply to:
In reply to:
you guys are so full of sh*t ..

congrats on the solo dude -- have fun and be safe ..

.. so many vocal people on this site are safety nazis .. they dont respect that everyone has different levels of acceptable risk ..

.. soloing is a personal choice, and yes most people get very weirded out when you talk about it .. but thats their problem .. -- it doesn't get any pure than a climb without a rope. -- i've yet to commit 100% to that .. on my solo's i've always brought the gear to aid through the crux moves. (A0)
Your reply misses my point completely and contradicts itself in so many places that I don't know where to start.

I'm not against soloing and I'm not a safety nazi. I've soloed enough to have an opinion, and I'm not against it.

I take issue with the attitude that the original poster seems to have towards soloing. Yeah, it's only 5.3, what's the big deal, right? Attitude. Being too casual about it is a big deal, IMHO, and looking for recognition and praise in soloing doesn't look healthy.

I never said "don't do it you're gonna die." I don't think I even raised the word "dangerous" or "unsafe" in my entire post, because that is not the point. Don't be daft. We all know what the game is about, and nobody was disputing that it's a personal choice. I was responding to those who were arguing about whether or not one should kiss-and-tell their solo experiences.


ricardol


Oct 7, 2003, 10:39 PM
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oh -- and

rock on flamer .. that was a great response..


jcinco


Oct 7, 2003, 10:59 PM
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I can't recommend soloing but it is a vital part of the climbing universe and always will be. A blanket statement like, "soloing is stupid" is completely off-base. Its all about your personal comfort level as well as having a thorough understanding of your abilities and limits.

Heck, non-climbers are going to think people who climb class 3 scrambling routes without a rope are crazy and asking for death... just climb a non-standard route on a 14er with an easy walk-up on a busy summer weekend and you'll see what I mean. So what's so stupid about a 5.11 trad climber onsight soloing 5.8, especially at a climbing area with little loose rock where you have the style wired? Since a climber with that ability probably hasn't fallen at that grade since their first month of climbing, it becomes a mind game... more a well calculated test of mental sharpness than anything. Risky, yes (but what worthwhile endeavor isn't?). Stupid, no.

The really dangerous (some may even say stupid) part comes in when you are soloing near your limit. This is the trick with soloing. As you gain more experience, this type of soloing becomes more and more seductive. It is this type of soloing which has led to virtually all soloing accidents, as well as the deaths of some very high profile climbers.

In reply to:
.. on my solo's i've always brought the gear to aid through the crux moves. (A0)

This seems to me like a pretty good example. If you are soloing routes where you need gear to yard through the cruxes, then you are probably soloing dangerously close to your limit. I'll leave it at that...


couch_climber


Oct 7, 2003, 11:00 PM
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Nice job on the solo. In my opinion the purest form of climbing.

Be safe.


braon


Oct 7, 2003, 11:01 PM
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In reply to:

In reply to:

Not impressed. Driving is more dangerous than soloing 5.3. Who falls on 5.3?


A 5.2 climber.

Will you guys stop making fun of me already? :cry: :cry:


nagatana


Oct 7, 2003, 11:09 PM
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When people say "solo," do they mean that the climbed the route alone, or does it mean that they did it alone and without gear?


ricardol


Oct 7, 2003, 11:10 PM
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In reply to:

In reply to:
.. on my solo's i've always brought the gear to aid through the crux moves. (A0)

This seems to me like a pretty good example. If you are soloing routes where you need gear to yard through the cruxes, then you are probably soloing dangerously close to your limit. I'll leave it at that...

.. well without being there .. its easy to judge why someone does something .. maybe i brught it for insurance .. maybe in case i decided to rest .. or maybe i'm just not ready to commit 100% to the solo .. and just want to solo everything else but the crux ..

.. the gear placements is A1 .. bomber .. so no danger on pulling on a piece to get through the 5.6 move ..

.. the best thing somene has said about soloing on this thread is that its a test of knowing yourself and your limits .. and being able to judge your level of commitment at that moment.

-- ricardo


nagatana


Oct 7, 2003, 11:11 PM
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Is "solo" generally meant as "free solo" 'round here, or does he just mean alone?


alpnclmbr1


Oct 7, 2003, 11:14 PM
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Cardboarddog
Been climbing for three months and doesn’t have a clue about what’s what. In the real world your solo would be an obligatory solo downclimb.

Ricardol
Apparently hasn’t ever free soloed a route. (if you have gear with you your not soloing)

Squish
A voice of reason that sounds like it is based on some real experience in the topic of this debate.


Flamer
Talks like a big shit but given his attitude I would have to say he doesn’t solo very much other then mabye speed soloing 5.0D Squish made a lot of very valid points which obviously went right over your head. "Competitive free soloing" on anything harder then a downclimb is idiotic and pretty much a self correcting idiocy as you will soon be dead.




By far the biggest trick to free soloing is keeping your motivations straight. This is true in the beginning and becomes even more important as you progress down that path. The "taboo" does get overdone on this site to a certain extent, but there is an aspect of it that is based on realistic experiences from people who have been there done that.


A comment to all the people that say they would never solo because it is to dangerous: your friggin deluding yourself because everyone who rock climbs free solo’s. Dragging a rope along doesn’t change the reality that sometimes the protection it offers is just an illusion..


johnnord


Oct 7, 2003, 11:29 PM
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I have mixed feelings about soloing. When I was younger I would do some in front of even younger climbers. Obviously an immature ego thing. I watch with envy as soloists pass me on Walk on the Wild Side in JTree. I fantasize soloing it myself and then see myself smearing off the 5.8 crux move 100 feet above the deck. It's obviously not for me.
What I am clear about is "talking about it." This is where a climber can talk about any climbing issue. The only dangers are the ignorant and the flamers. However, there are more than enough knowledgeable and compassionate participants to balance that out. This is a forum for the exchange of ideas about climbing. There should be no taboos. If it were a forum about sexuality, masterbation would be an ok topic too.


ricardol


Oct 7, 2003, 11:34 PM
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In reply to:
Ricardol
Apparently hasn’t ever free soloed a route. (if you have gear with you your not soloing)
..

.. umm -- good thing i dont need you to validate my climbing ..

-- ricardo


alpinerock


Oct 7, 2003, 11:53 PM
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congratulations, if you want to free solo routes that is a personal decesion, all I'll say is that i've done it and it has been on of the most powerful experiances of my life, beware of it it's addicting, and never recomend it to someone else, it is their desicion


corpse


Oct 7, 2003, 11:58 PM
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Personally, FOR ME, I think free-soloing is dumb - FOR ME. I have response for all levels of climbing. In some ways, I wish I had the cajones (or stupidness, depending who you ask) to freesolo or something. For me, the highest level of risk I'm willing to take is trad climbing. I don't see anything wrong with him "spraying" about his first solo. I don't consider it spraying. Good thing I didn't post in the public forum on my first lead, cuz 1/2 of you would have bashed me.

And if someone that is dumb figures that free-soloing is for them based on what someone SAYS, then they deserve what they get. People need to learn about things and educate themselves before they get into smething. And for freesoloing, it's pretty simple - you climb - and if you fall - you die. As long as that is understood, leave people be.

I don't think his friends are gonna "stop" him. Is that like how our parents tried "stopping" us from our underage drinking? puh-leeze!! They lectured and badgered, and those are usually the parents that had to clean the puke off their living room floor cuz their kid came home blasted :) (cept my dad made me clean it up after I was done puking, I soooo didn't like that).

Oh yeah, if like, I went to the supermarket, went to the produce isle and slipped her my cucumber, would I be spraying? hell yeah.. But rightly so, becuase I'd be way proud of myself :)


cardboarddog


Oct 8, 2003, 12:03 AM
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In reply to:
Cardboarddog
Been climbing for three months and doesn’t have a clue about what’s what. In the real world your solo would be an obligatory solo downclimb.

Ricardol
Apparently hasn’t ever free soloed a route. (if you have gear with you your not soloing)

Squish
A voice of reason that sounds like it is based on some real experience in the topic of this debate.


Flamer
Talks like a big s--- but given his attitude I would have to say he doesn’t solo very much other then mabye speed soloing 5.0D Squish made a lot of very valid points which obviously went right over your head. "Competitive free soloing" on anything harder then a downclimb is idiotic and pretty much a self correcting idiocy as you will soon be dead.




By far the biggest trick to free soloing is keeping your motivations straight. This is true in the beginning and becomes even more important as you progress down that path. The "taboo" does get overdone on this site to a certain extent, but there is an aspect of it that is based on realistic experiences from people who have been there done that.


A comment to all the people that say they would never solo because it is to dangerous: your friggin deluding yourself because everyone who rock climbs free solo’s. Dragging a rope along doesn’t change the reality that sometimes the protection it offers is just an illusion..



Ahh..the voice of reason. I remember taking a friend of mine climbing, horseman was his first, only to get to the bottom to find someone down climbing what I just climbed with about 7 pieces of protection. He was a much much stronger climber than I.

However, not at all the point. An obligatory down climb? I may be somewhat new, but I know enough to know that it is more mental perserverance than skill level. Can you lead at the same level you can second? Or TR? Yeah I didn't think so. Most climbers can't. I felt the need to overcome what is a mental block by getting past the fact that I had no protection even though I knew there was no way in hell I was going to fall. Thats why I posted. Because I did that.


thinksinpictures


Oct 8, 2003, 1:46 AM
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What ever you say, PU$$Y!!!
I've got news for you, PEOPLE DIE. People die everyday in every possible way. So what? You all cling to life, WHY? You can do everythihng as safe as you want and you will still die, maybe even "before your time".
What did it get you? DEAD!!!
Competition in soloing? HELL YEAH! My buddies and I swap times on speed solo's all the time...it's fun we enjoy it.
Personal etiquette? Who's; yours? Guess what if you don't like hearing about it tough $h1T!! Why did you click on this thread? Did you need to protect your "curious apes"??
You are correct soloing is a deeply personal thing and that include's talking about it, if you so desire.
We all make our own choice's if you don't like someone else's- TOO BAD!!
cardboarddog: I enjoyed hearing about your first solo! I'm glad you enjoyed it!
HAVE FUN!!!
josh
Oh, and yes I do talk about masterbation....

You know, I was of the opinion that soloing isn't something one should talk about in order to avoid encouraging less experienced/knowledgable climbers.

I've changed my mind--not due to persuasive arguments, mind you.

I believe that the best way to discourage soloing is to allow people like this to talk about it as much as they want.

More of a "this could happen to you" sort of thing.

Disclaimer: soloing is extremely dangerous and I highly discourage it. Unless you sound like this guy.


alpnclmbr1


Oct 8, 2003, 1:49 AM
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Ahh..the voice of reason. I remember taking a friend of mine climbing, horseman was his first, only to get to the bottom to find someone down climbing what I just climbed with about 7 pieces of protection. He was a much much stronger climber than I.

However, not at all the point. An obligatory down climb? I may be somewhat new, but I know enough to know that it is more mental perserverance than skill level. Can you lead at the same level you can second? Or TR? Yeah I didn't think so. Most climbers can't.

A basic rule of thumb for soloing is not to solo anything you cannot downclimb. All of my first solos were real or virtual obligatory downclimbs.
Agreed that soloing is a mental game not a physical one. One caveat to that is that sometimes people trip or break things off, a lot of mileage is the best thing to give yourself an earned sense of confidence that your not going to do this. The other thing is the risk of freaking out, guaranteed that at some point this will happen, probably with a rope on at first.

In reply to:
I felt the need to overcome what is a mental block by getting past the fact that I had no protection even though I knew there was no way in hell I was going to fall. Thats why I posted. Because I did that.

This is a good thing, really it is what is going to keep you safe in climbing, much more so than the gear. I just wouldn’t make a habit of it for a while.


flamer


Oct 8, 2003, 2:19 AM
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Flamer
Talks like a big s--- but given his attitude I would have to say he doesn’t solo very much other then mabye speed soloing 5.0D Squish made a lot of very valid points which obviously went right over your head. "Competitive free soloing" on anything harder then a downclimb is idiotic and pretty much a self correcting idiocy as you will soon be dead.

WOW! Do you know me?? Or are you just making generic assumption's because I'm passionate about the way I feel??
"Waaa....you'll be dead soon"
At least I lived first...
josh


flamer


Oct 8, 2003, 2:21 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
What ever you say, PU$$Y!!!
...
Oh, and yes I do talk about masterbation....
Anyone care to get Freudian with flamer's post?

Boy, that was funny!

Hmmm....since I called you a PU$$Y...does that mean I want to F**K you?
COME TOO DADDY, CREAMPUFF!
josh


sbclimber


Oct 8, 2003, 2:21 AM
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Its not what you do for living, its what you do to feel alive.
This one's going on the qouteboard.

Can't you see it now? One of those motivational posters with a picture of a guy soloing and this qoute below it. Brilliant!


flamer


Oct 8, 2003, 2:25 AM
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You know, I was of the opinion that soloing isn't something one should talk about in order to avoid encouraging less experienced/knowledgable climbers.

I've changed my mind--not due to persuasive arguments, mind you.

I believe that the best way to discourage soloing is to allow people like this to talk about it as much as they want.

More of a "this could happen to you" sort of thing.

Disclaimer: soloing is extremely dangerous and I highly discourage it. Unless you sound like this guy.

WOW you've been climbing for a little over a year now!!! Thanks for giving me the perfect opportunity to use my new internet slang term....STFU-NooB!!
I wonder will you even be climbing in a year? Or will you move on to the next cool thing....kisses
josh


alpnclmbr1


Oct 8, 2003, 3:15 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Flamer
Talks like a big s--- but given his attitude I would have to say he doesn’t solo very much other then mabye speed soloing 5.0D Squish made a lot of very valid points which obviously went right over your head. "Competitive free soloing" on anything harder then a downclimb is idiotic and pretty much a self correcting idiocy as you will soon be dead.

WOW! Do you know me?? Or are you just making generic assumption's because I'm passionate about the way I feel??
"Waaa....you'll be dead soon"
At least I lived first...
josh

No I don't know you, all I can do is base my conception of you on what you wrote in this thread. Based on that, I get the impression that you do not solo a lot as your attitude is totally contrary to the attitude of all the free soloers that I have known over the years.
Being passionate about soloing is something I can relate to. Your attitude isn't something I can relate to at all.


flamer


Oct 8, 2003, 3:47 AM
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No I don't know you, all I can do is base my conception of you on what you wrote in this thread. Based on that, I get the impression that you do not solo a lot as your attitude is totally contrary to the attitude of all the free soloers that I have known over the years.
Being passionate about soloing is something I can relate to. Your attitude isn't something I can relate to at all.

Nope never soloed a single pitch(you got me)....Just remember, not all climber's are silly little pussy's...
josh


fear


Oct 8, 2003, 4:30 AM
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You pu$$ies think soloing some easy 5.3 on a good day is any more dangerous than a million other climbing related feats? Leading multipitch thin WI 5+? Any one of a thousand run-out, crappy-rock, mixed alpine horrorfests?? Climbing 5.7+ above 6000m in plastic boots with a pack?

Comon. No one whines about those and they get all the press....

-Fear


dynoguy


Oct 8, 2003, 4:50 AM
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Having no soloing experience make of this what you will. I believe telling people that you solo is awfully inconsiderate. Hypothesize with me, lets say you are soloing and you get killed, a good possibility. Big deal right? You knew that risks and mentally calculated that the rewards were greater. No problem there. But now lets look at the loved ones left behind. They will all surely be left with a horrible sense of guilt. A "Maybe we should have stopped him" mentallity. That is something pretty tough to live with. Solo if you accept the risk and do it with the right motivation, but don't leave loved ones with the guilt.

I don't know if that makes any sense, just my two cents.


soretendons


Oct 8, 2003, 4:54 AM
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A short forty footer? If that was a V11 it would be bouldering Evilution.


andypro


Oct 8, 2003, 5:49 AM
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Holy Crap. This thread got this long? The funny thing is that theres almost no substance to it. Just people bitching back and forth.

If you want to solo, jsut do it. but dont brag about it (which seems like what a few are doing here).

What's different about soloing than doing..say..an A4+ or A5 ascent, climbing an R/X trad route, heading to Patagonia in the winter, skiing friggin Everest, drytooling a pile of rocks barely frozen together with 10,000+ feet before you would stop rolling, and on and on and on.

Is any of that impure? I sure wouldn't say so.

I've noticed alot of "noobs" both talking about/asking about and trying free solo after it was glorified in Climbing not too long ago. I'm tlaking people who gym climb at 5.10+ after a month or two and think "theres no way in hell I'll fall on 5.7".

Go ahead. to each thier own. But tell Darwin and Uemura Naomi I said hi. (hows that for history trivia :wink: )


sharpender


Oct 8, 2003, 7:46 AM
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Cardboard dog
In reply to:
Right, it's been covered over and over already if you had bothered to read others posts.
But just a little something, I know I'm cool as hell, and I know I'm f^&ckin' rad, but I don't need to jazz people on a message board to prove it. Kinda the same thing as spraying, don't cha think?
_________________
he daydreams of possums and having sex with a frog.

Are you old enough to spell contradiction let alone define it? Plus ya got weird daydreams. 8)


sharpender


Oct 8, 2003, 8:01 AM
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Deleted see below :arrow:


sharpender


Oct 8, 2003, 8:03 AM
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flamer
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Hmmm....since I called you a PU$$Y...does that mean I want to F**K you?
COME TOO DADDY, CREAMPUFF!

Guess so, you flamer you! :lol:


squish


Oct 8, 2003, 12:11 PM
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What I am clear about is "talking about it." This is where a climber can talk about any climbing issue. The only dangers are the ignorant and the flamers. However, there are more than enough knowledgeable and compassionate participants to balance that out. This is a forum for the exchange of ideas about climbing. There should be no taboos. If it were a forum about sexuality, masterbation would be an ok topic too.

Sure we can talk about the "issue." We can sit here and bicker about soloing all week. I'm cool with that.

What made me speak out against this thread was what looked conspicuously like spray. Soloing and spray don't mix, and that's the taboo I was talking about--you just don't brag about it. I threw out a few reasons why. Maybe my post was a bit one-dimensional, but there's still a valid argument in there.

Soloing is a worthy issue for discussion, but on the other hand I cringe to see any more of these kind of "my first solo" threads. Cardboard, please read your original post and tell me that it doesn't come across as some kid playing with a loaded gun. You responded later and gave some more depth to your views, but my first impression was that you were looking for some kind of validation. Sorry, wasn't gonna give it to you.

If you choose to solo, it's your own thing. Don't ask anyone to watch and don't expect anyone to cheer you on. Kind of like... (Haven't we worn out that analogy by now?)

I have other questions on this topic that I'd like to lay down, but I just can't spit it all out right now. It has something to do with why I'm blown away with awe reading far out solo stories from Walter Bonatti, Reinholdt Messner, Tomaz Humar or Peter Croft, yet I cringe at reading someone's "my first solo." Is it a double standard? Maybe someone else can make the next cut and figure that one out. I need sleep.


ajkclay


Oct 8, 2003, 2:33 PM
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:? It didn't seem like spray to me......

Just talking about a new experience doesn't rate as spray, you losers. Spray involves bragging about (and generally exaggerating) your abilities in order to tell others how good you are. Saying "this was my first experience at......., and this is how I felt" doesn't really fit the bill. If you think his mentioning the grade justifies the tag, then maybe you are a little insecure about your own abilities, and how 5.3 fits in with what you can do. It was obvious that he was saying that he chose a grade that he thought was unlikely to be too dangerous for his abilities, thereby indicating that his decision was not overly irresponsible in relation to his abilities. That is pretty much what grades do, tell us whether a route is something that is likely to be within our abilities, or what sort of challenge it will present so that we can make a judgement about the appropriateness of the style we intend to climb it in.

There are a ton of posts along the lines of "my first [trad], [multipitch], [sport], [time]" but no one says that they are spraying or shouldn't talk about it. So why do we not want to hear about someone's first solo?

Here's a thought: People solo, lots of people solo, it is a legitimate form of climbing for many. Now try to keep up, it gets a little tricky here... everyone who solos did it for the first time once. So, why shouldn't he talk about his experience? When can he talk about his experience? Did anyone criticise Dean Potter for talking to Climbing about the first time he soloed Astroman? What firsts can't we talk about? What firsts can we talk about? How many solo ascents should one do before they can even mention the fact that they solo? Does that rule apply to other forms of climbing?

Many of you say that soloing is dangerous, and that people who solo should not expect anyone to watch, or be around while they do. You D!ckheads!! You tell someone that soloing is dangerous, then tell them to ignore one of the most fundamental rules of climbing: Make sure there is someone around just in case there is an accident!

This is a climbing forum, where people come to talk about their experiences climbing.

Soloing is climbing.

Too dangerous to mention?

So cardboard was wanting to talk about a new experience climbing.... I missed the point where it says on this site that soloing is too dangerous to talk about, so we should sweep it under the carpet.

To a large number of people out there climbing is a dangerous and irresponsible pursuit, they would express similar sentiments towards those of you who criticise cardboard about the way you climb and probably think you are being [insert your criticism here].

Now, this thread was hijacked a long time ago by the flamelords. The best way to get rid of them is to treat them like you would a troll: do not feed them.

So, back on track.

Cardboard, that's great to hear about your first solo, where was it, and what type of route was it? How do you feel about it now? Are you looking at any other routes? Did you learn anything about yourself, or your climbing?
:)

Adam


helmut


Oct 8, 2003, 5:38 PM
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If you need to solo (or climb) to feel alive, then you are already dead.


sharpender


Oct 8, 2003, 6:28 PM
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Cardboard, that's great to hear about your first solo, where was it, and what type of route was it? How do you feel about it now? Are you looking at any other routes? Did you learn anything about yourself, or your climbing?

Well if he had posted these things he would have been talking about his experience, but he likened it to being drunk. Not to good a thing to be soloing. He essentially said it impaired him cause that's what drunk is - impaired. Kids talk like that "Man, I was sooo drunk..."

Yike :roll:


on_sight_man


Oct 8, 2003, 8:39 PM
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Soloing is not something that should be talked about. Do it if you want to, enjoy the feeling, think hard about it, and then be quiet...

Actually, I just thought it wasn't cool to either give or get feedback from complete strangers about it. Cool in the sense of good style AND in the sense of good sense.

Can you get a T rating on a reply? What if I wasn't trying?


alpnclmbr1


Oct 8, 2003, 9:11 PM
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Many of you say that soloing is dangerous, and that people who solo should not expect anyone to watch, or be around while they do. You D!ckheads!! You tell someone that soloing is dangerous, then tell them to ignore one of the most fundamental rules of climbing: Make sure there is someone around just in case there is an accident!

Not having people around is one of the fundamental rules of free soloing.

If you think having someone around to pick up the pieces makes soloing safer then you shouldn’t be soloing.

If you are sure that you are screwed if you fuck up, then you’re less likely to get on something that is over your head.

The other aspect of this comes down to the motivation that leads you to solo a route. Having people around can lead you to want to showboat, I don’t care who you are or what you say, everyone has tendencies to do this. It is basic human nature. It is also something that can get you killed.

Along these lines are the people that solo with gear on for emergencies. If you feel the need for this you shouldn’t be on the route. Also having a rope hanging there or using a sling for a chalkbelt to tie yourself off in an emergency. In most cases, these things can remove a level of commitment and actually lead to more danger instead of less.


cardboarddog


Oct 8, 2003, 9:36 PM
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Okay, Squish - Yes, I probably should have reread my original post before starting a topic with it, but thanks for recognizing my other posts.

Sharpender, I'm probably several years older than you.

Adam - (hopefully this will also answer SEders other "i'm sooo drunk" post

It was 69 at the Gunks. I will probably definitely solo again, but like you guessed, I will probably not talk about accept to my climbing partner, who would be pissed right now, but hopefully won't be in a few months since he solos. I'm definitely not going to set out to solo. Something just told me to solo the f-in thing so I did. I almost lost my cool, but I just told myself to climb through it and when I did the experience was incredible, almost like being drunk, (high is lame cliche sharpender). Had I gone back down and tried it again I probably would not have made it through without needing to downclimb. Dude it was scary. But hopefully it won't always be.

I love to lead climb. Shit they make ropes why not use them. But I had to do it. Hope that makes sense to the angry nah-saying flamers.


cardboarddog


Oct 8, 2003, 9:40 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:

Many of you say that soloing is dangerous, and that people who solo should not expect anyone to watch, or be around while they do. You D!ckheads!! You tell someone that soloing is dangerous, then tell them to ignore one of the most fundamental rules of climbing: Make sure there is someone around just in case there is an accident!

Not having people around is one of the fundamental rules of free soloing.

If you think having someone around to pick up the pieces makes soloing safer then you shouldn’t be soloing.

If you are sure that you are screwed if you f--- up, then you’re less likely to get on something that is over your head.

The other aspect of this comes down to the motivation that leads you to solo a route. Having people around can lead you to want to showboat, I don’t care who you are or what you say, everyone has tendencies to do this. It is basic human nature. It is also something that can get you killed.

Along these lines are the people that solo with gear on for emergencies. If you feel the need for this you shouldn’t be on the route. Also having a rope hanging there or using a sling for a chalkbelt to tie yourself off in an emergency. In most cases, these things can remove a level of commitment and actually lead to more danger instead of less.

Oh, and I would never ask someone to be around if I was soloing, it has made me uncomfortable to watch only because of what can happen. And besides, how can you climb through something when you're freaked, if you know there;s someone there to bail you out?

Personally, if I was unsure even in the slightest, I would not have done it.


sharpender


Oct 8, 2003, 9:49 PM
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cardboarddog
In reply to:
I have been climbing for about 3 months now. Started off trad @ the Gunks and bouldering at places like Haycock. I love to climb and do as often as I can. I'm also a full time musician in an incredibly lazy, drunken band.

Alright man. Between this and your last post it makes sense that your partner, as you say, will be pissed at you for soloing.

Cardboard, I suspect I have children older than you. Wait, that might be grandchildren - actually only one of those, but still..... Why doesn't your partner, obviously more experienced than you not want you to solo?

Don't get me wrong, I am not against soloing, done a 5.3 myself. Whoopie.
You don't sound ready. Go boulder, go learn to lead, go learn to climb. Do you know what a ninety day wonder is? 8)


muncher


Oct 8, 2003, 10:49 PM
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If you need to solo (or climb) to feel alive, then you are already dead.

Well I guess there are alot of dead climbers around huh. If you can get the rush and feel content playing tiddly winks on the couch then that is great. Most of the climbers I know actually like the idea of being scared and learning how to deal with your fear, that is one of the best aspects of climbing, that feeling of being on the edge but pulling through.

Life does indeed get pretty empty when there is no fear. You can eventually get used to it but deep down you know you have become a boring old fart with nothing more to look forward to than talking about what you used to do when you weren't so lame.

There is nothing like getting yourself into a hairy situation where only you can get yourself out of. Be it climbing, surfing or whatever, those experiences are when I feel more alive than ever.


helmut


Oct 9, 2003, 8:49 PM
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muncher wrote:
Well I guess there are alot of dead climbers around huh.

Yep my point exactly. I know the "Woah, we almost died there, I feel so alive" type. It's pretty pathetic actually.


cardboarddog


Oct 9, 2003, 9:18 PM
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muncher wrote:
Well I guess there are alot of dead climbers around huh.

Yep my point exactly. I know the "Woah, we almost died there, I feel so alive" type. It's pretty pathetic actually.

I know right? Dude I f$%kin' hate people who don't see things my way.


billcoe_


Oct 13, 2003, 4:02 AM
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I tend to take the view that free soloing is crazy. But I'm a chickenshit at heart and thus do not regularly free solo as the thought generally scares the crap out of me. The first time I saw Bacher free soloing (must be 1982 or so) I was stunned by the boldness of it.

However: having said that, my best personal memory of Arapiles in Austraila was the 1300 foot easy class 5 (maybe a 5.5 crux at the top of the pinnacle) free solo that my 2 partners and I did together. Tiptoe ridge. It was F*en awesome. Not having the rope made a huge difference. If my tired legs had been co-operating I would have done it again right after getting back down.

Do it for yourself and don't worry about if you share it or not, soon enough all of us are dead anyway, nobody gets out alive.

Being a chickenshit myself as I said, I don't not want to rush that though, so I try to be very careful.

Edited for clarification:
For some reason, when you type chicken in front of the word shit, the chicken gets dropped. When did Chicken become a bad word? It evens dropps the "C". Seems like it should say Chi*kensh*t at least.


fear


Oct 13, 2003, 4:23 AM
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I was wondering. I thought you were calling yourself a sh!t.....


-Fear


tanner


Oct 13, 2003, 5:13 AM
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Calm down about this soloing thing. Its the most normal way to climb.

I remeber the first real rockclimb I did, it was probable no harder than an fir tree but about as tall. I was 11 riding my bike back from flyfishing in a nearby creek when I took notice of this chossy over grown cliff. It was the same cliff I had ridden past many times on my way to go fish, only this time I decided that it had to be climbed. So I stashed my bike, rod and fishing vest at the side of the road and climbed. I didn't "free solo" or "high ball" nor did I "fash", "redpoint" or "onsight." I just climbed, then content in my accomplesment I dusted off my hands and brushed the moss out of my hair and went home to cook up my trout.

Thats what climbing is about I think. The only thing diffrent now is I have a car and a rope.

An empoyer once said to me after inquiring about my weekend and my permanent grin "you climb, your crazy why would you risk you life like that, you could die!" He then went back to puffing on his ciggeret. I said to him "you know I was thinking the same about you, not about climbing but your a little crazy your self" He then snapped "what you think I'm crazy?" I said "well, you smoke, you know thats going to kill you..."

To each there own I supose.


watersprite


Oct 27, 2003, 10:58 PM
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the problem with adrenaline is that it takes more to get the high. apply that to free solo climbing and eventually you are going to find your limit. Unfortunately, that limit is absolute.
have you ever had the feeling that - oh shit, I almost lost it there - but you get a reprieve. that gives you an adrenaline rush- which you crave, and need more of.... until you reach maximum effectiveness/ run into your limit...
Falling is what happens when you reach your max. potential and nature ups the ante. and free soloing, you don't get a second chance.

that's all I'm saying - go on and do what you want with your fool selves.


telemarkist


Oct 27, 2003, 11:15 PM
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soloing is all about knowing your limits. I solo often but allways at well below my limits. does this make me crazy, I think not. know your sport, know your limits, know when to keep your opinions to yourself and let others do as they will.


junaid


Oct 28, 2003, 12:01 AM
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not that anyone will read this since this thread is so damn long, but a 5.3??

I think the approach to my crag is more than a 5.3, and we usually don't rope up for that. I guess I've soloed.

Seriously, though. I think those who solo have got something to prove. Mostly to themselves. I don't need to prove it so I use a rope. To me it is sort of like playing russian roulette (sp) to prove your not afraid. Now I rarely fall on any of the 5.9 climbs I do and not often on 5.10s (5.11c is the highest I've climbed for reference). I probably could solo a few of them, but risking my life, (or my permanent disability) to prove it to myself seems silly.


ep


Oct 28, 2003, 12:11 AM
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..


watersprite


Oct 28, 2003, 12:18 AM
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ok...


ep


Oct 28, 2003, 12:22 AM
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Junaid, you are also talking about just one type of person. People solo for more than one reason. It isn't Russian roulette if the odds of failure are 1 in 10^9. If you tried to solo something that you "rarely" fall on and think you could "probably" get away with it, then you would be playing Russian roulette. Consider that you probably take greater risks with your life on a regular basis than many soloists. Yep, driving that car down the interstate at 70 MPH is quite risky, especially on mountain roads at night, when you're tired, and maybe it's been raining. Turn the wheel just that much and you could be dead. But the odds are low enough that you accept them without much thought.


robmcc


Oct 28, 2003, 4:17 AM
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In reply to:
Do it for yourself and don't worry about if you share it or not, soon enough all of us are dead anyway, nobody gets out alive.

Speak for yourself. I plan on living forever. So far, it's working!


herm


Oct 30, 2003, 3:47 AM
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solo all you want, just don't blame anyone else if you get killed.....


chalker7


Oct 30, 2003, 4:20 AM
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if there's one thing i hate about soloing is the people who whine about it. if you dont solo or if you don't like to read about it then dont solo and dont read about it. if you want to solo then solo, and if you enjoy reading about the immense satisfaction of soloing someone feels then read about it. i havent soloed anything and probably wont for a long time if ever, so im not for or against it either way. i am all about shutting up the whiners and exercising a little bit of free speech. so tell me, what does it feel liek to solo, i want details, visuals, good solid descriptive writing. come on cardboarddog, tell me how ur first solo felt, i'd love to hear.


dingus


Oct 30, 2003, 4:43 AM
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I would submit to you my friends that it is not only appropriate to talk about free soloing it is vitally important to the health of our sport that we do so.

Information, honest information, THE TRUTH, should never never never be taboo. NEVER! Yet another form of Nannyism Censorship, the old 'we're doing it for your own good' bs. Well I don't buy it.

I have written a bit about soloing over the years, trip reports, short stories and musings such as this one. I've given it a lot of thought, looked at it from many different angles. I believe, punter that I am, I know a thing or two about ropeless climbing and I also believe I possess the wit and skill to relate that experience.

On general principle of free thinking people, people of free will for Zeus's sake!, the notion to suppress the topic of free soloing should be rejected outright. Accept nothing but the unfettered truth in your climbing. Gravity can't be lied to.

But when you speak of soloing, speak the WHOLE truth. For when we examine the well from which these impulses rise, we often find there are monsters lurking in our own closets. And death is the reward for a mistake.

DMT


squish


Oct 30, 2003, 6:22 AM
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In reply to:
I would submit to you my friends that it is not only appropriate to talk about free soloing it is vitally important to the health of our sport that we do so.

Information, honest information, THE TRUTH, should never never never be taboo. NEVER! Yet another form of Nannyism Censorship, the old 'we're doing it for your own good' bs. Well I don't buy it.

I have written a bit about soloing over the years, trip reports, short stories and musings such as this one. I've given it a lot of thought, looked at it from many different angles. I believe, punter that I am, I know a thing or two about ropeless climbing and I also believe I possess the wit and skill to relate that experience.

On general principle of free thinking people, people of free will for Zeus's sake!, the notion to suppress the topic of free soloing should be rejected outright. Accept nothing but the unfettered truth in your climbing. Gravity can't be lied to.

But when you speak of soloing, speak the WHOLE truth. For when we examine the well from which these impulses rise, we often find there are monsters lurking in our own closets. And death is the reward for a mistake.

I respect all of that. Well said.

After I posted what I wrote earlier in this thread, I realized that I'm kind of torn on what I wrote. I think I later said that I have great admiration for the great soloists of climbing history and the stories they have to tell, but there's just something about this thread that rubs me wrong.

The sentiment behind that post came more as a response to the cluelessness behind the original "makes me feel drunk" post. It's not that I really have a problem with talking openly about free soloing, it's just that I feel that it deserves a little more respect.

I wasn't trying for nanny censorship. More like, get a clue before you go off telling clueless people about how to get killed. You sir, emphatically have that clue.


mreardon


Oct 31, 2003, 7:12 PM
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In reply to:
the problem with adrenaline is that it takes more to get the high. apply that to free solo climbing and eventually you are going to find your limit. Unfortunately, that limit is absolute.
have you ever had the feeling that - oh s---, I almost lost it there - but you get a reprieve. that gives you an adrenaline rush- which you crave, and need more of.... until you reach maximum effectiveness/ run into your limit...
Falling is what happens when you reach your max. potential and nature ups the ante. and free soloing, you don't get a second chance.

that's all I'm saying - go on and do what you want with your fool selves.

Most who solo also know their limits. Everyone comments about the climbs we've done, but almost no one seems to remember how many times we have all walked up to a wall, gone up one or two moves, then backed off. It's not purely about adrenaline, and anyone who thinks it to be that, deserves the fate and insecurity that will come. In all my soloing, I've rarely gone up something I couldn't climb down, and it has almost always been well within onsight territory. That's not adrenaline, it's something far cleaner and difficult for anyone else to understand.


mreardon


Oct 31, 2003, 7:18 PM
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In reply to:
If you need to solo (or climb) to feel alive, then you are already dead.

If you need to go online giving bumper sticker slogans that make the Wachowski's appear brilliant, you are... Well, it's pretty self-explanatory.


freudian


Oct 31, 2003, 8:15 PM
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Soloing is a personal choice. Within my small group of climbing partners... most of us will just for some reason feel like soloing somthing. It feels very good. It also increases our "Lead Head" so that we're not as scared leading. Generally we don't solo anything near our peak grade, since we don't wanna die. I have soloed 5.6, while my peak ability is just about at 5.11a top rope / 5.8 trad lead.

I read in the mags and see in the movies about people free soloing and how glorious it is. It is 'glorious' if you live and aren't doing it just to wow your audience or get into a magazine. It's a very personal thing to do when your mind ready. I don't think mags and movies should glorify free soloing.

My 2c.


watersprite


Oct 31, 2003, 8:22 PM
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oh well, then I just could never understand why guys free solo stuff. nevermind, I dont' care anymore!


cardboarddog


Oct 2, 2011, 7:18 PM
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Michael i couldn't agree more. BTW .. you were a great climber in your time. The fact that you got taken out by a rogue wave is disheartening to say the least. If you makes you feel any better, John Bachar died a few years after you on a climb he had soloed a hundred times. Who knew? My point is .. people who think they have the right to offer their opinion should STFU and suck my balls. I'm always right.


cardboarddog


Oct 2, 2011, 7:20 PM
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[quote "mreardon"][quote]the problem with adrenaline is that it takes more to get the high. apply that to free solo climbing and eventually you are going to find your limit. Unfortunately, that limit is absolute.
have you ever had the feeling that - oh s---, I almost lost it there - but you get a reprieve. that gives you an adrenaline rush- which you crave, and need more of.... until you reach maximum effectiveness/ run into your limit...
Falling is what happens when you reach your max. potential and nature ups the ante. and free soloing, you don't get a second chance.

that's all I'm saying - go on and do what you want with your fool selves.[/quote]

Most who solo also know their limits. Everyone comments about the climbs we've done, but almost no one seems to remember how many times we have all walked up to a wall, gone up one or two moves, then backed off. It's not purely about adrenaline, and anyone who thinks it to be that, deserves the fate and insecurity that will come. In all my soloing, I've rarely gone up something I couldn't climb down, and it has almost always been well within onsight territory. That's not adrenaline, it's something far cleaner and difficult for anyone else to understand.[/quote]



actually this is the post I meant to quote .. but i agree with the other one as well. Keep your office poster wisdom to yourself knob slobberer.


ablanchard17


Oct 2, 2011, 11:44 PM
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Ok.


6pacfershur


Oct 2, 2011, 11:54 PM
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cardboarddog wrote:
Michael i couldn't agree more. BTW .. you were a great climber in your time. The fact that you got taken out by a rogue wave is disheartening to say the least. If you makes you feel any better, John Bachar died a few years after you on a climb he had soloed a hundred times. Who knew? My point is .. people who think they have the right to offer their opinion should STFU and suck my balls. I'm always right.

why are you responding to a post thats almost 8 years old? just wondering....


cardboarddog


Oct 3, 2011, 2:26 AM
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because that was Michael Reardon and he's not alive anymore. Figured the least I could do was respond to his post.


jt512


Oct 3, 2011, 2:52 AM
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cardboarddog wrote:
because that was Michael Reardon and he's not alive anymore. Figured the least I could do was respond to his post.

In other words, you're as much an idiot now as you were eight years ago.

Jay


cardboarddog


Oct 3, 2011, 10:34 PM
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It's a troll, tard. A very successful one at that. But thanks for your input.


PosiDave


Oct 3, 2011, 10:44 PM
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If you read almost all consensus and data of Fatalies and injuries related to climbing and soloing you will notice something. Anything route intended to solo normally results in a low injury and death percentage. most deaths are caused by beginners and soloing areas not intended (4th class or low 5 off of routes).

If you don't want to solo then don't You have the same chance as injury or death as everyone climbing. I don't judge you not soloing.

Before I ever thought I would solo. I was told a rather good conclusion by two members of Yosar and rather big names. "Everyone wants to climb pure and everyone climbs because in some form it shows you are a "badass". People bitch about soloing because they don't have the courage, skill, or guts to rely strictly on just them.

OI didn't take it as a shit talk that I wouldn't solo. But if you are gonna bitch realize that just like people don't want to climb at all because it is pointless. You are being just like them by concluding soloing is dumb and careless. There is no percentage you can put there that people soloing with that intent die or are injured more often.


lazymonkey


Oct 4, 2011, 11:44 AM
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[quote "herm"]I rarely fall on cruxes, it's almost always the class 2 that will get you. Soloing doesn't ever stop; once you start, you realize that you are never more than a toe-hold away from eternity. You will spend the rest of your life getting gripped in parkinglots and on buses, because you know that if you ever lose control, anywhere, not just on a climb, then it's all over. If you swallow that chip wrong, look out. Pay attention. Watch your feet.
Keep your hands at 2:00 and 10:00. Keep an eye on the weather. It's easy to prepare for the cruxes, it's the slog in between where it lurks, waiting for you to become distracted.....

Maybe best to never solo and stay normal...[/quote]


awesome post


sungam


Oct 4, 2011, 8:43 PM
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cardboarddog wrote:
It's a drunk post I'm trying to pass off as a troll, like a tard. A very unsuccessful one at that. But thanks for your input.

It's okay, it happens to everyone once in a while. Smile


jjones16


Oct 14, 2011, 8:22 PM
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One day I'll be able to pull a route solo on the first try. For now though, I'm just happy redpointing them.


notapplicable


Oct 14, 2011, 8:49 PM
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jjones16 wrote:
One day I'll be able to pull a route solo on the first try. For now though, I'm just happy redpointing them.

You should be proud of you accomplishments. We've talked about this before and decided that redpoint freesoloing is one of the more badass styles of climbing.


flamer


Nov 2, 2011, 10:41 PM
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Ugh.
I kind of wish this thread had stayed buried. I must have been angry at something 8 years ago, I'm happy I don't remember what.
Like most things my views have softened over time.

I still firmly believe that soloing is personal and each person should decide for themself if they want to solo or not. Also talking about soloing is neither right nor wrong, purely up to the individual.
Telling people why they should or should not solo is lame. Looking for justification to solo is also lame.

Even more lame is running around on the internet calling random people pu$$ies.

Since this thread was orginally started I've soloed hundreds of pitchs. They've been some of my best days in the mountains. Every single one of those solos I did for me.
Most of them were cruiser, as they should be, a couple of times they were alittle too close to the edge and I was somewhat lucky to pull them off. In both situations I learned alot about myself.

I'm still here, I'm still soloing.
Mostly I'm just trying to live and have fun...and not worry about too much.

Cheers,

josh


sp115


Nov 3, 2011, 12:34 PM
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flamer wrote:
Ugh.
I kind of wish this thread had stayed buried. I must have been angry at something 8 years ago, I'm happy I don't remember what.
Like most things my views have softened over time.

I still firmly believe that soloing is personal and each person should decide for themself if they want to solo or not. Also talking about soloing is neither right nor wrong, purely up to the individual.
Telling people why they should or should not solo is lame. Looking for justification to solo is also lame.

Even more lame is running around on the internet calling random people pu$$ies.

Since this thread was orginally started I've soloed hundreds of pitchs. They've been some of my best days in the mountains. Every single one of those solos I did for me.
Most of them were cruiser, as they should be, a couple of times they were alittle too close to the edge and I was somewhat lucky to pull them off. In both situations I learned alot about myself.

I'm still here, I'm still soloing.
Mostly I'm just trying to live and have fun...and not worry about too much.

Cheers,

josh

Couldn't agree more with Josh, in the history of stupid thread resurrections this has to be the worst. In fact with the passing of Michael Reardon, it's completely inappropriate and disrespectful.


KevinHecka


Feb 22, 2012, 8:23 PM
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[quote "stuck"]Soloing is awesome. It's the purest form of climbing. The more dangerous the better. Just do a couple of laps with a rope on, untie and dial that sucker.

Most hardcore climbers practice this form of climbing and you'll notice that they are also the ones who are popular and realing in the ladies.[/quote]

Yeah...imagine all the hot chicks weeping at the funeral [cool]

Nothing wrong with soloing, nothing wrong with talking about it either. Lots of bold climbers, lots old climbers...not too many old bold climbers though.

K.


shockabuku


Feb 23, 2012, 5:23 AM
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KevinHecka wrote:
[quote "stuck"]Soloing is awesome. It's the purest form of climbing. The more dangerous the better. Just do a couple of laps with a rope on, untie and dial that sucker.

Most hardcore climbers practice this form of climbing and you'll notice that they are also the ones who are popular and realing in the ladies.[/quote]

Yeah...imagine all the hot chicks weeping at the funeral [cool]

Nothing wrong with soloing, nothing wrong with talking about it either. Lots of bold climbers, lots old climbers...not too many old bold climbers though.

K.

You waited eight months to make your first post and you chose a cliche. I don't understand this juxtaposition.


marc801


Feb 23, 2012, 6:47 AM
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shockabuku wrote:
You waited eight months to make your first post and you chose a cliche. I don't understand this juxtaposition.
+1
What's more, a cliche that isn't actually true.


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