|
psychopsilocybin
Oct 20, 2003, 7:15 PM
Post #1 of 32
(3856 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 15, 2002
Posts: 43
|
I know it is someones opinon on which is better but i would like to know what people like. Do you like the regular ATC or do you go for an automatic stopping device like the Gri Gri?
|
|
|
|
|
cthcrockclimber
Oct 20, 2003, 7:19 PM
Post #2 of 32
(3856 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 16, 2003
Posts: 1007
|
Personal preference and the type of application. do a search
|
|
|
|
|
mike_hunt
Oct 20, 2003, 7:19 PM
Post #3 of 32
(3856 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 17, 2003
Posts: 42
|
What does a nursing home smell like?
DEPENDS
|
|
|
|
|
andypro
Oct 20, 2003, 7:23 PM
Post #4 of 32
(3856 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 23, 2003
Posts: 1077
|
Ok...I'm bored...I'll give a REAL response :roll:
I usually use an ATC. If I'm toproping and working a routeor doing some TR solo or soemthing, I'll use my Gri Gri. I'm really interested in the TRE though (I think it's distributed by PMI here in the states maybe?). If it's anywhere as neat and versatile as the ads and others say, I may have to chuck everyhting else.
|
|
|
|
|
climbinmike
Oct 20, 2003, 7:35 PM
Post #5 of 32
(3856 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 28, 2003
Posts: 7
|
I can tell which one not to use and thats the Metolius BRD. I just bought it at random after dropping my BD ATC about 50 feet when taking down top.
|
|
|
|
|
strongbad
Oct 20, 2003, 8:00 PM
Post #6 of 32
(3856 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 13, 2003
Posts: 802
|
In reply to: What does a nursing home smell like? DEPENDS
That's hilarious. But I hear they are switch to "Oops I crapped my pants"
|
|
|
|
|
katydid
Oct 20, 2003, 8:00 PM
Post #7 of 32
(3856 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 13, 2002
Posts: 3212
|
I've been using an ATC (and occasionally a GriGri) since I started climbing last year. This weekend, however, I bought a Reverso, and I am in LOOOOOOVE with both its friction and its smoothness (nb: I have yet to belay someone on doubles with it).
YMMV, though. Try a bunch and see what you like the best. Hit up people you know and ask them to use their belay device for the day. There are scads of devices out there, and people's personal opinions vary pretty wildly about what's "best".
k.
|
|
|
|
|
arrettinator
Oct 20, 2003, 8:49 PM
Post #8 of 32
(3856 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 30, 2002
Posts: 8522
|
When in doubt, use the good old fashion Tree belay.
|
|
|
|
|
pico23
Oct 20, 2003, 10:52 PM
Post #9 of 32
(3856 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 14, 2003
Posts: 2378
|
In reply to: I know it is someones opinon on which is better but i would like to know what people like. Do you like the regular ATC or do you go for an automatic stopping device like the Gri Gri?
Do a search. Its been covered at least once a month.
|
|
|
|
|
lollipopchic
Oct 21, 2003, 9:59 AM
Post #10 of 32
(3856 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 9, 2003
Posts: 183
|
I have an ATC, XTC, reverso and gri-gri. I find the gri-gri is great when top-roping, but I don't like to use it leading as much. The ATC is real nice and smooth. The XTC is also pretty good, with the variable friction feature. I find the XTC less smooth than the ATC, but better holding power. The reverso is nice but a bit noisy! I find the reverso a little harder to pay out slack compared to the XTC.
Hope this helps!
|
|
|
|
|
climbhigh2005
Oct 21, 2003, 10:25 AM
Post #11 of 32
(3856 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 14, 2003
Posts: 1500
|
Gri gri's are easier, but I personal like ATCs... they are cheaper and less weight to carry... plus I tihnk they are easier to belay with most of the time! depends on which I use more... I learned on a gri gri, and hated ATCs for a while until I got use to them!
|
|
|
|
|
overlord
Oct 21, 2003, 11:57 AM
Post #12 of 32
(3856 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120
|
I prefer a grigri, but im a sport climber.
|
|
|
|
|
jimdavis
Oct 22, 2003, 10:49 PM
Post #13 of 32
(3856 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 1, 2003
Posts: 1935
|
Gri-Gri's are no good for rappelling, they put more force on gear than dynamic tube belay devices, they suck to pay slack out with too.
They're awesome to bring seconds up on, and some people really like them for TR'ing. I don't like lowering people on them so I don't use them that much.
I mostly use them for bringing people up, as a PCD in a haul system (Progress Capture Device,) and for self belaying in the gym putting routes up. They make a smoothe waist level ascenders as well.
To each his own though. If you think your going to use it enough to justify the weight and cost, then you have your answer i guess.
Jim
|
|
|
|
|
howdidshedothat
Oct 24, 2003, 5:05 PM
Post #14 of 32
(3856 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 15, 2003
Posts: 171
|
I have 3 belay devices, gri-gri, ATC, and the reverso...The one I use the most is the reverso. It is like the gri-gri and the ATC in one! It's awesome! I still carry the ATC just in case I drop my reverso.
8)
|
|
|
|
|
calfcramp
Oct 24, 2003, 5:10 PM
Post #15 of 32
(3856 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 10, 2003
Posts: 391
|
In reply to: In reply to: What does a nursing home smell like? DEPENDSThat's hilarious. But I hear they are switch to "Oops I crapped my pants"
Heh heh....
I like using a reverso.
|
|
|
|
|
crag
Oct 24, 2003, 5:21 PM
Post #16 of 32
(3856 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 29, 2003
Posts: 623
|
In reply to: I know it is someones opinon on which is better but i would like to know what people like. Do you like the regular ATC or do you go for an automatic stopping device like the Gri Gri?
The best belay device is a hip belay. You never have to worry about dropping it.
|
|
|
|
|
nbrown
Oct 24, 2003, 5:56 PM
Post #17 of 32
(3856 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2002
Posts: 328
|
I like the petzl reverso.
|
|
|
|
|
climb_plastic
Oct 24, 2003, 6:26 PM
Post #18 of 32
(3856 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 24, 2003
Posts: 706
|
In reply to: Gri-Gri's are no good for rappelling, they put more force on gear than dynamic tube belay devices, they suck to pay slack out with too.
When you're rappelling off a bomber anchor the gri gri is fun to use. You can drop down quickly and just let go the release when you want to stop.
|
|
|
|
|
jimdavis
Oct 26, 2003, 4:10 AM
Post #19 of 32
(3856 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 1, 2003
Posts: 1935
|
In reply to: When you're rappelling off a bomber anchor the gri gri is fun to use. You can drop down quickly and just let go the release when you want to stop.
That's a good way to glaze your rope, a buddy of mine ran like 13 laps on some 40' lines and his rope is glazed over now from his belayer lowering too fast on a GriGri a bunch of time. Needless to say the rope is retired now.
The Gri-Gri doesn't work on double strands, so that really limits your options for rappelling with one.
|
|
|
|
|
dynoguy
Oct 26, 2003, 4:38 AM
Post #20 of 32
(3856 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 6, 2003
Posts: 730
|
I love my Trango Pyramid. It does its job, not too fancy and very simple.
|
|
|
|
|
jtcronk
Oct 26, 2003, 4:49 AM
Post #21 of 32
(3856 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 29, 2002
Posts: 122
|
I've used a Reverso for over a year now and love it. no complaints. I've used it on sport, alpine rock, and ice. It's been great for all.
|
|
|
|
|
justin
Oct 26, 2003, 11:07 AM
Post #22 of 32
(3856 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 20, 2003
Posts: 196
|
This is what I hate about this sport: I've an ATC-XP and a Gri-Gri and now I'm thinking- "Mmh, Reverso eh? Maybe I need one of those too..?"
|
|
|
|
|
overlord
Oct 26, 2003, 11:15 AM
Post #23 of 32
(3856 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120
|
the heat is really an issue with grigri, but if you dont rappel with it and dont run many laps on a single pitch, it should cool down between climbs.
as for poor rope feeding through grigri... learn how to feed, my leader naver complains about poor feeding. once you get used to it you can feed almost as quick as with an atc.
|
|
|
|
|
euroford
Oct 26, 2003, 6:24 PM
Post #24 of 32
(3856 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 2913
|
i like my trango paramid for typical rapells and most lead belay. though i'm sure any simular device will work just as well. i havn't and wouldn't use it with skinny ropes though.
i love my grigi for top ropeing and aid leads. lets the belayer chill out a bit. i also extensivly use my gri-gri for facade roped access which i frequently do for a living (consulting architect). at first i used a petzl i'd but i think that thing is a POS, and i now see that Petzl is listing and advocating the gri-gri for roped access use. i love that i can stop my rap at any point by simply letting go and that i can slap on an accesion and jug back up at any time, its few and far between that i switch over to my Croll for real frog jugging.
i always cary both the paramid and the gri-gri and i always find uses for both. i've never glazed a rope by rapelling on the gri-gri, and i've dropped pretty quick on both 11mm yates big wall ropes and bluewater 2 7/16" static rope though seldomly more than 40 feet. i think this could happen if you make the mistake of useing the gri-gri's brake to control your decent, you control your decent with your brake hand while keeping the gri-gri brake wide open. when done this way i would almost think that the gri-gri would disipate heat as well as an atc as it has a large amount of metal. you can also add another biner for more friction, all of this is on the petzl website.
everything has its place and its ideal use. the paramid is a perficly simply dual rope device that disipates heat very well and allows two friction options but comes short with skinny ropes. the gri-gri is the ultimate single rope auto lock device but comes short on single ropes, skinny ropes and instances where you need to have ultimate low-impact forces on the top piece.
if i used skinny singles, doubles or twins i would go with an ATC xp and leave bot the gri gri and the paramid at home.
the gri gri feeds out rope as well as any other, if you are haveing trouble with it you need to work on techique and break it in a bit. mine was a bit of a PITA for feeding when it was brand new. it seemed to 'loosen up' a bit after a couple outings.
|
|
|
|
|
climb_plastic
Oct 27, 2003, 6:35 AM
Post #25 of 32
(3856 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 24, 2003
Posts: 706
|
In reply to: That's a good way to glaze your rope, a buddy of mine ran like 13 laps on some 40' lines and his rope is glazed over now from his belayer lowering too fast on a GriGri a bunch of time.
That's a good thing you shared that with us....never heard of that problem before but I guess I can see that happening.
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
