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petsfed
Nov 1, 2003, 11:04 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Still on my list: Liquid Sky, Sixshooter Peak, Indian Creek Brutus, armed with a #5 BigBro ... Regardless of that, the route is about the worst looking horror-show I've seen, especially for big folks like me. People, we're talking about a 5.12 offwidth squeeze 20 foot roof, fer chrissakes!!!!
Its not the first one to be done. Of course, not everyone is into off-widths to begin with, so there you go. Try Lucille, 5.12 offwidth/squeeze chimney. 30 foot roof. The crux is moving out of the chimney, turning the lip of the roof, and starting up a 5.10 offwidth, all at the same time, without vomitting. Brutus knows about it. I'd like to hear more about the Wide World of Sport sometime, like where is it?
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jsj42
Nov 1, 2003, 11:31 PM
Post #27 of 51
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In reply to: In reply to: Still on my list: Liquid Sky, Sixshooter Peak, Indian Creek Brutus, armed with a #5 BigBro I think there needs to be a law against climbing that route. Regardless of that, the route is about the worst looking horror-show I've seen, especially for big folks like me. People, we're talking about a 5.12 offwidth squeeze 20 foot roof, fer chrissakes!!!!
When I climbed Lightning Bolt Cracks last year I got one look at that route and I wanted it. I tried to trick my partner into thinking it was Lightning Bolt Cracks but he wasn't buying it. Since then I've had the worst time trying to find someone even to follow it, go figure!
Brutus, if you want a partner for Liquid Sky, you've got one.
Josh
Hey, and what about Ascended Yoga Masters on Parriot Mesa?
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dingus
Nov 2, 2003, 4:51 PM
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The 4th and 5th pitches of Hawkman's Escape on the Lower Brother, which can be combined with a 165, are an oasis of chimney in an overhanging sea of diorite. You climb an easy chiimney of granite to gain the 1st belay. Then a wild overhaning 5.9 diorite pitch really puts you out there. The next pitch is a 5.7 diorite face with exactly two protection placements, very stimulating making the belay ledge 50 feet out from the last nut. Reminiscent of the East Butt of El Cap face pitch, only slightly harder and scarier. This sets you up for the chimneys.
You will find yourself in the middle of an overhanging wall. There are more overhangs above the chimney systems too. Another hard 5.9 pitch still to go. And several more afte that. But for a blessed 165 feet, you can crawl off that bald assed and scary face and hide and squirm up a 165 foot 5.6 chimney. The chimney is formed by a giant flake plastered to the wall. This being the Lower Brother, that flake will in the not too distant geologic future heave off, ruining the route and the road below.
Another absolutely fantastic chimney for us mere mortals is P1 of Split Pinnacle. Another forgotten classic of Yosemite, in the classic forgotten sense. Split Pinnacle used to be a must do route 30 years ago. Now, many don't even know a pinnacle exist up and to the right of Manure Pile Buttress.
The last pitch to the wild summit was originally aided by the FA and subsequently someone, Reed maybe? Can't remember, but someone rap bolted the wild assed flake TR alternative in what is believed to be the first such placed bolt in Yosemite, back in the 50's or was that the 60's?
Angus freed that crazy 10c layback (I've always done the A0-1 5-aid move variation to the top, helluva lot easier and safer) on the original 1/4 inch split shaft some 35 years after it was placed. Luckily he didn't fall.
DMT
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brutusofwyde
Nov 2, 2003, 7:36 PM
Post #29 of 51
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In reply to: I'd like to hear more about the Wide World of Sport sometime, like where is it?
JCAs Wide World of Sport is in Balch Camp Flake, above the road to Black Rock Reservoir, Sierra National Forest. Or something like that. Wanted to try it this last summer, Now that I have some of those #9 and #12 Valley Giants, but shoulder problems prevented, as they also prevented further attempts on Ebola. I'm hopeful of resuming my work on these next year. After all, last fall I was making it higher (3" higher) on each subsequent attempt of B@d @ss Momma, so my hope is that progress in this field is possible, even for someone of my advanced age and girth.
But we're talking Offwidths here.
My real preference is chimneys.
Like Ipecac.
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davidji
Nov 9, 2003, 6:45 PM
Post #30 of 51
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In reply to: Fun long chimney climb: NorthEast Buttress on Higher Cathedral |
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stickclipper
Nov 9, 2003, 7:59 PM
Post #31 of 51
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In reply to: In reply to: I'd like to hear more about the Wide World of Sport sometime, like where is it? My real preference is chimneys. Like Ipecac.
What/where is Ipecac? I looked for it in my Vogel Jtree book and found nothing.
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studs
Nov 10, 2003, 9:10 PM
Post #32 of 51
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Grand daddy of all chmneys, TheLost Arrow.Also try Crickets chimney AKA Gregs Problem at Woodson.On the other side of the road maybe on Mt Everest another 5.11 chim.
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bvb
Nov 13, 2003, 6:52 AM
Post #33 of 51
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yo STUDS homie GOT YER NUMBER BABE.
call now or the dominatrix will castrate you.
greg's problem at woodson is too badass. whatever happened to cameron, anyway??
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cgranite
Nov 15, 2003, 2:40 AM
Post #34 of 51
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I heard that there is a classic chimney on cathedral peak. what is the pro like with that pitch. I'm planning on going there this spring.
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brutusofwyde
Nov 15, 2003, 10:23 PM
Post #35 of 51
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Bartlett guide to Hidden Valley, P97
Longest 15-foot climb I have ever encountered.
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fixedpin
Nov 17, 2003, 6:49 PM
Post #36 of 51
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In reply to: Bartlett guide to Hidden Valley, P97 Longest 15-foot climb I have ever encountered.
Found on Hudson Rock (a small formation that is really the southern end of Rock Hudson)
IPECAC 11a A short right slanting wide slot above the finish of Gem Nabors (which is a right slanting crack on the right side of the west face of Hudson Rock.) Bartlett says "For the offwidth masochist only."
If you want to do the best chimney in Joshua Tree, do Firewater Chimney 10b in Valley of Kings in No. Wonderland. 90 feet long an varies from 5 feet to less than 2 feet; 6 bolts provide pro. I hate chimneys, and this route is actually fun. Someone posted a photo of this a while back. Here:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=Show&PhotoID=13234
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crackboy
Nov 18, 2003, 1:22 AM
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wow that looks awesome, i am heading down that way for thanksgiving. and maybe ill give it a shot. anyone know how tall the guy is climbing it?
i am a bit on the short side
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philbox
Moderator
Nov 18, 2003, 10:44 PM
Post #38 of 51
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Carborundum Chimney on the front face of Mt. Tibrogargan. Then there`s the classic four sided chimney pipe called Satans Smokestack at Frog Buttress. Both of these chimneys are a must do if anyone ever comes to Oz.
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roadguy
Nov 18, 2003, 11:46 PM
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check out The Spell in the Needles (CA) 5 pitches long I believe put up by Pete Steers a long way back
a good introduction into flaring squeezes is The Yawn in the Meadows. 5.9 with the entry move being a bomb-bay flare...quite an eye opener in my youth.
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catbiter
Jan 21, 2004, 6:21 AM
Post #40 of 51
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Lower Skyline Direct (LSD Seneca) blew my mind. First chimney. Ouch! Talk about not knowing what to do! I fumbled up it though. Very very sweet. I want another go, now that I understand that more than your back should be on one side.
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brutusofwyde
Jan 27, 2004, 12:10 AM
Post #41 of 51
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Harding Hole on Lost Arrow Chimney is Great. I'd need to go on a serious diet before I tried it again.
Harding Slot on Astroman and the Narrows on Steck-Salathe' are pretty tame by comparison. (Speaking only of their chimney sections)
The most serious set of wyde cracks I ever encountered, Bar none, was the East Face Dihedrals on Regge Pole, Little Slide Canyon, CA.
Hopefully there will never be a second ascent.
Brudus=cowering at the very memory
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thegreytradster
Jan 27, 2004, 1:48 AM
Post #42 of 51
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Best chimney story:
We had a TR set up on Hot Buttered Rump 10a at Suicide. It's a slightly overhanging very flared bomb bay affair that doesn't protect well either. High up you can grab the outside lip and the difficulty eases. There's another 10a, Harelip, that face climbs just above. There was another party on that climb and one of the cruxes is to step out on the edge of the lip. Dave reached up fumbling for the hold on the lip and they were both going for the same hold. Neither had any idea the other was there till then. The look and little dance the guy on Harelip did when he saw this hand appear from nowhere and seemingly grope for his foot was hysterical. That nobody fell off was amazing. :lol: :lol: :lol:
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cfnubbler
Jan 28, 2004, 9:13 PM
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Epinephrine has some of the most fun chimneys I've ever done. They'd be 5.7 in the Valley! Pleasant, well protected, great position, and capped by many pitches of fantastic moderate climbing with superb exposure. On the 3rd chimney pitch, both my partner and I did full 360 degree rotations on the way up. Good fun.
-Nubbler
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brianthew
Jan 28, 2004, 9:19 PM
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I once decided to romp up this 5.4 chimney/offwidth route at the Old Sandstone area of Deil's Lake, WI. It would seem that this route isn't often traveled, the thing was full of so much loose soil, mud, dust, you name it. At the time my crack/offwidth-fu was pretty poor, so I had a dickens of time in this filthy chimney. Topped out looking like a chimney-sweep (ba-dum-bum) of sorts. Ugh.
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mspclimber
Feb 5, 2004, 4:33 AM
Post #45 of 51
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Here's a chimney/offwidth story. In the fall of '99 I hired a guide for one day to teach me how to climb offwidth's better because I wanted to climb Salathe wall on El Cap. After much struggling on Moby Dick Ahab I did manage to link it on toprope - after finding a no hands "rest" and puking after the crux. The puke was just from the exertion of bad technique combined with stubborness.
Three years later after climbing Salathe Wall (leading the Hollow Flake and Ear) and many other offwidths up to 5.11 I ran across a humorous story about me on rec.climbing describing the wimp who hired a guide and puked all over him. My name wasn't mentioned, but it was me. It is a small world.
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bones
Feb 5, 2004, 5:04 AM
Post #46 of 51
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In reply to: Here's a chimney/offwidth story. In the fall of '99 I hired a guide for one day to teach me how to climb offwidth's better because I wanted to climb Salathe wall on El Cap. After much struggling on Moby Dick Ahab I did manage to link it on toprope - after finding a no hands "rest" and puking after the crux. The puke was just from the exertion of bad technique combined with stubborness. Three years later after climbing Salathe Wall (leading the Hollow Flake and Ear) and many other offwidths up to 5.11 I ran across a humorous story about me on rec.climbing describing the wimp who hired a guide and puked all over him. My name wasn't mentioned, but it was me. It is a small world.
Don't worry, I won't mention your name Lou. Oh, damn it!
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sandbag
Feb 5, 2004, 6:15 AM
Post #47 of 51
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http://rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=Show&PhotoID=23045
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vegastradguy
Feb 6, 2004, 6:53 PM
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I love chimneys. Havent done anything that tough, but I've been on some fun stuff.
Possibly my favorite is a 40' highball chimney boulder out at Kraft Rocks. clocks in at around 5.9ish. Just smooth, sheer rock and smear power!
let's see...there's a couple of really interesting chimney problems on Frigid Air Buttress. Healy's Haunted House has possibly the scariest 5.7 chimney in Red Rocks. I wouldnt recommend this for the 5.7 leader at all. Group Therapy also has a wickedly run out (one piece halfway through a 180' pitch) chimney after the crux...its almost an offwidth, which makes it nice and spicy for its 5.7 rating.
eh, nothing spectacular, but even us gumbies gotta get our kicks on something!
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iamthewallress
Feb 6, 2004, 6:59 PM
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In reply to: Three years later after climbing Salathe Wall (leading the Hollow Flake and Ear) and many other offwidths up to 5.11 I ran across a humorous story about me on rec.climbing describing the wimp who hired a guide and puked all over him. My name wasn't mentioned, but it was me. It is a small world.
It is a small world!
I've reproduced the link to that story several times. (You've got to admit that it's a pretty funny story ;-) ) I was telling my boyfriend about it, and apparently he already knew the story and had actually met you later on that day when you were feeling better and Billy was smelling a little better.
Glad to hear that the Hollow Flake and others worked out for you. I'm still trying to dial in my ow technique. Even if I manage an expert chundering from the likes of Ahab, I think that it will be a while before I'll brave the run out on the Hollow Flake!
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