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Multi-pitch routes in TN??
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climbhigh2005


Nov 10, 2003, 11:34 AM
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Multi-pitch routes in TN??
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I was just wondering if there were some multi pitch routes in TN?? I did one really easy one at MT. Yonah this weekend and loved it!! Thanx


Partner one900johnnyk


Nov 10, 2003, 11:46 AM
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i assume you are looking for multipitch sport??


climbhigh2005


Nov 10, 2003, 10:55 PM
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Proferably, but aid or trad too!


tommyf


Nov 11, 2003, 11:58 PM
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I was waiting to see were this went,,, but I can't really think of many multi pitch climbs like what you are looking for,, sorry not alot of help I know,, you need to go to NC


gasdr


Nov 12, 2003, 12:18 AM
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I live in East TN and know of no multipitch in the area. The closest would be in NC around the Linville Gorge (about 1.5 hours away) area or the New River (about 3 hours away).


tenn_dawg


Nov 12, 2003, 3:20 PM
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In reply to:
Linville Gorge (about 1.5 hours away) .

Damn buddy, you must be in FAR east Tennessee!

Travis


gasdr


Nov 14, 2003, 2:48 PM
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I really can't get much farther East than the tri-cities.


couch_climber


Nov 14, 2003, 4:02 PM
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Isn't Devils Racetrack (N of Knoxville) multipitch? Someone pointed it out to me way back when...


jut


Nov 14, 2003, 11:42 PM
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There are a fair amount of 2 and 3 pitch routes in tennessee. chattanooga has quite a few as well as bsf.


leedaclimber


Nov 15, 2003, 6:57 AM
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In reply to:
Isn't Devils Racetrack (N of Knoxville) multipitch? Someone pointed it out to me way back when...

Devil's has a 150' classic sport route called "Lucy in the Sky". It's usually done in 2 pitches.


joeschmoe


Nov 16, 2003, 7:00 PM
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if i'm not mistaken, access to devil's racetrack is somewhat dicey at the moment isnt? always wanted to climb it since i was a kid, but gotta find someone to drag my butt up it.


tenn_dawg


Nov 16, 2003, 8:04 PM
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In reply to:
if i'm not mistaken, access to devil's racetrack is somewhat dicey at the moment isnt? always wanted to climb it since i was a kid, but gotta find someone to drag my butt up it.

Access is good. You just have to trust that the local yokels don't break into your car. I've climbed there several times. It really is a unique place for TN. Several <.11 sport climbs, and a couple good trad lines too. I think I have an old guide book around here somewhere...

Travis


climbhigh2005


Nov 16, 2003, 11:08 PM
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Awesome!! Anyone wanna plan a day trip up there?? Perferable on the weekend or during Xmas break! Let me know! Thanks!
Peace out!


fireclimber


Nov 17, 2003, 12:48 AM
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the only place I have climbed in Tenn is Foster falls, mostly one pitch some two of sport, very little multi trad.


climbhigh2005


Nov 17, 2003, 12:58 AM
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I didnt realize Foster Falls had any multi pitch routes!


mattheww


Nov 17, 2003, 1:08 AM
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There's a couple 2 pitch routes at Foster in the 5.11 range in the Jimmywood area I believe...


jamnsurf


Nov 18, 2003, 10:56 PM
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T-wall
Short Arm Inspection 5.11b trad
No More Tiers 5.11a trad
Mourning sickness 5.11a trad
Lets Face It 5.7 trad
Grandmas Couch 5.11a trad
Crematorium 5.11d trad
Amoung the Wild Chimps 5.11b trad
Cold Day in hell 5.11b trad
Live and Direct 5.10c trad
The Terminator 5.11b trad
Talon 5.8 trad (I have done this one, great for first timers)
Many more here too......
SUCK CREEK HAS A FEW MULTIPITCH ROUTES, HIGH NUMBERS THOUGH.
Sunset Park has a few too.
Check the Dixie Cragers Atlas for routes of Multi.

Rumor, Yes I say rumor says, that Lidea(soddy Daisy) crag area has multi pitch. Where you say, go to leida face the main wall, turn 180 degrees what do you see? (other side of the wide canyon) Hike or not to hike, that is the question. I know nothing else, I havent been there, Should start a post about it sometime?


tenn_dawg


Nov 18, 2003, 11:29 PM
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Of the climbs you list, none of them MUST be done as multipitch routes though. They're all less than 130' tall (as I recall). I'm sorry, but if you can get back to the ground in one rappel, it's not multipitch in my book.

Rumor is there is some MP stuff in the BSF. I'm going to go check it out soon. Probably high numbers, but it's sandstone, so at least I'm dialed into the style. (unlike that scary ass Looking Glass stuff)

Travis


climbhigh2005


Nov 19, 2003, 2:16 AM
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I jsut talked to Ray Coucher.. and he said there was some aawesome palces in NC that where multi pitch! =)


tenn_dawg


Nov 19, 2003, 2:20 AM
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Posted: 18 Nov 2003 21:16 Post subject: Re: Multi-pitch routes in TN??

Well ask, and you shall recieve. NC is FULL of Multipitch, that's what it's known for. Tennesese however, is not.


jamnsurf


Nov 19, 2003, 5:56 PM
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Quote:

Of the climbs you list, none of them MUST be done as multipitch routes though. They're all less than 130' tall (as I recall). I'm sorry, but if you can get back to the ground in one rappel, it's not multipitch in my book.

I realize many routes in the guidebook(dixie crag) that say multi picth, can be done in 1 pitch. But for the purpose of learning and getting used to hanging belays and anchoring, there are many to choose from.Yas, If you want the real Mcoy go to Glass or better yet The Valley is place to be. The highest route at T-wall that I have heard of is around 155', which is not a full ropelength, so yes tenn-dawg you are correct, although some of the routes cannot be done in one picth due to rope drag and or obsticals. I have been to Suck Creek and there are some great routes there mostly aid, Recently there have been some boys there trying to free some of the old aid routes.


gregtrammell


Nov 26, 2003, 3:25 PM
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there are a couple of multipitch sport climbs at foster falls. I don't even know if they are listed in the DCA. I think you just have to pay close attention to the cliffs as you walk the cliff line.


space_monkey


Nov 29, 2003, 10:00 PM
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There are a hand full of MP routes here in TN. Some are known about and some are kept *Ssshhhhh* If MP is what you want than your better off climbing in NC. They have more MP there than you can shake a stick at.


sharmastyle


Dec 23, 2003, 11:47 PM
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I've recently been working on some multi-pitch routes at Fosters...there are a couple listed in the DCA for Foster Falls, they are in the Jimmywood area, to the left of Miss Scarlet and Miss Prissy. There is a 4 bolt 5.7 start that leads up to a couple of the climbs, one is a 10 and the other an 11b. There is also supposed to be a 5.7 2nd pitch above Miss Prissy, but you have to do some ugly scrambling up about 25 feet or so and it looks super sketchy, because if you slip it's a 60 foot groundfall and there isn't any protection :shock: I'm not sure I've got the balls to try that yet :roll: But good luck!!


climbhigh2005


Dec 24, 2003, 7:25 PM
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Thanks bunches!!


noff


Dec 24, 2003, 8:44 PM
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Melissa,

There are plenty of multi-pitch routes in the Big South Fork. I have been developing them for thirteen years. Most are 2-5 pitches, some free, some free/aid. Only a few moderates though, most are in the 5.10 A2 and up range. I'm drawing topos for the new Craggers Atlas. PM me if you would like more info.

Jeff


waterdog


Dec 26, 2003, 1:26 AM
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If you are willing to hike for awhile I can take you and your climbing partners to a place that borders on the Alabama line with Tennessee that would be what you are looking for. It is not bolted would have to be trad or aided.


climbhigh2005


Dec 26, 2003, 6:16 PM
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You guys I STILL havent been to Foster Falls... its like 2 hours and 45 min from my house, and my thing is i dont go over hour and ahalf unless I can camp.. so as soon as it warms up a little we should plan a trip up there!!
Melissa


waterdog


Dec 27, 2003, 2:31 AM
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You can camp at foster falls all year. There is plenty of firewood. I will be in the area in the next few days.


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