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Placing gear on rappel
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jt512


Mar 19, 2002, 8:19 PM
Post #26 of 29 (2564 views)
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Registered: Apr 11, 2001
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Placing gear on rappel [In reply to]
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Oddly enough, I agree with Jeremy. Practically all sport routes are bolted "top down," preferably using power drills.

-Jay


gripped


Mar 26, 2002, 1:42 PM
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Placing gear on rappel [In reply to]
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Quote:How the hell do you place bolts on lead then, huh? that 5.12 you climbed, if thats a sport climb, do you think it was bolted on lead? not a chance.
Quote:Oddly enough, I agree with Jeremy. Practically all sport routes are bolted "top down," preferably using power drills.
Bzzzt. Thanks for playing. The fact is that many, many bolts have been and are being placed in a manner other than rap-bolting. Many of you may have heard of Prince of Darkness. Bolted on "lead" from hook placements in a ground up style. Practically all the bolts found on multi-pitch Red Rocks routes were placed in this fashion. How about Stone Mtn. North Carolina. Routes there were typically bolted on lead from stances (think featureless slab) -- talk about ballsy.

Sure, most modern sport areas are rap-bolted but there is a lot of bolting done from the ground up too. In fact, I think a lot of El Portrero Chico routes were bolted on lead/hooks.


fishbait


Mar 26, 2002, 2:10 PM
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Placing gear on rappel [In reply to]
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I don't really have an opinion on the ground-up thing but I do have a question. For those that oppose rap-bolting and support a ground-up approach, why? I mean, it seems arbitrary to hold the first ascent party to such a higher standard than every other person that will ever climb the route. Just curious about your thoughts. Perhaps a new topic is in order...


jt512


Mar 26, 2002, 2:18 PM
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Placing gear on rappel [In reply to]
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Quote:gripped quipped: Bzzt. Thanks for playing,

Bzzt. Thanks for reading. Note that I said "are bolted." In America, we call that the present tense. I am aware that many older sport routes were bolted on lead. Fortunately, this is usually not done any more, because the result is often a route that is more dangerous than a sport climb should be.

-Jay

[ This Message was edited by: jt512 on 2002-03-26 17:43 ]

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