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arrrghjp
Jan 30, 2004, 5:33 AM
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Slick Rock in Idaho near McCall is about 8-10 full rope pitches of fairly consistent 5.6 granite slab climbing. Great gear placements on most of the climb, provided you follow the classic route. The scenery is spectacular, and not a very popular locale.
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moabbeth
Jan 30, 2004, 5:42 AM
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Ask and you shall receive stick233, and it's even here in the SW (Red Rocks):
http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=resosols
http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=resojohn
Climb Johnny Vegas, 5.7 - 4 pitches up to the base of Solar Slab and link up to Solar Slab, 5.6 = 1500 ft of climbing. I did the Beulah's Book start instead (5.9) but Johnny Vegas is supposed to be fun. Hell, a lot of people come out and just do that and don't link up with SS. Which is a shame cause the whole long route is sublime. Pretty easy moves too.
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dirtineye
Jan 30, 2004, 6:11 AM
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In reply to: Ask and you shall receive stick233, and it's even here in the SW (Red Rocks): http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=resosols http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=resojohn Climb Johnny Vegas, 5.7 - 4 pitches up to the base of Solar Slab and link up to Solar Slab, 5.6 = 1500 ft of climbing. I did the Beulah's Book start instead (5.9) but Johnny Vegas is supposed to be fun. Hell, a lot of people come out and just do that and don't link up with SS. Which is a shame cause the whole long route is sublime. Pretty easy moves too.
Is it classic? Is it fun to touch the rock? Or is it boring?
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drkodos
Jan 30, 2004, 6:25 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Ask and you shall receive stick233, and it's even here in the SW (Red Rocks): http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=resosols http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=resojohn Climb Johnny Vegas, 5.7 - 4 pitches up to the base of Solar Slab and link up to Solar Slab, 5.6 = 1500 ft of climbing. I did the Beulah's Book start instead (5.9) but Johnny Vegas is supposed to be fun. Hell, a lot of people come out and just do that and don't link up with SS. Which is a shame cause the whole long route is sublime. Pretty easy moves too. Is it classic? Is it fun to touch the rock? Or is it boring?
It is a slog.
Beulahs Book has two 5.8 moves and a bunch of 5.5 climbing.
Johnny Vegas is 2 ultra soft pitches of 5.7 and one craptacular pitch of 5.3
Solar Slab is Ok. Like it's name suggests, it tends to lean inwards.
The combination of climbs is most likely the least exposed 1500 feet of climbing one could possible do and still maintain 5th class conditions. This, coupled with a short approach (from a Red Rock perspective ~ 30 minutes), and bolted anchors, makes these climbs the quintesential girlfriend/nOOb outings.
10 odious rappels or a two-hour vertical bushwacking descent latrer and one is back on the ground.
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phugganut
Jan 30, 2004, 6:32 AM
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In reply to: 10 odious rappels or a two-hour vertical bushwacking descent latrer and one is back on the ground.
Sounds like fun to me! 8)
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dirtineye
Jan 30, 2004, 6:34 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Ask and you shall receive stick233, and it's even here in the SW (Red Rocks): http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=resosols http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=resojohn Climb Johnny Vegas, 5.7 - 4 pitches up to the base of Solar Slab and link up to Solar Slab, 5.6 = 1500 ft of climbing. I did the Beulah's Book start instead (5.9) but Johnny Vegas is supposed to be fun. Hell, a lot of people come out and just do that and don't link up with SS. Which is a shame cause the whole long route is sublime. Pretty easy moves too. Is it classic? Is it fun to touch the rock? Or is it boring?
SOmehow, I sense a difference of opinion here, and since Moabbeth is far cuter than drkodos, I think for now I will side with her LOL.
Drkodos, it may be a slog, but is the rock good quality? Is it nice to touch, or is it miserable to be on? Below 5.7 I start looking for no hands potentiial, does it have no hands potential? THAT is a way to spice up a climb that otherwise has no redeeming social value!
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drkodos
Jan 30, 2004, 6:35 AM
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The rock is excellent quality. Very user friendly.
They are great routes for their grades, but they do tend to be soft, with many, MANY, easy sections. Nothing BUT no-hands rests on these beauties....
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moabbeth
Jan 30, 2004, 6:36 AM
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In reply to: 10 odious rappels or a two-hour vertical bushwacking descent latrer and one is back on the ground.
Maybe for YOU kodos....cause to actually top out on Solar Slab, there isn't a top anchor. You must have stopped before the 4th class walkup to the top. We topped out and did the 3 raps then slab walk off so I could see where Levitation 29 and Rainbow Buttress were. It's a gorgeous walk off and lots more fun than what you went through from what it sounds.
And SFW if it's a quintisential noob route...the original poster asked for long 5.7 stuff, I simply gave him an answer of one I thought he'd like. It's in the sun, fairly easy, and has a great view. Sure ain't anything to bitch about.
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drkodos
Jan 30, 2004, 6:38 AM
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No one is beothching, just telling it like it is. There are better routes at those grades in Red Rock. Longer, better rock, better exposure, with easier descents, and less crowded.
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crackjammer
Jan 30, 2004, 4:43 PM
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Come on people. He asked for the LONGEST 5.7 and 5.8 routes. Anything under 25 pitches does not count. I listed 4 good ones on page 2.
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stick233
Jan 30, 2004, 5:07 PM
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thanks for all the beta folks...
i think i'll try to hit elephant head before i move from tucson next month, then i'm thinkning about red rocks, potrero chico, or yose again... i'd like to hit up snake dike, and the vagas/ solar slab link sounds fun in red rocks...
tuolomne, tetons et al will probably wait a bit longer... finding the time to climb gets harder with age(?!)
thanks again!
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stick233
Jan 30, 2004, 5:10 PM
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In reply to: 1. Complete Northwest Ridge from the Valley floor on the Grand Teton - 6,100 feet high, max. 5.7 2. Complete North or Northeast Ridge from the Desert Floor on Lone Pine Peak, High Sierra. Both about 7,000 vertical feet to mid 5th class. 3. Complete Northwest Ridge on Mount Logan, North Cascades. Grade V 5.8, almost 3 miles of ridgeline. 4. Direct North Pillar on Mount Slesse in British Columbia. Grave V 5.8, 27 pitches.
as far as ridgline climbing goes, is it more of an adventure hike over near horizontal fins, or vertical? not real familiar... a 20+ pitch 5.7 sounds great to me though!
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herm
Jan 30, 2004, 11:08 PM
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Are they hikes? Consider that only two or three parties have completed the entire palasade traverse. It may look horizontal from a distance, but funny how things open up and swallow you when you get too close. Most parties bail off these ridges without finishing. There is a 4,000' 5.4 on the North Rib of Williamson. Give it a try, see if it is "easy".
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drkodos
Jan 30, 2004, 11:18 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: 10 odious rappels or a two-hour vertical bushwacking descent latrer and one is back on the ground. Sounds like fun to me! 8)
I climbed with a guy from this site that would go out of his way to get into epics. If the climb had a straightforward way to get down, he was bummed. Singlehandedly, he keeps headlamp manufacturers in business. He can turn a one pitch sport climb into a multi-day bivouc affair.
For this reason, and others, I suppose, he loves Red Rock. The routes here tend to be generally soft, with many times the true crux being encountered on the way back down !!
If one wants long routes in the 5.7 to 5.8 range, as has been stated many times above:
Get Thee to the Sierras.
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phugganut
Jan 31, 2004, 12:34 AM
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I don't go out of my way to get into epics. However, unlike many people on this site, I actually ENJOY rappelling, hiking, and scrambling. It's fun to me. I mean, I think that Beth's route sounds like a blast, AND you get to hike, scramble, and rappell!!! Woohoo!
BTW Kodos, who cares if the climbs are easy? While it's fun to push your limits, it's also fun to do easy climbs on good rock in beautiful scenery with good people. A good example is WHite MAiden's Walkaway @ Tahqitz. It's way easy, has a long slog of an approach, and an even longer descent. However, it's a fabulous climb and I'm sure to do it several more times. For the same reasons, though I've never been to Red Rocks, it's gonna move up a few notches on my 'to do' list.
Anyway, sorry to rant/preach.
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drkodos
Jan 31, 2004, 12:50 AM
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In reply to: BTW Kodos, who cares if the climbs are easy? While it's fun to push your limits, it's also fun to do easy climbs on good rock in beautiful scenery with good people.
I respectfully disagree on many counts.
When I want to socialize I don't do it rock climbing.
I never have fun on easy climbs, as I stay away from them at this point. When I did them, they were not easy as I was new to those grades and the sport was different 25 years ago.
Today, doing an easy climb for fun would be like driving six hours to climb the stairs at your house. There is no point, for me.
Why climb if not for pushing your limits? In general, this is the problem I have with the current crop of today's climbers. Too much talk about feelings and spirituality and good friends.
Climbing is all about pushing limits ( by definition) and here is why: It is unnatural, and there is no reason to climb. Just being on vertical rock is entering a realm that humans may not belong.
Those that know me, climb with me, will attest that I am always pushing. Falling, attacking, getting better, going after it with a zealousness and intensity that most cannot match. I do the same in the real world. Why would anyone ascribe to anything less than trying to acheive their maximum?
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phugganut
Jan 31, 2004, 2:00 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: BTW Kodos, who cares if the climbs are easy? While it's fun to push your limits, it's also fun to do easy climbs on good rock in beautiful scenery with good people. ...I never have fun on easy climbs.
That's too bad, b/c IMHO you are missing out on some fun stuff.
In reply to: Today, doing an easy climb for fun would be like driving six hours to climb the stairs at your house. There is no point, for me.
IMO it's not at all the same. The inside of my house isn't scenic or beautiful; it's just a spartan bachelor pad. It smells like a bachelor pad and the smog from outside creeps in. It's nothing like doing a multi-pitch climb in a beautiful area. That's like saying that a relatively flat hike in a sublime wilderness is the same as walking down my hallway. Do you really think that way?
In reply to: Why climb if not for pushing your limits? In general, this is the problem I have with the current crop of today's climbers. Too much talk about feelings and spirituality and good friends.
Yeah, spirituality and feelings and good friends suck! Why waste your time on such stupid, useless things :roll:
In reply to: Climbing is all about pushing limits ( by definition) and here is why: It is unnatural, and there is no reason to climb. Just being on vertical rock is entering a realm that humans may not belong.
You must be a sport climber- not that there's anything wrong with that.:lol:
IMO climbing IS about pushing your limits, but that's not all it is. That's what I was trying (unsuccessfully) to explain in my previous post. It's too bad that you only enjoy one aspect of climbing when there is so much more to it. I mean, it's cool that you find enjoyment in climbing super hard all the time, but it's also cool that others SOMETIMES like to climb for other reasons. Can't you see that?
In reply to: Why would anyone ascribe to anything less than trying to acheive their maximum?
Oh come on now. Just because a person isn't pushing their limits ALL the time doesn't mean that they're settling for mediocrity. For example:
I like to play basketball. Sometimes I play with one group of people and we play HARD! We work at it and get better and it's great. However, sometimes I play 'ball with other people and we do it just for fun. We don't foul hard around the basket or run set plays. Hell, sometimes we even just play h-o-r-s-e. And do you know what? It's FUN!
Also, I like to backpack on occasion. SOmetimes I really push myself and pack 20+ miles a day over rugged terrain for a week or so. But it's also fun to backpack just a few miles in, set up a basecamp, and explore a new area.
ONe final example: I'm good at my job, and I take pride in pushing myself to be better at it. However, sometimes it's fun to just flirt with the medical records lady or to take a long lunch and put off documenting until the next day.
Anyway, I can see your point about pushing your limits. It's a very valid point and I also enjoy pushing my limits. So why can't you see why someone would like, on occasion, to just have fun and see beautiful sights? If you really want to be Joe Hardman, then you could just, as you said in a previous post, climb it with no hands.
Stick was asking for 5.7 & 5.8 climbs, not superhard climbs that he/she has to fall several times on to send.
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areyoumydude
Jan 31, 2004, 2:01 AM
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Wow I had to go get a towel after all that spray. Thanks for letting us know why you climb drkonos but that doesn't have anything to do with this thread. If you don't like solar slab that's fine. You made your point.
I think solar slab is classic for its grade. Another great long route is frogland 5.8 in Black Velvet Canyon.
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reno
Jan 31, 2004, 2:41 AM
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I was thinking of the Nordwand on the Eiger... It is *only* a 5.7 route. :)
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jhump
Jan 31, 2004, 2:43 AM
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Cassin Ridge 9,000 feet. 5.8
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jhump
Jan 31, 2004, 2:46 AM
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Come to think of it, the Shining Wall on G4 has some 5.7 rotten marble and is 7,500 feet. 2nd place.
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chugach001
Jan 31, 2004, 5:26 PM
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Hey crackjammer,
You got me all excited, but I got questions...how many roped pitches on these? I'm familiar with the Grand and it's a long way from the valley floor to the NW Ridge - am I remembering this right? Also, from memory and what I can tell in the Moynier/Fiddler Sierra book, Lone Pine NR is about eight 5th class pitches.
How about Sleese? That is definately on my hit list. Is there really 27 fifth class pitches? If so, I'm on my way.
Hey, Jhump - good call on the Cassin.
Crackjammer wrote:
1. Complete Northwest Ridge from the Valley floor on the Grand Teton - 6,100 feet high, max. 5.7
2. Complete North or Northeast Ridge from the Desert Floor on Lone Pine Peak, High Sierra. Both about 7,000 vertical feet to mid 5th class.
3. Complete Northwest Ridge on Mount Logan, North Cascades. Grade V 5.8, almost 3 miles of ridgeline.
4. Direct North Pillar on Mount Slesse in British Columbia. Grave V 5.8, 27 pitches.
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crackjammer
Feb 2, 2004, 4:44 PM
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In reply to: Hey crackjammer, You got me all excited, but I got questions...how many roped pitches on these? I'm familiar with the Grand and it's a long way from the valley floor to the NW Ridge - am I remembering this right? Also, from memory and what I can tell in the Moynier/Fiddler Sierra book, Lone Pine NR is about eight 5th class pitches. How about Sleese? That is definately on my hit list. Is there really 27 fifth class pitches? If so, I'm on my way.
The lower portion of the Northwest Ridge down at the South Fork of Cascade Canyon is scrambling. It steepens to 5th class at just below 10,000 feet, providing almost 4,000 feet of moderate 5th class rock with some 4th class. If done in it's entirety, it is a FANTASTIC climb. There is something very pleasing to me about long alpine routes like this and the ones on Lone Pine Peak. Try it!
Slesse's North Pillar is all 5th class and exposed on a major feature on a large mountain. Most of the pitches are between 5.6 and 5.8. This would take a herculean effort to do in one day, unless you simulclimbed it. Expect to bivouac atleast once.
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jer
Feb 2, 2004, 6:03 PM
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In reply to: It is a slog. Beulahs Book has two 5.8 moves and a bunch of 5.5 climbing. Johnny Vegas is 2 ultra soft pitches of 5.7 and one craptacular pitch of 5.3 Solar Slab is Ok. Like it's name suggests, it tends to lean inwards. The combination of climbs is most likely the least exposed 1500 feet of climbing one could possible do and still maintain 5th class conditions. This, coupled with a short approach (from a Red Rock perspective ~ 30 minutes), and bolted anchors, makes these climbs the quintesential girlfriend/nOOb outings. 10 odious rappels or a two-hour vertical bushwacking descent latrer and one is back on the ground.
What the? If you are comfortable w/o a rope, you can do this entire line with the gulley start in a couple hours. I did it base to base in 1:45. Slog? Nah...but true, I did pass alot of girlfriend/noobs along the way. I downclimbed the gulley raps to the climbers right of the route, then downclimbed SS gulley-not too bad. I thought Beulahs and Jonny V was okay, but not as much fun as the upper slabs. Came back and simulclimbed it a couple years later. Just as fun...no, it wasn't "hard", but it was better than a rest day on the strip.
Jer
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j_ung
Feb 3, 2004, 10:10 PM
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It's nowhere near the longest, but Crimson Chrysalis in RR is definitely full value. How do you top 1000' feet of incut jugs? It's also pretty consistently 5.6-5.7 the whole way up, with a light 5.8 crux or two thrown in for good measure. No stupid scrambles. No obsene cruxes.
PS - The descent sucks (rappel the route), but the climb is worth it. Get there early to be the party-throwing-ropes-on, instead of the party-having-ropes-thrown-on.
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