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What is your favorite offwidth
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holmeslovesguinness


Jun 2, 2004, 10:19 AM
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Vedauwoo definitely has a lot of 'beginner' offwidths to practice on. Mother #1 and Lower/Upper Slots (5.7/8-ish) are great lines to tune into suffering. Middle Parallel Space and Fantasia (5.9's) are also very cool (I've only TR'd those and felt like puking afterwards).


wes_allen


Jun 2, 2004, 10:25 AM
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Muscle Shoals, 5.8+ RRG
When Doves Cry, 5.12+ 40 foot OW Roof boulder problem, RRG

So many cool OW routes and problems in Vedauwoo, great place to train for crack climbing for sure.

Wes


Partner phaedrus


Jun 2, 2004, 10:44 AM
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In reply to:
Isn't 'favorite offwidth' an oxymoron?

My thoughts exactly. :P


Partner climboard


Jun 2, 2004, 11:07 AM
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What ever offwidth I'm belaying my partner on....

Surprised noone has said: crux pitch Keeler Needle - 5.10+ offwidth at altitude!

Murf

I still shudder thinking about it. The altitude and loose rock just add to the charm of that one.


hexitup


Jun 2, 2004, 2:02 PM
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Yes! The Generator Crack in Yosemite.

Gorgeous


slobmonster


Jun 2, 2004, 6:41 PM
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I'll throw my hat in for the Half Moon crack on Vertigo, Cannon Cliff, NH. Glad it got brought up already, too.


jaybro


Mar 26, 2005, 3:50 PM
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Great thread, too bad I'm a year late.
They're ALL good. The question is, is there a bad offwidth?
Murf- for my money the best OW pitch at altitude, in the sierras, is the one on Conness, pure o-dub technique with classic dicey fixed pro; the one on Keeler is fun, but 10b (easier) and with handjams in the back, it's not an offwidth.
Studs- Blind faith is so cool, I don't know why more people don't do it. Especially with that, better that Butterballs, first pitch to lure them in.
INMHO Vedauwoo has the best progression of easy to hard ow's and is, thus, probably the best place to learn, hone, and enjoy the craft.

-"Offwidth climbers make the most technical moves of all.." - Ace Kvale


golsen


Mar 26, 2005, 4:09 PM
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Only 1 vote for the Hollow Flake on Salathe?

And none mentioned the Priest? That is a very unique pitch travelling all the way through the spire.....


petsfed


Mar 26, 2005, 4:13 PM
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In reply to:
Vedauwoo definitely has a lot of 'beginner' offwidths to practice on. Mother #1 and Lower/Upper Slots (5.7/8-ish) are great lines to tune into suffering. Middle Parallel Space and Fantasia (5.9's) are also very cool (I've only TR'd those and felt like puking afterwards).

Funny, the only ow I wanted to puke after was the first time I got on Handjacker. If I'd liebacked and face climbed like everybody else does, it wouldn't have been so bad.

I changed my mind, incidentally, Lucille is no longer my favorite offwidth. The damn fingercrack to get to the offwidth spits me off way too much. I blame the roof on Best of the Blues for killing my hand strength before I get there.

The crux of Nexus is pretty fun, if brief and far too easy. Likewise, the 5.8 alternate finish for the Bastille Crack is not to be missed. Much more fun than the squeeze finish. Makes the entire climb more continuous. Should be longer and harder, but I can't ask for that much from Eldo. The second pitch of Stolen Chimney in the Fishers is filthy and almost too wide to be true offwidth, but its not hard and the moves are fun. Mainstreet at Vedauwoo is classic. Long, sustained, and just hard enough to keep away the maddening crowds. Fantasia is harder, but since it has a lower grade, everyone not in the know goes to it instead of Mainstreet.


bubbahotep


Mar 27, 2005, 11:23 AM
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Road Warrior on Mount Evans - Solid 5.10+ at over 13,000 feet.

The Maelstrom on Poe Buttress, South Platte - Squeeze chimney to arm bar crux.

Pitch 3 of The Obelisk on the Diamond - Take your #4.5 camalots!


azrockclimber


Mar 28, 2005, 5:35 AM
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In reply to:
The one I just got off of!!!!

funny as shit...Well I haven't done too many but pitch 4 of the Braille Book in Yosemite was really cool. And very strenuous for an Arizona trained climber.


piton


Mar 28, 2005, 5:55 AM
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mainstreet @ vedauwoo is real nice.


tetons


Mar 28, 2005, 7:47 AM
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Lowe Rt., Grand Teton/Enclosure.
Wear boots, you'll need them for the ice pitches anyway. Don't dally, bring your biggest pro. Or, bring George....
Either way, you won't be waiting in line.


angelaa


Mar 28, 2005, 7:49 AM
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[violet]FANTASIA!!! :D [/violet]


evanwish


Mar 17, 2009, 6:16 PM
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Re: [angelaa] What is your favorite offwidth [In reply to]
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bump.


rockandlice


Mar 17, 2009, 6:30 PM
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The one that changes into a nice hand splitter 3 feet above the dirt beneath my belayers feet.


petsfed


Mar 17, 2009, 6:41 PM
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evanwish wrote:
bump.

I got on Jay's Solo out at the Short Wall last fall with edl. That thing is an absolute beast. If you do not have your technique absolutely dialed, you will get your ass handed to you by a 30 foot 5.10 offwidth. Since its so fuckin' sustained, it got respect from me.

Another one is Orbital Ridge at Poland Hill. 10b #6 friend leavittation until it joins up with Skull. Incredibly pretty. There's a sweet 5.11 offwidth roof boulder problem out at Coyote Rocks that's worth doing if you're there, but its only 2 or 3 moves and then its over. Not really my favorite by any means.

The Warden at the Dungeon though...

I've yet to finish it, but it is soooo good.

The first pitch of Hammer is really good, but at a pretty reasonable grade. I really enjoyed it.


jeremy11


Mar 17, 2009, 7:10 PM
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Further Up and Further In 5.8
A probable first ascent of mine in Colorado, it starts with about 20 feet of kinda weird offwidth/face climbing up a corner, then a move around a chockstone onto a ledge (where I'm standing in the picture) then into the crack about 4 feet through a squeeze for about 20 feet to the top. At its tightest the squeeze is barely big enough to fit through. It goes much smoother with a webbing swami, no helmet, and the tie in knot on the side. The only pro worth bringing is one big cam. For the top anchor, just sit across the top of the crack, find a good stance and belay off your swami, or do a hip belay.
Also a nice solo.


evanwish


Mar 17, 2009, 7:11 PM
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hmmm those ones sound pretty awesome.
sounds like the .11a offwidth roof i did this weekend. my hardest offwidth so far

My overall favorite would have to be Eeyore's Enigma (.10a) at Lover's Leap


evanwish


Mar 17, 2009, 7:18 PM
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jeremy11 wrote:
It goes much smoother with a webbing swami, no helmet, and the tie in knot on the side.

yeah i've heard all about using a swami, especially since my harness always gets caught, but never brought myself to using it.... Blush


jeremy11


Mar 17, 2009, 7:39 PM
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evanwish wrote:
jeremy11 wrote:
It goes much smoother with a webbing swami, no helmet, and the tie in knot on the side.

yeah i've heard all about using a swami, especially since my harness always gets caught, but never brought myself to using it.... Blush

My first time up, with the real harness, it was very tight fitting through, with the belay loop and gear loops and all, even with minimal gear.
You could get the Arcteryx WST sport harness for the same low profile, or use a $1 chunk of webbing you already have. The freedom, comfort, and weight is so nice I might use it on some long easy climbs. you can turn a 4 foot sling into leg loops with a couple overhands in the right places too, for rappeling.


clemsonscooby


Mar 18, 2009, 7:14 AM
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Mikes Book-HVCG JTree
Fat Dog-SF Looking Glass


wishiwasamonkey


Mar 18, 2009, 7:36 AM
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Pegasus-bruce peninsula-Ontario-canada

leading it as soon as its warm enough.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/Canada/Ontario/Central_Ontario/Cape_Croker/Left_of_the_ladder/Pegasus_53168.html


salamanizer


Mar 18, 2009, 7:46 AM
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evanwish wrote:
hmmm those ones sound pretty awesome.
sounds like the .11a offwidth roof i did this weekend. my hardest offwidth so far

My overall favorite would have to be Eeyore's Enigma (.10a) at Lover's Leap


...And what .11a OW roof was that? Batmans Nightmare? Pffft! Unsure


Partner robdotcalm


Mar 18, 2009, 9:23 AM
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petsfed wrote:


Another one is Orbital Ridge at Poland Hill. 10b #6 friend leavittation until it joins up with Skull. Incredibly pretty.

The first pitch of Hammer is really good, but at a pretty reasonable grade. I really enjoyed it.

Hammer (on Valley Massif at Vedauwoo). Here some px of me on it 28 years ago. Note the tube chock. Did it a few years ago. Seemed easier with two #4 Camalots.

When I was a boy we really climbed Orbital Ridge(at Poland Hill in Vedauwoo) right-side-up. None of this silly leavittation stuff.


r.c


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