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evanwish


Mar 18, 2009, 11:47 AM
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Re: [salamanizer] What is your favorite offwidth [In reply to]
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salamanizer wrote:
evanwish wrote:
hmmm those ones sound pretty awesome.
sounds like the .11a offwidth roof i did this weekend. my hardest offwidth so far

My overall favorite would have to be Eeyore's Enigma (.10a) at Lover's Leap


...And what .11a OW roof was that? Batmans Nightmare? Pffft! Unsure

batman can't fly.. yeah it'd be a simple 10- squeeze if you can fit in it on the river side of it but i was too big even on empty lungs so i had to traverse all the way accross that thing..


patmay81


Mar 18, 2009, 12:43 PM
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Re: [evanwish] What is your favorite offwidth [In reply to]
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I just did Moscow, only 5.6/7 (at smith, last weekend). It had some sweet ow sections, but I couldn't enjoy them too much since I didn't know the gear was that big up the entire route. I had several 40'+ run outs, which was VERY unnerving for me.
I also climbed a really awesome 35' splitter ow (maybe 5.10+/11-) at widgi creek in Bend. I don't know the name of it though, but it was probably the best ow I've done to date.


petsfed


Mar 18, 2009, 2:42 PM
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Re: [robdotcalm] What is your favorite offwidth [In reply to]
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robdotcalm wrote:
When I was a boy we really climbed Orbital Ridge(at Poland Hill in Vedauwoo) right-side-up. None of this silly leavittation stuff.

Rob, I didn't mean that crazy inversion stuff that Bob and Brad and Craig get so much mileage from. I just meant the combo of knee locks and hand stacks.

I've tried to use traditional offwidth technique on Orbital Ridge. I'm certain you'd get quite a laugh watching me do that. But the leavittation techniques aren't just the wacky inversion circus trick stuff, and it even makes easy stuff like the middle offwidth on Edward's Crack or Easy Jam, even easier.

When the size is right, its definitely the better way to climb an offwidth. Mind you, it simply does not work on Fantasia, or the start of Lower Slot, or Main Street, or the final 8 feet of Lower Progressive, but when it works, it works really well. As I recall, I used a ton of good old-fashioned chicken wings, arm bars, heel-toes, and (when all else failed) thrutching on Hammer and Jay's Solo. I understand Big Pink requires the same, but I have the good sense to wait on that one a little while longer.

(for those not aware, these are all at Vedauwoo, which is perhaps the very best place in the country to learn and perfect offwidth techniques)

Speaking of...

Angry, did you ever go back and send Big Pink?


budman


Mar 18, 2009, 3:22 PM
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Re: [okinawatricam] What is your favorite offwidth [In reply to]
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Fort Knox on Gold Bar Tower. Didn't have a name when I did it. Just had a location and some beta from a friend. All she said was "You can do it". Busted a rib mid crux. Heard it snap and it hurt to breathe for 3 months. Tipped out #5 is never awe inspiring either. Cool desert OW. Toss up between favorite OW and most memorable tower.


mojede


Mar 19, 2009, 10:04 PM
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Any of 'em that REQUIRE a kick-through, seem to be the most fun (read favorite) odubs lately. (taped-up, bloody emoticon)


evanwish


Mar 19, 2009, 10:36 PM
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Re: [mojede] What is your favorite offwidth [In reply to]
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yeah i've been experimenting more with taping up.. my last one i taped up my tricep and ankles.. i think the tape alone brings down the grade at least a full number.. ha


mountainhick


Mar 20, 2009, 7:13 AM
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Never got along with OW, but I guess the most memorable was the Diving board in Eldo.


petsfed


Mar 20, 2009, 8:29 AM
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Re: [evanwish] What is your favorite offwidth [In reply to]
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evanwish wrote:
yeah i've been experimenting more with taping up.. my last one i taped up my tricep and ankles.. i think the tape alone brings down the grade at least a full number.. ha

Get high tops. I only ever tape my hands anymore, and then, only lightly. I have, however, taped clear up to my elbows on particularly unrelenting wide-hands corners.


Partner cracklover


Mar 23, 2009, 9:31 AM
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Re: [rhei] What is your favorite offwidth [In reply to]
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rhei wrote:
Ambler wrote:
Half Moon Crack on Vertigo at Cannon. Has a scary reputation, which makes it all the more fun when you find out that it's really a hike.

All depends on your size. Bigger folk find it an off-width (or layback), smaller bodies get inside and chimney. Either way, the runout is still serious.

This thread needs more pics! I've done a few of these "favorite" OWs, but this one is probably my personal fave. Plus, it's the only one I have a photo of!



GO


(This post was edited by cracklover on Mar 23, 2009, 9:34 AM)


billcoe_


Mar 30, 2009, 8:30 AM
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I hate all of them, but dislike this one the least. I had spyed this line, and bought a couple of wide pieces of pro to do it and had been dreading doing it. Had to wait for the snow to clear, so I had a long time to quake in fear and pee my pants repeatedly as I considered the possibility of dieing in the outback.

Spring came, snow melted. Walked up, did it ground up, and my 2 buddies, both stronger (and better looking too) than me had a more difficult time following it.



Named it "Bride of Wyde". Thanks for the mispelling tip Brutus!

I never had any wide pro before, so it was quite a nice surprise to be overprotecting something like this for once.


Partner cracklover


Mar 30, 2009, 8:41 AM
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Congrats!

GO


ahab


Mar 30, 2009, 11:33 AM
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Wide Pride
5.10c
RRG, Ky



doesn't see a whole lot of action due to it's obscure location, but if you're into OW and in the red you should drag your crew out to lost ridge for a healthy dose.


billcoe_


Mar 31, 2009, 8:48 AM
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Re: [ahab] What is your favorite offwidth [In reply to]
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Ahab, wide pride looks like you could stem off the tree and chimney for rests:-)


evanwish


Apr 2, 2009, 8:13 AM
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Re: [ahab] What is your favorite offwidth [In reply to]
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ahab wrote:
doesn't see a whole lot of action due to it's obscure location....
or because its an offwidth... thats the best thing about them, NEVER a line!

anybody here climbed Pratt's Crack near Bishop?
I'm hoping to climb it in a few weeks...


brutusofwyde


Apr 2, 2009, 10:10 AM
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Re: [evanwish] What is your favorite offwidth [In reply to]
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Pratt's... classic. Bring #6 and larger cams, up to #4 Big Bros.

Good line.

Do it to the top for full credit.

Brutus


evanwish


Apr 8, 2009, 9:28 PM
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Re: [brutusofwyde] What is your favorite offwidth [In reply to]
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ok so i [only] have a #6, a #9 valley giant and a #4 BB... that good?

any tips or recomendations for this one? I've never really done long offwidths, just a bunch of 20-30' 5.10's and a short section of .11


petsfed


Apr 9, 2009, 7:11 AM
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Re: [evanwish] What is your favorite offwidth [In reply to]
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evanwish wrote:
ok so i [only] have a #6, a #9 valley giant and a #4 BB... that good?

any tips or recomendations for this one? I've never really done long offwidths, just a bunch of 20-30' 5.10's and a short section of .11

Get more of the regular cams. BD #5 and 6, or Friends #5 and 6. If you can find it, get an old style (so, non C4) #4 camalot.


dlintz


Apr 9, 2009, 7:46 AM
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Re: [petsfed] What is your favorite offwidth [In reply to]
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petsfed wrote:
evanwish wrote:
bump.

I got on Jay's Solo out at the Short Wall last fall with edl. That thing is an absolute beast. If you do not have your technique absolutely dialed, you will get your ass handed to you by a 30 foot 5.10 offwidth. Since its so fuckin' sustained, it got respect from me.

Another one is Orbital Ridge at Poland Hill. 10b #6 friend leavittation until it joins up with Skull. Incredibly pretty. There's a sweet 5.11 offwidth roof boulder problem out at Coyote Rocks that's worth doing if you're there, but its only 2 or 3 moves and then its over. Not really my favorite by any means.

The Warden at the Dungeon though...

I've yet to finish it, but it is soooo good.

The first pitch of Hammer is really good, but at a pretty reasonable grade. I really enjoyed it.

Can you be more specific where that boulder problem is at Coyote Rocks? I'd like to give it a go next time I'm out that way.

d.


petsfed


Apr 9, 2009, 7:53 AM
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Re: [dlintz] What is your favorite offwidth [In reply to]
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Its immediately right (like the crack is formed by another boulder leaning against it) of Heart of Stone. Davin's book says 5.12. I don't think its that hard.


evanwish


Apr 10, 2009, 11:16 PM
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Re: [petsfed] What is your favorite offwidth [In reply to]
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petsfed wrote:
evanwish wrote:
ok so i [only] have a #6, a #9 valley giant and a #4 BB... that good?

any tips or recomendations for this one? I've never really done long offwidths, just a bunch of 20-30' 5.10's and a short section of .11

Get more of the regular cams. BD #5 and 6, or Friends #5 and 6. If you can find it, get an old style (so, non C4) #4 camalot.

thanks man!


Partner angry


Apr 11, 2009, 3:14 AM
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Re: [wishiwasamonkey] What is your favorite offwidth [In reply to]
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Since I last posted to this thread 5 years ago, I suppose an update is in order.

-Amplitude 12a/b, location undisclosed, a changing corners roof requiring a right foot inversion and a couple feet later a left foot inversion. Cool stuff.

-The Creek 3. The progression goes Big Guy, Big Baby, Have a Cow. After that, you know all you'll ever need to know about vertical OW splitters. All three are excellent.

-Crumbling Reality because it's mine, it's awesome, and I'm a little bit proud of it.

-Bellyful of Bad Berries, 13a, Indian Creek. I've come withing one fall of sending it a few times. Climbing long stretches on this thing without falling is just about the most rewarding climbing I've done. I don't know if I'll be psyched or let down when I send it. Probably both.

-Road Warrior on Mt. Evans. As beautiful as it is pissed.


Partner angry


Apr 11, 2009, 3:21 AM
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I just realized I didn't mention a single route in Vedauwoo.

Think of it in parable.

A young man had failing grades but a desire to learn. He hired the best tutor money could buy, a genius in her own right, to teach him. He studied for years and years but he learned. Finally he went on to do great things. Even though he got the credit, deep down, he knew that this was all the direct result of his tutor. He also had lots and lots of scars.


punk_rocker333


Apr 13, 2009, 11:46 AM
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Re: [brutusofwyde] What is your favorite offwidth [In reply to]
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[quote "brutusofwyde"]9th pitch of Magic Mushroom.

Honorable mentions:
East Face Dihedrals on Regge Pole, Little Slide Canyon
Slack Left, Yosemite
Ipecac, Joshua Tree
Horror Frake, Salathe' Wall
Vertical Turtle, City of Rocks
First pitch of Steck-Salathe', for sandbag effect

Brutus[/quote]

What kind of pro was there for Vertical Turtle? That thing looks really awesome and I've never heard of anyone climbing it.


evanwish


Apr 17, 2009, 6:14 PM
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we just went to go climb mt. Williamson and Pratt's crack on the way back... unfortutately though by dad fractured his ankle on the aproach to the mountain so we never got a chance to get on Pratt's Crack Pirate


brutusofwyde


Apr 20, 2009, 1:24 PM
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Re: [punk_rocker333] What is your favorite offwidth [In reply to]
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punk_rocker333 wrote:
brutusofwyde wrote:
9th pitch of Magic Mushroom.

Honorable mentions:
East Face Dihedrals on Regge Pole, Little Slide Canyon
Slack Left, Yosemite
Ipecac, Joshua Tree
Horror Frake, Salathe' Wall
Vertical Turtle, City of Rocks
First pitch of Steck-Salathe', for sandbag effect

Brutus

What kind of pro was there for Vertical Turtle? That thing looks really awesome and I've never heard of anyone climbing it.

Big stuff... Big bros and big cams. I think the #4 Bros were too big, though, because higher I used one on a bolt when I ran out of draws...

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