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razor
Feb 5, 2004, 2:22 PM
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Hey everyone that Trad climbs i was just wonder how many people out there put gear on a gear slings over there shoulder and how many people clip it all or most of it on your harness.... or if you use both and or each one for different situations while climbing lead on trad.... :?:
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coylec
Feb 5, 2004, 2:39 PM
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I currently have it all on my harness. I'm about to get a gear sling, becuase I'm full at the waist, and its getting more difficult to get stuff out. Or, I'll get a new harness with more gear loops. BD's momentum harness is really a sport harness, I think. coylec -- and it will be moved to Trad or Gearheads .... um... probably Trad. Survey sez ...
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scubasnyder
Feb 5, 2004, 2:49 PM
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I usually put all of my stuff on my harness because the gear slings seem to get in the way when i climb, always hanging in the way and annoying me. Thats just my preference though
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rmiller
Feb 5, 2004, 2:55 PM
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I rack on my harness unless doing a squeeze chimney.
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fitzontherocks
Feb 5, 2004, 2:57 PM
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Sling. I've only been trad climbing about a year- year and a half, so I still tend to bring way more gear with me than I need, so I take the full sling. I clip draws to the harness so there's not a lot of extra room there.
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lollipopchic
Feb 5, 2004, 2:58 PM
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I normally put stuff on my harness. I have a gear sling, but I've found I haven't used it much, only on longer climbs or chimney type climbs.
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lstockett
Feb 5, 2004, 3:08 PM
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Nice padded gear sling with multiple loops. I think it's made by Metolius. It makes it easier and faster to swing leads with your partner. Just hand him/her the sling.
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shakylegs
Feb 5, 2004, 3:17 PM
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Like most here, on the harness. Although, and this may be due to ageing bones, I’ll sling the gear on my shoulders for walk-offs, since my hips will kill me after a while.
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oklahoma_climber
Feb 5, 2004, 3:58 PM
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In reply to: Or, I'll get a new harness with more gear loops. BD's momentum harness is really a sport harness, I think. it is. I'm equal both ways... If i can see a lot of right or left hand placement, I'll sling it to the free hand side I need; overhangs are nice for slings because the rack just hangs down below and doesnt pull as much on my center of gravity (waist) becuase the weight is spread out over my chest/shoulder; face climbs or trad/sport mix, I'm usually on the harness because there's less gear banging around everywhere and against the rock in front of me.... just depends on the situation. lstockett did raise a valid point though... a sling is much easier to pass of on a lead swing... just don't drop it!
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dirtineye
Feb 5, 2004, 3:59 PM
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Sling, because you can get stuck in places with the gear on your harness, and to make some moves it is nice to have the option to move the gear from one side of your body to the other. Not just in chimnies or offwidths either.
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smithclimber
Feb 5, 2004, 4:11 PM
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I rack it all on my harness too. Not only that, but I manage to pretty much fit all of the gear AND my tripled over runners on just the two front gear loops. Normally, the only things I put on the rear gear loops are my nut tool, ATC, cordolette, and a few lockers. If I need huge cams or multiple large cams (3"+) then I'll put some on the rear gear loops.... other than that it ALL goes on the front two gear loops. This works because I devised/use a unique way of racking gear. My method ends up saving a lot of space on your gear loops (whether you use all 4 or only the front 2, as I do) in addition to being lighter weight (due to needing fewer carabiners) and requiring fewer number of hand movements (faster) when placing gear. I also rack the gear the same way each time. This also makes it faster since I know where a specific piece is.... no digging around to find that green Alien or whatever. I grew tired of carry gear on a sling a long time ago.... climb a slab...all the gear slides around to the front obscuring your view of your feet. Climb a steep route..... all the gear slides behind you where you can't see it. Climb a vertical route and your knee has to "part" the gear each time you want to step up. As you can tell.... this got old real quick. I don't have any of these problems with it racked on my harness.
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j_ung
Feb 5, 2004, 4:31 PM
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Now don't anybody take this to mean that I think anyone's personal preference is wrong. When it comes down to it, what you're used to is probably the best way to rack, with few exceptions. However, slinged gear has a couple of obvious cons to counter its obvious pros: 1. Ast the angle of the rock changes, so does your center of gravity. If you're used to that, then it's probably OK. But if not, your technique is hosed. This won't do on hard steep lines. 2. On overhanging terrain, slinged gear places your center of gravity generally higher, hence more weight on your arms. Both power and endurance suffer.
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dynoguy
Feb 5, 2004, 4:39 PM
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I put all my pro on the sling and all my runners and draws on my harness. Its great for switching leads.
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stick233
Feb 5, 2004, 4:40 PM
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i started out slinging it, but as i found my own style (not my teachers) i started using the harness. i don't climb real hard trad and i've been the ropegun lately, so when you end up leading each pitch, it's more comfortable with the gear on the harness. but when i'm doing multipitch and swinging leads, i don't think having the gear on the harness is as practical. that's when i use a sling...
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madmax
Feb 5, 2004, 4:51 PM
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On big multi-pitch climbs I rack most of my gear on a sling and keep a smattering of gear on my harness. I always rack draws and runners on my harness. The sling makes it much easier to swing lead on the big climbs. occassionally the sling shifts around and gets in a funky position, but its not usually so bad as to inhibit my climbing. On climbs with a lot of chimneys, a sling is imperative, especially if you don't know which way you're gonna be facing when chimneying. Its much easier to shift the sling around to the other side, then to re-rack all that gear that is on the wrong side in some heinous chimney of off-width.
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aklimerguy
Feb 5, 2004, 5:07 PM
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I used to have a gear sling, but found that it often got in the way. So I clip 3 or 4 cams to one biner, clip 3 or 4 quickdraws together so that only one is clipped on my harness. I've been doing that for the last couple of years. Works good!
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madmax
Feb 5, 2004, 5:14 PM
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I used to clip multiple pieces to one biner, but then I started climbing in the Creek a lot and I quickly changed that practice. Ain't nothing like being in the middle of some relentless tight hands splitter and having to clip a draw to a piece to really pump you out. I guess the decision to rack gear on one biner or on the harness or on a sling is a case by case situation.
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sspssp
Feb 5, 2004, 5:17 PM
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The gear goes on a double gear sling. Pros: a doubled gear sling doesn't flop around. Lots of space to spread things out and stay organized. A double gear slings rides on your shoulders (instead of cutting into the neck like a single). My double gear sling triples as a chest harness and hydration pack. Cons: Can't flip the gear to one side for liebacks/corners/offwidths (but can still rerack it to one side). Can't pass the sling to your partner (but can't drop it either). Hard to adjust clothing layers under the gear sling for climbing (my belay jacket I can wear over the gear sling).
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hema
Feb 5, 2004, 5:19 PM
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I use both methods, if taking the whole rack cams go to the sling (which might be clipped by a lone bine to haul loop to avoid dangling around), and everything else goes on gearloops on the harness. If doing a short climb everything goes on harness (chimneys are the exception, as then I would put almost everything on a bandollier).
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coldclimb
Feb 5, 2004, 5:32 PM
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I keep mine on my harness. Gear on the sides, and draws around back.
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coldclimb
Feb 5, 2004, 5:33 PM
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coldclimb moved this thread from General to Trad Climbing.
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ricardol
Feb 5, 2004, 5:36 PM
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rack on my harness (i dont do squeeze chimneys) .. my harness has 7 gear loops .. more than enough for a trad rack .. .. anyone want to buy a metolious gear sling? -- barely used. -- ricardo
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lordjim
Feb 5, 2004, 6:03 PM
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In reply to: .. anyone want to buy a metolious gear sling? -- barely used. -- ricardo Which style, how much, Shipping and payment type? I think thats everything :)
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mandrake
Feb 5, 2004, 6:04 PM
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I carry cams on the gear sling. Mine is relatively short so it keeps 'em in tight. Then on the front gear loops go nuts and slings. Personally, I hate reaching around to the back gear loops when I'm on lead, so the cordelette, nut tool, tricams (which I mostly use for belays, where they're great for saving cams), and anything else (approach shoes, water bottle) go on the back loops. Works for me, anyway.
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ricardol
Feb 5, 2004, 6:06 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: .. anyone want to buy a metolious gear sling? -- barely used. -- ricardo Which style, how much, Shipping and payment type? I think thats everything :) its the multiple loop metolious (including the extra rear loop) .. you can have it for 50% of retail .. and you pay whatever shipping charges .. (i'll have to go to rei.com to get the pricing) .. .. payment can be made by check -- i'll send you the address if you are relaly interested .. -- ricardo
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petsfed
Feb 5, 2004, 6:13 PM
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Depends on what I'm carrying. Short stuff, or not much for pro, it goes on the harness. Long stuff, pro intensive routes (doubles or triples of most everything for example) and I'll bust out the gear sling. Like wise with offwidths and chimneys, but then I don't usually carry much for those anyway.
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c_kryll
Feb 5, 2004, 6:15 PM
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If I'm guiding or leading all the pitches the gear and slings go on my harness. If I'm flipping leads with a partner most of the gear goes on a sling for easier transitions with the slings still on the harness. Chris
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vegastradguy
Feb 5, 2004, 7:50 PM
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i have started racking on my harness, i have 7 loops plus a haul loop, which is more than enough for a set of cams, stoppers, 6 draws, cordlette, rescue kit, belay device, spare biners, etc. and, since i have so many loops, i can distribute the weight nicely. i still use my chest harness (Yates) on grade iv and up, mostly because i can carry some more crap that i might not normally carry on a grade iii or less. i hate that damn metolius sling, it just bugs me. those seconds that dont have a sling usually get to carry it...i used it once (my first trad lead), and i bought the yates chest harness the next day. (of course, you have to love the leopard print version they have for sale at Galyans....)
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desertgranite
Feb 5, 2004, 8:53 PM
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In reply to: I carry cams on the gear sling. Mine is relatively short so it keeps 'em in tight. Then on the front gear loops go nuts and slings. Personally, I hate reaching around to the back gear loops when I'm on lead, so the cordelette, nut tool, tricams (which I mostly use for belays, where they're great for saving cams), and anything else (approach shoes, water bottle) go on the back loops. Works for me, anyway. Works for me too.
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markc
Feb 5, 2004, 9:56 PM
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As others have said, racking is largely based on personal preference and the type of climb (chimney, layback, slab, etc.). The following is just what I find comfortable most of the time. I rack all of my slings on a padded gear sling, and rack pro on my harness. With six gear loops, I have enough room to keep things organized. Nuts and smaller cams go on front. Hexes and large cams go towards the rear where they're less likely to get in the way. The last two loops are used for belay device, emergency biner and the like. While the gear sling is still free to swing around a bit, it doesn't have the heft of the rack. It's easy to move it out of the way, and doesn't throw off my balance or block my view. Unless you put all of your slings and pro on a gear sling, you're going to do some trading over when you swing leads. Doesn't really matter to me if it's gear or draws as long as nothing's lost. Some of my partners prefer to rack in different ways, so I try to remain flexible. A lot of times it's better to lead in blocks when you have really dissimilar racking methods. Everyone gets their preference, but you're not wasting time at every belay organizing and reorganizing. mark
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coylec
Feb 5, 2004, 10:40 PM
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What kind of harness you got? coylec btw, I win : i predicted it'd be moved here!
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telluryan
Feb 5, 2004, 10:45 PM
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Gear slings. Nothing like getting in a chimney and not being able to get through b/c of gear. nice to be able to clip to daisy and trail behind. Also nice for when climbs switch corners and you can adjust accordingly
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davidji
Feb 5, 2004, 11:02 PM
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In reply to: Like most here, on the harness. Most who've posted to this thread, certainly. I'd be curious to see a poll though. Those get more responses, and may draw from a broader group. Anyway most people I see climbing use a gear sling. Most people I see in the mags (when I look) use their harness. Often very little gear. Either much is preplaced, or they're so good, they don't need much, or the photo may have been largely staged. I use a sling.
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smithclimber
Feb 6, 2004, 3:08 AM
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In reply to: A lot of times it's better to lead in blocks when you have really dissimilar racking methods. Everyone gets their preference, but you're not wasting time at every belay organizing and reorganizing. mark It's virtually always a better idea to lead in blocks, period.
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sfclimber
Feb 7, 2004, 12:19 AM
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Lead gear on multi loop gear sling - easy to hand off when swinging leads - easy access - clean organization Personal gear such as belay device, prussiks, tibloc, water on my harness. If I'm approaching a particularly tough section I'll move the most likely pieces to the easiest access sling loop before continuing.
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markc
Feb 9, 2004, 9:36 PM
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[quote="coylec"]What kind of harness you got? /quote] It's made by Misty Mountain, but I can't recall the name or find it on their website. It's not the super-cush Cadillac, and it sure isn't the Titan. I've had it for a while, so it's probably undergone a redesign and renaming. Their site is http://www.mistymountain.com, if you're interested. mark
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diplodocus
Feb 11, 2004, 3:47 PM
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In reply to: I rack it all on my harness too. This works because I devised/use a unique way of racking gear. My method ends up saving a lot of space on your gear loops (whether you use all 4 or only the front 2, as I do) As you can tell.... this got old real quick. I don't have any of these problems with it racked on my harness. Hi Smithclimber, could you share your method of racking that ends up saving space? Tks
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eduardo
Feb 11, 2004, 4:44 PM
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I rack on a sling for long multipitch routes largely because it is faster to switch at belays and allows more flexability when climbing. On shorter and more difficult trad climbs I try to keep the amount of gear to a minimum and rack on the harness.
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offwidth
Feb 18, 2004, 1:56 AM
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I use a gear sling.
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one900johnnyk
Feb 18, 2004, 2:12 AM
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In reply to: I rack it all on my harness too. Not only that, but I manage to pretty much fit all of the gear AND my tripled over runners on just the two front gear loops. Normally, the only things I put on the rear gear loops are my nut tool, ATC, cordolette, and a few lockers. If I need huge cams or multiple large cams (3"+) then I'll put some on the rear gear loops.... other than that it ALL goes on the front two gear loops. This works because I devised/use a unique way of racking gear. My method ends up saving a lot of space on your gear loops (whether you use all 4 or only the front 2, as I do) in addition to being lighter weight (due to needing fewer carabiners) and requiring fewer number of hand movements (faster) when placing gear. I also rack the gear the same way each time. This also makes it faster since I know where a specific piece is.... no digging around to find that green Alien or whatever. I grew tired of carry gear on a sling a long time ago.... climb a slab...all the gear slides around to the front obscuring your view of your feet. Climb a steep route..... all the gear slides behind you where you can't see it. Climb a vertical route and your knee has to "part" the gear each time you want to step up. As you can tell.... this got old real quick. I don't have any of these problems with it racked on my harness. he showed me the light and i agree completely. did a 5.7 slabby route, couldn't see one foothold with that f'in sling on..
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bustinmins
Feb 24, 2004, 3:34 PM
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In reply to: I rack on my harness unless doing a squeeze chimney. Ditto!
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Feb 24, 2004, 5:25 PM
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my harness is festooned with prussiks, tibloc, free biners, nut tool, rap device, cordellette, etcetera. so ... hardware goes on one sling; runners go on another. besides, i can't climb with gear on my harness. i don't like the feeling of my pants being pulled down. i have enough to worry about without adding to it the thought i might be up there with 6" of ass-crack hanging out.
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a_scender
Feb 27, 2004, 6:07 AM
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I just recently tried racking my draws on a shoulder sling, and keeping the gear on the harness. It keeps less cluster on your harness loops, and the shoulder sling is light and easy to flip out of the way. I don't think racking on a shoulder sling really saves that much time because you still have to exchange biners.
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jonnyb
Feb 27, 2004, 7:24 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Like most here, on the harness. Most who've posted to this thread, certainly. I'd be curious to see a poll though. Those get more responses, and may draw from a broader group. Anyway most people I see climbing use a gear sling. Most people I see in the mags (when I look) use their harness. Often very little gear. Either much is preplaced, or they're so good, they don't need much, or the photo may have been largely staged. I use a sling. I agree. I always thought a sling was pretty much the standard. Everyone I climb with uses one as well. I once heard something weird about how climbing magazines actually prefer people in photos not to wear gear slings. Something about product placement, maybe. I don't really remember who told me that or if it has any validity. But yea, most photos are of people on insanely hard stuff anyway with really specific gear requirements, where a gear sling would be more of a hinderance.
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jgrierson
Feb 27, 2004, 8:21 AM
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Always put my gear on my harness, that way everything is organised and in its place so I know exactly where to find each piece. I find slings a little awkward in that all the gear slides together and I can't always find what I want, personal preference though.
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harihari
Feb 27, 2004, 8:15 PM
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I use a metolius multi-loop slng. Easy to transfer, organised, and keeps weight off my hips (I'm skinny). Draws and slings, water, shoes and jacket go on harness. With partners who use a different system, it's best to block lead. Gear slings are better the taller you are (I'm 6'3")-- the gear stays off your legs more. Disadvantage-- on friction routes, it's harder to see your feet.
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sparky
Feb 28, 2004, 6:35 AM
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sling.
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norushnomore
Mar 2, 2004, 12:10 AM
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[quote="sspssp"]The gear goes on a double gear sling. Pros: a doubled gear sling doesn't flop around. Lots of space to spread things out and stay organized. A double gear slings rides on your shoulders (instead of cutting into the neck like a single). My double gear sling triples as a chest harness and hydration pack. Cons: Can't flip the gear to one side for liebacks/corners/offwidths (but can still rerack it to one side). Can't pass the sling to your partner (but can't drop it either). Hard to adjust clothing layers under the gear sling for climbing (my belay jacket I can wear over the gear sling). What brand/maker do you use for your double gear sling? I started using similar setup this summer and liked it a lot. http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/bigwallgearsl.htm
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rocket
Mar 19, 2004, 4:13 PM
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I think it is just a matter of feel and preference. I broke my right arm in four places when I was younger so I tend to "baby" that arm. Therefore, I'll lock off with my left and set gear with my right. It just puts less strain on me. So, I use the gear sling over my shoulder and put smaller gear up front and larger in the back. I have seen folks with dual shoulder slings, but they're doing something rather tall and they need to carry more than I do. I have also seen folks put all their gear on their harness. They seem to distribute the weight well and it does make some sense, but then you do run into the instance what the gear is you way and you can't move it around/aside like you can with the gear sling.
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abalch
Mar 19, 2004, 5:25 PM
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Posts: 179
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Nut tool, approach shoes, and anchor cordolette on my harness. Almost everything else on my sling, or slung over my shoulder for the runners. Sometimes I will put things temporarily on my harness during a climb, like if I am looking at my next placement, and it looks like it is going to be a right hand on rock, left hand placing gearwith no need to switch myt sling for an extended piece of the route, I will take the likely piece and clip it to the left side of my harness, since I usually sling my gear under my right arm. Last weekend I forgot my sling going out to the crag, and had to carry all my gear on my harness. Worst day of climbing I have ever had. My whole center of gravity was thrown off, and since the routes I was on that day had some chimneying on them, I kept coming up with the wrong gear on the wrong side, and had a difficult time getting to the gear because I couldn't just switch the whole rack to the outside. The sling definitely makes it easier to change out on a multipitch route.
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atg200
Mar 19, 2004, 5:36 PM
Post #51 of 54
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Registered: Jul 27, 2001
Posts: 4317
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harness, except offwidths and squeeze chimneys. when i am aid climbing with a monster rack i use a double gear sling.
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boss
Mar 19, 2004, 6:16 PM
Post #52 of 54
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Registered: Sep 29, 2002
Posts: 235
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On the harness unless in a chimney. Sling makes it easier to swap lead, but my partner is still learning, so yeah...it all stays on my harness unless I run out of room.
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dredsovrn
Mar 19, 2004, 6:23 PM
Post #53 of 54
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Registered: May 24, 2003
Posts: 1226
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Both sometimes. If I can, on my gear loops. If not mostly on my gear loops, and some on the sling. The balance and organization seems better on gear loops, but that isn't always convenient. I have tried a few times with everything on the sling, but it seems cumbersome and difficult to find what I need.
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tahoe_rock_master
Mar 20, 2004, 11:20 PM
Post #54 of 54
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Registered: Feb 25, 2004
Posts: 172
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Definetly a sling. On multi-pitch routes you can switch the rack around. It is also easier to find things on a sling, as well as being easier to deal with. You just pick-up your sling and go. No clipping crap to your harness. Just my opinion Matt
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