Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing:
filling out personal aid rack
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Partner euroford


Mar 15, 2004, 8:34 PM
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Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 2913

Re: filling out personal aid rack [In reply to]
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tons of good advice here.

just to chime in my viewpoint on harnesses, i have both the yates bigwall (very simular to the shield, which i would have prefered, but i got a steal at a local shop) and a cadillac. love the caddy for trad stuff, find the big yates harness to bulky for free climbing, you can do it, but i'd prefer not to.


Partner holdplease2


Mar 17, 2004, 7:33 AM
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Registered: Dec 17, 2002
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Re: filling out personal aid rack [In reply to]
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I did my first wall in my sport harness, which was fine because I never belayed (solo) and never hauled (fix and fire) but would not recommend this if hauling or belaying were required.

Second, in selecting a wall harness, I looked at the Yates Shield and the Yates Bigwall. (cadillac wasn't considered because I saved up for a dedicated aid harness and wanted to go for total comfort).

I did not get the Bigwall because of the awkwardness of free climbing in it. If you look at the topos of aid routes, you will find that a large percentage have sections of free climbing, and many have whole pitches of free. Especially if you are short (I am 5'4") the bulk of the Bigwall may be the last thing you need while you pull these awkward free moves.

I have a shield (after trying a friend's first) and it is plenty comfy for everything yet I can still free climb in it while on aid routes, which is an important consideration.

-Kate.

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Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Big Wall and Aid Climbing

 


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