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Partner xcel360


Mar 26, 2004, 12:21 AM
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Re: Gunks questions [In reply to]
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Photonicgirl, just to point out for ya:

In reply to:
Went up there the other day, drove past teh hairpin tuern past teh p-lot on the left and parked in the one on the right for free cuz there was no ranger....I went over teh bridge and down to the cliffs o nteh right and to the ones on the left....Where can i find a good 5.6 or so to trad climb, being realitively easy to protect and all with a few pitcehs to get back into the season ? thanks

Just did that to point it out to ya cuz you asked, not to make anyone upset, or to not hijack the thread.

And to even add something relevant, mr. nicebooty, if you go down the trail towards the right when it splits, your in the trapps section. There are several 5.6's right there, they pretty much look the grade. There's even a huge polished block called the gertie block that you could set a TR on near the beginning. Have fun.

<=glen=>


photonicgirl


Mar 26, 2004, 12:23 AM
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Re: Gunks questions [In reply to]
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My point is why be quick to judge a new climber a new comer a newbie?

Are we so jaded so perfect so NAMBY that we have to immediately decide that anyone who asks a simple question without presenting his resume of perfect new ascents with photos is obviously beneath our dignity?

How did everyone begin anyway? We began because someone showed us a sweet spot, a new climb, how to tie a knot, how to belay, how to lead, how to place gear and not die, a trail fee to pay, and we paid it then became one of us rather than one of them.

I'm just saying heck, give the guy a break.

Let him join our little special frosty little flake group so he can become one of us and cease to be one of them.

Jules


Partner xcel360


Mar 26, 2004, 12:28 AM
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Dude, you are totally off your rocker. Nobody ever gave the guy a hard time. Curt nearly called him out for not paying for his pass, and that was it. And the truth is mr. nicebooty should've paid the fee, but this has been beaten to death already. Get off your soapbox, becauase 1) your not even following the topic, and 2) nobody cares. I'm going to attempt to ignore the responses now.

<=glen=>


photonicgirl


Mar 26, 2004, 12:29 AM
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I hear ya nicebooty but if there's no ranger who do you call to pay? Was it late in the day?

Dude, I'd like to assume the best of people. I'm sure if they sneak in and don't pay we'll all know about it.

Maybe next time he'll see a ranger, start a conversation and hand over lots of bucks or a few bucks.

Have you ever snuck in anywhere in your whole climbing career?

Jules


piton


Mar 26, 2004, 2:44 PM
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Re: Gunks questions [In reply to]
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In reply to:
In reply to:
In reply to:
Pay yer goddam Gunks daypass fee too. Loser

CURT, highly unnecessary!! i'm sure you have gone w/out paying! plus it's $10 now..

5.4 go do Gelsa Nears excellent. Hawk in the trapps
5.5. jackie, frogs head, horseman
5.6 bunny roof, disneyland, maria

On the contrary. I buy an annual Gunks pass--even in years when I may not get back there to climb. This is private land and someone has to pay for its upkeep. Sneaking in there to climb is just WRONG and selfish. If you think the Gunks is a unique resource to the climbing community, support the Mohonk Preserve.

And, unlike your other advice - all of your route choices here are excellent.

Curt

look i know it's not the right thing to do. i pay for a membership every year and donate to the preserve. i just thought it was wrong to call the guy a loser. if you think about it people always try to get a freebie. it may be setting your tent up after 8pm in camp 4 or avoiding the rangers at the gunks. and yes it is wrong and selfish.


Partner j_ung


Mar 26, 2004, 3:40 PM
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I think the vast majority of those who use the Gunks do pay, be it for a day or a year pass. But make no mistake, when we fork over the cash, we're paying for losers - yes, that's right, LOSERS - who don't. And double yes, if you missed the ranger on day 1, but see him on day 2, you best fork the jing - all of it. Your screwing everybody, yourself included, if you don't.

Though it wasn't caused by deadbeat climbers, Skytop is already closed. The only reason why access to the rest of it is currently secure is because the Preserve makes a little cash. The Gunks is one of the most climber-friendly locales in the country, if not the most. If you've ever spent much time in an area that swings the other way, then you understand how rare and precious such a resource is.

If you pay everytime, regardless, then I salute you. :D You're a responsible resource user. Enjoy your climbs.

But if you're one of the few who tries to sneak in, or even one who "takes advantage of a rangerless day" when the opportunity presents itself, go to hell. Pay up or shut up. :evil:


piton


Mar 26, 2004, 3:56 PM
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i'm sure jung you would have no problem following a "loser" all day if you didn't have a partner to climb with.


Partner taualum23


Mar 26, 2004, 3:56 PM
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Also, just cause I really like giving the benefit of the doubt, he only siad that he PARKED for free. I don't know if they still do this, but I seem to remember buying day passes from the rangers up at uberfall or elsewhere if i parked where there was no ranger. Maybe the guy did pay for a day pass.
But yes, I agree most wholeheartedly that one must pay their way at the gunks.


nicebooty


Mar 26, 2004, 4:18 PM
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Some of you people are frekin wackey. IT was my thrid time up there, i didnt sneak in to climb...therewas no on in the booth so i parked with all the other cars. i guess when i got there and there was no one to pay, i should of turned around and drive the 210 miles back home. forget i even asked a f$ckin question. geez


Partner j_ung


Mar 26, 2004, 4:23 PM
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In reply to:
i'm sure jung you would have no problem following a "loser" all day if you didn't have a partner to climb with.

Actually I do have such a problem, and I wouldn't climb with such a LOSER. If a friend suggested that we try to skip through, I would insist that we not, and have done so before.

The only people who should take offense at my loser comments are the losers themselves. If you pay to play, you da man. If not, you suck. It's that simple.


piton


Mar 26, 2004, 4:36 PM
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only a loser calls another person a loser!
j ung stick the community forum.


outhere


Mar 26, 2004, 4:54 PM
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wow..some of you guys are pretty harsh. everyone has different perspectives so relax and try to make a point instead of putting someone down..


troutboy


Mar 26, 2004, 5:16 PM
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In reply to:
Some of you people are frekin wackey. IT was my thrid time up there, i didnt sneak in to climb...therewas no on in the booth so i parked with all the other cars. i guess when i got there and there was no one to pay, i should of turned around and drive the 210 miles back home. forget i even asked a f$ckin question. geez

No, what you should have done was put your money in the proper spot at the kiosk by the Trapps Bridge. But I suspect since you had only been there 2x and this pay station is a bit obscure, you really did not know it was there :) .

So, next time, you can make good by ponying up a small donation, right ?
Then your karma is back in order.

Seriously, this iron ranger is not the easiest thing to spot, even though it is right next to the trail. And if you go straight from the parking lot to the Nears, or park in another lot, you'll not come anywhere near it. And there are a bunch of ways to get to climbs w/o passing any sign that this is a fee area. I can see if you've never been to the Gunks not realizing you need to pay, but someone who has been there 2X before ?

Anyway, since the pay station is a bit obscure, I say cut the guy some slack. And this coming from a person who hates those who steal by not paying the day fee.

TS


skiorclimb


Mar 26, 2004, 5:19 PM
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I might agree with saying that j_ung is being a little harsh... on the other hand I do like being called

da man!

My new pass just came in the mail, and I'm heading to the Gunks this weekend!

Oh I guess I really should say something pertinate to the tread now. An easy climb to find, that is also easy, is Kens Crack it is right at the uberfall. When at the uberfall, the place with the buliten board, look for a crack that starts atop some easily scrambled boulders. I think it might be 5.7, but you can't screw up the gear unless you are really clueless.

Good luck


troutboy


Mar 26, 2004, 5:26 PM
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In reply to:
Oh I guess I really should say something pertinate to the tread now. An easy climb to find, that is also easy, is Kens Crack it is right at the uberfall. When at the uberfall, the place with the buliten board, look for a crack that starts atop some easily scrambled boulders. I think it might be 5.7, but you can't screw up the gear unless you are really clueless.

Good luck
Just curious. Have you actually led Ken's Crack ? Not exactly what I would recommend for someone looking for good 5.6 routes. Sure, the gear is bomber and plentiful, but a lot of it must be placed from positions that would be considered very stenuous for a 5.7 climb, let alone a 5.6, which is what the guy was asking for (and which this is nowhere near).

Just another point of view...

TS


shakylegs


Mar 26, 2004, 5:30 PM
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Haven't been yet this year, but wouldn't Ken's Crack be a waterfall at this time of year?
And, while a straightforward top-rope, I have to agree that it's a sustained 5.7.


mtnbkrxtrordnair


Mar 26, 2004, 6:15 PM
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Ken's crack was bone dry last sunday. While we were doing it there was huge ice fall behind the "flake" to the left of it and Harvard (route to the right) was a waterfall with some ice at the top.

If you go there tell the ranger you are hiking and save $2. :wink:


Partner j_ung


Mar 26, 2004, 6:32 PM
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In reply to:
only a loser calls another person a loser!
j ung stick the community forum.

Welcome to the club, then. :P

Tell you what, I'll ease off a bit on the loser comments, especially since I think the question of good 5.6s at the gunks is perfectly valid. And you don't have to do anything in return, cause let's face it, your right, I was being a little harsh. Calling someone a loser isn't the best way to communicate. Now don't think this an apology to anyone who sneaks or has sneaked in. Those people have nothing but my disdain.

(Aside: Shouldn't we all be angry at people who sneak in or make no effort to pay? (Gunks newcomers marginally excluded.) They're stealing directly from the Preserve and indirectly from everybody who climbs there, including all of us. I'm sure the rangers would agree.)

As for 5.6s, has anybody mentioned Rhododendron? I was too busy flaming to notice. It's solid 5.6 and easily accessed. However, if you wanna really feel the 5.6 love, it's hard to beat Madame G's. Check out Maria, too, just right of Frog's Head.


shakylegs


Mar 26, 2004, 6:44 PM
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Good call on Madame G, the 2nd pitch is absolutely stellar. IMO, a much-nicer climb than High E, which, if we were being honest, is a one-move wonder. But what a move it is.
Although, if you are to climb Madame G, make sure you don't get suckered into starting Columbia by mistake. Not that, you know, it would happen to me.


Partner cracklover


Mar 26, 2004, 6:58 PM
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In reply to:
Check out Maria, too, just right of Frog's Head.

Maria is a great climb. The corner pitch is very nice - steep but easy climbing on big jugs with plenty of exposure, and the last pitch is absolutely not to be missed - *big* roof with buckets and gear placements in all the right places. Speaking of good crap-yer-pants routes that are easy, check out Yum Yum Yab Yum in the Nears.

GO

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