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xanx
Apr 14, 2004, 2:57 AM
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for most gyms, u can generally subtract 2 to 3 grades from whatever is posted to get a much more accurate picture.
at the risk of sounding like a hypocritical prick, i'm gonna say that that isn't the case at my gym... the only time we rate things is durring comps, otherwise it is all unmarked. and at comps the ratings seem pretty dead on, if not sandbagged. we have things up that even the likes of Matt Bosley (climbs around V13, placed above Dave Graham in a few comps i think) won't even bother trying.
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braaaaaaaadley
Apr 14, 2004, 3:38 AM
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The gym at grey tn. had a 13.a. Hard grades can be achieved with a scarse amount of small, cheap, screw in holds attached to an overhanging wall. nuff said.
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reedcrr
Apr 14, 2004, 4:04 AM
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I have set many indoor gym routes for comps and yes it is very possible to set really hard routes. At most JCCA comps we are setting the harder grades at 13d and the "kids" are still sending and looking for more! The youth of today are going to be very impressive in a few years...I won't be suprised if we see a 16a in the next few years! Wow! :D
I can only send 13c/d on my very best day so I leave the really hard routes to others, 13- is a hard repoint for me and these kids are flying through them! :cry: Trust me when I say the jump from 13d to 14a is a really big jump and going from 13c/d to 14c/d is extremley impressive! This is how far I am from competing with the world's best and that gap makes crossing the Grand Canyon on a slack line seem like child's play.
I have been to world comps and asked the route setters what the top grade on the wall is and the highest I have heard so far is 14b/c. Which is pretty dam hard! And last time I checked not many climbers are onsighting 14's and even fewer are getting the 14c/d either outside or in. When I say a few I mean about 200 climbers in the world are in this realm. Most of the climbers in the world are recerational climbers and hover around 5.10
And to answer the crack about only being able to set plastic to a max of 12c....I hope you were joking. Read the instructions??? You sound like my mother!
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thegodfather
Apr 14, 2004, 4:30 AM
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current project hasnt been sent yet, but rumors are that it will go at .12a/b
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philbox
Moderator
Apr 19, 2004, 5:44 AM
Post #56 of 74
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Hehehe, at our gym we count the number of holds and that is the grade. For instance if a climb has 16 holds on it then that climb is a 5.16b or v16. Beat that. :lol: :lol:
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wyattearp
Apr 21, 2004, 8:45 AM
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well I know Malcom smith has sent 8B+ V14 on his home woodie in scotland! Check out the footage on movementfilms.com
It is called SPLINTER!!!!
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tradman
Apr 21, 2004, 10:01 AM
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Yep, that's right. When Malc did that problem for the film it was the first time in a couple of years that he'd done it. He said it was the hardest problem he'd ever done, which for someone who's done dreamtime and a lot of other seriously scary stuff is saying something!
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tanslacks
Apr 21, 2004, 12:38 PM
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What is a gym?
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blueeyedclimber
Apr 21, 2004, 1:21 PM
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In reply to: we have maybe 5 or 6 12s, most of which are actually 11s... also 2 13s, one of which is actually an '11 (sry routesetters if u are reading this) and the other (completely on a horizontal roof) is actually a 13 (minus) There's also a 14a on the roof, which I have no clue about, but it is definitely harder than the 13- Our boulder problems have gone to maybe V10 basically, it can be a big ego boost to climb at my gym
That's because most of the climbers there climb at Rumney, where most of the routes have 1 or 2 hard moves. I bet all the 12's in our gym have 1 or 2 12 moves. I have tried most of them and it is usually a couple moves that give me trouble. As for that 14a, I have only seen Zeb attempt it and he had to pretty much hang on every move...so yeah it looks pretty tough. I don't claim to even know what a 14a feels like, though.
Josh
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theangryenchilada
May 4, 2004, 7:08 AM
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dude, i set a Grade VI, A4 5.16b/c+ M7 once, but the boss made me take it down cause a nine year old girl got hurt on the ninth pitch when she zippered and fractured her pelvis.
she let the 5.16 pitches no problem, but she couldnt place a copperhead for s#!+.
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wallace
May 4, 2004, 8:06 AM
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That's nothing. My gym has a route with black holds. The move between each is V2 and there are seven of them in a row. Even though it's not been fully linked up yet, no one thinks it's anything less than V14, (although if you're a member of the gym you get a 15 % discount so it would only be V11.9)
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teddy
May 4, 2004, 12:32 PM
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not entirely sure, but a guy who climbs about up to 33/5.14c set one at my gym that he couldn't finish and i didn't see anyone else do more than 2 moves... my gym doesnt grade though so not sure of the rating.
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thegodfather
May 11, 2004, 4:16 AM
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this isnt neccesarily in the gym, but anyone know those posts on the side of the highway going through yosemite? they're all marked V-whatever? well, i went over to the one labeled V-16 and climbed to the top. i freakin rule, i bouldered v-16...
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theishofoz
Oct 28, 2004, 4:38 AM
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our gym has 2 13a's and one b and one c
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hosh
Oct 28, 2004, 5:32 AM
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my gym's never had anything that I know of that's over 5.12. But everyone that's from over town that climbs here says that our ratings are sandbagged. So I guess that our 12's are really like a 12b or a 13-. But maybe not, I've never climbed a 12 anywhere else...
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korntera
Oct 28, 2004, 11:18 PM
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One gym i go to has routes up to 5.12+ and boulder problems around V6-V7 and the other gym has routes up to 5.11D and boulder problems up to V4. But they way under rate their problems at the second gym, i can barely do a V1 there and can do a v3 outdoor, however at the first gym i can do a v4.
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ikellen
Oct 28, 2004, 11:46 PM
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Hardest Route Currently is I believe 13a/b, and the hardest boulder problem is around V9/V10.
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katanaman
Nov 17, 2004, 3:23 PM
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i've seen supposed v11 and v12 inside a gym, they were the "expert" routes...i have no idea if they were around that rating, all i know is they were sit starts and i sure as hell couldnt do a single move on any of them. :?
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vcuspoon
Nov 17, 2004, 3:43 PM
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The hardest I have seen at my gym is 14a, currently we have a 5.13 up right now that is pretty solid.
cheers
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boadman
Nov 17, 2004, 4:18 PM
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Believe it or not, there is a "natural" route (all carved holds) at the Spot (in boulder) that is probably V15. Two parallel vanishing seams, about 20' of climbing, 20 to 30 degrees overhanging. Many very strong climbers have been unable to touch it. It actually looks like a beautiful sick problem you'd see outside.
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labster
Dec 8, 2004, 3:52 PM
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At my local gym the hardest route that I've seen is a 5.12d. One of the staff guys who regularly sends 12b and c says that it's probably a 13a or b though. No once has sent it clean yet including Noah Kaufman (search name) who climbs here quite a lot.
Hardest boulder route is one that's currently up and they said it's a v8 or v9.
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pianomahnn
Dec 10, 2004, 5:25 PM
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Nice to see this thread still gets some play. :-D
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