Anyway, I've been climbing for close to a decade now and it's time for my fat butt to try something new. Since I will never climb over 5.9, nor care too and I've always had an interest in aiding, I've decided to take it up.

#1 What few pieces of gear to you recommend (those must haves)? [remember, all routes here are short so I don't need an El Cap list]

--I have to get a couple of aiders and I have a set of 5-step etriers and two hooks. Not to mention about four and a half sets of nuts, 2 and a half sets of hexes, cams, yadda, yadda, yadda.--

#2 What type of things would you emphasize I practice a lot of (i.e. specific anchoring, certain moves, etc)?

I just need to be pointed in the general direction, a direction that will help simplify (as best can be) my new climbing task. I'm a safe and experienced climber and know the ins-n-outs, but this will be new for me to hang from gear, rather than just using it as a safety precaution.


Steve

I have a partner. No gri-gri. Won't use them/don't believe in them. Seen too many accidents (I do research and writing for a specific book about climbing accidents and the Gri-Gri has contributed to many accidents--but that's another story, isn't it?).

I have a partner. No gri-gri. Won't use them/don't believe in them. Seen too many accidents (I do research and writing for a specific book about climbing accidents and the Gri-Gri has contributed to many accidents--but that's another story, isn't it?).

#1 What few pieces of gear to you recommend (those must haves)? [remember, all routes here are short so I don't need an El Cap list]

#2 What type of things would you emphasize I practice a lot of (i.e. specific anchoring, certain moves, etc)?

you might want to rethink that theory. no way in hell would i let someone belay me on a longish aid pitch without a grigri, and they are also magic for cleaning pitches. if you are dogmatic about gear for no good reasons, you will likely not succeed as an aid climber.

- Knee pads. For work and play.

all aid pitches are long aid pitches when you don't know what you are doing.

the belay would be using a backup? sounds dumb to me. just use a gri-gri - its the correct tool for the job.

The gri-gri is safer than the method you talk of, but you should really get the proper tool (though very expensive, but it's worth it). A soloist or a silent partner....

Using the gri-gri to self belay on aid is a perfect example of someone (any one know who came up with this idea?) employing creative improvisation.

i know, i know. listen, i'm going through some stuff right now...it's hard to explain...just bear with me until you have to bear with me.

Steve, I don't use a gri-gri for soloing neither, I use the S.P.

Different strokes for diff. folks!!!

You most likely will not be soloing right away. However if you do, I suggest you start out on a bolt ladder so you can sus your system out safely.
I started out soloing on a clove hitch on an easy sport route.

I also recommend a DMM belay master locking biner if you use a gri-gri. It also works on other device's, it helps stop the cross loading.


I use adj. daisy only on steep rock, or when I solo a real big wall(saves energy).

And use long nylon daisy the rest of the time.

Rich

Curious - why won't you climb above a 5.9?

I'm not trying to be a butthole, but do you understand what aiding is?

Aid climbing is putting in gear and standing on it. That's it.

If you've never aid climbed, why have you already said that you won't climb harder than A3? Do you even know what A3 feels like?

Here's the deal, man. Many long free climbs are 5.9 and under for the most part. Aid climbing knowledge will allow you to hop on routes that are 5.10 and above and still get up them. Isn't that cool?

Don't listen to all this pass-the-pitons-pete-dick-suckers because aid climbing isn't as hard as they make it all out to be. I fell victim to listening to pete one day (hell, i even bought one of those adjustable fifi's) and it got me no where. In fact, i climbed el cap without using daisy chains!

All you need for aid climbing is three aiders and whatever gear the route calls for. If you're aiding 5.10 free climbs, you may need more than what the rack calls for because since it is a free climb, there will be either mandatory free moves, or sketchy hook placements to get you to the next piece. 5.10 free climbs could involve more tricky aid placements than an A3 route, so be warned.

If you're not planning on doing specific big aid routes like el cap, and you just want to learn how to get up stuff, then here is the most important skill for you to work on:

Learn how to stand on pieces using etriers and then, how to come out of your aiders and back to the free climbing. This is what it sounds like you should be working on...

One important thing you will need for aid climbing is to loose this "only use as the manufacturer recommends" attitude. Anything beyond C1 requires that you be CREATIVE and IMPROVISE and that you still be "safe" while doing it. You have to think for yoursef. In fact that might be the most exciting part of aiding; when the rock gives you nothing that fits the manufacturers recommendations and you figure it out anyway.

Using the gri-gri to self belay on aid is a perfect example of someone (any one know who came up with this idea?) employing creative improvisation.

I have an SP and still use the Gri-Gri for self belay on aid. Works great, and I have to bring it anyway.

What you people have to remember is that what you want is not necessarily what I want. You guys want to aid big walls. I don't . You guys want to solo aid A5. I don't.

As for the Gri gri, I won't belay or be belayed on lead with a gri-gri, but I got one for aid soloing. While the gri gri can fail, that's why any safe soloer will tie a back-up knot below the gri-gri, too. Redundancy in this case is a great thing.

He uses the silent partner. Says there is no better thing. The can't fail like a gri-gri could.

Steve, I can't wait to go to D.L. and freak out all the sport climbers, maybe I should bring the cliff cabana and we could bivy 50 ft. up with some beer.

Did a search and found what a Munter-Mule is. Practicing...

Will probably hang a rope in a tree tomorrow if it's nice, but it's not supposed to be...

Thanks for the insult.

wildtrail,
Absolutely no insult intended. (I can see how you came to that conclusion. Sorry).

You may be portraying yourself inaccurately via this site (???) but you come across as a stuborn, by the numbers, don't tell me what I already know kind of person.

When you ask for advice don't just expect a pat on the back ...or a Step 1,2,3. You can get that from your mom... or a book. The best way to improve at anything is to discover and improve your weaknesses.

P.S. Just to keep my record straight. I have never (and probably never will) climbed A5. Or probably A4 for that matter. For the same reasons you stated about your A2 limit.

Aid climbing at Devil's Lake?!

Now thats exciting. I lived in Chicago and I set up my very first toprope anchor in DL. Was pleased to let my partner test it. ;)

You might really enjoy aiding climbs like american beauty and the stuff in the sandstone area...just don't get your hooks out, cam or otherwise, because this could damage the rock, as could grinding around on small nut placments...remember the sandstone is softer than the rest of the rock in DL. When practicing aid on free lines, please place very high priority on not damaging the rock...this often means practicing your hooking somewhere else...

Also remember that hopping on a trad route to aid it when the crags are crowded is usually considered bad form, as your leads will take awhile at first and those free climbers don't like to wait 4 hours for the classic line of the area.

Have fun, and don't scare the topropers too badly!

-Kate.

#3 I know about the crowded crags and bad form goes both ways. A group of climbers can "hog" a route for an entire day which is just as bad as justsendingits and I spending four hours on one route. Only makinga point though, I'm not like many climbers in Wisconsin. I would never hog a route. Besides, we don't have to go to the most popular areas. There is plenty of Devil's Lake for everybody. Still, the same goes for those that see us on a route aiding.

Nevertheless, I don't dream of inconveniencing anyone and will want to spend a full day on the walls. I have a few, less visited areas we can head to in order to make room for the both of us and the groups that set up camp in the popular areas which is basically Pedestal Buttress to Devil's Doorway. After that, there is plenty of rock for all. :)

pk,

I know what you are talking about. I don't bother with the East Bluff much any more.

However, if you get to the park 15 minutes before open (open is at 6am) the Rangers (if present) won't sneeze at you pulling into the park a little early. They have better things to do than to b*tch about 15 minutes. Get there slightly before or at park opening. It's worth it. Most climbers are late morning to afternoon climber. I've never had any problems getting there that early and getting on anything I desire. Typically, if you start walking at 6am, you'll be to the top of the East Bluff (CCC Trail) at 6:30. Or sooner, as everyone is more in shape than I am. For me, carrying gear it takes 30-40 minutes to stop and rest a few times. Anyway...

Hmmmmm... maybe weekdays are less crowded??

Hmmmmm... maybe weekdays are less crowded??