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photon
Jan 31, 2005, 10:17 PM
Post #51 of 53
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Registered: Jan 31, 2002
Posts: 543
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Flittle,
bob's arms were fine actually some of the burliest healthiest arms i've seen on a human... but the limestone reduced him to water--
On the other side of the specturm, he is a master of the winddouched sherman domes up on that hill though, caught a little bit of him on a "break up" day free solo grudge fest. He was eating those OW's like they were nothin, not even bothering to take names, some very impressive climbing to say the least. Was hard to believe the same guy couldn't do 11a at sinks.
OW masters get no respect though really, he was in the old XC connection and they had a few copies of the cracksman in there, some drippy poor climber dude was in there checking it out cuz it was like $20 cheaper than Heel & Toe. Drippy pulls out some cash to purchase, Bob's eyes light up, he is psyched, drippy picked his book over H&T! Scarpelli asked the guy if he would like him to autograph the book. Drippy looks at Bob with the most unimpressed stare and in an almost offended tone says no. Could totally tell drippy, had no idea who he was addressing. Thought i saw a little tear bead up in Scarpelli's eye... sux to be the OW god doesn't it
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edl
Feb 2, 2005, 7:52 AM
Post #52 of 53
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Registered: Feb 26, 2004
Posts: 134
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In reply to: Edl says you pulled a batman of your TR of Reading Raymond Chandler. Don't lead others to believe that you have done (Redpointed/flashed on LEAD) climbs that you have HANGDOGGED on TR. -Tom
I said what? Fshizzle is my friend, and I don't talk $hit about my freinds. Maybe I'm just being picky here but batmaning would imply pulling on the rope to get through a sequence. Fshizzle did not do this on RRC. We tr'd it together, and we both hung. To Fshizzles credit, he pulled all the moves cleanly. I don't believe he ever claimed to have lead RRC. Also to his credit this was at the end of a several month long hiatus from climbing.
Where do I know you from Tom, and when did I tell you Fshizzle batmanned RRC? Please refresh my memory.
To the original poster. Vedauwoo is a wonderful place to go climbing. Expect to find Lots of excellent continuous cracks and thankfully relatively few bolted faces. The atmoshere is freindly here. There is also lots of bouldering, and particularly lots of wonderful crack boulder problems. That beautiful picture that someone posted is of Scarpellis' "Life Wothout Parole". You should definitely check Vedauwoo out. The best consistent weather is generally foud from around the middle of May through the end of September, but us locals can find times to get out all year round.
Justin
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jaybro
Sep 22, 2005, 6:13 AM
Post #53 of 53
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Registered: Feb 2, 2005
Posts: 441
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An interesting, if weird thread. I don't where to begin. Vedauwoo (please don't call it the 'voo, that's like saying 'Frisco, if you get my drift) has something for every body, lots of quality easy climbs ( a great place to learn or guide) and The best place to learn about flaring cracks. Learn flares from the "Earthborn spirits" Vedauwoo, and long continuous consistent size in the desert and you can climb cracks anywhere, period.
Don't make a mountain out of the Bob-Layne (may he rest in Peace) thing, different approaches, but mutual respect. The Piana/Skinner-Bob thing is more involved, but the principals get along better than you would think by reading these sorts of armchair reports.
Ages? Bob was born in '49, Paul in '54,Todd in '58.
"But hey, Moonsault still needs a repeat, .... What the hell do I know?"
-How many does it need? Including several within weeks of the first ascent. Except for that, Petsfed seems to have an accurate bead on this shit.
"drippy picked his book over H&T! Scarpelli asked the guy if he would like him to autograph the book. Drippy looks at Bob with the most unimpressed stare and in an almost offended tone says no. Could totally tell drippy, had no idea who he was addressing. Thought i saw a little tear bead up in Scarpelli's eye..."
-Hilarious! I never heard this one and I can picture the scene in my mental quicktime.
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