Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing:
Gri-gri for aid soloing
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Big Wall and Aid Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 


a_scender


May 18, 2004, 6:59 PM
Post #1 of 45 (6055 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 24, 2004
Posts: 88

Gri-gri for aid soloing
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Who likes 'em, who doesn't? What are some opinions on using the gri-gri for this kind of climbing? It seems that a lot of people use it this way, does anybody know of any aid soloing accidents involving the gri-gri?


rossgoddard


May 18, 2004, 7:16 PM
Post #2 of 45 (6055 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 18, 2003
Posts: 181

Re: Gri-gri for aid soloing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

i have no experience with using a grigri to aid solo, but in the 2003 accidents in N.A. Mountaineering, there was a guy who ended up factor 2ing while using one for an aid solo on elcap, biner cross loaded and he took a big fall. Dont remember spicifics, but im sure someone has a copy of the book handy to fill it in


asandh


May 18, 2004, 7:46 PM
Post #3 of 45 (6055 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 13, 2002
Posts: 788

Re: Gri-gri for aid soloing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

:)


janiszewski11


May 18, 2004, 8:12 PM
Post #4 of 45 (6055 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 21, 2003
Posts: 57

Re: Gri-gri for aid soloing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I suppose if you don't want metal on metal but still want to use a gri gri you could thread webbing through the gri gri and then attach to the harness with carabiners. Just a thought though.


onelung


May 18, 2004, 8:17 PM
Post #5 of 45 (6055 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 7, 2002
Posts: 436

Re: Gri-gri for aid soloing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Its works fine and with a backup knot perfectly safe. To keep from crossloading just find a beaner that wont. I went thru a shop tested several and found one. An autolocker that if crossloaded shifts and catches correctly. I would tell you what beaner but I am all packed and leave for the Valley in the AM.

Aloha,
bill


lambone


May 18, 2004, 8:27 PM
Post #6 of 45 (6055 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 30, 2003
Posts: 1399

Re: Gri-gri for aid soloing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

The DMM locker with the plastic piece works good too. There are like 10 different threads on evry climbing web site about soloing with a damn gri-gri...do a search.


bigwalling


May 18, 2004, 9:05 PM
Post #7 of 45 (6055 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 28, 2001
Posts: 728

Re: Gri-gri for aid soloing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Just use one of those super strong steel biners and you don't have to worry about these metal on metal things much.


Partner holdplease2


May 18, 2004, 9:14 PM
Post #8 of 45 (6055 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 17, 2002
Posts: 1733

Re: Gri-gri for aid soloing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

What about the metal on the grigri itself? What are folks thoughts of that failing in a cross-loading situation on a steel biner?

-Kate.


bigwalling


May 18, 2004, 9:20 PM
Post #9 of 45 (6055 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 28, 2001
Posts: 728

Re: Gri-gri for aid soloing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

A good steel locker is rated around 70 kNs, a regular locker is in the 20s. If you are worried about cross loading you can always use some duct tape.

I've used a attache (petzl) for a long time. I have never seen it in a cross loaded postiton, NEVER. But shit happens and seemly in the worst of times for some. I've taken a 50 foot fall onto it so metal on metal forget it. I'm far more worried about hitting a ledge.


asandh


May 18, 2004, 9:26 PM
Post #10 of 45 (6055 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 13, 2002
Posts: 788

Re: Gri-gri for aid soloing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

:o


galf


May 18, 2004, 9:44 PM
Post #11 of 45 (6055 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 22, 2002
Posts: 230

Re: Gri-gri for aid soloing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
I know lots of unthinking climbers use the GriGri for ways NOT recommended by the manufacturer, and because they survive a time or two feel its ok. But manufacturers have authorized uses and procedures for a reason.

Again - The Soloaid was specifically designed for solo aid climbing, and it has to do with more than just metal on metal. The soloaid offers a much more reliable lock down than the GriGri does when used solo.

If you can't afford a SoloAid then use the old tried and true clove hitch method. Once you get used sliding the rope through the clove hitch, it goes pretty fast. A lot of us started solo aiding that way.

:cry: Snif! Snif! :cry: You make me cry.... BooHoooHoooo! :cry:

Are you a rep for Wren Industries or are you that tight-assed?

BTW, manufacturers say you will die :twisted:


asandh


May 18, 2004, 10:05 PM
Post #12 of 45 (6055 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 13, 2002
Posts: 788

Re: Gri-gri for aid soloing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

:wink:


galf


May 18, 2004, 11:34 PM
Post #13 of 45 (6055 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 22, 2002
Posts: 230

Re: Gri-gri for aid soloing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
galf:

well I'm definitely too tight for your little pencil, so stop trying to get me interested.

O....K..... You're the one seeing a sexual aspect to it..... Freak!

In reply to:
I get it, 25 and never soloed a day of aid in your life, so your all bottled up.
Wrong, I wish I had pictures to show the opposite, but unlike Chad, I don't go climbing with one (as his peeler pictorial showed).
In reply to:
just give them both a try, take a few whippers on each and get back to me.
I've fallen on a Gri-Gri with a Dmm belay-master, worked damn well. I also fell on a Petzl Attache a couple of times prior to getting tthe Dmm.

I won't try the soloaid (you thought you had a sale, [violet]rep-boy[/violet]...go buy one and compare... :roll: ). I believe this easiness of lowering after a fall is critical if I were to hit something and be somewhat confused.
It ain't easy from what I've been told to lower using a solo-aid.

I use a cloved hitch biner as a backup every 15-20 feet or so.

So, [violet]rep-boy[/violet], it seems you are alone on your little ivory tower while the vast majority of non-big-wall-theorists are soloing on Gri-Gris.

Oh, [violet]rep-boy[/violet], don't use only 2 cam lobes as a placement, the manufacturers say you can't.

[violet]Rep-boy[/violet], stay away from copperheads, they are not CE approuved.. you could get hurt!

I use home-made russian aiders.... what does the manufacturers say about that?!?

I laugh at you, [violet]REP-BOY[/violet]!!! for you are a troll :troll: (a pink one)

Cheers,

Guillaume

edited for spelling mistakes


epic_ed


May 19, 2004, 1:10 AM
Post #14 of 45 (6055 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 4724

Re: Gri-gri for aid soloing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Easy, guys. Let's just have a discussion of the merits/liabilities of the gri gri for soloing. Keep the personal stuff out of it.

I use a gri gri and am full aware of the problems and weakness involved. And I think that's the key -- you need to be aware of the limits and weaknesses your solo system has. Each has its own, and each can be compensated for to a degree, and in the end, the climber needs to decide which risks are acceptable.

I understand the concern about the biner getting cross-loaded. My main concern with using the gri gri is that the attachment point isn't redundant. There's only one hole to clip on the gri gri and only one biner will fit through it. Even with a steel biner, if the gri gri gets cross loaded it can twist and deform the body of the gri gri to the point of failure. We're also well aware of the accident you're referring to on El Cap in '03. That was our very own "Mr. Hardgrit" (Tom) who was the party involved. He experienced the worst type of fall in just about the worst case imaginable -- a high factor fall (nearly factor 2) onto a cross loaded biner. It snapped the biner and nearly twisted the gri gri off the rope. He's alive today because of the backup knot he tied, which must be part of the safety system when soloing with a gri gri.

Soloing with a gri gri and a backup knot tied at proper intervals is safe enough for me.

Ed


imnotclever


May 19, 2004, 5:44 AM
Post #15 of 45 (6055 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 8, 2003
Posts: 10000

Re: Gri-gri for aid soloing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
Even with a steel biner, if the gri gri gets cross loaded it can twist and deform the body of the gri gri to the point of failure.
Ed

It looks to me, from the pictures of the Trango Cinch that it is a little stronger at the connection than the Gri Gri. Has anybody seen these things yet and compaired?

Any thoughts?


tedc


May 19, 2004, 8:18 AM
Post #16 of 45 (6055 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 5, 2003
Posts: 756

Re: Gri-gri for aid soloing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
I know lots of unthinking climbers use the GriGri for ways NOT recommended by the manufacturer, and because they survive a time or two feel its ok.

Who is the "unthinking climber"?; the one who blindly follows the mfgr recommendations or the one who "figures out" a safe reliable way to use a piece of gear to perform a task better.

In reply to:
But manufacturers have authorized uses and procedures for a reason.

Yep. LIABILITY.


Only guessing (but I'm sure I'm right). More people have been hurt/killed using a Gri-Gri in an "authorized" manner than by using it to solo-aid.


ricardol


May 19, 2004, 8:33 AM
Post #17 of 45 (6055 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 11, 2002
Posts: 1050

Re: Gri-gri for aid soloing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

grigri is fine for me for aid-soloing ..

back it up often ..

.. i've taken 5 falls while aid soloing on a grigri .. and all were handled just fine .. one was even an inverted fall .. (almost head first) ..

what i do to make sure i have good chances of survival:

1 - lead on a yates 65mx11mm big wall rope
2 - tie a knot backup ..
3 - use a DMM belay master ..

the last step (dmm belay master) i believe is the weak link in the system .. the little plastic piece would come flying out of the locker if it was ever loaded (i doint think it would help) .. and the DMM locker HAS broken in the past when crossloaded by our own Mr Hardgrit ..

.. so just make sure you tie a back up knot ..

... using a clove hitch to lead would be slower IMO ..

.. all the other methods for solo-aiding are either expensive, bulky, or reequire more gear .. (ie a chest harness) .. so i went for what to me is a good compromise ..

-- ricardo


twoliter


May 19, 2004, 10:27 AM
Post #18 of 45 (6055 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 14, 2004
Posts: 32

Re: Gri-gri for aid soloing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

On an aid route I use a Gri for jugging, belaying, and self belay. Heck If I left it on my rope when I was leading (on belay) I could leave the gri on the rope all day long. It so multi functional.

I use a small steel triangle piece with a screw gate (not a hinged gate) instead of a locking biner to fasten the gri. Its a bit more to set up but I feel if realy minimizes the cross loading issue. That said if you dont lock the triangle manualy it stay totally open. :o

I attach the gri to my belay loop instead of the swamy and leg loops. This lets the gri hang free instead of fixing it in one position. I allso find this lets me pull slack with one hand... TFastening the gri into the belay loop increases your fall potential by a few inches and the gri is a bit higher when jugging.

Allways back up the gri with knots, I use a figure eight on a bite to a locker on my belay loop (under the gri).

I have heard that a gri will not take an upside down fall, any comments on this issue?

I passed a guy bailing off Monkey Face (smith rocks) who had just taken a 40 footer because his SoloAid did not catch, he finally stopped on his back up knot. Or so he said.


ricardol


May 19, 2004, 11:57 AM
Post #19 of 45 (6055 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 11, 2002
Posts: 1050

Re: Gri-gri for aid soloing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:


I have heard that a gri will not take an upside down fall, any comments on this issue?

I passed a guy bailing off Monkey Face (smith rocks) who had just taken a 40 footer because his SoloAid did not catch, he finally stopped on his back up knot. Or so he said.

i took a fall that had me turned over (so i was looking down to the ground, and almost horizontal .. (not upside down .. but turned over and rotated) ..

the grigri stopped just fine .. and righted me ..

scariest falll i've taken! -- sucks to see the ground rushing up to meet you.

-- ricardo


bigwalling


May 19, 2004, 4:32 PM
Post #20 of 45 (6055 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 28, 2001
Posts: 728

Re: Gri-gri for aid soloing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

My 50 footer was a full blown head first fall.

Did anyone ever see that Masters of the Stone with Dano rope jumping with the gri gri?


jello


May 19, 2004, 5:30 PM
Post #21 of 45 (6055 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 20, 2003
Posts: 89

Re: Gri-gri for aid soloing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Thumbs up to the gri :righton:

don't forget to back yourself up!
a steel biner is the call.


megableem


May 19, 2004, 7:37 PM
Post #22 of 45 (6055 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 12, 2004
Posts: 160

Re: Gri-gri for aid soloing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

.


lambone


May 19, 2004, 10:52 PM
Post #23 of 45 (6055 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 30, 2003
Posts: 1399

Re: Gri-gri for aid soloing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

hehehe...that's kinda funny.

uhm, yeah. I like the gri-gri cause you use it for jugging, hauling, rapping, belaying, hanging, out at the anchor and everything else.

One device that does it all is the ticket, less shit to carry down. It has caught me several times, so no complaints. If it ever fails me I'll thow it off El Cap and go clove hitch.

Free climbing kinda sucks with it though, throw out a bunch of slack and hold on tight!


slabbyd


May 20, 2004, 10:09 AM
Post #24 of 45 (6055 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 20, 2002
Posts: 40

Re: Gri-gri for aid soloing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

The Gri-Gri uses folded metal to creat a quasi-multi-directional fall-breaking device. If you cut off the flange of metal to allow easier rope feeding you increase the possibility of it not locking up. Clearly lots of wall climbers use a Gri-Gri and rarely does it result in accidents but the potential for total equipment failure is much higher than other pieces of equipment. I never fully trusted the thing.

I forked out the $$$ for a Silent Partner and love it. In most part because I trust it. One less thing to worry about makes me climb that much better. Rope feed is exceptional as well, a good thing when you need to bust those end of pitch mandatory free moves in less than perfect foot wear.

The down side is the need for additonal equipment for rapping. But once you develop and practice the systems it seems irrelevant. Furthermore I've never noticed the difference between 80lbs of gear and 80lb 6oz of gear!


ricardol


May 20, 2004, 11:14 AM
Post #25 of 45 (5763 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 11, 2002
Posts: 1050

Re: Gri-gri for aid soloing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

gotta agree that busting the free moves with a grigri is one of those heart-stopping moments ..

.. nothing like feeding out 20' of rope through the device prior to moving on 5.6 ground with no pro for the next 20' and wearing hiking boots.. oh ..and carrying a full aid-rack ..

*sigh* -- thats a good time!

-- ricardo


asandh


May 20, 2004, 11:44 AM
Post #26 of 45 (5267 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 13, 2002
Posts: 788

Re: Gri-gri for aid soloing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

:D


glockaroo


May 20, 2004, 12:44 PM
Post #27 of 45 (5267 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 28, 2001
Posts: 149

Re: Gri-gri for aid soloing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Years ago I used the SoloAid a lot for both free & aid. This was long before the GriGri, and I was tired of worrying about the Soloist's inability to catch "windmilling crash dummy" falls. The SoloAid worked fine but I never took a fall on it (that I remember...). I did have problems sometimes in that gear dangling from my rack (especially small wires) would wiggle their way into the small gaps between the rope & its contact point on the SoloAid's cam tail. I can see where a fall in this situation could shred the rope since it's jamming the wire between the cam & the rope.

I switched to the GriGri about 5 years ago and its been great. I think it works well enough to trust, and I love the multifunction capability. I have taken 1 or 2 short falls on it and it worked fine, though it was a bit hard to un-cinch. Maybe that's because I weigh 215lbs. w/ no gear on...http://www.goobage.com/pics/smilies/agree.gif

I think some of you guys need to refine your concept of a solo device's reliability. I think you need to assume your primary device will fail, then think "...ok, now what?". Back up your primary, and be willing to bet your life on the backup. "Two is one, and one is none".


epic_ed


May 20, 2004, 1:49 PM
Post #28 of 45 (5267 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 4724

Re: Gri-gri for aid soloing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
It looks to me, from the pictures of the Trango Cinch that it is a little stronger at the connection than the Gri Gri. Has anybody seen these things yet and compaired?

Any thoughts?

Don't know. Haven't seen one or heard of anyone who has tried one yet. Anyone want to be a guine pig and report back to us?


youarealarry


May 20, 2004, 3:11 PM
Post #29 of 45 (5267 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 20, 2004
Posts: 1

Re: Gri-gri for aid soloing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

So now that you have at least 20 comments, now what? GriGri or No GriGri. Maybe you should stick to Sport Climbing Larry! But then what, GriGri or Hip Belay?


a_scender


May 22, 2004, 4:31 PM
Post #30 of 45 (5267 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 24, 2004
Posts: 88

Re: Gri-gri for aid soloing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
GriGri or No GriGri. ?

I've already tried the grigri and wanted some advice from folks with more experience. This thread achieved that, thanks a lot everyone for thier info. It sounds to me like a grigri is certainly good enough for the easy c1 climbs I'll be doing. With a back-up of course.


jimmyv


May 24, 2004, 2:32 PM
Post #31 of 45 (5267 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 24, 2003
Posts: 33

Re: Gri-gri for aid soloing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

ok, i've got a gri-gri and cut off the flap for easy feeding. then i heard that in a fall, the rope can wrap around the arm of the gri-gri and because the bottom side is relatively sharp, cut the rope. this would mean death, rather than a fall to a back up knot. what do people think?


epic_ed


May 24, 2004, 2:56 PM
Post #32 of 45 (5267 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 4724

Re: Gri-gri for aid soloing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I don't like the gri gri modification. If it's done the way I think you're refering to, it's much less likely to hold an upside down fall, too.

Ed


brianinslc


May 24, 2004, 3:05 PM
Post #33 of 45 (5267 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 13, 2002
Posts: 1500

Re: Gri-gri for aid soloing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
Who likes 'em, who doesn't? What are some opinions on using the gri-gri for this kind of climbing? It seems that a lot of people use it this way, does anybody know of any aid soloing accidents involving the gri-gri?

I like a gri gri for aid soloing and top roping solo too (where I tie a back up knot to keep me off the ground should the unthinkable happen).

I use a DMM belay master and actually use the plastic thingy (feller that busted his belay master in Yos didn't use the plastic keeper thingy...doh!). Makes sense to me as the gri gri seems to minor axis load pretty easily (mine crawls all up and down a biner spine if I don't trap it in the small end of the biner). Usin' back up knots makes a bunch of sense.

Haven't heard of any accidents.

Handy device. Easy money for rappin' back down a pitch, whether to clean, or climb another lap.

Brian in SLC


Partner tattooed_climber


May 24, 2004, 3:52 PM
Post #34 of 45 (5267 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 13, 2003
Posts: 4838

Re: Gri-gri for aid soloing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

christ....you know what the gri-gri was designed for.???? SINGLE PITCH SPORT!!!!...only ment for thaT!!...I 'CAN' be used for other things but i use the word 'can' very loosely

ok, if youre going to solo-aid, use something thats 'designed' for solo-aiding....the silent-partner, solo-aid, or the soloist...

its just smarter...don't cheap out when it comes to your safety


epic_ed


May 24, 2004, 4:08 PM
Post #35 of 45 (5267 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 4724

Re: Gri-gri for aid soloing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
christ....you know what the gri-gri was designed for.???? SINGLE PITCH SPORT!!!!...only ment for thaT!!...I 'CAN' be used for other things but i use the word 'can' very loosely

ok, if youre going to solo-aid, use something thats 'designed' for solo-aiding....the silent-partner, solo-aid, or the soloist...

its just smarter...don't cheap out when it comes to your safety

Do you solo aid? Have you tried it? Your argument has been posed by many before you and it has been agreed time and again that aid climbing is the mother of all improvised devices. Many of us aid climbing because we love testing and trying weird stuff that no one has ever thought of using to make upward progress. Petzl has strict guidelines and parameters about "intended use" becasue of liability. The pros and cons of using a gri gri for solo aid are well documented and no one (especially after this thread) should be in the dark about them.

Tom started another thread about gri gri accident statistics, and while it's only anecdotal evidence, I think you'll be hard pressed to find anyone who has had accident while aid soloing that could have been prevented if the soloist had been using a different device. Climbing is dangerous. Aid climbing is dangerous. Aid soloing is dangerous. I don't give a damn what Petzl officially recommends you use the device for. A gri gri is a fairly simple device to understand and I know what it is capable of and what it's not, and that's the criteria I'm going to use to determine what I'll use as my soloing belay device. It has nothing to do with dollar and cents.

Ed


capn_morgan


May 24, 2004, 5:15 PM
Post #36 of 45 (5267 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 7, 2003
Posts: 565

Re: Gri-gri for aid soloing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

hey Ed. Malcom Daly was at the Eastern Climbers Rendezvous with a couple prototypes of the cinch. It looks really nice. same basic idea as a the gri gri with alot less parts. Weighs less and is a bit smaller too. It sounds like they have been trying them out as rope soloing devices and that it works quite well without being modified. They are supposedly making a Titanium version as well....I dont even want to know how much that will cost :shock:


epic_ed


May 24, 2004, 7:35 PM
Post #37 of 45 (5267 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 4724

Re: Gri-gri for aid soloing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Looking forward to seeing the production model. Any idea when it will be available? How's Malcolm recovering, BTW?


glockaroo


May 25, 2004, 6:25 AM
Post #38 of 45 (5267 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 28, 2001
Posts: 149

Re: Gri-gri for aid soloing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
hey Ed. Malcom Daly was at the Eastern Climbers Rendezvous with a couple prototypes of the cinch. It looks really nice. same basic idea as a the gri gri with alot less parts. Weighs less and is a bit smaller too. It sounds like they have been trying them out as rope soloing devices and that it works quite well without being modified. They are supposedly making a Titanium version as well....I dont even want to know how much that will cost :shock:

Definitely looking forward to seeing those units.


lambone


May 25, 2004, 9:13 AM
Post #39 of 45 (5267 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 30, 2003
Posts: 1399

Re: Gri-gri for aid soloing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
christ....you know what the gri-gri was designed for.???? SINGLE PITCH SPORT!!!!...only ment for thaT!!...I 'CAN' be used for other things but i use the word 'can' very loosely

ok, if youre going to solo-aid, use something thats 'designed' for solo-aiding....the silent-partner, solo-aid, or the soloist...

its just smarter...don't cheap out when it comes to your safety

whatever dude, shut up. it works and that's what matters.

you obviously haven't had the Petzl clinic at the MEC you work at, am I right? when you do ask the rep what other applications the gri-gri is approved for other then "single-pitch" sport climbing. I'm sure he/she will give you a looong list. (although solo belay probly isn't on it, but I have talked with Petzl reps who've admitted to me that they use it themselves for aid soloing.)


coomer


May 30, 2004, 6:48 AM
Post #40 of 45 (5267 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 30, 2004
Posts: 20

Re: Gri-gri for aid soloing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

[quote="lambone
whatever dude, shut up. it works and that's what matters.
Nice little tempter there...

I've used the gri-gri to solo-aid/free. Don't like it. Too many draw backs that I'm not comfortable with. The only time I still use it is doing walls in a push caterpiller style where I may have to solo-aid a short stretch. Long walls- solo-aid- would use the silent partner if I could afford one. But I've used the solo-aid extensively and it is hands-down better than the gri-gri for aid. It's light, compact and pretty much fool-proof. No chance of cross loading, feeds relatively well once you get the hang of it. I've taken up to a 50' ride on it and no problems catching a fall. You're up there for days, why take the chance on the gri-gri when there are at least three other methods that DON'T have the same kind of draw-backs and possibilities for failure?

Now, soloing on a "modified" gri-gri is just asking for the chop... lots of stuff out there showing the serious dangers of modifying the gri-gri and soloing with it. Yikes.

But as I said, there is still one instance where I will solo with the gri-gri, but that is only for very short stretches.

Cheers
e


galf


May 30, 2004, 8:12 AM
Post #41 of 45 (5267 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 22, 2002
Posts: 230

Re: Gri-gri for aid soloing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
But as I said, there is still one instance where I will solo with the gri-gri, but that is only for very short stretches.

:roll: Oh, I guess you didn't figure that a very short stretch off the belay can result in high fall-factor falls... So, if you think this is ok, then you should have no problem going higher up.

As stated before, the ability to quickly and safely lower yourself is a major strenght of the grigri.


moeman


May 30, 2004, 10:56 AM
Post #42 of 45 (5267 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 1, 2002
Posts: 1417

Re: Gri-gri for aid soloing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
Nice little tempter there...

Yo momma is a nice little tempter...


coomer


May 30, 2004, 4:40 PM
Post #43 of 45 (5267 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 30, 2004
Posts: 20

Re: Gri-gri for aid soloing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
In reply to:
But as I said, there is still one instance where I will solo with the gri-gri, but that is only for very short stretches.

:roll: Oh, I guess you didn't figure that a very short stretch off the belay can result in high fall-factor falls... So, if you think this is ok, then you should have no problem going higher up.

As stated before, the ability to quickly and safely lower yourself is a major strenght of the grigri.

Short stretches, meaning I'm not doing a whole hell of a lot of climbing with it... 20' of aid/free soloed on a gri-gri is a whole lot different than trusting it over 2,000' of climbing...

As stated over and over again (why am I bothering?), there are MANY draw-backs to the gri-gri. I, personally, don't think the pros outweight the cons.

Fuck, use it if you want, I don't fucking care. I'm just pointing out that there are MANY other options that are better overall. The gri-gri has its time and place- but soloing a wall with one just isn't the *best* choice.

Cheers
e


flamer


May 30, 2004, 7:39 PM
Post #44 of 45 (5267 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 22, 2002
Posts: 2955

Re: Gri-gri for aid soloing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I know nost of you guys are to cheap(or just don't have the bread) to fork over for the SILENT PARTNER. BUT! Having tried the clove hitch, the grigri, and now the silent partner. I'd say the SP has no equal.


josh


potreroed


May 31, 2004, 12:21 PM
Post #45 of 45 (5267 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 30, 2001
Posts: 1454

Re: Gri-gri for aid soloing [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I love my gri-gri, but not for self belaying. Tried it and didn't care for it.
Will stick with my Soloist.


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Big Wall and Aid Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook