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needmoregear
May 20, 2004, 6:29 PM
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looks pretty bomber to me.
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mwbtle
May 20, 2004, 6:33 PM
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this one is much less obvious...and one of the issues with it has to do with anchoring restrictions at Peterskill...
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bubba
May 20, 2004, 6:34 PM
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How 'bout the knot from the cord slung around the tree is inside the biners.
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bubba
May 20, 2004, 6:36 PM
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How 'bout the knot from the cord slung around the tree is inside the biners.
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jeffstephan
May 20, 2004, 6:36 PM
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Perhaps the cordelette knot coming from the tree point is inside the beaner which could result in opening the gate? :?
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monopocketmojo
May 20, 2004, 6:37 PM
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not an optimal set-up with the thin trees and the knot in the biners, but certainly not nearly as bad as the other pic that's going around. for you guys, what diameter tree is the minimum that you would anchor to? that one looks small, but i might still use it if it's better than any other cracks or rocks around.
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jeffstephan
May 20, 2004, 6:38 PM
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damn...I'm as slow as this computer :D
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kimmyt
May 20, 2004, 6:38 PM
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Don't anchor off pitch pines at PK!!!
I bet you were furious at this one, Tai....
K.
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monopocketmojo
May 20, 2004, 6:39 PM
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you can't tell what knot it is...what, an overhand?
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taualum23
May 20, 2004, 6:40 PM
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1) Is directly off tree- a no-no at PK. There is no padding around the rtree, etc.
2) Knot is inside the biner.
Besides that, look decent.
What else?
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mwbtle
May 20, 2004, 6:40 PM
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In reply to: Perhaps the cordelette knot coming from the tree point is inside the beaner which could result in opening the gate? :?
I think actually its more a problem with the knot coming undone than a possible gate opening.
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ben87
May 20, 2004, 6:45 PM
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it's an over hand on a bight.
now what's the deal with pitch pines at peterskill?
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elron
May 20, 2004, 6:48 PM
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T, I'll bite... is the knot an EDK? I can't tell if the two strands hanging down are two individual strands or a loop.
It also looks like the cam on the right may be under-cammed, but from this angle i really can't tell. i'm sure we can find a few things wrong with just about any anchor, but this looks pretty bomber. I love how in some of JL's anchor books, in the "Con" section of an anchor description he'll state something like "The flake is loose", or "The block is hollow". How do we tell that from a picture?? :)
Also, could someone PM me about the whole pitch pine thing at PK? I'm sure its been discussed here before, but i'm not familiar with it and don't want to derail this thread. On the contrary, I'd love to see more threads like this. JL's anchor books are so great because of this approach... showing REAL anchors. Maybe we can get some "good" anchors to critique too... a lot can be learned from good anchors as well as bad
Kevin
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taino
May 20, 2004, 6:50 PM
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In reply to: 1) Is directly off tree- a no-no at PK. There is no padding around the rtree, etc. 2) Knot is inside the biner. Besides that, look decent. What else?
3) Overhand knot with no backup, instead of grapevine knot.
Trees in general are okay, as long as you do it as a back-up piece and pad the tree. They still don't like it, but they understand it.
Pitch pines, however, are strictly and completely off-limits. Under no circumstances are there to be any anchors built with pitch pines, according to the Minnewaska rangers. Seeing as how they control our access, I think it best to humor them. :roll:
T
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kimmyt
May 20, 2004, 6:51 PM
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And from what I noticed, the few times I was at PK, most of the trees that are close to the edges and in decent location for anchoring seem to be pitch pines....
K.
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monopocketmojo
May 20, 2004, 6:51 PM
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this has been a fun test to see how much we'll let slide because we're not paying attention close enough or want to skimp to get climbing faster...i'm gonna die young.
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oafy
May 20, 2004, 6:55 PM
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Dude these are great topics, gets you thinken about proper anchor set ups. Keep them comin, gets people involved and makes them realize you gotta watch up when you jump on other people's top-ropes at the local crag!.
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taino
May 20, 2004, 6:59 PM
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In reply to: T, I'll bite... is the knot an EDK? I can't tell if the two strands hanging down are two individual strands or a loop. It also looks like the cam on the right may be under-cammed, but from this angle i really can't tell. i'm sure we can find a few things wrong with just about any anchor, but this looks pretty bomber. I love how in some of JL's anchor books, in the "Con" section of an anchor description he'll state something like "The flake is loose", or "The block is hollow". How do we tell that from a picture?? :) Also, could someone PM me about the whole pitch pine thing at PK? I'm sure its been discussed here before, but i'm not familiar with it and don't want to derail this thread. On the contrary, I'd love to see more threads like this. JL's anchor books are so great because of this approach... showing REAL anchors. Maybe we can get some "good" anchors to critique too... a lot can be learned from good anchors as well as bad Kevin
Kevin, the knot is an overhand on a bight - a European Death Knot, or EDK. They need to be backed up with another overhand right behind it, or they will roll. Ironically, the backed-up EDK is my favorite rappeling knot.
I'll drop you a line about the pitch pines...
T
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needmoregear
May 20, 2004, 7:00 PM
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why does it have to be a grapevine? there is nothing wrong with the EDK. hell, backing it up kind of defeats the purpose of using it on repels.
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taino
May 20, 2004, 7:02 PM
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In reply to: it's an over hand on a bight. now what's the deal with pitch pines at peterskill?
The simple answer: the pitch pines at PK are protected, as they're the largest inland stand of pitch pines in the northeast or some junk. Do not use them as any part of an anchor.
And Kimmy remembers correctly - unfortunately, the majority of trees at the edges of the cliffs are pitch pines.
T
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taino
May 20, 2004, 7:05 PM
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In reply to: why does it have to be a grapevine? there is nothing wrong with the EDK. hell, backing it up kind of defeats the purpose of using it on repels.
I personally prefer the EDK for rappeling. Not, however, for using in a TR anchor.
Read THIS, from the Gunks.com board; it's regarding various rappeling knots. The EDK will roll back on itself, tightening the whole time - that's why you need to leave 2-3' tails when using it. You can also just back it up with another overhand, right up against the first knot.
The grapevine is static. It doesn't roll, it doesn't shift. Good, therefore, for a SRENE anchor.
T
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