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11 Year Old Points 14a
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kalcario


Jun 7, 2004, 4:18 AM
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11 Year Old Points 14a
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I don't know what the previous youngest send of a 14a was, but surely Adam Ondra of the Czech Repub. shattered whatever the record was by sending Baby Basher (8b+) at Kochel, Germany. The mind boggles.

from 8a.nu


nmoroder


Jun 7, 2004, 4:27 AM
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good god... amazing.


ikefromla


Jun 7, 2004, 4:38 AM
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was this any surprise? ondra sends everything.. i thought he climbed 14 a long time ago.. whatever, i know some euro 13-year-olds have.. and daniel woods, of the good old us of a, sent the 7 pm show last summer, just before his 14th birthday. i think pringle was 14 when he sent the grade.


kalcario


Jun 7, 2004, 5:08 AM
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*whatever, i know some euro 13-year-olds have*

like who...I'm saying 7pm Show was the previous record


roughster


Jun 7, 2004, 5:40 AM
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roughster moved this thread [In reply to]
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roughster moved this thread from General to Sport Climbing.


njari


Jun 7, 2004, 5:50 AM
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Wow. Does anyone have a pic of this kid?


b3a


Jun 7, 2004, 6:11 AM
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http://www.czechclimbing.com/...r=&ctem=&nser=&ntem=.

there is a video of him climbing too!


mingleefu


Jun 7, 2004, 6:31 AM
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In reply to:
http://www.czechclimbing.com/...r=&ctem=&nser=&ntem=.

there is a video of him climbing too!
In reply to:
"Q: How did your climbing performance evolve over the years? When did you start to lead climb?
A: I have been climbing on the more interesting end of the rope since I was seven...[emphasis]

Q: What is your goal in climbing?
A: I would prefer to keep this to myself.

I think I like this kid.


climbsomething


Jun 7, 2004, 7:01 AM
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23 year old gives a shit


overlord


Jun 7, 2004, 9:14 AM
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now, thats something.


cyborg_corp


Jun 7, 2004, 9:19 AM
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Whoah, now that's inspiration for a 16 year old like me.


jman


Jun 7, 2004, 11:36 AM
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wow


overlord


Jun 7, 2004, 12:22 PM
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In reply to:
Whoah, now that's inspiration for a 16 year old like me.

or a reason to cry for a 21y old like me :wink:


hoppinbig


Jun 7, 2004, 1:22 PM
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Yeah but can he drive a car?


Partner drrock


Jun 7, 2004, 2:47 PM
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I am so old.


climb_plastic


Jun 7, 2004, 4:11 PM
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Climbing 14s puts him among the best climbers in the world. The fact that he's among the worlds best at 11 years old puts him out of this world.


tech_dog


Jun 7, 2004, 4:57 PM
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My 5 year old does 5.7s top roped. It's hilarious to watch.

Kids are natural climbers.


miuralover


Jun 7, 2004, 5:10 PM
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In reply to:
*whatever, i know some euro 13-year-olds have*

like who...I'm saying 7pm Show was the previous record

Sean McColl was 12 when he redpointed Pulse - 5.14a. That was the previous record I believe, could be wrong.


Partner calamity_chk


Jun 7, 2004, 5:19 PM
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Yeah but can he drive a car?

and can he drink beer?


crimpandgo


Jun 7, 2004, 5:21 PM
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He sounds pretty mature for his age. That write-up about what motivates him. either it was edited by someone older or he is definitely mature for his age. I have an 11 year old and its definitely not the style of a kid that age. reads like an adult.

of course its to be expected. The kid is climbing beyond his age. Stands to reason his public presence would be beyond his age as well. Kudos to him. :D


crshbrn84


Jun 7, 2004, 6:57 PM
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this is nuts, yesterday i watched a 9 year old girl climb a 5.11a, like before on this thread kids are natural climbers.


mtnbkrxtrordnair


Jun 7, 2004, 7:05 PM
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Do you have a picture of his sister. She should be looking pretty hot right about now. :wink:


wyattearp


Jun 7, 2004, 7:29 PM
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In reply to:
Yeah but can he drive a car?
IM SURE he can drIVE, WHO KNOWS if its legal though!


monkeyarm


Jun 7, 2004, 7:30 PM
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but what are the odds that he will stay that good as he develops? As his body develops he is gonna put on alot of weight that could severly inmpact his climbing. Most kids can pull ridiculously strong, i work at a climbing wall at a day camp and see it daily, but they have no technique. This is still impressive, but I think this is more the result of the rarity of someone that young having 7 years of climbing experiance rather than an ability that is incedibly unique. If more children climbed starting at 4 this would be seen much more often.


thrasher


Jun 7, 2004, 7:53 PM
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So what?! Give him a pack and an ice axe and a lightning storm or blizzard at high altitude and we'll see what he's made of then.


ninjaslut


Jun 7, 2004, 8:08 PM
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Yeah, but I could take him in a fight.


sdwoods


Jun 7, 2004, 8:16 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
*whatever, i know some euro 13-year-olds have*

like who...I'm saying 7pm Show was the previous record

Sean McColl was 12 when he redpointed Pulse - 5.14a. That was the previous record I believe, could be wrong.

The previous record was 12 and it was shared by David Lama (Austria), Balint Kamvas (Hungary) and Sean McColl (Canada).

For country records, there is Daniel Woods (USA) at 13, and Eric Scully (USA) also at 13.

There are other records likely to be broken soon, such as youngest 8c (5.14b) ascent. The way Adam is climbing, he is likely to break them all someday.

Records are meant to be broken... that's the climber's way.

Kudos to Adam Ondra... very nice job!

Steve Woods


rockzen


Jun 8, 2004, 3:22 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Whoah, now that's inspiration for a 16 year old like me.

or a reason to cry for a 21y old like me :wink:

No worries dude. Just look at me... see yourself in 10 years. Errrr... ya... :lol: Well, its not all bad... just keep climb'n.

Dave...


badass


Jun 8, 2004, 3:31 AM
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Don't get offended but that is a f---ing joke. If I couldn't onsite that i'd shoot myself. It looks cool and all but itd be about 5.12 in the States.


ikefromla


Jun 8, 2004, 4:12 AM
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In reply to:
The previous record was 12 and it was shared by David Lama (Austria), Balint Kamvas (Hungary) and Sean McColl (Canada).

For country records, there is Daniel Woods (USA) at 13, and Eric Scully (USA) also at 13.

There are other records likely to be broken soon, such as youngest 8c (5.14b) ascent. The way Adam is climbing, he is likely to break them all someday.

Records are meant to be broken... that's the climber's way.

Kudos to Adam Ondra... very nice job!

Steve Woods

Steve,
thanks for setting the record straight. Did Dan recover OK after the PBB? :lol: See you in Denver.
Isaac


tech_dog


Jun 8, 2004, 4:15 AM
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This is the one that gets me:

http://www.czechclimbing.com/...adamo/adam-stena.jpg

I don't know about you, but I need just a bit more rubber on the rock before I can hang from a two finger pinch.


b_fost


Jun 8, 2004, 4:16 AM
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Don't get offended but that is a f---ing joke. If I couldn't onsite that i'd shoot myself. It looks cool and all but itd be about 5.12 in the States.

so i see this post, the star trek quote in his sig, and the spray in his profile....and i think what a punter. then i see his climbing record... :lol:


gravitychaser


Jun 8, 2004, 4:20 AM
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No way! The photo is faked! He is really crawling along a flat rock.
Also, it looks like he is climbing in nothing but a pair of Speedos. The height of euro climbing fashion.

All jokes aside, that is pretty impressive.

Jason.


sdwoods


Jun 8, 2004, 4:20 AM
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In reply to:
Did Dan recover OK after the PBB? :lol: See you in Denver.
Isaac

Let's just say he's not a redbull fan. Great learning experience, though! :oops:

Good luck at Divs!


scubasnyder


Jun 8, 2004, 5:03 AM
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that kids an animal its not fair, i wish someone started me climbing that young.


ikefromla


Jun 8, 2004, 6:21 AM
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Let's just say he's not a redbull fan. Great learning experience, though! :oops:

Good luck at Divs!
it's all learning experience man. and thanks. :wink:


climbsomething


Jun 8, 2004, 6:31 AM
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In reply to:
This is the one that gets me:

http://www.czechclimbing.com/...adamo/adam-stena.jpg

I don't know about you, but I need just a bit more rubber on the rock before I can hang from a two finger pinch.
Uh, is that Prana's new line of loincloths?

If I were Michael Jackson, I'd be getting all hot about now.


blackjack


Jun 8, 2004, 7:33 AM
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Really ? :shock:

Is it possible ? :?:

If yes THIS IS REALLY SOMETHING ! and i guess this is the time for us to retire :lol:


scuclimber


Jun 8, 2004, 8:54 AM
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So if I had that little body fat... and that high of a strength to weight ratio...I definitely couldn't climb 5.14. :wink: Although I do wish I started climbing rock at the age that kid started.

Colin


girlclimb


Jun 10, 2004, 2:45 AM
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Wow, that kid is amazing...just absolutly amazing!


crux_clipper


Jun 10, 2004, 2:55 AM
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just wait till he discovers booze!! he'll be climbing twice as good the morning after 12 beers and a quick root in his tent at the campsite......


robmcc


Jun 10, 2004, 2:16 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Whoah, now that's inspiration for a 16 year old like me.

or a reason to cry for a 21y old like me :wink:

Bah, I don't agree. Strength to weight ratio. I don't personally put much in youngest-to-climb-foo records. Kids have an edge in most things that matter most in climbing. Some sports simply reward the physical attributes that go along with not having attained adulthood yet. Climbing is one of them.

Clearly he's really, really good and far better than I'll ever be, but am I surprised that a 11 year old climbed a 14a? No.

Rob


needmoregear


Jun 10, 2004, 2:39 PM
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climbing hard is all about strength to weight ratio. children definitely excel at this because they haven't hit puberty yet and the corresponding increase in muscle mass that accompanies it. i am not saying the ratio can't be maintained, just that is definitely an obstacle to over come.

as more and more kids pick up the sport, we may see a natural hump in the age vs. performance curve like there is in gymnastics.

or i could be just blowing smoke out my ass. just rambling....


mdc


Jun 14, 2004, 12:28 AM
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that kid is amazing.

i wish i had started climbing before last august (age 23). :(


andy_reagan


Jun 14, 2004, 1:22 AM
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In reply to:

am I surprised that a 11 year old climbed a 14a? No.

Rob

I'm surprised when anyone can climb a 14a, that takes a lot of hard work, regardless of strength to weight ratio. I would stop analyzing it as closely, if I were you, rob! :lol:


drubt


Jun 14, 2004, 1:36 AM
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i think there is something to be said for the sizes of the holds too. half pad crimpers for bigger hands turn into full pad open hands for smaller hands. none the less he pulls harder than i do...


Partner coylec


Jun 14, 2004, 2:29 AM
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it really just makes me sad. like those gymnists who peak at age 14, and are has beens at 18. climbing is going there really fast.

that said, kid can climb. I'll buy him a beer ... in 10 years.

coylec


musicman


Jun 14, 2004, 3:35 AM
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Whoah, now that's inspiration for a 16 year old like me.

i couldn't agree more!


musicman


Jun 14, 2004, 3:46 AM
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after looking at the pictures, all i can say is

THATS NUCKING FUTS!!!


manicacrophilic


Jun 14, 2004, 4:03 AM
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pooh.... so i guess this life is already over for me at 25yrs.... will start climbing earlier in my next incarnation - you bet!!!


tahoe_rock_master


Jun 14, 2004, 4:13 AM
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WOW that is impressive. Oh, did anyone else think the bolts he is clipping in the first and second picture look sketch? :shock: :shock:

Matt


climb_plastic


Jun 15, 2004, 6:06 AM
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climbing hard is all about strength to weight ratio. children definitely excel at this because they haven't hit puberty yet and the corresponding increase in muscle mass that accompanies it. i am not saying the ratio can't be maintained, just that is definitely an obstacle to over come.

as more and more kids pick up the sport, we may see a natural hump in the age vs. performance curve like there is in gymnastics.

Yeah that's all true....but he is only 11! that hump in the age vs. performance curve doesn't peak at 11 it peaks around 16 or 17. This kid will definitely be better when he is 13 and I'll bet he'll even be better when he is 17. We don't even know if that hump exists in climbing as you see a lot of older climbers getting stronger and stronger as they age through their 30s.


robmcc


Jun 15, 2004, 2:13 PM
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Yeah that's all true....but he is only 11! that hump in the age vs. performance curve doesn't peak at 11 it peaks around 16 or 17.

Cite, please?

Rob


jumpingrock


Jun 15, 2004, 2:54 PM
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Yeah but can he drive a car?

And has he been laid?


climb_plastic


Jun 15, 2004, 3:37 PM
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Yeah that's all true....but he is only 11! that hump in the age vs. performance curve doesn't peak at 11 it peaks around 16 or 17.

Cite, please?

Rob

I was talking about other sports like gymnastics. I already said that I don't know if that holds true for climbing.


padge


Jun 15, 2004, 4:57 PM
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About ten years ago I ran into this little kid at Cave Rock. He jumped on Shut-up-and-climb (12d) and flashed it with no problem, I think he even skipped a bolt. Later on I saw him at Jailhouse rock, walking almost everything including hard 13's. I thought wow this kid is strong but once he hits puberty he'll get too heavy to do such hard climbs. His name was Chris and he climbs even harder now in his twentys. So it may make you feel better to explain their successes because their young, but may be very wrong.
By the way we kicked his ass on the hike up to Jailhouse (Now I feel better).


robmcc


Jun 15, 2004, 5:11 PM
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So it may make you feel better to explain their successes because their young, but may be very wrong.

It's got nothing to do with feeling better. Almost everyone climbs better than me. Happily, I climb because I like it, not because I need to be better than Chris, this 11 year old, or you.

Rob


matttheripper


Jun 15, 2004, 5:25 PM
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His parents wrote the interview for him. I've been around many 11 yearolds and they don't speak like that.


mastheadmike


Jun 15, 2004, 6:44 PM
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I've been around many 11 yearolds and they don't speak like that.

no, but translators do

affluent european families help a smidge as well


sarcat


Jun 15, 2004, 7:21 PM
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I'm 37. Statistically my life is 1/2 over.


chalker7


Jun 16, 2004, 12:52 AM
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or perhaps it is only 1/2 begun, sarcat


wallwombat


Jun 16, 2004, 1:22 AM
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Don't get offended but that is a f---ing joke. If I couldn't onsite that i'd shoot myself. It looks cool and all but itd be about 5.12 in the States.

Wow, you can tell that from the photo? You really are going to be ''one of the top ten best climbers in the world'', aren't you? Your ability to grade climbs without ever really seeing them is staggering. You did the same with Dai Koyamoda's recent V16 in The Grampians, Australia. That's some skill to have.

Why do you seem to discount hard ascents that are climbed outside of North America? Does that mean that when you say you intend to be ''one of the top ten best climbers in the world'', you really mean ''one of the top ten best'' in North America, due to the fact that climbs everywhere else in the world are chronicly overgraded?

You have an attitude that I have witnessed before in others. They have all been very young or very stupid. Your idea that to have any input in climbing you have to be able climb 5.14 or boulder V11 or whatever is crap. But you go one better; when someone does do something amazing, you immediately downplay their achievements. I guess it makes it easier to become ''one of the top ten best climbers in the world'' that way. Kind of like eliminating the opposition so to speak, even if it's only in your mind.

Anyway, you are well on the way to fulfilling your dreams. I see you have climbed two V10s, one V11 and (woohoo!) a 5.14a two bolt link up on some south eastern, top-roping crag with the awe inspiring name Practice Wall. You must be stoked! Have 8a.nu heard the news? What about R&I and Climbing? Man, you are out there. :roll:


litleclimberchick


Jun 16, 2004, 2:22 AM
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Whoah, now that's inspiration for a 16 year old like me.

not for this 16 year old :? ...at 11 i didn't even know climbing was a sport (i was a very sheltered child).


sarcat


Jun 16, 2004, 1:57 PM
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or perhaps it is only 1/2 begun, sarcat

I guess I'm a 1/2 empty type person and you're a 1/2 full type. Still Sad that at 13 what I was doing vs. what this kid is doing. Regardless if it's a 5.12 or 5.14.

I do have alot to look forward to. I haven't really started trad yet and I hear it's better when you're in your 40s.


madriver


Jun 16, 2004, 2:42 PM
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...I always find it interesting when people have a reason why some kid can crank. Oh ...you know...if I were that young when I started to climb...or wow...if I had that strength/ weight ratio...or wait until she turns 20...or wow if my kid were that tall...

...my thoughts are always....yeah..right...I guess the three days a week training...weekend road trips...and real dedication have NOTHING to do with the fact that these phenom kids today can "just do it"!! Relax and enjoy....if the kid continues to climb hard and train hard...well it boggles the mind!! :shock:


hasbeen


Jun 16, 2004, 4:19 PM
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finally a couple of level-headed posts among the lunacy here. athletic skill can't be chalked up to age. that kid, if he keeps climbing, is going to be one of the best in the world. i've been around athletes my whole life and whenever a kid excels there are always those who utter the same crap, "just wait blah, blah, blah..." they said it about sharma, and lindner, etc, etc. that kid is rad.

badass, i know that your entire point here is to flame but, dude, you've got to go to europe where you'll get your ass handed to you. climbing over there is so much harder, mainly because the standard level of climbing is so much higher. when it comes to climbing, dissing the european scene is the equivelant of a surfer dissing hawaii. sean thompson said, "you're nothing in this sport until you can shred in hawaii." same is true for climbing, you'll never be squat til you can crank in europe. so get another paper route, train like a freak, and buy a ticket 'cause random slander just makes you appear absurd, like a non-paid un-funny version of john sherman.


kcoopman


Jun 20, 2004, 10:23 PM
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Hello,

I have a son sorta like this. He is 5 tears old and has does multipitch climbs in Eldorado Canyon in Colorado. Being young he has an extreme weight to strenght ratio and it boils down to, if he gets 2 fingers on (just one arm) he most likely can get up. The flexibility is incredible also.

http://www.climbingboulder.com/community/album/4293.html

The thing is, 10 years ago there was no real rock gyms so maybe we have a new breed of climbers. In Colorado, our rec centers have climbing walls and lots of kids are on them. During their main growing time, they are climbing (ages 5-10) so they get incredible strong. We have kids in Colorado age 4 doing 5.9 (sport route) and a 6 year old doing 5.11.

I went to a PCA contest at the spot and notice has some of the climbers who started when they where super young (such as 5 or 6) are super strong. I think Daniel Woods leaves finger prints on the holds.

One thing we should all learn from the kids, they climb because it is FUN and that is about it.

Kevin


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Sport Climbing

 


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