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tahoe_rock_master
Jun 14, 2004, 4:13 AM
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WOW that is impressive. Oh, did anyone else think the bolts he is clipping in the first and second picture look sketch? :shock: :shock:
Matt
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climb_plastic
Jun 15, 2004, 6:06 AM
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In reply to: climbing hard is all about strength to weight ratio. children definitely excel at this because they haven't hit puberty yet and the corresponding increase in muscle mass that accompanies it. i am not saying the ratio can't be maintained, just that is definitely an obstacle to over come. as more and more kids pick up the sport, we may see a natural hump in the age vs. performance curve like there is in gymnastics.
Yeah that's all true....but he is only 11! that hump in the age vs. performance curve doesn't peak at 11 it peaks around 16 or 17. This kid will definitely be better when he is 13 and I'll bet he'll even be better when he is 17. We don't even know if that hump exists in climbing as you see a lot of older climbers getting stronger and stronger as they age through their 30s.
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robmcc
Jun 15, 2004, 2:13 PM
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In reply to: Yeah that's all true....but he is only 11! that hump in the age vs. performance curve doesn't peak at 11 it peaks around 16 or 17.
Cite, please?
Rob
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jumpingrock
Jun 15, 2004, 2:54 PM
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In reply to: Yeah but can he drive a car?
And has he been laid?
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climb_plastic
Jun 15, 2004, 3:37 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Yeah that's all true....but he is only 11! that hump in the age vs. performance curve doesn't peak at 11 it peaks around 16 or 17. Cite, please? Rob
I was talking about other sports like gymnastics. I already said that I don't know if that holds true for climbing.
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padge
Jun 15, 2004, 4:57 PM
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About ten years ago I ran into this little kid at Cave Rock. He jumped on Shut-up-and-climb (12d) and flashed it with no problem, I think he even skipped a bolt. Later on I saw him at Jailhouse rock, walking almost everything including hard 13's. I thought wow this kid is strong but once he hits puberty he'll get too heavy to do such hard climbs. His name was Chris and he climbs even harder now in his twentys. So it may make you feel better to explain their successes because their young, but may be very wrong.
By the way we kicked his ass on the hike up to Jailhouse (Now I feel better).
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robmcc
Jun 15, 2004, 5:11 PM
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In reply to: So it may make you feel better to explain their successes because their young, but may be very wrong.
It's got nothing to do with feeling better. Almost everyone climbs better than me. Happily, I climb because I like it, not because I need to be better than Chris, this 11 year old, or you.
Rob
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matttheripper
Jun 15, 2004, 5:25 PM
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His parents wrote the interview for him. I've been around many 11 yearolds and they don't speak like that.
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mastheadmike
Jun 15, 2004, 6:44 PM
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In reply to: I've been around many 11 yearolds and they don't speak like that.
no, but translators do
affluent european families help a smidge as well
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sarcat
Jun 15, 2004, 7:21 PM
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I'm 37. Statistically my life is 1/2 over.
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chalker7
Jun 16, 2004, 12:52 AM
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or perhaps it is only 1/2 begun, sarcat
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wallwombat
Jun 16, 2004, 1:22 AM
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In reply to: Don't get offended but that is a f---ing joke. If I couldn't onsite that i'd shoot myself. It looks cool and all but itd be about 5.12 in the States.
Wow, you can tell that from the photo? You really are going to be ''one of the top ten best climbers in the world'', aren't you? Your ability to grade climbs without ever really seeing them is staggering. You did the same with Dai Koyamoda's recent V16 in The Grampians, Australia. That's some skill to have.
Why do you seem to discount hard ascents that are climbed outside of North America? Does that mean that when you say you intend to be ''one of the top ten best climbers in the world'', you really mean ''one of the top ten best'' in North America, due to the fact that climbs everywhere else in the world are chronicly overgraded?
You have an attitude that I have witnessed before in others. They have all been very young or very stupid. Your idea that to have any input in climbing you have to be able climb 5.14 or boulder V11 or whatever is crap. But you go one better; when someone does do something amazing, you immediately downplay their achievements. I guess it makes it easier to become ''one of the top ten best climbers in the world'' that way. Kind of like eliminating the opposition so to speak, even if it's only in your mind.
Anyway, you are well on the way to fulfilling your dreams. I see you have climbed two V10s, one V11 and (woohoo!) a 5.14a two bolt link up on some south eastern, top-roping crag with the awe inspiring name Practice Wall. You must be stoked! Have 8a.nu heard the news? What about R&I and Climbing? Man, you are out there. :roll:
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litleclimberchick
Jun 16, 2004, 2:22 AM
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In reply to: Whoah, now that's inspiration for a 16 year old like me.
not for this 16 year old :? ...at 11 i didn't even know climbing was a sport (i was a very sheltered child).
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sarcat
Jun 16, 2004, 1:57 PM
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In reply to: or perhaps it is only 1/2 begun, sarcat
I guess I'm a 1/2 empty type person and you're a 1/2 full type. Still Sad that at 13 what I was doing vs. what this kid is doing. Regardless if it's a 5.12 or 5.14.
I do have alot to look forward to. I haven't really started trad yet and I hear it's better when you're in your 40s.
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madriver
Jun 16, 2004, 2:42 PM
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...I always find it interesting when people have a reason why some kid can crank. Oh ...you know...if I were that young when I started to climb...or wow...if I had that strength/ weight ratio...or wait until she turns 20...or wow if my kid were that tall...
...my thoughts are always....yeah..right...I guess the three days a week training...weekend road trips...and real dedication have NOTHING to do with the fact that these phenom kids today can "just do it"!! Relax and enjoy....if the kid continues to climb hard and train hard...well it boggles the mind!! :shock:
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hasbeen
Jun 16, 2004, 4:19 PM
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finally a couple of level-headed posts among the lunacy here. athletic skill can't be chalked up to age. that kid, if he keeps climbing, is going to be one of the best in the world. i've been around athletes my whole life and whenever a kid excels there are always those who utter the same crap, "just wait blah, blah, blah..." they said it about sharma, and lindner, etc, etc. that kid is rad.
badass, i know that your entire point here is to flame but, dude, you've got to go to europe where you'll get your ass handed to you. climbing over there is so much harder, mainly because the standard level of climbing is so much higher. when it comes to climbing, dissing the european scene is the equivelant of a surfer dissing hawaii. sean thompson said, "you're nothing in this sport until you can shred in hawaii." same is true for climbing, you'll never be squat til you can crank in europe. so get another paper route, train like a freak, and buy a ticket 'cause random slander just makes you appear absurd, like a non-paid un-funny version of john sherman.
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kcoopman
Jun 20, 2004, 10:23 PM
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Hello,
I have a son sorta like this. He is 5 tears old and has does multipitch climbs in Eldorado Canyon in Colorado. Being young he has an extreme weight to strenght ratio and it boils down to, if he gets 2 fingers on (just one arm) he most likely can get up. The flexibility is incredible also.
http://www.climbingboulder.com/community/album/4293.html
The thing is, 10 years ago there was no real rock gyms so maybe we have a new breed of climbers. In Colorado, our rec centers have climbing walls and lots of kids are on them. During their main growing time, they are climbing (ages 5-10) so they get incredible strong. We have kids in Colorado age 4 doing 5.9 (sport route) and a 6 year old doing 5.11.
I went to a PCA contest at the spot and notice has some of the climbers who started when they where super young (such as 5 or 6) are super strong. I think Daniel Woods leaves finger prints on the holds.
One thing we should all learn from the kids, they climb because it is FUN and that is about it.
Kevin
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