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sync
Jul 6, 2004, 2:53 PM
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At the risk of accusations of trolling and attacks on my naivete and lack of experience, I am posting photos of another anchor I saw at Devil's Lake this past Sunday - one made by one of the RC.com members, who condones the posting.
The experienced member of our group called me over to take a photo of this anchor after viewing the previous one, saying that I should take photos of good anchors as well. Is this good? I'll let you guys discuss its merits:
The climber had just finished sewing up Brinton's Crack and set this anchor at the top, from which to belay his second.
http://img78.photobucket.com/...anchors/IMG_3359.jpg
You can see the knot in the cordelette just under his left knee.
Closeup of the two cam placements in the foreground:
http://img78.photobucket.com/...anchors/IMG_3360.jpg
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wings
Jul 6, 2004, 2:59 PM
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Assuming that the blocks are solid (looks to be) and the direction of pull of the cams is correct (hard to tell from the angle of the shot), I think it looks good. I'd climb on it.
- Seyil
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rocdaug
Jul 6, 2004, 3:02 PM
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the angle looks a little greater than 30degrees (witch is ideal) but that's all I could see. I'd have no problem using this anchor.
rd
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billcoe_
Jul 6, 2004, 3:12 PM
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Works for me, the only thing I would do differently would be to personally clip into the powerpoint. A sitting belay, with a snug anchor rope (ie, no slack), is unbeatable.
But thats me.
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lambone
Jul 6, 2004, 3:17 PM
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Looks good. Two bomber cams and a nut that looks buried, tied off properly with a chord-o-let. Looks like he is using a Reverso to belay the second, which with his less then ideal belay stance is probably the best possible method.
Why did you pos this picture? What is your assesment?
That yellow camolot looks a bit over cammed, may be hard to get out.
Funny I placed many anchors in those same cracks over 15 years ago when i was first learning to climb. Of course the only gera I had back then was a set of nuts and some hexes. I enjoyed Devils Lake, but it was a madhouse back then, I can't imagine it now!
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sync
Jul 6, 2004, 3:27 PM
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In reply to: Looks good. Two bomber cams and a nut that looks buried, tied off properly with a chord-o-let. Looks like he is using a Reverso to belay the second, which with his less then ideal belay stance is probably the best possible method. Why did you pos this picture? What is your assesment?
My assessment, if I'm allowed to critique it ;), is that it looks good to me. The angle is a bit large, but the cams looks solid and I know the rock isn't moving anywhere. Doug, standing in the photo, said that the one cam looks overcammed as you mention but I think the climber was low on gear so had to place that cam in a less than ideal position.
In reply to: Funny I placed many anchors in those same cracks over 15 years ago when i was first learning to climb. Of course the only gera I had back then was a set of nuts and some hexes. I enjoyed Devils Lake, but it was a madhouse back then, I can't imagine it now!
That day the Lake was virtually empty (it was actually raining on our drive up). My group was first to show up, and these guys were second. It was very nice to have our pick of any climb on the East Rampart.
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alpnclmbr1
Jul 6, 2004, 3:43 PM
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The anchor looks fine as long as he is clipped into the power point with his rope.
Belaying with a grigri, cam side down on a flat ledge is a BIG problem as far as I am concerned.
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euroford
Jul 6, 2004, 3:48 PM
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Sync and i PM'd back and forth a bit while he decieded if he should post my anchor, or if he should bother posting any anchor pics whatsoever. I suggested that he should post mine, considering the string of "bad anchor" threads that we have had lately and the degenrating clusterflubs that result i felt we should switch it up and post something decent for a change.
what he have here:
#10 BD Stopper in left crack
#1.75 DMM 4CU in right crack
#2 BD Camelot in right crack
each piece is clipped with a BD Ovalwire and strung together with a 7mm cordolette.
I am belaying straight off the anchor with a Petzl Gri-Gri hooked in with a HB HMS autolocker and i've tied myself in short with the rope with a figure 8 into a BD enduro screwgate.
Both of the cams are very well barried, i inserted each can into the crack and pulled it forward into constriction. the are well cammed, though were easily removed after being moved backwards into wider portions of the crack. the nut is textbook bomber.
the cordollete angle is definitly okay, though a bit less than ideal. i could have extended one of the pieces and moved my powerpoint, but i didn't want it to be over the edge as i was belaying straight off the anchor. of course, this brings up another problem and my only real objection to my anchor. the rope runs over an edge, not a very sharp one but an edge none the less. not a real worry as loads would be low in the unlikely event of a fall, the rope was a fat 10.5 and new. though if i had a pack with me i would have padded the edge with it.
i was pretty happy with this setup, especially considering that it was built with the pieces remaining on my rack with no consideration for what pieces i would actually need on top. i ended up rapping back down on this anchor to clean a stuck hex, then steve rapped down, we pulled the rope and he lead the route with me following.
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tradklime
Jul 6, 2004, 4:00 PM
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THe only thing I noticed was that it appears the direction of rope travel is not in line with how the anchor was equalized, i.e. in the event of a fall, the nut will take all, or most, of the load. I point this out because it is a common problem with cordelette anchors.
Could just be the angle of the photo though.
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euroford
Jul 6, 2004, 4:03 PM
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it looks that way becouse i'm pulling the rope over with my left hand while holding the grigri cammed.
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nut_tool
Jul 6, 2004, 4:09 PM
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So what is this? A post for you guys to pat yourselves on the back because you know how to set an anchor? Hummm...nice work...good job...looks bomber...you guys rock...
Give me a fuking break.
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lambone
Jul 6, 2004, 4:10 PM
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The biggest problem with this system is that godawfull PINK rope....sheesh burn that thing before somebody sees you with it!
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elvislegs
Jul 6, 2004, 4:11 PM
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atothesthedtothef.
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euroford
Jul 6, 2004, 4:21 PM
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In reply to: So what is this? A post for you guys to pat yourselves on the back because you know how to set an anchor? Hummm...nice work...good job...looks bomber...you guys rock... Give me a fuking break.
considering that you have a total of 6 posts, and that 3 of them have been worthlessly negative, i'd say your heading down the wrong road if you want to be a usefully contributing member of this community.
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corpse
Jul 6, 2004, 4:28 PM
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In reply to: So what is this? A post for you guys to pat yourselves on the back because you know how to set an anchor? Hummm...nice work...good job...looks bomber...you guys rock... Give me a fuking break.
so should only bad anchor pics be posted to rip apart. Did you read either of john longs anchor books? If not, then you can keep your above comment. If you did, then you understand the benefit of looking at good AND bad anchors, as Long demonstrates and explains both in his book. These good and bad anchor threads are good, as we can discuss the good and bad points.. You'd think after about 5 or 6 of these threads, the jackasses with unimportant comments would keep quiet.
To comment on the anchor - it's all good. euro, the reason the one person commented on the grigri being down, is I think certain positions are more prone to allow debris to stay in the device. Which is certainly a rarity, and even more unlikely to have an accident as a result - but in the accident forum, there is the ONE case where a sharp rock piece likely entered the grigri, and cut the rope while lowering someone, the rope ripped in half, and the person is now dead. but its fine to use the grigri anyways.
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elvislegs
Jul 6, 2004, 4:48 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: So what is this? A post for you guys to pat yourselves on the back because you know how to set an anchor? Hummm...nice work...good job...looks bomber...you guys rock... Give me a fuking break. considering that you have a total of 6 posts, and that 3 of them have been worthlessly negative, i'd say your heading down the wrong road if you want to be a usefully contributing member of this community.
i'd say that he or she is on the interstate highway to usefullycontributingmembershipofcommunity.
posting negativity in boring over-done threds is a sevice and i solute you nut-tool.
ok everyone, you can go back to your trad-tech circle jerk now. heh.
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nut_tool
Jul 6, 2004, 4:55 PM
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In reply to: considering that you have a total of 6 posts, and that 3 of them have been worthlessly negative, i'd say your heading down the wrong road if you want to be a usefully contributing member of this community.
I guess I have to establish some sort of posting credibility to point out your hubris?
Posted by: euroford
Posted: Sat Aug 31, 2002 8:16 pm
"okay, as i'm gradually getting into the sport of climbing"
Posted by: corpse
Posted: Sat Jan 25, 2003 8:39 pm
"All of my climbing, except 1 joshua tree trip, has been in the gym"
So with a combined 3 years of climbing between you guys are the experts? I'll say it again, give me a fuking break...
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curt
Jul 6, 2004, 4:57 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: considering that you have a total of 6 posts, and that 3 of them have been worthlessly negative, i'd say your heading down the wrong road if you want to be a usefully contributing member of this community. I guess I have to establish some sort of posting credibility to point out your hubris? Posted by: euroford Posted: Sat Aug 31, 2002 8:16 pm "okay, as i'm gradually getting into the sport of climbing" Posted by: corpse Posted: Sat Jan 25, 2003 8:39 pm "All of my climbing, except 1 joshua tree trip, has been in the gym" So with a combined 3 years of climbing between you you guys are the experts? I'll say it again, give me a fuking break...
STFU n00b. :wink:
Curt
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wings
Jul 6, 2004, 5:03 PM
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In reply to: I guess I have to establish some sort of posting credibility to point out your hubris?
No. What you have to do is say something useful. You've failed (although it was a good try!). Come back when you have something constructive to say.
- Seyil
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ax
Jul 6, 2004, 5:07 PM
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I like seeing the anchors posts! good and bad... I don't comment on them much, but I find it helpfull to read others evaluations.
Keep 'em comin'
PEACE
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corpse
Jul 6, 2004, 5:09 PM
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In reply to: Posted by: corpse Posted: Sat Jan 25, 2003 8:39 pm "All of my climbing, except 1 joshua tree trip, has been in the gym" So with a combined 3 years of climbing between you guys are the experts? I'll say it again, give me a fuking break...
hey tool, err, nut_tool, where do either of us discuss our experience in any "expert" way? I have gone climbing outside since then, not hundreds of times, but a dozen or so (in time it'll hit the hundred mark), so at least find a more recent reference. However, the point of this message isn't to defend that. You are simply being a tool - shut up or contribute - regardless of your skill/experience level.. noobs and masters alike can *contribute* to these threads, without some tool like you trolling around. I never speak of things I don't know, when I do, then come flame me.
BTW - THANK YOU for taking time out of your day to find some old post of mine stating some old fact, it warms me knowing you have thought so much about me :oops:
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billcoe_
Jul 6, 2004, 5:25 PM
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sync , thanks for posting. Personally, I still like seeing crap like that. Sometimes while waiting for a route to clear or just taking a break, I'll stuff some pro in just to look at it. After like 33 years I still find it interesting.
I'm strange that way.
Hell, I even like the pink rope, it adds interest and color to the pic.
So thanks again, if somebody doesn't want to look at it, they don't have too.
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ricks308
Jul 6, 2004, 5:38 PM
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Should he be sitting on the rope?
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myusername
Jul 6, 2004, 5:39 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Belaying with a grigri, cam side down on a flat ledge is a BIG problem as far as I am concerned. as far as i'm concerned, i belay with a grigri like anything else. if a fall took place i would first be stopping that fall with my brake hand.
Good for you as you probably should but...
I'm curious and not in a sarcastic belittling kind of way... have you ever tried that? A grigri uncammed offers little friction, especially if you are taken off guard or if there is a chance for the climber to build a little momentum (a little slack). Friction through other points or edges may help but that shouldn't be a factor in your safety analysis. Try holding a fall with the grigri uncammed (if you have not) before trusting it. Generally you need a glove. I sometimes use a grigri to belay a second but if there is a chance that the cam-action could be compromised I use something else like a munter hitch. Just something to consider.
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