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Toprope Anchor Evaluation
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b_fost


Jul 23, 2004, 3:17 PM
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Toprope Anchor Evaluation
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Hey, I just wanted to show you guys an anchor that my friends and I rigged to toprope on my friend's indoor wall. (40 feet high, slightly overhung.)

The anchor was fine until it came off toward the end of our sesh and hit one of my friends in the face, but until that happened I would've parked my car on it.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=36569

vote and comment here:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...n=Show&PhotoID=36569


corpse


Jul 23, 2004, 3:21 PM
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40 feet?! WOW! That is a TALLLL door!


phaedrus409


Jul 23, 2004, 3:21 PM
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I'd climb on that! Looks bomber!


mackavus


Jul 23, 2004, 3:41 PM
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OH MAN OH MAN, did I make pee pee in my pants when I saw/read this. You totally win the anchor threads.


keinangst


Jul 23, 2004, 3:42 PM
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Oh come on, that anchor is for sh!t.


kevindubrau


Jul 23, 2004, 3:45 PM
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How's your friend's face? Did he have to downclimb the route or could he top it out through the ventilation system after the anchor came off?


iloutdoorcpl


Jul 23, 2004, 3:47 PM
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How do you rack that, mine came with a little stand of its own.....seriously though, dont you think you should have at least doubled that.


michhiker


Jul 23, 2004, 3:47 PM
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That's a pretty solid anchor...but in the spirit of wanting to improve, next time if I were you, I'd back it up with a yellow lab in that off width, right below the plunger...and then I'd use a toy biner to tie it all together with.

:twisted:


markc


Jul 23, 2004, 3:48 PM
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First off, that webbing isn't tied off evenly. You should do a better job so the load is distributed to both loops of webbing. In addition, I'm not really a fan of single-point anchors. While the plunger looks pretty bomber, I'd like to back it up with some webbing threaded through the grate on the ceiling.


Partner pedro_burrito


Jul 23, 2004, 3:49 PM
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In reply to:
I'd climb on that! Looks bomber!

I'd put my ex-wife on that!


phillygoat


Jul 23, 2004, 3:58 PM
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Is the plunger handle oak, elm or hickory?


keinangst


Jul 23, 2004, 4:00 PM
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I've seen that route...it's called Amadou Diallo, 5.10b.

/cue rimshot
/makes hand flying over head motion


dredsovrn


Jul 23, 2004, 4:03 PM
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Overall it looks good. Judicious use of webbing and a biner. If I were you I would adjust your plunger slightly though. It appears to be slightly underplunged, and that might be a non-load bearing wall.


Partner euroford


Jul 23, 2004, 4:11 PM
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OMG is that a static rope!!! :shock:


shakylegs


Jul 23, 2004, 4:13 PM
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Oh, there's nothing better than single, multi-directional anchors.


Partner coylec


Jul 23, 2004, 7:32 PM
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Shouldn't use those old plungers ... got to get yourself the new mack-daddy plungers:

http://images.hammacher.com/...d=90&hei=90&cvt=jpeg

coylec


edge


Jul 23, 2004, 7:37 PM
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Sad news. B_fost just plunged to his death. :cry:




:lol:


blouderk2


Jul 23, 2004, 7:40 PM
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wow that anchor looks bomber. Id trust it with my life


:lol:


boku


Jul 23, 2004, 8:36 PM
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I would have backed it up with a girth hitch around the snake.


mtnbkrxtrordnair


Jul 23, 2004, 8:39 PM
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In reply to:
I've seen that route...it's called Amadou Diallo,

You must mean the Abner Louima anchor. Amadou was shot 40+ times by NYPD for flashing a wallet.


keinangst


Jul 23, 2004, 9:01 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
I've seen that route...it's called Amadou Diallo,

You must mean the Abner Louima anchor. Amadou was shot 40+ times by NYPD for flashing a wallet.

D'oh...Good call. I get my police brutality cases mixed up...


fadeux


Jul 23, 2004, 9:14 PM
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Is that the new Petzl Plunge?


skinnyjim


Jul 23, 2004, 9:33 PM
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SH!TE!


metakinjo


Jul 23, 2004, 9:44 PM
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Bomber. However I would have used an oval biner.


l0wnsl0


Jul 23, 2004, 9:46 PM
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i would have used an old wire gate...


Partner philbox
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Jul 23, 2004, 9:56 PM
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http://www.octanecreative.com/...es/anaheim_photo.jpg

Sadly b_fosts friend had to be carted off to hospital to have the toilet plunger removed from his face. As you can see b_fost had to effect some first aid with duct tape to prevent unnecessary movement of the toilet plunger so that the surgeons would have a chance to remove it surgically.


Partner macherry


Jul 23, 2004, 10:05 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
I'd climb on that! Looks bomber!

I'd put my ex-wife on that!

***********winner*************************


b_fost


Jul 23, 2004, 11:16 PM
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In reply to:
http://www.octanecreative.com/...es/anaheim_photo.jpg

Sadly b_fosts friend had to be carted off to hospital to have the toilet plunger removed from his face. As you can see b_fost had to effect some first aid with duct tape to prevent unnecessary movement of the toilet plunger so that the surgeons would have a chance to remove it surgically.

in that photo I'm modelling the new Prana sports goggles, specially designed for use during yoga.


cthcrockclimber


Jul 26, 2004, 2:23 PM
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shit dude, i'd hang my car from that, good job.


10ftdrp


Jul 26, 2004, 7:29 PM
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what wouldnt you hang on that?


sarcat


Jul 26, 2004, 8:24 PM
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Depends....

Is that a booty plunger or d'ya get it new your self? Never trust a used piece of gear exspecially one with a dubious history and used as your single piece of pro.


mlcrisis


Jul 26, 2004, 8:36 PM
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is this picture shot in the northern hemisphere? if so, I would definity orient that locker with the screwgate facing the doorway, especially with the swirling wind effect from the vent above....


godskid5


Jul 26, 2004, 10:03 PM
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i don't know how so many of you can say this is a good anchor! This obviously won't work!! You need to back this kind of anchor up at least two more times. Or with at minimum one more. I think you could stick a #.75 cam in the vent, then equalize with the world renown american triangle. Then I would use that anchor! :roll:
Great pic. Just keep trying and you will be as good at anchor setting as the rest of us. You're almost there, keep up the good work!!!! :lol:


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