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kansasclimber
Aug 19, 2004, 3:03 AM
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I heard these kind of people exist, just wanting to see if they reply. I got One of my good friends that has disliked bouldering for a while to boulder and loved it. I cant see how people would dislike it but we shall see. IF you reply about the dislikes, why dont you like it. Its fun, good for quick burn, and personally i think it will get you stronger quicker (by doing the right kind of problems though).
Im not trying to promote pissiness, just wondering the reasons, thats all.
Stephen
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saskclimber
Aug 19, 2004, 3:09 AM
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you just opened pandora's chalkbag buddy...
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curt
Aug 19, 2004, 3:15 AM
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In reply to: Are there any boulder haters out there??????
I hate Boulder. Its too damn expensive, otherwise I'd move there. :wink:
Curt
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petsfed
Aug 19, 2004, 3:25 AM
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For a lot of people (sadly myself included) the low time commitment factor in bouldering is just not that alluring. That is, sometimes you want to climb in such a way that when you stop having fun, you just get up and leave. By the same token, these single serving sends can be unsatisfying. This is part of the reason I don't really enjoy single pitch climbing at the moment. Its over way too fast. Think about it. Sometimes you want a quickie, and sometimes you want to be barely able to move after the fact.
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ikefromla
Aug 19, 2004, 3:26 AM
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i'm with curt on this one. too many damn yuppies too :lol:
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kalcario
Aug 19, 2004, 3:46 AM
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Bouldering is like masturbation - nothing wrong with the odd yank every now and then but if that's all you ever do, you kinda start to lose sight of what it's all about. But if you can apply that bouldering power to actual climbs, and not get freaked out by the absence of the ground, foam pad, and spotter, then more power to you - that's how the best in the world do it. If you can pull v7-8, then you can, in theory, climb 5.14.
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enjoimx
Aug 19, 2004, 5:06 AM
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For me its the time factor. If i had unlimited time, i would boulder alot more. But with my busy schedule trying to fit climbing in between school and work, i want to maximize my climbing efficiency. This means i have to have the most fun in the short amount of time i have. I personally have more fun when im climbing a route. Maybe its just because the bouldering here sucks and the routes are pretty decent, that may be a factor. But for some reason, boulding just isnt as awesome as exploring a huge cliff face.
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kachoong
Aug 19, 2004, 5:19 AM
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In reply to: Its over way too fast. Think about it. Sometimes you want a quickie, and sometimes you want to be barely able to move after the fact.
But seriously, Boulder IS an expensive place.....
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reno
Aug 19, 2004, 6:42 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Are there any boulder haters out there?????? I hate Boulder. Its too damn expensive, otherwise I'd move there.
Ah-yup.
I'm with him.
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highminded
Aug 19, 2004, 7:39 AM
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I confess to not having a deep appreciation for the art and science of bouldering. My gripes:
1) no view
2) usually too crowded (I like the peace, quiet and solitude of climbing up a multi-pitch and getting away from it all)
3) too short -- can't get a groove on
4) feels like you don't go anywhere
5) I'm paranoid about breaking my ankle on a dismount
6) no gear -- I like playing with all my shiny, jingly toys
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usmc_2tothetop
Aug 19, 2004, 1:21 PM
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Ok...........I dont really have any goals in bouldering except to have fun. But I have goals in my climbing. Now that I have gotten on routes it's a whole new game. The rush is awesome. The view with the exposure is beautiful and doing multi-pitch trad routes really gives you a great feeling of team work and the fact that you can bring all your gear and take all your gear. It's like "leave no trace" climbing. I do enjoy some bouldering, you don't have to bring a ton of gear and you can really crank yourself. It's great for working on your power and keeping a good head at the crux on a route. But I must say I love working a route especially on multi-pitch. High-ball boulder problems are fun but I need to work on the mental aspect of that some more. I have nothing against bouldering. But for people who boulder my advice is to get on some routes and see what you think.
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soccer_fan
Aug 19, 2004, 1:30 PM
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I personally don't hate bouldering, so much as having a strong dislike for boulderer's who can say boulder V7~V8 but hang-dog 5.9 trade routes at my local crag...
just a thought
edit: and I mean trade routes, classics, etc. not implying trad(itional)
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lcerick
Aug 19, 2004, 1:45 PM
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I'm with highclimber on this one, too.
all 6 reasons are great ones, there are a couple more
that I can't mention here...
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sarcat
Aug 19, 2004, 2:01 PM
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It lacks the thrill of exposure. I'm addicted to it.
And #6 from above. I've invested to much $$ to have it sit at home.
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actionfigure
Aug 19, 2004, 2:14 PM
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pebble pinchers-matress smashers-pebble wrestling
just kidding, bouldering is cool.
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traddad
Aug 19, 2004, 2:18 PM
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Mostly I hate boulderers. Let me define this further. I hate the sk8 punk refugees in their asscrack pants and wool beanies continually spewing in co-opted surf speak and flicking their cigarette butts all over the place. I hate the sixteen year old trustafarians standing on the shoulders of giants to FA V8 without the least inkling in their bong addled brains that Bob Murray climbed it barefoot before they were in diapers. I hate the twinkies and beer work ethic that arises from five move routes.
It’s NOT that I hate bouldering…..It’s just the mentally lazy culture that seems to engulf it that I hate.
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tarzan420
Aug 19, 2004, 2:27 PM
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In reply to: I hate the twinkies and beer work ethic
I can understand hating the twinkies, but what's the problem with a beer work ethic?
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itakealot
Aug 19, 2004, 3:13 PM
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I think it is or was the other way around. I remember that first big year out at Bishop when literally every teen and young 20 y.o. male saw those pics in R&I and Climbing of sharma with a shaved head and grammicci pants with no shirt on sending something sick at the B.M.'s (pre-D.Graham), and they all show up with crew-cuts or shaved heads, grammicci pants, no shirts, and brand new crash pads. It was sorta like that Eninem slim shady video. But I never heard so many people spray sooo much sheeat about "rope" climbers, who never even climbed roped up with gear. When confronted about their idol they would justify by saying that Sharma is obligated to his sponsers and had to "rope climb." Which would be followed up by, "I hate those fLlcking rope climbers." What the fLlck?
The cool thing about being over 30 and climbing when these kids were pissing their pants while playing with their man dolls is that I really don't care.
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mingus
Aug 19, 2004, 3:16 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Are there any boulder haters out there?????? I hate Boulder. Its too damn expensive, otherwise I'd move there. :wink: Curt
But Curt - you're right in the perfect demographic for Boulder aincha?!
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dotc
Aug 19, 2004, 3:17 PM
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- I don't the "feel" of bouldering. It depends on the route of course, but as a generalization bouldering often involves lots of desperate slaps between bad or painful holds. I like the fluid, graceful motion of moderate climbing.
- No exposure, no view.
- The culture: I feel old around boulders; don't get the toques in summer and big pants; not into social climbing, "sessions" etc...
- Makes my fingers hurt (see bit about feeling old).
- I have no power.
- The mental game has always appealed to me more than the physical aspect of climbing. I didn't take up the sport to be gymnast. Give me a 1000' 5.4 alpine solo any day over a 20' 5.12.
These complaints aside, I do boulder indoors in the winter to train, it is still be best way to get strong. It nice to know that if I completely botch a sequence on a 5.9 trad route that I have a reserve of strength to get me through to the next jug.
I'll ask the question: Why is there a segment of the bouldering population that disdains rope climbing? Especially trad or ice?
DOTC
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traddad
Aug 19, 2004, 3:19 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Are there any boulder haters out there?????? I hate Boulder. Its too damn expensive, otherwise I'd move there. :wink: Curt But Curt - you're right in the perfect demographic for Boulder aincha?!
What? A Snottsdale Republican in Boulder?....Perish the thought. He's perfect where he is.
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send513
Aug 19, 2004, 4:14 PM
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I don't hate bouldering, but I am flat out a coward without a rope...
give me a 20 footer on lead over a 10 footer on a boulder any time!!
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scubasnyder
Aug 19, 2004, 4:19 PM
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No bouldering is goooood
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euroford
Aug 19, 2004, 4:21 PM
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if i happened to set up a base camp next to a boulder, i'd climb on it and have a bit of fun. would i actually go out of my way to persue a boulder for the purpose of climbing on it? no. would i climb an excellent boulder when in the presence of crumy trad climb? no. i also don't like the social culture of boulderers. i guess i'm just a trad guy.
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robmcc
Aug 19, 2004, 4:23 PM
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I don't hate boulders, but boulderERs are absolute scum of the earth. :P
Seriously, I don't "hate" much about climbing. I think chipping and gluing is pretty far up on the awful scale, but bouldering? I don't hate it, but it's not for me, either.
Rob
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traddad
Aug 19, 2004, 4:25 PM
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In reply to: No bouldering is goooood
Is that "No, bouldering is gooooood" or "no bouldering is gooooood"?
See:
http://eatsshootsandleaves.com/
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curt
Aug 19, 2004, 4:34 PM
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In reply to: Bouldering is like masturbation - nothing wrong with the odd yank every now and then but if that's all you ever do, you kinda start to lose sight of what it's all about. But if you can apply that bouldering power to actual climbs, and not get freaked out by the absence of the ground, foam pad, and spotter, then more power to you - that's how the best in the world do it. If you can pull v7-8, then you can, in theory, climb 5.14.
Joe,
Go clip some bolts and pretend like you are climbing.
Curt
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studiggity
Aug 19, 2004, 4:47 PM
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I am a boulderer.... but it gets worse... I think I might be a gym rat too. There I said it. But wait it gets much much worse:
-I climb several times a week indoors and only get outside every other weekend or so.
-I climb wearing Prana pants.
-I smoke cigarettes and other things and I have sent several V6's but can't finish a 5.11 without taking a break on the rope.
-I take my shirt off when I climb outside when it is more than about 70 degrees.
-In the winter I wear a beanie.
-I work out just to make my hands stronger on a regular basis.
-I look like I am about 18.
-I travel around the east coast with my buddies and have extended sessions while drinking beer.
-I really like to watch Chris Sharma (as well as other top shelf boulderers) climb really hard stuff.
-I am even a Buddhist!!!
I would not be surprised that if most people saw me they would assume I was one of those dudes that makes the wonderful world of climbing terrible.
However I do think that appearances can be decieving. The reality is that:
-I am 26 years old, married, and have a very demanding career as a computer programmer.
-I got into climbing because I wanted something really physical to do when I wasn't hunched over a computer monitor in my office and I hate working out for the sake of not getting fat.
-The gym I climb in is literally one block from my office so getting to the gym regularly is trivial and I can climb there well after it gets dark.
-I love climbing outside but with my other life obligations I just can't get outside as much as I would like to.
-I smoke because I was a stupid teenager once, picked up the habit, and haven't been able to drop it.
-I wear Prana pants because I have a genuine belief that they just might be the most comfortable pants on the entire planet and they are quite rugged at the same time. Maybe I wouldn't have ever given them a shot if I hadn't seen major climbers wearing them but now that I have tried them I am hooked.
-I can climb V6 and work my hands out a lot because all I want to do right now is climb V10. Its just because I think it would be fun to be able to do that. Plus I am getting older and don't have that many more years where I can get substantially stronger physically so I might as well go for it. Some people like to run marathons but I just want to climb a V10. You can call me a grade chaser and you would be correct but I wouldn't be interested in climbing grades in the first place if I didn't have a profound love for how I feel while I am moving over rock.
- I can't climb 5.11s without resting because right now I don't have any interest in building up endurance. I have to achieve my V10 goal first.
- I take off my shirt when I am outside because I get hot, sweat a lot, and like to get a little tan.
- I wear a beanie when it is cold because it keeps my ears warm.
- I travel around with my other young looking mid-twenties buddies with jobs and families and whatnot because it is really fun to get away from it all and I enjoy hanging out with other people outdoors especially when there is a focus to the hanging out.
- I drink beer because it is perhaps the greatest substance on earth. :)
- I would also love to get into trad climbing but the thought of hanging off the side of a cliff dozens or hundreds of feet up depending on the gear that I placed scares the shit out of me. I don't get scared while I am bouldering and I enjoy that. However, I want to take on this fear very much but I figure there is no need to rush. If I can climb 15-20 feet of V10 then I will have a very nice basis from which to learn trad climbing. I know I will be a total gear freak when the time comes and I already read all of the mountaineering books but I just want to take it slow. I'd like to avoid an unexpected death if I can for my family's sake.
- I am Buddhist for my own reasons and I was a practicing Buddhist long before I knew there were people that spent all their free time trying to make it to the top of rocks that you can generally drive or walk to the top of if you just take a different path.
- Finally I have much respect for anyone that works hard at anything just because they love it. Meaning that just the act of having real passion is what inspires me. I have nothing but respect for all of the climbing disciplines because they all take a lot of hard work and devotion. In the end there is no point to trying to decide which one is best.
I suppose the point of this post is that things may or may not be as they appear. There are plenty of people in this world that make our lives more difficult and some of them do boulder but there are also plenty of boulderers who are productive members of society and have a deep love for climbing in all of its forms. But hate on if you guys want to. I'm certainly not going to try and stop you.
My two cents,
Stuart
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holdplease2
Aug 19, 2004, 5:03 PM
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I think I am afraid of boulderers like homophobes are afraid of homosexuals.
* They kind of do what I do, but do it, um, differently.
* Every now and then I lose a good partner to...bouldering
* They seem to be having a better time doing what they do than I am doing what I do.
* They are an easily identifiable subculture (most of the time) and require special "gear" for their activities which I do not own
* Its getting to the point where I can't go out to do what I do without running into a chattering group of them out doing what they're doing...and I cant help but stop to watch.
* Every so often, someone asks me to go "bouldering" and sometimes its hard to say no.
But for now, I will continue to not boulder and not have a beanie and not carry a mattress.
-Kate.
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traddad
Aug 19, 2004, 5:38 PM
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In reply to: I think I am afraid of boulderers like homophobes are afraid of homosexuals. * They kind of do what I do, but do it, um, differently. -Kate.
Heh....... :lol:
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marz
Aug 19, 2004, 6:02 PM
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Is it just me or has anyone else noticed that bouldering to climbing is sorta like snowboarders to skiers???
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marz
Aug 19, 2004, 6:04 PM
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Is it just me or has anyone else noticed that bouldering to climbing is sorta like snowboarders to skiers???
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actionfigure
Aug 19, 2004, 6:09 PM
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bouldering is for real climbers to train power. boulderers are pebble wrestlers who like to call themselves climbers, but can't fully commit.
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kalcario
Aug 19, 2004, 6:19 PM
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*Is it just me or has anyone else noticed that bouldering to climbing is sorta like snowboarders to skiers???*
Except that the snowboarders and the skiers can operate on the same terrain. A better analogy is skimboarders to surfers - skimboarders look on actually getting wet (pumped) as poor form, operate on 1/2" of water (boulders) instead of actual waves (crags) and therefore don't need to learn how to actually swim in water (climb higher than 25') and get clowned on by the actual surfers (climbers) as well as by the girls on the beach. The skimboarders, however, at least know better than to try to call themselves surfers...
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curt
Aug 19, 2004, 6:25 PM
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In reply to: *Is it just me or has anyone else noticed that bouldering to climbing is sorta like snowboarders to skiers???* Except that the snowboarders and the skiers can operate on the same terrain. A better analogy is skimboarders to surfers - skimboarders look on actually getting wet (pumped) as poor form, operate on 1/2" of water (boulders) instead of actual waves (crags) and therefore don't need to learn how to actually swim in water (climb higher than 25') and get clowned on by the actual surfers (climbers) as well as by the girls on the beach. The skimboarders, however, at least know better than to try to call themselves surfers...
Sport "climbers" could learn something from them.
Curt
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shorty
Aug 19, 2004, 6:27 PM
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In reply to: Is it just me or has anyone else noticed that bouldering to climbing is sorta like snowboarders to skiers??? |
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trx
Aug 19, 2004, 6:31 PM
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I don't hate bouldering... I hate boulderers
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shorty
Aug 19, 2004, 6:38 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: The skimboarders, however, at least know better than to try to call themselves surfers...Sport "climbers" could learn something from them.
grigri -- check.
petzl spirit draws -- check.
OK, so who wants to join me in Boulder Canyon for a rousing game of badminton?
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keinangst
Aug 19, 2004, 6:42 PM
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I love how almost every single "to boulder or not to boulder" thread is distinctly different than the last.
And I appreciate studiggity for eloquently stating his raison d'etre in a manner well above the brows of most full-time boulderers.
You make the subculture look good. Too bad there are 100 troglodytes for every one of you :D
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petsfed
Aug 19, 2004, 6:51 PM
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I'm not saying that I hate bouldering, its just not my cup of tea right now. I go through this series of phases, that are quite cyclic. I start with top roping (because my lead had is gone), then failure on sport climbs waaaaaaay above my level, then I get back into bouldering with a preference for high balls, then I hit the single pitch lead stage, the multipitch easy, then multipitch hard. Then I start all over again. Once I figure out what part of that cycle is my peak, I'll know what kind of climber I should be. That is, boulderer, sport climber, trad climber, gumby (there is toproping there afterall), or perhaps just climber.
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iclimbtoo
Aug 19, 2004, 6:54 PM
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yeah, Boulder has way too many yuppies too. Washington is better...more hippy, less yuppy
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reno
Aug 19, 2004, 7:01 PM
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In reply to: * They kind of do what I do, but do it, um, differently. * Every now and then I lose a good partner to...bouldering * They seem to be having a better time doing what they do than I am doing what I do. * They are an easily identifiable subculture (most of the time) and require special "gear" for their activities which I do not own * Its getting to the point where I can't go out to do what I do without running into a chattering group of them out doing what they're doing...and I cant help but stop to watch. * Every so often, someone asks me to go "bouldering" and sometimes its hard to say no.
Note to self: Coffee, nose, and computer screen do not make a happy triad.
:lol:
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rockhound71
Aug 19, 2004, 7:10 PM
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Only if they fall on me :wink:
No, I don't hate bouldering, but I get injured a lot more when I'm bouldering (blown tendons, strained shoulders, etc). So for the time being, I'm staying away from it.
In my humble opinion, it's great for improving strength and technique quickly. But as they say about opinions...
Casey
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sarcat
Aug 19, 2004, 7:10 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: *Is it just me or has anyone else noticed that bouldering to climbing is sorta like snowboarders to skiers???* Except that the snowboarders and the skiers can operate on the same terrain. A better analogy is skimboarders to surfers - skimboarders look on actually getting wet (pumped) as poor form, operate on 1/2" of water (boulders) instead of actual waves (crags) and therefore don't need to learn how to actually swim in water (climb higher than 25') and get clowned on by the actual surfers (climbers) as well as by the girls on the beach. The skimboarders, however, at least know better than to try to call themselves surfers...Sport "climbers" could learn something from them. Curt
Interesting perspective from a "pebble wrestler". I'd put a smiley but I've de-vowed them.
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angry
Aug 19, 2004, 7:15 PM
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Bouldering in cracks is fun. Standard crimp/slap bouldering is boring.
It's all training anyway.
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kalcario
Aug 19, 2004, 7:16 PM
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*OK, so who wants to join me in Boulder Canyon for a rousing game of badminton?*
The dozen or so people I regularly sport climb with, myself included, have done multiple El Cap routes, thousands of pitches of trad free climbing, as well as a healthy amount of bouldering. Most if not all of the boulderers I know have never been climbers and in all probablity never will be, and when they do show up at the crags, it's to clip bolts - and they're in over their heads on the 5.11 warm-ups.
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crimpandgo
Aug 19, 2004, 7:24 PM
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I love all forms of climbing bouldering included, although I prefer certain kinds of climbing more than others. Each form of climbing has its merits and can make for a better all-round climber by participating in each
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robmcc
Aug 19, 2004, 7:34 PM
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In reply to: *OK, so who wants to join me in Boulder Canyon for a rousing game of badminton?* The dozen or so people I regularly sport climb with, myself included, have done multiple El Cap routes, thousands of pitches of trad free climbing, as well as a healthy amount of bouldering. Most if not all of the boulderers I know have never been climbers and in all probablity never will be, and when they do show up at the crags, it's to clip bolts - and they're in over their heads on the 5.11 warm-ups.
This is solid S-9. Maybe an easy S-10.
Rob
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tripperjm
Aug 19, 2004, 7:42 PM
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While not interested in getting between Curt and Joe in thier ongoing love affair In reply to: when they do show up at the crags, it's to clip bolts - and they're in over their heads on the 5.11 warm-ups. |
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clarki
Aug 19, 2004, 8:45 PM
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Him:
Multiple El Cap routs blah blah blah, thousands of trad pitches blah blah blah, healthy amount of bouldering blah blah blah, 5.11 warm-ups blah blah blah.
Me:
Never been to Yos blah blah blah, hundreds of trad pitches blah blah blah, boulder a lot but always seem to hurt myself blah blah blah, barely redpoint 5.11+ clip-ups blah blah blah.
Only difference here is I am not a self masturbating egomaniac who actually thinks that my climbing accomplishments mean anything in the grand scheme of things. Also, I tend to like most boulderers when I meet them. Anyone who willingly hangs out in the woods engaged in a pointedly usless activity like bouldering can't be that bad!
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sarcat
Aug 19, 2004, 9:06 PM
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Go clarki! Call him on that S9 (or S10).
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cloudbreak
Aug 19, 2004, 9:16 PM
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I like to climb...
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ikellen
Aug 19, 2004, 9:57 PM
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Don't get me wrong - I think bouldering is very fun. I just dont like the people who only boulder and think all other climbing sucks. I enjoy a fun sustained multi-pitch route just as much as a V3 problem, but I dont think that multi-pitch is the only type of climbing people should do.
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jt512
Aug 19, 2004, 11:24 PM
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In reply to: I think I am afraid of boulderers like homophobes are afraid of homosexuals. * They kind of do what I do, but do it, um, differently. * Every now and then I lose a good partner to...bouldering * They seem to be having a better time doing what they do than I am doing what I do. * They are an easily identifiable subculture (most of the time) and require special "gear" for their activities which I do not own * Its getting to the point where I can't go out to do what I do without running into a chattering group of them out doing what they're doing...and I cant help but stop to watch. * Every so often, someone asks me to go "bouldering" and sometimes its hard to say no. But for now, I will continue to not boulder and not have a beanie and not carry a mattress. -Kate.
Best of rc.com nomination.
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kalcario
Aug 20, 2004, 12:12 AM
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*Only difference here is I am not a self masturbating egomaniac*
So you must be a non self masturbating egomaniac...I always wondered why you guys boulder in groups
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coylec
Aug 20, 2004, 12:31 AM
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In reply to: Mostly I hate boulderers. Let me define this further. I hate the sk8 punk refugees in their asscrack pants and wool beanies continually spewing in co-opted surf speak and flicking their cigarette butts all over the place. I hate the sixteen year old trustafarians standing on the shoulders of giants to FA V8 without the least inkling in their bong addled brains that Bob Murray climbed it barefoot before they were in diapers. I hate the twinkies and beer work ethic that arises from five move routes. It’s NOT that I hate bouldering…..It’s just the mentally lazy culture that seems to engulf it that I hate.
I was going to post something like this, but then traddad did it first. Covers it all: the beanies, the cigarette butts, the useless spray, and such. I just couldn't have done such a wonderful job with it.
I take my helmet off to you.
edit: I don't dislike most boulders, just the ones that are pricks. Same goes for trad, sport and the rest as well. I don't discriminate.
coylec
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clarki
Aug 20, 2004, 12:31 AM
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touche!!!!
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mandrake
Aug 20, 2004, 12:58 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: I think I am afraid of boulderers like homophobes are afraid of homosexuals. * They kind of do what I do, but do it, um, differently. * Every now and then I lose a good partner to...bouldering * They seem to be having a better time doing what they do than I am doing what I do. * They are an easily identifiable subculture (most of the time) and require special "gear" for their activities which I do not own * Its getting to the point where I can't go out to do what I do without running into a chattering group of them out doing what they're doing...and I cant help but stop to watch. * Every so often, someone asks me to go "bouldering" and sometimes its hard to say no. But for now, I will continue to not boulder and not have a beanie and not carry a mattress. -Kate. Best of rc.com nomination.
Damn, beat me to it! Like reno, I spit up my coffee when I read Kate's post.
I'm not a boulderer (not that there's anything wrong with that!) but I see no reason to crack on anyone else's game.
A lot of the criticisms of boulderers I see seem to me to be really just criticism of youth culture. That, and it's very trendy just now, which turns some people off for some reason. Look at it this way, when people are bouldering, they're not in your way on yer routes!
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climbthemiz
Aug 20, 2004, 1:30 AM
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Some people on this website must really have no life,
If you like to pull on three move V Blah Blah problems go ahead and slap that caked sloper
If your into crimping and cruxy sequences go ahead and clip that bolt on the project
If your into slaming that sketchy little 1# camalot in, 30 feet runout, be my guest
However dont write under your alias bashing other forms of climbing
Its like runners saying "I hate those 40m dash runners, why dont they run the marathon? Do they not have the balls?"
Andy Nelson
Proud Climber of Trad, Sport, and Bouldering
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holdplease2
Aug 20, 2004, 2:15 AM
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mmm slap that caked sloper
love it, Proud Andy Nelson. :)
-Kate.
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jamaica
Aug 20, 2004, 4:42 AM
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Bouldering is fun, but it really doesn't give me any kind of rush, I consider it training. I really like to push myself when I completly forget about the ground, for me, climbing is all about being high into the air without anyone else around (except my belayer who is pretty far below me) and only focusing on my next move. I don't like to cop out and be able to drop down three feet onto the ground.
Jamaica 8^)
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paganmonkeyboy
Aug 20, 2004, 6:03 AM
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so lately i've been doing a lot of bouldering, since i can never find someone to climb with and am usually pressed for time if i wanna get out and play -
which is weird for me because 1)i'm not that strong on one arm yet since a shoulder rebuild and 2)i really prefer trad and alpine to just about anything else...
but
there is something to be said for topping out highball problems like the ones that fill up little cottonwood canyon, especially without a spotter - its very, very much a mental thing and i do think it has improved my overall composure on the rock considerably. being scared and doing it anyway, and sending it or backing off without falling has really started making me a better climber in the head, which is really a good thing for the trad and the alpine
now having said that -
i'm getting f*king sick of leaving the rocks with pockets full of cigarette butts, used tape, food wrappers, beer cans, etc....wtf people of salt lake ? can't you pick up your gdamn trash ???!! i don't care if you can send those v5s while i'm flailing on a v1 - next person i see huck a piece of trash is getting one of my size 43 resoles shoved right up the buttocks...
i like bouldering. i hate trash in the woods. the 2 seem to be going hand in hand out here these days... :cry:
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james_climber
Aug 20, 2004, 8:24 AM
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i been climbing with some boulderers and i have seen that they are too afraid too lead and also hate runouts they ar e a chiken sh&%t
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james_climber
Aug 20, 2004, 8:26 AM
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they dont have balls
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tradmanclimbs
Aug 20, 2004, 12:27 PM
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Boulderers like to hang in packs and spray smack, socialize, act cool and send short problems. I like to climb long rts with a single partner, move smoothly, feel the wind in my hair, enjoy the solitude of the belay ledge after a 60 meter pitch while i bring my partner up. I like the endurance factor of climbing a 1,000 foot face and then figureing out how to get back down. I like the View. I boulder a bit on days when i cant find a parntner. lately I find that I would rather solo a long easy rt than hang arround on little rocks on those partnerless days. 8^)
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sevrdhed
Aug 20, 2004, 12:27 PM
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In reply to: i been climbing with some boulderers and i have seen that they are too afraid too lead and also hate runouts they ar e a chiken sh&%t
Ok, I wasn't going to degrade myself enough to respond to this post, but I have two things to say. The following mocking sarcasm of this guy is one:
That's weird. I've been bouldering with sport climbers and I've noticed they're too afraid to top out on a highball without ropes. The ninnies. C'mon, that statement I quoted is just plain silly. I boulder. I lead. Generalizations of entire populations of people due to ignorance and possible a few bad encounters with particular members of that population is what caused the holocaust!
The other is that I've noticed the same thing Paganmonkeyboy has. LCC has become pretty gross with regards to idiots not cleaning up their crap. CLEAN UP YOUR CRAP!
Also, I just thought of a third thing. Anyone else notice the massive amounts of hatred towards bouldering here, and the total lack of dislike for bouldering outside? I have yet to hear any trad master hardman walking by me at the gate boulders say ANYTHING to me besides "Hey, hows it going, beautiful day." and other friendly things. So, unless you're going to actually talk smack outside the internet, shut up.
Steve
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keinangst
Aug 20, 2004, 12:48 PM
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So many of the replies are based on this assumption:
"You have the option to go cragging, but choose to boulder instead."
Remember, most places have boulders that are far more accessible (short drive, walk, bike) than the clifflines. Think about the law of averages--you are going to have many more boulders out there than you have pristine faces. And they're more widespread.
That said, if you go to a crag and JUST boulder there, that's kinda sad. :D
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wilson
Aug 20, 2004, 1:38 PM
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Types of Boulderers:
1. V-Guy: V this, v that. I'm sick.
2. Un-v-guy: Grades don't matter. I climb, therefore I am.
3. Flow-er: I just like to flow over the rock and stuff.
4. Highball Dude: If it can't break me it ain't worth climbing.
5. The Computer Programmer/Father/Guitar Player/Comic Book Fan/Boulderer/College Student/Sport Climber/Blog Writer/Juggler/Buick Owner Person: Climbing is a large part of this complex person who is, like most people, perty damn hard to pin down with a single noun.
Rant:
Categories are formed by an arbitrary choice of identity components. The distinction between types of boulderers, much like the distinction between climbers, relies on a subjective selection of traits from what is typically a rather vast array of choices.
People are usually pretty hard to pin down, but I think the constant reminder of these climbing categories actually homogenizes climbers in their respective groups such that:
Trad Guy is all about ethics and must conform to the ethical madness of the brotherhood of tradness.
Boulderers need to be rad, smoke blunts, and be willing to represent.
Sport climbers need to understand trad ethics are dumb and be in love with the gymanstic flow over rock.
The defining characteristics of each grouping are static and thus the people involved are limited in how they produce THEIR climbing world. Instead of feeling it out and coming to grips with some particular relationship which is all theirs, they simply co-opt the dominant ideology of their respective category. When it is time to write the "What Climbing Means to Me" essay, all answers will be reducible to only a few common ideas.
To recap: Categories are dumb.
sick with the flu,
tommy
http://egorealized.blogspot.com
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tradmanclimbs
Aug 20, 2004, 1:58 PM
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many of my climbing partners trad, sport, aid, ice, alpine and boulder. so i don't buy the tradclimbers cant sport thing. I do think that limiting yourself to bouldering in is going to cheat yourself out of a lot of good climbing. If you limit yourself to just bouldering but you carry an attitude that you are really rad then you don't have a clue as what real climbing is.
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chimp-chimp
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Aug 20, 2004, 3:27 PM
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I go through phases with bouldering. I usually boulder only in the gym, and only when I hit a plateau with route climbing. Then I boulder for a month or so, hit a bouldering plateau and return to route climbing. But bouldering doesn't hold my interest as much as, say, redpointing a sport climb. I like to piece together a sequence of a much longer length than I can find on a boulder problem. And I'd definitely rather climb multi-pitch trad in Yosemite for the same reasons.
I'll also boulder if I have limited time at the gym that day, but that's usually a big bummer for me.
I've gone on one bouldering trip, and while it was definitely the coolest bouldering I'd done (besides bouldering in the Valley), I was left feeling like I didn't accomplish much that weekend. And that's my overall complaint with bouldering. I use it to train, but I don't love it like some of you guys.
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gritgirl
Aug 24, 2004, 9:01 PM
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I think I am lucky to get to boulder in an area without the stereotypes that lots of people have talked about. I've only met polite people (both trad and boulderers) who seem to be quite serious about what they are doing and don't have alot of time to spend sitting around talking trash, dropping their litter everywhere and basically pretending to get the job done. I suspect that this is because the weather here in Yorkshire is usually crap and if you want to get anything done you have to do it double time before the weather changes.
To each their own I suppose but isn't it really all about the rock?
By the way, I trail run and I don't hate road runners, I backpack but I don't hate people out walking their dogs, I weight train but I don't hate people who use the CV machines. I just figure I'm the lucky one cause i'm having more fun!
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eyeclimb
Aug 25, 2004, 2:38 PM
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True, bouldering is just short routes but I think it's more challenging; but that's just me. Different people have different preferences. :D
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chrisparedes
Aug 25, 2004, 4:18 PM
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There is no reason why you can't set goals in bouldering as you do in climbing routes. Theres nothing better than nailing a tough problem that you've been pumping out on all day. Plus, boulding allows you to be more creative in terms of how you move. You use your body usually in a totally different way than when you climb. But the cool thing is that you can apply that technique to when you climb a route. Bouldering technique helped my overall climbing technique greatly. I love both, no reason to rag on one or the other.
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mattmax45
Aug 25, 2004, 7:01 PM
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I'm feeling the same way, I love trad, sport and bouldering, each as much as the other for their unique and individual reasons, there's different advertures to all of them , and I love that about them.
Later... :)
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