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climber4life
Aug 31, 2004, 6:36 PM
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Wether it was a top-rope, lead or solo, just say what grade it was, how big it was, what name it had and where it was.
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boz84
Aug 31, 2004, 6:40 PM
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In recent memory, well, theres two.
One that is known outside of my personal sphere of climbers, and one thats unknown to most.
The known climb would be AC Devil Dog (edit: see you wanted the grade, I believe it was a 5.10c), at the grotto. Dit it a few weekends ago, and it was so crazy fun.
My other choice, would be a climb at the camp I work at, its a 10+/11-, that starts on a horribly thin face, with some nice long moves, for about 35-40 feet, and then follows some thin sidepulls arching up and to the left that widen out from thin hands, to cammed hands, all the way to a stacked fist move near the end, and then up and over a small roof to finish. Its such a beautifully perfect line, (IMHO), that I doubt I'll find too many more of that caliber. Long live, "The Banana Boat Incident".
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bandycoot
Aug 31, 2004, 6:46 PM
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Registered: Nov 25, 2002
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My four favorite climbs are all trad:
3rd Pillar of Mt Dana: 5.10a ~5 pitches located just east of Tuolumne Meadows. Great quality granite with a spectacular last pitch! Great views, perfect day.
Fairview Dome Regular Route: 5.9 ~12 pitches This route takes the longest line in all of Tuolumne. It is just plain fun. Big ledges for all belays, easy but sustained climbing, and again great views (as the name implies). My first 5.9 trad lead I think...
Igor Unchained to Airy Interlude: 5.10a ~4 pitches Located in the Needles in the western Sierras. Perfect hand crack in a corner for a whole pitch to a short pitch to a great ledge. Walk left about 30 feet and start up a steeper corner with, again, perfect hands to a crazy intimidating traverse with awesome exposure. Knobs appear where you need them for hands and feet keeping the grade moderate. Finish up a great pitch with a lot of finger jamming.
The Vampire: 5.11a ~5 pitches Takes the most spectacular line at Tahquitz Rock on the West Face Bulge. Sustained 5.9 - 5.11a climbing up perfect hand/finger crack to a challenging mantle. Two thin face cruxes put you on and get you off of a beautiful thin lieback flake. Pull the summit overhang and you're done!
Edit: 3rd Pillar of Mt Dana has about 5 pitches, not 8.
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reno
Aug 31, 2004, 6:48 PM
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Registered: Oct 30, 2001
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Tough call...
Rewritten, 5.7, 4 pitches, in Eldo comes to mind.
So does Bastille Crack, 5.8, also in Eldo.
A few lines in Lumpy Ridge... MCPSAES, Batman and Robin, Fantasy Ridge, etc.
If I have to pick only one, then Rewritten.
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jakedatc
Aug 31, 2004, 6:57 PM
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Registered: Mar 12, 2003
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Obi won rhyobi .9 at Rumney.. just a lot of fun moves
Armed and dangerous and off my medication 10b Rumney.. cool crux to fun roof of jugs
Future shock 11c top roped at whitehorse.. so mad i fell once.. now i just need some slabmeister to lead it so i can try again or get brave :shock:
sorry thats 3 but oh well
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dingus
Aug 31, 2004, 7:02 PM
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In reply to: The known climb would be AC Devil Dog (edit: see you wanted the grade, I believe it was a 5.10c), at the grotto. Dit it a few weekends ago, and it was so crazy fun.
Wanna read something pitiful boz? I have climbed that route easily 50 times, prolly closer to 100! Most of the cracks there too.
That place used to be my gym. Still is on some days.
DMT
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davidji
Aug 31, 2004, 7:07 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: The known climb would be AC Devil Dog (edit: see you wanted the grade, I believe it was a 5.10c), at the grotto. Dit it a few weekends ago, and it was so crazy fun. Wanna read something pitiful boz? I have climbed that route easily 50 times, prolly closer to 100! Most of the cracks there too. That place used to be my gym.
For those who don't know what we're talking about, see my profile pic.
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boz84
Aug 31, 2004, 7:10 PM
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They did david?
Is it a route they set, or is one of the features kind the same, i cant think of one.
Anyways, if I had had the time to do it 50 times, I would have, but there were too many climbs, and only one weekend.
Best part.
Getting to the top, sitting on the ledge, enjoying the view and a smoke.
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trenchdigger
Aug 31, 2004, 7:16 PM
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Registered: Mar 9, 2003
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Bear Creek Spire - North Arete - III 5.8 (10 pitches) in the Eastern Sierra.
~Adam~
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davidji
Aug 31, 2004, 7:21 PM
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In reply to: They did david? Is it a route they set, or is one of the features kind the same, i cant think of one.
When the gym opened, they had that marked as a route. While AC Devil Dog is very popular, the indoor version wasn't. Even less now that it's not marked as a route.
Edit: Removed photos, since one of them disappeared.
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tgreene
Aug 31, 2004, 7:34 PM
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Registered: Oct 22, 2003
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Easy, because I just climbed it on Saturday! :wink:
A bridge to far | 5.11d | Devils Tower
This climb is 100% stemming, with very little left edge to work with, so it becomes a smeared stem, rather than traditional.
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numbnut
Aug 31, 2004, 7:38 PM
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I really think it's impossible to say the best route I'v'e climbed they are all so different. That's the cool thing about climbing and why it never gets boring. There is a lways a new way to challenge youself.
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rcaret
Aug 31, 2004, 8:00 PM
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Registered: Jul 30, 2002
Posts: 227
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The Braille Book ( Yosemite ), A 5 to 6 pitch climb depending on how you want to do it .
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alpnclmbr1
Aug 31, 2004, 8:12 PM
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Registered: Dec 10, 2002
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I would have to be my very first alpine route.
East Face of Mt. Whitney, car to car by myself. (5.4)
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madmax
Aug 31, 2004, 8:13 PM
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Registered: Oct 23, 2003
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Easy: Scenic Cruise of the Black Canyon (grade IV, 5.9++ :wink: ).
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hendicrimpin
Aug 31, 2004, 8:31 PM
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Registered: Jun 27, 2001
Posts: 121
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Mathis Crest(5.7) in Tuolomne for asthetics.........Great White Behemoth(12b) in TenSleep, Wyoming for best moves........Serenity Crack linked with Sons of Yesterday(10d) for just plain perfection.
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davidji
Aug 31, 2004, 8:39 PM
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In reply to: My four favorite climbs are all trad: 3rd Pillar of Mt Dana: 5.10a ~8 pitches located just east of Tuolumne Meadows. Great quality granite with a spectacular last pitch! Great views, perfect day. Fairview Dome Regular Route: 5.9 ~12 pitches This route takes the longest line in all of Tuolumne. It is just plain fun. Big ledges for all belays, easy but sustained climbing, and again great views (as the name implies). My first 5.9 trad lead I think... Igor Unchained to Airy Interlude: 5.10a ~4 pitches Located in the Needles in the western Sierras. Perfect hand crack in a corner for a whole pitch to a short pitch to a great ledge. Walk left about 30 feet and start up a steeper corner with, again, perfect hands to a crazy intimidating traverse with awesome exposure. Knobs appear where you need them for hands and feet keeping the grade moderate. Finish up a great pitch with a lot of finger jamming. The Vampire: 5.11a ~5 pitches Takes the most spectacular line at Tahquitz Rock on the West Face Bulge. Sustained 5.9 - 5.11a climbing up perfect hand/finger crack to a challenging mantle. Two thin face cruxes put you on and get you off of a beautiful thin lieback flake. Pull the summit overhang and you're done!
I think Matthes Crest is my current favorite. Maybe Corrugation Corner too. Easy climbing, but so much fun!
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rrrADAM
Aug 31, 2004, 8:57 PM
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Registered: Dec 19, 1999
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3rd Pillar of Dana Mountain (5.10b)... 7 Pitches, Trad/Alpine, just outside the East Entrance to Yosemite/Tuolumne behind Tioga Lake.
Actually led it in just 5 pitches, after stringing some together.
Beautiful route with a litle of everything, at altitude, with an awe-inspiring view of the entire valley below including Mono Lake and the Seirra Nevada Mountains on the other side I believe.
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davidji
Aug 31, 2004, 9:00 PM
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In reply to: Beautiful route with a litle of everything, at altitude, with an awe-inspiring view of the entire valley below including Mono Lake and the Seirra Nevada Mountains on the other side I believe.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=18051
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clarki
Aug 31, 2004, 9:02 PM
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Registered: Feb 24, 2004
Posts: 192
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Sport: Devil in The White House, 10d at a little chosspile call Pilot Mtn. in NC
Gear: Lost in Space, 10b at Hawksbill, Linville Gorge, NC Likely the best 2 move wonder roof with the best views and most exposure on the planet!!!
Alpine: North Ridge of Mt Stuart. 5.6, Washington Cascades. Maybe 14 pitches. Exposed, beautiful, clean rock, a cool bivuoac, and I got to do it with my 60 year old dad. Don't get much better than that!!!!
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numbnut
Aug 31, 2004, 9:03 PM
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Registered: Aug 31, 2004
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How do you get 5.9++ out of the scenic cruise?
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jcinco
Aug 31, 2004, 9:04 PM
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Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 395
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I can't say that any one climb stands above the rest. So, sorry, I can't do this without listing a top 10 (in no particular order)-
Rostrum NF (better IMO than the Man), Yosemite
Oz->Hobbit Book, Tuolomne
Don Juan Wall, Needles
Exasperator, Squamish
Shune's Buttress, Zion
Black Dagger, Diamond, RMNP
Wunsch's Dihedral, S. Platte
Max Factor, Vedauwoo
Naked Edge, Eldo
Journey Home, Black Canyon
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petsfed
Aug 31, 2004, 9:26 PM
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Registered: Sep 25, 2002
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Too many. Most recently, my route, Suffering From Amnesia, in the Snowies. Slabby and steep cruxes, long pitches, surprisingly good rock. The pro sucked, but you can't have everything I suppose. And its 1200' long. Can't go wrong.
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superdiamonddave
Aug 31, 2004, 9:26 PM
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Registered: Jul 11, 2002
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It is too hard to pick just one, but for summit view alone, I will go with:
Castleton Tower's, Kor-Ingalls Route 5.9 (4 pitches)
Nope, I just can't go with one.
Space Boyz 5.10 c/d Potreo Chico (11 pitches)
Aguja Celo Rey sp? 5.9? Potreo Chico, Mexico (2 pitches)
Devils Tower, WY Assembly Line 5.9 via New Wave 5.10a Sandia's in New Mex. The Needle 5.9 (15 pitches)
Right to Flight aka the Nose 5.9+ Mt. Magazine, AR
Too many to ask for just one IMHO
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j_ung
Aug 31, 2004, 9:28 PM
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
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In reply to: Sport: Devil in The White House, 10d at a little chosspile call Pilot Mtn. in NC Gear: Lost in Space, 10b at Hawksbill, Linville Gorge, NC Likely the best 2 move wonder roof with the best views and most exposure on the planet!!!
Both good routes!
My favorites are both gear routes:
Zoo View, Moore's Wall, NC
The Fat Lady, Encore Finish (sometimes referred to as simply "Encore"), Hawksbill, NC
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