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Big Wall Gear Questions?
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lambone


Sep 30, 2004, 12:37 PM
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to each his own....tape that's falling off should be removed yeah...trust me I like to leave a rpoute cleaner then i found it, but duct tape on a sharp edge is where I make an exception.

what i see as a bigger problem are all the rotten fixed lines hanging from walls all over the valley. For example, the ones currently on the first two pitches of LT.


iamthewallress


Sep 30, 2004, 12:40 PM
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what i see as a bigger problem are all the rotten fixed lines hanging from walls all over the valley. For example, the ones currently on the first two pitches of LT.

I not fan of huge fan of rotten or semi-permenant fixed ropes either...Sometimes they are the lesser of evils. The ones on the LT right now, probably are just evil.


atg200


Sep 30, 2004, 1:05 PM
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thread drift is complete!

take the tape - leaving it is trash, however well intentioned.


lambone


Sep 30, 2004, 4:33 PM
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I wonder if chaz is still reading this and wondering WTF??? :?


cjcalls


Sep 30, 2004, 9:43 PM
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I wonder if chaz is still reading this and wondering WTF??? :?

No he has probley dumped his free biners, half his water, found a new partner, started using 7mm lead ropes and is having another EPIC climb on the wall again. Just hope SAR's doesn't have to be called out.


addiroids


Sep 30, 2004, 10:24 PM
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Hey dude, we were on Wet Denim Daydream next to you guys (I had the Gumby shirt).

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=41009

Although you were held up by the three Norwegian guys (who were pretty cool, bivied with them at the top), in my observation, it was mostly for a few reasons:

You weren't wearing a helmet. I know you were strapped for cash, but buy a damn helmet.

Buy the right gear. A petzl protraxion is much better than a pulley and jug for hauling.

"Dude, I felt a drop!! Did you feel a drop?!?! I definately felt a drop!!" Sure it looked like it was going to rain, but never did until noon on Sunday.

But I think the reason you bailed is because it was your first wall. Dude, like 90% of people bail on their first wall (I was 0/4 until I hooked up with my current partner). So now that that is out of the way, you can enjoy yourself.

It was nice to meet you guys, and at least you made it off safely.

TRADitionally yours,

Cali Dirtbag


lambone


Oct 1, 2004, 9:17 AM
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!!!LOL!!!!!

DUDE that Gumby shirt is classic! wher'd you get it! the suspenders add a nice touch as well!


t-dog
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Oct 1, 2004, 10:10 AM
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Dude, if you bailed on the the WFLT, it might well be because you ran out of free biners. I just did it (solo) around Sept 18 (right above 3 Finish? or Norwegian as Paul said? who ran out of food when they got to the top so I left them what I had, as I was rapping in the dark to get back) and I had 50 free biners with me and was running out on some of the pitches (I linked every other pitch) So moral of the story is as it's been said before, it depends, if there's lots of fixed gear or bolts, then bring onts of biners.

Hey Paul, where you on the team that took a nasty fall on WDD and screamed like some guy getting mauled on the way down? Some guy did that as I was on P9 of WFLT and it was awesome!!!!!!!! (although a little freaky =)


lambone


Oct 1, 2004, 10:30 AM
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no offense fellas,

but "running out of free biners" is the most phony,piss-ant, cop-out, crock-o-sh*t, owe-my-pvssy-hurts, i-can't-hack-it, I-want-my-mommy...attempt at a legitimate excuse for bailing off a Big Wall that I have ever heard, and I have heard them all.

When your run out of binners on a pitch, you back-clean, you girth hitch slings, you stack all your cams on one biner, all your nuts on the other, sak up, shut the fuck up and finish the fucking pitch and build an anchor with your shoelaces.

you bailed becaue you were either too scared, or you didn't want it bad enough...or both. and that is it.

So there :twisted:

Somebody needs to chop those stupid fixed lines so the Tower is not as easy to bail from. being hard to bail from is what makes that route the best "first wall."

Better luck next time....Bone :wink:

EDIT:
Before you start whimpering and whinning...this was just a joke. I'm just giving you a hard time. The key to success on a Big Wall is being thick skinned, so consider these message boards training. :P


Partner holdplease2


Oct 1, 2004, 10:44 AM
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Edited.


addiroids


Oct 1, 2004, 10:04 PM
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Yeah that was me who took the fall. I didn't properly test the gear (green alien) as it was over a buldge, and in a not fun V slot. I didn't rip anything (damn I am glad I stuffed a few aliens into that crack before the slot, I had junk below that for quite a few feet) but with slack (glad I wasn't soloing by that point) it was about 20 feet. Fortunately it was into mid-air. I just like to scream on the way down. I remember the Norwegian guys saying there was a soloist above them. Nice job on the solo dude. And thanks for the Pringles if you left them for those guys. That expando block on like P8 was the hardest reach I have ever had to make. Scaaaaaary!

Take care all and someone chop those fixed lines. I didn't know they were truely fixed, just thought someone had fixed a few pitches, or else we would have chopped them. What a damn hassle.

TRADitionally yours,

Cali Dirtbag


t-dog
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Oct 4, 2004, 11:02 AM
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no offense fellas,

but "running out of free biners" is the most phony,piss-ant, cop-out, crock-o-sh*t, owe-my-pvssy-hurts, i-can't-hack-it, I-want-my-mommy...attempt at a legitimate excuse for bailing off a Big Wall that I have ever heard, and I have heard them all.

When your run out of binners on a pitch, you back-clean, you girth hitch slings, you stack all your cams on one biner, all your nuts on the other, sak up, shut the f--- up and finish the f---ing pitch and build an anchor with your shoelaces.

Hahahahah, awesome post!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I totally agree though with the fact that running out of biners should be an inconvenience at most, not a reasone to bail =)


t-dog
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Oct 4, 2004, 11:05 AM
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Yeah that was me who took the fall. ... And thanks for the Pringles if you left them for those guys.

I have to say Paul, that I now have a much different image of you after knowing it was you who screamed like that when you took the fall :lol:
And no worries for the food, it was that much less that I had to carry down, and at that point, I was ready to ditch everything I could. Damn soloing and having to carry all your gear yourself!!!!!!

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