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rockfax


Oct 4, 2004, 8:38 AM
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A friend of mine took me to a place on public land in North San Diego.

Virtually undeveloped featured rock......a bouldering spot.

I couldn't believe that it wasn't developed.

I concur with some of the peeps above. Box clever, find out where this place is (and others) and start climbing (take some cleaning stuff).

Jeez if I was lucky to live there, I'd be having a field day. So much exploration to do.

Mick R


collegekid


Oct 4, 2004, 1:02 PM
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I never meant for this thread to become a way of bashing the owners of rainbow...if you read my first post, you see I was trying to be friendly and meet some new climbers and hopefully see a new climbing spot.

I no longer have any interest in disturbing Rainbow's exclusivity--if I happen to run across the owners, and they personally invite me to visit, then I'll go.

Rockfax, do you remember any details of this place your friend took you to (how to get there)? I don't mind exploring, but I'd much rather know I was exploring a place that had some quality rock.

Are the owners of Rainbow planning on opening it to the public in the future? I imagine the first ascents have to run out at some point...


bigstiffy


Oct 5, 2004, 6:04 AM
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Collegekid, I wasn't really responding to your posts but to others who took issue with the owners . That being said, I doubt very much that they are planning on opening it up to the hordes of mattress people who would descend on it if they did. One of the really nice aspects of it is that they and there friends can go there and have a solitary, quiet, undisturbed, climbing experience.

Don't put going there someday off your list though. Like I said the owners IMO are not nasty a-holes or holier than thou types. They are long time climbers who were able to find their own Private Idaho in N. County. Everyone should be so lucky.

As far as Lake Hodges goes, I was a small part of the original crew who helped develop there also. But when I lived down there, there was no territory issue and we told lots of people about it and had no issues with who went there. It really didn't get much traffic then, but it sounds like it does now. To bad someones giving out the bad juju. If you go there, remember it's on public property, or at least it was when I lived down there and therefore no one owns it. Just watch out of for some of the big buzztails that we saw there. I was rapping off one day, next to the Eldo Wall and almost landed on a huge 4 or 5 foot one. We sort of encourgaged him to find other sleeping spots, but who knows' he and his pals are probably still hanging out.

But really, with all of last years fires there is probably so much exposed rock now it would be a crime not to take advantage of it and develop the countless boulders that have been exposed. Get a Thomas Bros. guide and go driving out in East County and see what you find. Lots and lots of potential me thinks..

good luck


rockfax


Oct 5, 2004, 11:03 AM
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Collegekid

Just across from Rainbow, a mile or so north up the Highway, on the east side are some huge boulders. Park up and walk to some of the biggest and you'll find some killer glue-up routes. As I remember there's this overhanging wall which looks good and then adjacent to this a huge face/arete climb, at the base of this a glued traverse.

All bolted.

Great for working out I should think.

M


victorjohn


Oct 5, 2004, 11:50 AM
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I can't believe no one has mentioned Culp Valley yet. I go there all the time. Given the fact that there are pretty much endless boulders there, I dont see myself getting bored anytime soon. I have a V5 and a V7 project going there that are among the most fun things I have worked on to date.

There are many amazing, quality problems out there on really great granite. Dont let the SD guidebook fool you, as it hardly coverst eh scope of what is really going on at Culp.

Ironically, I was just offered access to Rainbow about 2 months ago from one of the owners. I simply never went because I am having so much fun at Culp lately... Well, and then I hurt the A2 pulley of my left middle finger and am currently down for the count.


rockitjeff


Oct 5, 2004, 1:31 PM
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victorjohn is right. culp valley is light years better. i used to visit rainbow boulders when my folks lived there; i like it fine (we'd sip tea on the porch actually see boulderers on the south facing probs.......

but culp valley is sooooo cool. more moderate probs (i am a weakling) and i much prefer it's higher altitude climate


collegekid


Oct 6, 2004, 4:30 PM
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I've actually been to culp before...it's pretty cool, but not worth the drive (at least to me). Woodson is higher quality and is closer to La Jolla (where I live).

I guess the true reason I wanted to check out Rainbow was just that-to check it out. Part of my enjoyment in bouldering comes from visiting new areas, and I've heard that rainbow is pretty good. If I just wanted to go to one place all the time just to work individual climbs, I'd probably just go to Black Mountain or Jtree every weekend.


curt


Oct 6, 2004, 5:16 PM
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I went to Rainbow in February of this year. There is so much mis-information in this thread it is hard to know where to start. Rainbow does probably have the best quality granite bouldering in SoCal--however the owners are quite reasonable about granting access. They are certainly not jerks at all. At least not GH, who lives locally.

Curt


scottcody


Oct 6, 2004, 5:35 PM
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In reply to:
They are certainly not jerks at all. At least not GH, who lives locally.
Not sure who "GH" is... BUT, They are certinaly jerks.
No wait A$$HOLES would be a better way to put it.

Rainbow is another pathetic example of the GHEY A$$ cheese ball social sence that prevades san diego climbing.

It was one of the major contributing factors in why several of us quit working at SRG and left San Diego all together.

I would even let certain indiviuals climbing for free on a regular basis (no it was not favortism, it was mid week, the gym was empty, and they generally helped out with route setting and occasionally kicked down sandwhichs from the fish market where they worked). You f'ers know who are.

When I show up at Rainbow, cicra 95-96'. I get tossed all kinds of attitude about where I parked, its private land, need permission bla bla bla bla.

The people I was with had been establishing routes there longer than those jokers had been climbing.

Forget SD Blundering, Head to Idylwild, South Ridge and TramWay are better than Raindough. If you are that hard up for a work out, bike down to peps wall bust a dozen or so laps keep riding down to sunset cliffs bust another lap or on that, ride back and hit santana's on the way home..... hmmmm machaca[sp?]


t-dog
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Oct 6, 2004, 5:53 PM
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Feels good to blow your load? :shock:


reno


Oct 6, 2004, 5:54 PM
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In reply to:
When I show up at Rainbow, cicra 95-96'. I get tossed all kinds of attitude about where I parked, its private land, need permission bla bla bla bla.

If it is private land, then you do need permission.

Otherwise, it's called trespassing.

Today's youth seem to forget one simple fact: you do not have a "right" to climb anywhere.


curt


Oct 6, 2004, 6:05 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
They are certainly not jerks at all. At least not GH, who lives locally.
Not sure who "GH" is... BUT, They are certinaly jerks.
No wait A$$HOLES would be a better way to put it.

Well, George is the guy who owns the place. The fact that you just showed up at Rainbow without even knowing who the owner is, indicates that it is you who is the real asshole. Get a clue.

Curt


bigstiffy


Oct 7, 2004, 10:22 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
In reply to:
They are certainly not jerks at all. At least not GH, who lives locally.
Not sure who "GH" is... BUT, They are certinaly jerks.
No wait A$$HOLES would be a better way to put it.

Well, George is the guy who owns the place. The fact that you just showed up at Rainbow without even knowing who the owner is, indicates that it is you who is the real asshole. Get a clue

Curt

Bump. I know George quite well, and he is a nice guy not to mention as far removed from being an asshole as anyone I know. Kevin, Mike, Dave, and all the rest are very cool and totally worth knowing. It's you Scott how needs to be less of one then those you accuse of being one. Hope I get to meet you one day..Loser

Curt, nice stuff eh. And not a tr needed on almost all the boulders too.


asandh


Oct 7, 2004, 11:11 AM
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:)


omenbringer


Oct 7, 2004, 11:42 AM
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The place has always drawn my eye while driving past it, it looks like a very cool place to climb. Just wondering though, most of the posters are only talking about the bouldering, are there routes up there? I have met some people, here and there, that have permission to climb there from the owners and all of them seemed like very nice people. After talking with a few of them, albeit briefly, they had nothing but good things to say about the owners and the area.
Though I myself have not obtained permission to climb there, I can understand both sides of the arguements. I live fairly close to Rainbow and would love to climb there because of the short approach and the numbers/quality of routes. Having climbed at a lot of San Diego's crags over the past few years I have seen the utter lack of respect a lot of climbers have and can understand why the owners dont want the trash and hassle that would come with granting full access.
Oh well I would like to have access but there is plenty of other rock in San Diego especially after the fires.


scottcody


Oct 7, 2004, 12:14 PM
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What the hell happened to my post? If you are going to delete my post then I would ask that you delete all posts that quote it.

Yep, I am a real jerk for thinking that the kindness I had shown for others would be returned.

Yep, I am real inconsiderate for thinking that going to an area with someone who had been climbing there for years would be ok.

Yep, I am a total and complete a$$hole becuase I couldn't translate GH into "greg" a name from a place that I haven't thought about for years.

I would appericate it if the moderators would return my post.


scottcody


Oct 7, 2004, 12:29 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
When I show up at Rainbow, cicra 95-96'. I get tossed all kinds of attitude about where I parked, its private land, need permission bla bla bla bla.

If it is private land, then you do need permission.

Otherwise, it's called trespassing.

Today's youth seem to forget one simple fact: you do not have a "right" to climb anywhere.

I am far form youth... perhaps not as far as Curt et al. And I agree with you.
However, this "WAS" an established area, complete with an article in Rock and Ice (I think, could have been climbing) and I was going with someone who had been climbing there for years.
I did not return to the area.


bigstiffy


Oct 7, 2004, 2:17 PM
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In reply to:
bigstiffy wrote:
In reply to:
I know George quite well, and he is a nice guy not to mention as far removed from being an asshole as anyone I know. Kevin, Mike, Dave, and all the rest are very cool and totally worth knowing

Well if they're so cool, how do you explain their apparent conduct at Hodges, a place they do not own. I did not bump into them there, but there have been many accounts by others.

I am not sure who is doing it at Lake Hodges to tell you the truth. And if it is them, then they have done a huge about face from when I hung with them when I lived down there. You should probably find out who exactly it is before ascribing blame. But Hodges is a bit of a scufy crag with only one reallly good wall. And since the peeps I mentioned above have probably climbed it out and don't go there that much anymore. Names would help here.

cheers


bigstiffy


Oct 7, 2004, 2:20 PM
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Scot, what you're referring to are the T-Domes or Temecula Domes which are a lead area and not at all related to the private land of the Rainbow bouldering area. Perhaps a bit of misunderstanding is happening here.


briankmulvey


Oct 10, 2004, 9:26 PM
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Dear All,

In the 80s, Rainbow Stones was open to anybody, essentially. There was no gate, no issue. The 90s saw the addition of a gate and “No Trespassing” signs. These were added by owners of the surrounding land, who are not climbers. To insure that the boulders were not bought by non-climbers, thus creating a situation where NOBODY could climb, certain individuals teamed to purchase them, at no small cost (plus yearly taxes).

Rainbow is landlocked. The climbers are allowed admittance to their land by way of a private access road. To approach Rainbow without permission of the climbers or other landowners—all of whom are reasonable individuals—is quite simply trespassing (not only once, but twice). Please respect this, just like the owners of Rainbow and its surrounding area would necessarily need to respect your rights.

Another reality is that a 4-wheel drive vehicle is needed to get there. It’s easier to drive the flat dirt road to McCain Valley. And there are plenty of good problems elsewhere, such as at Culp Valley and Mount Woodson. Exploration will yield many projects on the myriad boulders dotting San Diego County like a plague.

Threads posted here implicate Mike and Dave in a situation at Lake Hodges. Although I have absolutely no idea what happened there, I do know what did NOT happen: Mike and Dave had nothing to do with it, verbally or physically. In fact, they themselves were victims of automobile vandalization.

Don’t believe the hype. If you line up twenty people and tell the first one a story, by the time the last one tells the tale it will bear no resemblance to the facts. That’s what has happened in some of the posts here.

Brian K. Mulvey


roughster


Oct 10, 2004, 10:24 PM
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Brian,

Thats a good response but you do mention some things I find interesting.

#1 if there is an easment, you do not need permission. The owner is legally obliged to allow you to pass, whether its posted No Tresspassing or not. If they prohibit you, they are can be sued in court. Private Land owners often will tell people they can't pass knowing full well that people have the right but are banking that people are too lazy to look into it for themselves to see if there is an easement.

#2 has anyone actually looked at the Parcel Map for the area and confirmed that the boulders themselves are on specifically anyones land? Reason why I ask is talk is cheap, and it is always easier to say something than prove it. Do the climbers own the land that has the access or the actually land the boulders are on. There is a very important distinction there. If they just own the "access" land with the easement, they have no legally binding way of keeping you from crossing if there is an easement.

For those interested in climbing there, you have the free means of finding out who owns the land and any public easements just by going down to your local county courthouse. Ask for the parcel map for that area, and write down the parcel #. From there you should be able to call any local Title company and ask them who owns the land, and they can look it up for you. Some title companies are more friendly than others so you may need to call a few of them before you get someone helpful.

There is nothing wrong with looking into it (access). I think if everyone took some time to find out a little bit more about how to verify ownership/access for places, it would make for a much more knowledgable general climbing community.


bandycoot


Oct 10, 2004, 11:33 PM
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I started working in Temecula (live in Mira Mesa) in the evenings. I drive past Rainbow 5 times a week looking around at the rock. Someday when I get the bouldering itch maybe I'll poke around and see if I can ask the owners and see if I can crank for a day. Collegekid, good luck! If you're successful in your endeavour let me know how it is!


apolobamba


Oct 10, 2004, 11:47 PM
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Roughster,

I think Brian means there is a private easement or maybe an unofficial agreement to access the boulders. I doubt there not a public easement. As such, it is still trespassing for all people not grant this easement.

To find out who owns the property, you can get that at the County Department of Building and Safety or the County Assessor's Department.

However, I am not sure why you are so adamant about getting onto someone’s private property. Let it be and respect the land owner's rights.


roughster


Oct 11, 2004, 12:06 AM
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In reply to:
However, I am not sure why you are so adamant about getting onto someone’s private property. Let it be and respect the land owner's rights.

I'm not adamant to get people onto the land, simply informing people of the ways to verify and use the land as appropriate. You will notice in my 1st post I suggest that everyone try to contact the owners first and certainly that will probably be the easiest and with the least hassle way to get access.

The other pieces are about how to approach the land/legality of it. Also as mentioned, the more informed climbers are as a group, the better. I would be interesting to find out where the property lines are as well as the presence/absence of an easement. More land has public access easements than people realize. Of course the owners don't go around promoting people being informed of it, but generally anywhere there is a natural area that has seen foot traffic/public recreation for several decades, there is a real good chance that an easement is there.


apolobamba


Oct 11, 2004, 8:18 AM
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fair enough

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